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TWO  YEARS  IN  UPPER  INDIA. 


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TWO  YEARS  IN  UPPER  INDIA 


BY 


JOHN  C. 


LO  WRIE 


* 


ONE  OF  THE  SECRETARIES  OF  THE  BOARD  OF  FOREIGN  MISSIONS  OF  THE 
PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH. 


NEW  YORK: 

ROBERT  CARTER  AND  BROTHERS, 

NO.  285  BROADWAY. 


MDCCCL. 


■m  i 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1850, 
in  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


R.  CRAIGHEAD,  PRINTER  AND  STEREOTYPER, 
112  FULTON  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 


P K E F A 0 E 


The  Author  has  had  a two-fold  object  in  view  iu  preparing  this 
volume.  He  has  aimed  at  making  it  a manual  of  general  information, 
for  those  who  have  not  time  or  opportunity  to  consult  larger  works  ; 
and  a book  of  reference,  for  those  who  wish  to  study  the  earlier 
history  of  the  Missions,  of  which  it  was  his  privilege  to  be  a pioneer. 

He  has  endeavored,  therefore,  to  present  a portion  of  the  invaluable 
materials,  which  are  found  in  the  writings  of  Sir  William  Jones, 
Colebrooke,  Malcolm,  Elphinstone,  and  other  authors,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  give  the  results  of  his  own  observation,  during  a journey 
extending  to  Lahor,  the  capital  of  the  late  kingdom  of  the  Sikhs, 
and  a residence  of  some  months  in  the  Himalaya  mountains  ; 
interweaving  these  with  the  thread  of  his  own  narrative. 

The  Author’s  compensation  for  this  work,  a percentage  on  its  sales, 
is  devoted  to  the  support  of  the  Missions  which  are  treated  of  in  these 
pages. 


New  York,  August,  1850. 


The  Map  accompanying  this  book  has  been  engraved  to  show  the 
Missionary  Stations  in  India,  nearly  all  of  which  are  designated. 
They  are  printed  in  Roman  letter,  thus  : Lahor  O . Other  places,  of 
which  but  few  are  inserted,  are  printed  in  Italic,  as  Ajmeer  o. 

Sir  William  Jones’s  system  has  been  commonly  followed  in  writing 
Hindu  names.  It  suits  well  the  native  orthography  ; but  the  English 
reader  should  note  that  it  requires  the  short  a to  be  pronounced  like 
u,  or  like  the  last  a in  America ; and  the  long  i,  like  ee,  or  like  i in 
Machine.  Thus  Panjab  is  pronounced  as  if  written  Punjab  ; Ranjit, 
Runjeet ; Pandit,  Pundit,  &c. 


C 0 N T E N T S . 


Page 

CHAPTER  I. 

Voyage  to  Calcutta,  ........  7 

CHAPTER  II. 

India  and  the  Hindus,  .......  19 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  Hindus — continued,  . . . . . . 30 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Choice  of  a Missionary  Field,  ......  45 

CHAPTER  V. 

Events  at  Calcutta,  ........  55 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Journey  to  Lodiana — Voyage  on  the  Ganges,  ...  69 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Voyage  on  the  Ganges  continued,  .....  90 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Journey  to  Lodiana  continued,  ......  109 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Events  at  Lodiana,  129 


Vll) 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  X pa,,e 

Tour  to  Lahor,  .......  142 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Tour  to  Lahor — Ranjit  Singh,  . . . . . 163 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Ranjit  Singh — The  Panjab  and  the  Sikh.-,  . . . . 181 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Lodiana  to  Simla — The  Protected  Hill  States,  . 199 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Lodiana  to  New  York,  .......  228 

CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Present  Condition  of  the  Missions,  ....  23!) 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

General  Considerations,  .....  . 249 


Appendix. 


261 


TWO  YEARS  IN  UPPER  INDIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 

Parting  with  friends — The  voyage  ; a Sabbath — Madeira  ; beautiful 
sight ; Romanist  religion — Winds  and  weather  ; storm  off  the 
Cape — Sand  Heads  ; Sagor ; Natives — Scenery  on  the  Hoogley — ■ 
Reach  Calcutta.  » 

On  Wednesday,  the  29th  of  May,  1833,  we  left 
Philadelphia  to  join  the  ship  Star,  lying  in  the  Dela- 
ware near  New  Castle,  bound  to  Calcutta.  Our 
company  consisted  of  the  Rev.  William  Reed, 
myself,  and  our  wives.  A few  near  relatives  and 
friends  went  with  us  to  New  Castle,  to  see  us  em- 
bark. The  afternoon  was  dark  and  rainy  ; but  if  we 
had  been  superstitiously  inclined,  we  could  not  long 
have  indulged  forebodings  of  evil,  for  before  sunset 
the  heavy  clouds  of  the  western  sky  parted,  and  the 
sun  shone  out  clearly,  painting  a splendid  rainbow 
in  the  departing  showers — a bright  omen,  we  trusted, 
that  God,  who  is  ever  faithful  to  his  promise,  would 

2 


8 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


graciously  vouchsafe  to  us  his  protection.  Early 
next  morning  we  went  on  board. 

I do  not  propose  to  give  a minute  sketch  of  the 
incidents  of  our  way,  and  I therefore  forbear  attempt- 
ing to  describe  our  last  parting,  as  we  supposed,  and 
as  it  proved  to  some  of  our  number,  with  the  friends 
who  had  accompanied  us.  When  we  looked  on  a 
father,  a brother,  and  other  friends,  going  from  our 
vessel  in  their  little  boat  to  the  shore,  and  saw  their 
faces  not  less  pale  than  our  own  with  deep  emotion, 
we  could  hardly  believe  that  the  hour  of  parting  at 
death  itself  would  be  more  trying.  These  separa- 
tions can  be  fully  understood  only  by  those  who 
have  met  with  them.  In  one  respect  they  are  pecu- 
liarly painful ; they  are  not  relieved  by  the  prospect 
of  soon  meeting  again.  Other  persons  leave  homes 
and  friends  not  less  beloved ; but  they  do  not  ex- 
pect to  spend  all  their  days  in  a foreign  country. 
Commonly  their  absence  extends  but  to  a few  years. 
The  evening  of  life,  at  any  rate,  and  its  noon  also, 
they  hope  to  spend  at  home  amongst  their  early 
friends.  This  hope  is  rarely  enjoyed  by  those  who 
go  abroad  as  missionaries.  Their  duties  cannot  be 
readily  laid  aside,  nor  often  transferred  to  other 
laborers.  The  longer  they  live  among  the  heathen, 
if  their  spirit  and  deportment  have  been  worthy  of 
their  object,  the  greater  will  be  their  influence  over 
them,  and  the  stronger  the  reasons  for  remaining 
amongst  them.  The  considerations  of  health  and 
longer  life,  especially  when  their  field  of  labor  is 
within  the  tropics  ; the  happy  results  of  intercourse 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


9 


with  their  friends  and  the  churches ; and  other 
reasons,  would  probably  render  it  expedient  for  them 
to  return  to  their  native  country  on  a visit,  after  a 
period  of  ten  or  twelve  years  ; but  the  work  to  which 
thej-  have  consecrated  themselves  is  a work  for  life, 
and  one  from  which  they  cannot  withdraw,  so  long 
as  they  can  be  usefully  employed  in  it.  They 
require,  therefore,  that  faith  which  is  “ the  substance 
of  things  hoped  for,  the  evidence  of  things  not  seen.” 
This  will  keep  them  from  being  unduly  “ mindful  of 
that  country  from  whence  they  came  out and  it 
will  cheer  them  with  the  hope  of  “ a better  country, 
that  is,  an  heavenly.” 

Our  voyage  was  not  marked  by  any  occurrence 
of  special  interest.  Vessels  in  the  East  India  trade 
commonly  carry  out  little  freight,  and  having  plenty 
of  room,  and  being  well  found,  they  afford  comfort- 
able accommodations.  The  length  of  the  voyage 
depends  on  the  time  of  the  year,  speed  of  the  ship, 
and  other  common  contingencies ; four  months  may 
be  stated  as  an  average  time  of  making  the  passage. 
In  so  long  a voyage  the  time  often  passes  tediously, 
and  many  persons  give  way  to  indolent  habits  and 
to  impatience,  if  not  to  worse  traits  of  temper ; but 
if  the  weather  permits,  as  during  much  of  the  way 
it  will,  the  passenger  has  much  time  for  reading  and 
writing,  and  the  missionary  will  endeavor  to  improve 
this  long  season  of  leisure  as  a Sabbath,  invaluable 
for  its  rest  from  the  excitement  and  distraction  of 
leaving  his  friends  and  country,  and  not  less  to  be 
prized  as  a time  of  thoughtful  preparation  for  the 


io 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


new  course  of  life,  on  whose  active  duties  he  is  soon 
to  enter.  With  a few  chosen  books  at  hand,  much 
time  for  reflection  and  devotional  duties,  and  fre- 
quent conversations  with  his  companions,  it  will  be 
greatly  his  own  fault  if  the  voyage  do  not  prove  one 
of  the  best  spent  periods  of  his  life.  So  we  trust  it 
was  to  us.  Sea-sickness,  the  most  disagreeable  of 
all  complaints,  was  in  due  time  succeeded  by  excel- 
lent health,  excepting  to  one  of  our  number,  whose 
hope  of  enjoying  good  health  seemed  to  depend  on 
her  living  in  a milder  climate.  We  all  enjoyed 
good  spirits,  and  were  able  to  make  a good  use  of 
our  time. 

Departing  from  the  usual  route,  we  reached  the 
island  of  Madeira  on  the  24th  of  June.  We  made 
the  island  on  Sunday,  and  were  becalmed  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  shore,  the  winds  having  agreed  to 
keep  the  Sabbath,  as  one  of  the  ladies  remarked,  and 
we  were  thus  spared  the  confusion  of  going  into  port 
on  that  holy  day.  Seldom  had  we  seen  a more 
beautiful  sight,  than  when  looking  from  the  decks  of 
our  ship  at  the  side  of  the  green  mountain  island 
opposite  to  us.  The  summits  were  lost  in  the 
clouds,  but  the  lower  parts  of  the  island  were 
covered  with  terraced  vineyards,  and  dotted  over 
with  cottages  that  seemed  the  abodes  of  innocence 
and  contentment.  The  day  happened  to  be  one  of 
the  chief  Romanist  festivals,  and  in  the  evening 
lights  were  kindled  in  a thousand  cottages,  and  the 
churches  were  completely  brilliant  in  the  general 
illumination.  A magic  scene  appeared  to  have  been 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


11 


spread  before  us,  filled  with  the  beauty  of  nature  in 
her  fairest  dress  by  daylight,  and  changed  at  even- 
tide into  the  splendor  of  another  world. 

We  spent  three  weeks  very  pleasantly  at  the 
quinta,  or  country-seat,  of  an  English  merchant,  just 
above  Funchal,  the  chief  town,  while  our  ship  was 
discharging  and  receiving  freight.  During  this  time 
we  were  often  reminded  by  the  ignorance  and  po- 
verty of  the  people,  the  absence  of  enterprise,  the 
crowds  of  beggars,  the  numbers  of  churches  with  no 
sermons  preached  in  them,  the  multitudes  of  priests 
in  their  peculiar  garb,  that  the  dark  pall  of  the 
Roman  religion  was  spread  over  the  island.  If  an 
American  would  know  what  the  legitimate  influence 
of  that  religion  really  is,  let  him  visit  a country 
where  it  prevails  without  a rival ; where  its  charac- 
ter is  neither  elevated  nor  modified  by  the  presence 
of  purer  forms  of  Christianity ; where  Romanism, 
with  its  monks,  and  nuns,  and  many  ringing  bells,  and 
innumerable  outward  solemnities,  has  banished  the 
free  and  pure  religion  of  the  heart  and  its  thousand 
temporal  benefits. 

Leaving  Madeira  on  the  13th  of  July,  we  took 
the  north-east  trade  winds  shortly  afterwards,  and 
soon  got  down  towards  the  equator,  where  the  pa- 
tience of  the  sailors,  and  passengers  too,  was  tried 
with  light  and  variable  winds,  calms,  and  little  pro- 
gress. After  entering  the  south-east  trade  winds  on 
the  other  side  of  the  line,  we  had  again  delightful 
sailing.  These  trade  winds  are  supposed  to  be 
caused  by  the  colder  air  of  the  higher  latitudes, 


12 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


which  rushes  down  to  supply  the  place  of  the  air 
that,  after  becoming  heated  and  expanded,  ascends 
from  the  latitudes  near  the  equator.  Blowing  stea- 
dily from  one  quarter,  always  strong  enough  to  carry 
a ship  from  seven  to  ten  miles  an  hour,  almost  with- 
out a sail  having  to  be  changed,  and  being  of  a 
pleasant  temperature,  it  is  not  strange  that  these 
winds  should  be  so  eagerly  desired  by  sailors.  In 
a few  weeks  we  had  run  over  several  thousand  miles, 
the  dashing  foam  from  the  sides  of  our  ship  being 
like  music  to  our  ears.  Now  was  the  time  for  the 
men  to  overhaul  the  sails  and  rigging  of  the  ship, 
and  to  prepare  for  rougher  weather.  On  Sundays,  our 
public  worship,  always  performed  through  the  kind- 
ness of  our  worthy  Captain,  when  the  weather  per- 
mitted, could  now  be  conducted  with  a composure 
hardly  less  than  if  we  had  been  in  church  at  home. 

Our  Sabbath  services  were  well  attended,  and  a 
Bible  class  lesson  before  the  mast  on  Sunday  after- 
noons seemed  to  interest  the  men.  What  results 
may  have  followed  our  ministrations,  the  great  day 
will  disclose.  We  could  not  but  feel  convinced 
that  religious  services  on  ship-board  are  commonly 
undertaken  at  a great  disadvantage.  The  sailors  are 
divided  into  two  companies,  called  the  larboard 
and  starboard  watches,  and  have  four  hour  turns  of 
duty  at  night,  and  four  and  two  hour  turns  in  the 
day-time,  requiring  therefore  much  of  the  day  to 
make  up  the  loss  of  sleep  at  night,  and  having 
always  plenty  of  work  when  awake,  so  that  they 
have  little  leisure  for  receiving  instruction.  It  must 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


13 


be  added,  that  too  commonly  they  have  but  little 
inclination  to  attend  to  religious  things.  But  when 
the  officers  of  a ship  will  permit  efforts  to  be  made 
for  their  benefit, — and  permission  should  always  be 
respectfully  and  discreetly  asked,  and  prudently  used 
when  granted — then  should  missionaries  be  willing 
gladly  to  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  of 
giving  religious  instruction  to  those  who  so  greatly 
need  it.  Repeated  instances  have  been  known  in 
which  such  endeavors,  faithfully  and  wisely  made, 
have  been  attended  with  the  greatest  encourage- 
ment. 

Our  own  party  had  morning  and  evening  prayers 
in  the  captain’s  cabin,  attended  usually  by  the  offi- 
cers, and  a weekly  service  amongst  ourselves  for  the 
study  of  the  Scriptures.  The  greater  part  of  the 
book  of  Acts  was  thus  brought  under  review,  with 
particular  reference  to  its  missionary  instruction ; 
and  these  times  of  social  religious  duty  we  found  to 
be  peculiarly  pleasant  and  valuable. 

Our  fine  trade  winds  at  length  failed  us,  and  after 
a while  we  got  to  the  latitude  of  the  Cape.  For 
several  weeks  we  were  making  our  “ easting,”  that 
is,  sailing  eastwards,  in  a direct  course,  as  the 
degrees  of  longitude  there  are  short.  We  were 
now  in  the  midst  of  the  southern  winter ; the 
weather  was  cold,  damp,  and  most  uncomfortable ; 
the  wind  often  very  high,  and  the  sea  rough  and 
tempestuous.  We  could  read  but  little,  and  that 
with  no  satisfaction.  Returning  sea-sickness,  occa- 
sionally, made  our  situation  the  more  disagreeable. 


14 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


Several  heavy  gales  came  on,  one  of  which  was  the 
strongest  the  captain  had  seen  for  many  years.  It 
continued  for  three  days,  and  those  were  days  of 
intense  anxiety.  It  was  considered  extremely  un- 
certain whether  we  should  be  able  to  resist  the 
violence  of  the  gale,  and  we  endeavored  to  pre- 
pare our  minds  for  the  worst.  Blessed  be  God,  our 
minds  were  kept  in  peace,  but  it  was  distressing  to 
witness  the  anxiety  that  prevailed  amongst  some  of 
our  ship’s  company.  By  the  good  hand  of  God 
upon  us,  however,  we  were  kept  from  harm  and 
brought  out  of  all  our  distresses,  and  with  thankful 
hearts  we  endeavored  to  consecrate  ourselves  anew 
to  the  service  of  Him,  whose  protection  we  had  so 
manifestly  enjoyed.  The  weather  became  more 
pleasant  soon  after  our  course  was  directed  to  the 
north.  Passing  rapidly  through  the  trade  winds 
again,  we  found  the  eastern  seas,  near  and  under 
the  equator,  as  hard  to  cross  as  the  same  latitudes 
in  the  Atlantic,  on  account  of  light  baffling  winds, 
and  frequent  calms.  The  rest  of  the  voyage  was 
up  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  consuming  nearly  a month, 
as  the  winds  were  now  unfavorable.  On  the  11th  of 
October,  we  descried  the  pilot  vessel,  anchored 
always  off  the  Sand  Heads,  far  out  of  sight  of  land, 
and  in  a few  hours  we  took  a pilot  on  board.  In  a 
short  time  we  succeeded  in  beating  through  the 
dangerous  channels  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hoogley, 
and  before  night  we  cast  anchor  in  the  waters  of 
that  river,  the  most  sacred  outlet  of  the  Ganges. 

We  were  now  near  the  island  of  Sagor  ; which 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


15 


Hamilton  described  in  1828,  as  “a  celebrated  place 
of  pilgrimage  among  the  Hindus,  on  account  of  the 
great  sanctity  arising  from  its  situation  at  the 
junction  of  the  holiest  branch  of  the  Ganges  with 
the  ocean.  Many  sacrifices  are  in  consequence 
here  annually  pei'formed,  of  aged  persons  of  both 
sexes,  which  are  voluntary,  and  of  children,  which 
of  course  are  involuntary,  the  periods  fixed  for  their 
celebration  being  the  full  moon  in  November  and 
January.”  This  horrible  custom  was  soon  after- 
wards suppressed  by  the  British.  The  island  is  but 
partially  cultivated  and  inhabited. 

The  anchor  was  hardly  down  before  two  or  three 
boatloads  of  native  fishermen  climbed  up  over  the 
bulwarks  of  the  Star,  and  we  had  the  offer  of  their 
marketing  and  their  services  to  aid  in  getting  up  the 
river,  with  such  a chattering  of  their  almost  inarti- 
culate words  as  seemed  not  unlike  the  speech  of  a 
troop  of  monkeys.  They  were  of  small,  light,  and 
active  frame,  dark  complexion,  agreeable  and  lively 
expression,  but  with  no  appearance  of  intelligence, 
and  evidently  very  poor.  Their  coming  on  board 
was  a common  thing  to  our  officers  and  other  pas- 
sengers, who  had  made  several  visits  to  Calcutta, 
but  to  us  they  were  objects  of  extreme  interest. 
These  were  the  people  whom  we  had  come  to  make 
acquainted  with  the  true  God  and  eternal  life.  But 
how  hard  to  believe  that  such  poor,  almost  naked, 
miserable  looking  beings  should  ever  become  intelli- 
gent and  refined  Christians  ! Again,  as  often  before 
and  oftener  since,  we  had  to  rely  on  the  revealed 

2* 


16 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA, 


promise  of  God,  and  the  assurance  of  his  power  and 
infinite  grace. 

When  we  were  opposite  Kedgeree,  an  English 
station  about  one  hundred  miles  below  Calcutta, 
where  letters  by  ship  are  received  and  forwarded, 
we  despatched  some  of  our  letters  to  Calcutta, 
with  a request  that  a boat  might  be  sent  down  for 
us,  as  it  was  very  desirable  that  my  wife,  whose 
health  had  become  greatly  impaired,  should  escape 
from  the  noise  of  working  the  ship  by  frequent 
tacking  up  the  narrow  channel  of  the  river.  Vessels 
going  to  Calcutta  during  the  cold  season  are  often  a 
week  in  getting  up  the  river,  and  they  are  as  long 
in  coming  down  during  the  rainy  season,  and  vice 
versti. 

On  the  second  day  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meet- 
ing the  Rev.  G.  Pearce,  a Baptist  missionary,  and  the 
Rev.  M.  Winslow,  one  of  our  countrymen,  to  both 
of  whom  we  soon  became  much  attached.  They 
had  kindly  come  down  in  a small  boat  to  receive  us, 
and  accompany  us  up  the  river.  We  left  the  Star 
in  the  afternoon  with  every  feeling  of  gratitude  to 
our  kind  Captain  and  to  Dr.  Huffnagle,  the  surgeon, 
for  their  constant  and  valuable  attention  to  our 
comfort,  and  of  kind  regard  for  the  other  passengers, 
but  with  no  regret  at  making  our  escape  from  the 
confinement  and  the  now  almost  intolerable  noise  of 
the  vessel.  Our  boatmen  pulled  along  cheerily  with 
the  rapid  tide ; and  when  the  tide  turned,  they 
dropped  their  anchor,  which  was  but  a basket  with 
stones  in  it,  and  wrapping  themselves  each  in  a long 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


17 


sheet  of  coarse  muslin,  they  were  soon  fast  asleep. 
Before  morning  we  were  again  under  weigh,  and 
when  the  day  broke  we  were  but  a few  miles  from 
Garden  Reach,  below  Calcutta. 

Our  boat  people  kept  close  to  the  shore,  and  the 
banks  were  so  low  that  we  could  easily  see  some 
distance  in  the  country  back  from  the  river.  The 
cocoa,  palm,  and  other  trees,  which  to  us  were  as 
strange  as  they  were  beautiful,  were  of  the  greenest 
foliage,  with  fragrant  creeping  plants  climbing 
through  their  branches,  and  many  of  them  were 
laden  with  fruit,  and  shining  with  brilliant  flowers. 
Strange  birds  were  flying  from  tree  to  tree,  and 
from  little  cottages,  planted  thickly  under  their 
overspreading  branches,  the  people  were  coming 
forth  to  begin  their  daily  labors — men  going  to  the 
fields,  or  casting  their  nets,  and  women  coming  to 
the  river,  filling  their  earthen  water  vessels,  placing 
them  on  their  heads,  and  returning  to  their  homes. 
The  whole  was  a beautiful  scene,  novel  in  the 
highest  degree,  almost  like  a picture  of  some  fancy- 
land,  and  yet  full  of  life  and  freshness.  And  when 
the  air  came  laden  and  fragrant  with  the  scent  of 
the  earth  and  its  rich  vegetation,  so  different  from 
the  close  smell  of  a ship  four  months  at  sea,  it  was  in 
the  highest  degree  reviving  and  exhilarating.  My 
poor  wife,  ever  passionately  fond  of  country  scenes, 
but  now  too  enfeebled  to  bear  excitement  with  safety, 
was  quite  overcome  before  we  peached  the  end  of 
our  sail.  Passing  the  stately  European  mansions 
on  Garden  Reach,  and  the  East  India  Company’s 


18 


VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


Botanical  Garden,  and  Bishop’s  College  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  we  were  soon  in  the 
midst  of  increasing  multitudes  of  boats,  and  the  din 
of  many  sounds,  until  presently  we  swept  under  the 
walls  of  Fort  William  and  were  in  full  view  of 
Government  House.  Landing  at  one  of  the  ghats 
or  stairs,  we  were  soon  received  with  the  greatest 
kindness  by  the  Rev.  W.  H.  Pearce  and  his  estima- 
ble wife.  In  a few  days  we  were  joined  by  our  mis- 
sionary companions,  who  came  up  with  the  ship, 
and  we  took  pleasure  in  praising  the  Lord  for  his 
goodness  in  bringing  us  to  our  desired  haven. 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS, 


19 


CHAPTER  II. 

INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


Extent  of  the  country — Soil,  and  productions — Population-Appear- 
ance of  the  people — Houses — Civilization — Caste. 

We  had  been  instructed  by  the  Missionary 
Society*  to  make  inquiries  on  arriving  at  Calcutta, 
as  to  the  most  eligible  sphere  of  missionary  labor. 
The  Upper  Provinces  of  India,  it  was  supposed, 
might  be  such  a sphere,  but  we  were  at  liberty  to 
select  our  field  of  labor  in  any  other  part  of  the  East 
that  should  appear  more  inviting.  We  at  once  pro- 
ceeded to  fulfil  this  part  of  our  commission.  Having 
previously  examined  various  works  treating  of  India, 
our  aim  now  was  to  obtain  information  partly  by 
observing  ourselves  the  state  of  things,  but  chiefly 
from  intercourse  with  intelligent  gentlemen  who 
had  long  resided  in  the  country.  And  we  were 
peculiarly  favored  in  meeting  with  several  Christian 
friends,  who  had  extensive  and  accurate  information 

* The  Western  Foreign  Missionary  Society.  This  Society  was 
afterwards  merged  in  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of  the  Presby- 
terian Church.  For  an  account  of  these  institutions,  see  a volume  by 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Green:  “Presbyterian  Missions,”  published  by  W.  S, 
Martien,  Philadelphia,  1838. 


20 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


at  command,  the  results  of  many  years’  observation, 
and  who  had  also  every  disposition  to  promote  our 
views.  I may  mention  particularly  our  kind  host, 
the  Rev.  W.  H.  Pearce,  who  has  since  entered  into 
his  rest,  a devoted  Baptist  missionary,  long  the  effi- 
cient superintendent  of  the  most  extensive  printing 
establishment  in  India,  and  one  of  the  best  men  I 
have  ever  known ; the  Rev.  Dr.  Marshman,  venera- 
ble for  many  years  of  missionary  life,  as  well  as  for 
most  extensive  knowledge  and  unquestioned  talent ; 
the  Rev.  M.  Winslow,  our  respected  countryman, 
of  the  Ceylon  mission,  then  at  Calcutta  waiting  for 
a passage  home  for  his  health ; the  Rev.  Dr.  Duff, 
the  able  and  eloquent  Scotch  missionary  ; and  a 
gentleman  who  occupied  a distinguished  place  in  the 
Civil  Service.  The  information  we  received  from 
these  two  gentlemen  last  referred  to  was  highly  valu- 
able ; the  former  had  been  making  special  inquiries 
concerning  the  part  of  the  country  which  we  had  more 
particularly  in  view,  and  the  latter  had  himself 
resided  for  a number  of  years  in  the  Upper  Pro- 
vinces, and  being  a man  of  acknowledged  talent  and 
liberal  views,  and  moreover  able  to  appreciate  the 
missionary  movements  of  the  Church  of  Christ,  his 
information  was  extremely  useful  to  us. 

Before  giving  an  account  of  the  considerations 
which  induced  our  final  decision,  it  may  not  be  out 
of  place  to  give  some  general  notices  of  the  country 
and  people,  which  may  aid  the  reader  in  understanding 
the  importance  of  our  mission.  I ought,  however, 
in  fairness  to  mention  that  none  of  the  gentlemen,  to 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


21 


whose  names  I have  taken  the  liberty  of  referring, 
can  be  held  responsible  for  the  following  views,  as  I 
shall  make  use  of  information  received  and  conclu- 
sions formed  at  a later  period  of  my  acquaintance 
with  India,  than  pertains  to  this  stage  of  the  narra- 
tive. It  is,  however,  but  a slight  sketch  that  can 
here  be  given.  Many  able  and  learned  volumes 
have  been  written  on  these  subjects,  which  the 
reader  who  desires  to  see  more  satisfactory  state- 
ments will  of  course  consult. 

India  is  an  extensive  country,  lying  beiween  lat. 
8°  and  35°  N.  and  long.  67°  and  92°  E.  Its 
boundaries  are  the  Bay  of  Bengal  and  Burmah  on 
the  east,  the  Himalaya  mountains  on  the  entire 
north-east,  the  river  Indus  and  the  Arabian  Sea  on 
the  north-west  and  west.  These  inclose  an  area  of 
one  million  three  hundred  thousand  square  miles, 
running  nearly  to  a point  on  the  south,  in  the  Indian 
ocean,  being  a territory  nearly  one  third  larger  than 
that  of  these  United  States.  The  word  India,  as 
often  used,  includes  the  countries  further  east  ; but  I 
shall  employ  it  agreeably  to  the  common  usage  of 
late  years,  as  the  name  of  the  territory  whose 
boundaries  have  just  been  given.  The  Vindya 
mountains  or  hills  extend  from  the  western  side 
almost  to  the  Ganges,  in  the  parallels  of  latitude 
from  23°  to  25°.  South  of  this  range  the  country 
is  called  the  Deckan,  and  sometimes  Peninsular 
India;  the  country  to  the  north  of  these  hills  is 
called  Hindustan,  though  this  title  is  sometimes 


22 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


given  to  the  whole  country;  and  not  improperly, 
for  it  literally  means  the  abode  of  the  Hindus. 

The  greater  part  of  this  country  possesses  a soil 
of  great  fertility,  particularly  the  immense  plains 
watered  by  the  Ganges  and  its  tributaries,  embrac- 
ing, perhaps,  four  hundred  thousand  square  miles. 
These  plains,  for  the  most  part  of  extremely  rich, 
loamy,  and  alluvial  soil,  are  amongst  the  most  fertile 
and  densely  inhabited  regions  of  the  earth.  The 
more  remote  of  the  north-western  provinces,  often 
called  the  Upper  Provinces,  or  Upper  India,  become 
rather  dry  and  sandy,  with  a sparser  population,  and 
towards  the  lower  Indus  there  is  an  extensive  sandy 
desert.  What  is  called  Central  India,  is  said  to  be 
an  elevated,  broken,  and  rather  sterile  and  thinly 
inhabited  country.  Along  the  western  coast  of  the 
southern  part,  or  Peninsular  India,  there  is  a con- 
tinuous range  of  hills,  rising  sometimes  to  the  height 
of  six  thousand  feet,  and  another,  but  lower  range, 
along  the  eastern  side,  about  one  hundred  miles  back 
from  the  sea  ; between  these  mountainous  ranges, 
and  also  between  them  and  the  sea,  the  soil  is  good, 
and  supports  a large  population. 

The  climate  is,  during  most  of  the  year,  extremely 
warm  ; and  for  three  or  four  months,  heavy  rains  fall 
almost  incessantly.  Thus  with  a good  soil,  great 
heat,  and  plenty  of  moisture  for  a long  time  in  each 
year,  the  fertility  of  a large  part  of  the  land  is 
almost  unbounded,  and  vegetation  is  exceedingly  rapid 
in  its  growth.  Cotton,  sugar-cane,  tobacco,  opium, 
indigo,  rice,  and  various  small  grains,  are  the  pro- 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


23 


ductions  of  the  lower,  central,  and  peninsular  pro- 
vinces; these  are  not  all  grown  in  the  same  districts, 
but  all  may  be  met  with.  Further  to  the  north, 
wheat  and  the  hardier  grains  are  common.  Among 
the  fruits  are  the  cocoa-nut,  the  banana,  the  mango, 
the  guava,  &c. 

The  people  are  numerous,  almost  beyond  the  be- 
lief of  one  who  has  been  brought  up  in  a newly  set- 
tled country  ; the  whole  number  is  commonly  stated 
at  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions.  When  it 
is  recollected  that  some  large  districts  are  very  thinly 
inhabited,  it  will  be  perceived  that  a very  dense 
population  is  thrown  into  the  remaining,  though  still 
the  much  larger  provinces.  Thus  in  Bengal,  a pro- 
vince not  larger  than  the  states  of  New  York  and 
Pennsylvania,  the  number  of  inhabitants  is  estimated 
at  thirty  millions. 

The  complexion  of  the  Hindus  varies  from  that  of 
the  coal  black  laborers  under  the  burning  sun  in  the 
fields,  to  the  olive-color  of  the  wealthy  babus,  or  the 
beautiful  brunette  of  the  lady  of  the  Zennana.  Their 
features  are  commonly  very  regular  and  pleasing ; 
their  hair  always  dark.  In  their  bodily  frame  the 
natives  of  the  lower  provinces  are  slight  and  feeble, 
and  they  are  of  a timid,  effeminate  disposition  ; but 
towards  the  north-west  you  find  a hardier,  bolder 
race,  amongst  whom  you  often  meet  with  noble-look- 
ing men  of  a proud,  military  bearing,  wearing  always 
full  beards,  which  add  greatly  to  their  fierce  appear- 
ance. 

They  live  commonly  in  very  poor  houses,  made 


24 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


of  bamboo  wicker-work,  or  of  clay  walls  dried  in 
the  sun,  some  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  and  twelve  or 
fourteen  square,  without  windows  ; fire-places  are 
not  needed.  These  dwellings  are  often  divided  by 
a basket-work  partition,  to  provide  an  inner  abode 
for  the  female  members  of  the  family.  Often  a close 
hedge  or  mud  wall  screens  the  back  yard.  Their 
houses  are  nearly  always  destitute  of  what  we  should 
call  furniture,  having  neither  chairs,  tables,  nor  other 
heavy  articles,  but  merely  a low  rude  bedstead,  a 
mat  or  two  to  sit  on  like  tailors  on  the  clay  lloor,  and 
a few  simple  cooking  utensils.  This  description 
applies  chiefly  to  the  houses  of  the  common  people. 
The  wealthy  and  the  great  live  in  much  larger  and 
more  costly  edifices.  The  Hindus  are  never  found 
living  in  houses  standing  by  themselves,  like  farm- 
houses in  this  country,  but  always  in  villages,  if  not 
in  larger  towns  and  cities. 

The  natives  of  India  are  by  no  means  an  uncivil- 
ized people,  though  they  have  made  little  progress 
in  the  higher  attainments  of  western  civilization. 
They  have,  however,  a complete  division  of  labor, 
with  regular  employment,  established  usages,  and 
settled  opinions  concerning  the  subjects  with  which 
they  are  acquainted.  The  mass  of  the  people  culti- 
vate the  ground,  though  many  are  herdsmen,  boat- 
men, fishermen,  barbers,  &c.  Blacksmiths,  carpen- 
ters, weavers,  brass-workers,  potters,  shoemakers, 
tailors,  jewellers,  and  a few  other  mechanics,  may  be 
found  in  all  the  large  cities.  Multitudes  are  priests, 
and  not  a few  are  beggars,  either  from  necessity  or 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


25 


from  religious  error.  In  a few  branches  of  industry 
they  have  attained  great  excellence,  as  the  Dacca 
fine  muslins  and  the  Cashmere  fabrics  bear  witness; 
but  most  of  their  manufactures  are  of  a coarse 
quality,  and  their  labor  in  the  fields  is  performed 
with  the  rudest  implements.  An  observer  witnesses 
no  signs  of  improvement  in  their  industry  or  skill. 
They  are,  and  have  been  for  centuries,  almost  sta- 
tionary in  their  position.  They  wear  the  same  white 
muslins,  and  have  the  same  fondness  for  showy  pro- 
cessions, that  Alexander  the  Great  witnessed  on  the 
hanks  of  the  Indus,  four  centuries  before  the  time 
of  our  Saviour.  Doubtless  they  then  ploughed  the 
ground  with  a similar  sharp  pointed  stick,  and  rowed 
their  boats  with  oars  projecting  far  out  over  the 
water,  and  had  their  few  horses  shod  by  an  itinerant 
blacksmith,  carrying  his  stock  of  tools  tied  up  in  an 
apron. 

How  are  we  to  account  for  this  wonderfully  per- 
manent character  of  everything  Indian?  It  may 
be  owing  partly  to  the  denseness  of  the  population  ; 
for  in  countries  where  the  inhabitants  are  extremely 
numerous,  and  the  means  of  subsistence  scarcely 
equal  to  their  support,  changes  are  made  with  great 
difficulty.  Other  causes  may  have  their  influence. 
I cannot  doubt  that  much  should  be  ascribed  to  the 
system  of  Caste,  which  is  universally  prevalent. 
This  peculiar  sj'stem  was  and  continues  to  be  pri- 
marily  a religious  institution,  but  it  has  become  inter- 
woven with  the  social  and  civil  institutions  of  the 


26 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


country,  and  indeed  with  the  entire  life  of  the  Hin- 
dus. It  effectually  stereotypes  the  state  of  things 
with  which  it  has  become  connected.  Any  general 
change  would  be  fatal  to  its  power. 

Originally  there  were  but  four  castes.  The  Brah- 
man, formed  from  the  mouth  of  Brahma,  one  of  the 
Hindu  deities,  .to  expound  his  laws,  stands  at  the 
highest  point  of  human  elevation ; the  gods  them- 
selves are  hardly  his  superiors ; all  rulers  who  are 
not  of  his  own  order,  are  far  below  his  rank  ; and  for 
the  most  atrocious  crimes  his  life,  under  the  native 
law,  cannot  be  taken  from  him.  Then  follows  the 
Kshatriya,  formed  from  the  arms  of  Brahma,  to  pro- 
tect the  Brahmans  in  their  spiritual  duties.  The 
noble  looking  Raj-puts  of  the  western  provinces  are 
generally  Kshatriyas,  and  are  in  great  numbers  found 
in  the  native  regiments  of  the  East  India  Company, 
where  they  make  capital  soldiers.  Below  them  are 
the  Vaissyas,  created  from  the  belly  of  their  deity, 
and  much  inferior  to  the  two  higher  classes.  They 
are  the  ryots  or  farmers,  a simple  minded,  regular, 
peaceful  body  of  people,  minding  chiefly  their  own 
business,  sharing  more  largely  in  the  quiet  blessings 
of  life,  and  less  in  its  turmoils,  than  any  other  class 
of  people.  Still  lower  are  the  Sudras,  formed  to  be 
servants  to  the  Brahmans  from  the  feet  of  their  god. 
Thus  does  this  system  exalt  the  Brahman  tribe,  and 
degrade  all  the  other  classes  of  the  people.  It  was 
probably  introduced  to  promote  and  perpetuate  the 
power  of  the  priestly  class,  as  the  various  monastic 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


21 


institutions  are  made  subsidiary  to  the  power  and 
elevation  of  the  Roman  ecclesiastics  above  the  com- 
mon people. 

It  would  seem  that  the  original  features  of  this 
institution  have,  in  the  progress  of  many  centuries, 
become  greatly  changed . It  would  now  be  a difficult 
task  to  determine  a Hindu’s  employment,  or  even 
his  relative  standing  among  his  countrymen,  by  his 
relation  to  these  general  divisions  of  the  system. 
Numerous  sub-divisions  of  caste  have  occurred,  and 
many  mixed  castes  exist,  though  new  sects  are  now 
seldom  or  never  formed.  Perhaps  few  subjects  are 
more  embarrassing  than  the  formation  and  rules  of 
these  mixed  classes  ; I shall  not  attempt  to  describe 
them.  It  will  be  sufficient  to  note  that  while  the 
original  classification  still  exists  as  the  basis  of  all 
the  existing  varieties,  and  in  a great  measure  deter* 
mines  their  rank,  still  these  smaller  divisions  have 
landmarks  of  their  own,  and  their  usages  are  tena- 
ciously adhered  to  by  their  respective  members.  At 
the  present  day  every  occupation  is  allotted  to  a 
distinct  sect.  A person  of  one  caste  never  eats  with 
one  of  a different  caste, nor  are  marriage  connex- 
ions formed  between  them.  The  system  is  heredi- 
tary, and  so  is  commonly  the  occupation  ; the  son  of 
a farmer  being  commonly  a farmer,  the  son  of  a 
shop-keeper  a shop-keeper. 

I have  already  mentioned  the  strong  grasp  of  this 
system  on  its  subjects  ; no  departure  from  its  usages 
will  be  tolerated.  There  can  be  no  change  but  by 
falling,  no  rising  to  a higher  class,  nor  transition  from 


28 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


one  to  another  ; and  the  transgression  of  the  smallest 
ceremonial  would  precipitate  even  a Brahman  to 
the  bottom  of  society.  Provision  is  made,  however, 
for  restoi'ing  those  who  have  fallen  to  their  former 
standing.  Liberal  presents  and  bountiful  feasts  to 
the  Brahmans  have  great  efficacy  in  expiating  the 
offence  incurred  by  a departure  from  the  usages  of 
this  system,  if  the  penitent  transgressor  will  but  walk 
more  strictly  for  the  future.  It  would  be  a depart- 
ure from  the  usages  of  caste  to  adopt  any  improve- 
ment in  any  kind  of  employment;  and  the  violation 
of  these  usages  would  be  instantly  visited  with  the 
severest  punishment — the  loss  of  property,  of  reputa- 
tion, of  employment,  and  even  the  hope  of  obtaining 
from  the  nearest  relation  the  cold  charity  bestowed 
on  common  beggars  by  the  hand  of  strangers. 

Here  is  one  great  difficulty  preventing  the  conver- 
sion of  this  people  to  Christianity.  To  receive  the 
Sacrament  of  the  Lord’s  Supper,  in  company  with 
other  communicants,  would  be  a violation  of  caste, 
unless  the  officiating  minister  and  all  the  communi- 
cants were  of  the  same  caste;  and  the  same  diffi- 
culty is  apparent  as  to  other  Christian  duties.  Nor 
is  it  less  a hinderance  to  all  improvement  in  the  tem- 
poral affairs  of  the  people.  It  is  a heavy  weight 
crushing  down  the  spirit  of  enterprise,  even  though 
enterprise  in  that  land  is  goaded  on  by  necessity,  and 
quickened  by  the  keenest  appetite  of  covetousness. 
It  raises  a wall  around  the  Hindu,  which  he  never 
dreams  of  climbing  over  or  throwing  down.  He 
concludes  that  such  is  his  fate.  “Hamara  dastur 


INDIA  AND  THE  HINDUS. 


29 


hai,”  “ it  is  our  custom,”  is  his  resigned,  passive  reply 
to  every  proposal  of  a change.  Surely  this  dreadful 
system  shall  not  always  bind  down  the  minds  of  the 
people  of  India.  Its  very  weight  and  bondage  will 
conduce  the  sooner  to  its  being  thrown  off,  when 
the  people  begin  to  see  its  many  direful  evils.  And 
other  considerations,  which  cannot  here  be  intro- 
duced, serve  to  show  that  the  day  is  drawing  nigh 
when  this  master-piece  of  the  great  spiritual  adver- 
sary’s invention  to  enslave  the  minds  of  men,  shall 
be  broken  into  a thousand  fragments,  and  it  shall  be 
known  on  the  pages  of  history  as  one  of  the  almost 
incredible  things  of  former  ages. 


30 


THE  HINDUS* 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  HINDUS— CONTINUED. 

Poverty  of  the  People  ; how  accounted  for — Literature — Religion. 

From  the  account  already  given  of  their  houses 
and  style  of  living,  it  will  be  easily  inferred  that  the 
Hindus  are  generally  a very  poor  people.  There 
are  a few  persons  of  large  wealth,  chiefly  merchants, 
bankers,  and  farmers  of  the  government  revenue 
from  landed  property ; but  most  of  the  people  are 
extremely  poor.  They  live  on  two  scanty  vegetable 
meals  a day,  clothe  themselves  with  the  coarsest  cot- 
ton fabrics,  and  lodge  in  hovels  such  as  have  been 
described.  In  the  part  of  the  country  through  which 
I travelled,  which  contains  two  thirds  of  the  popu- 
lation of  India,  the  common  rate  of  wages  for  labor- 
ing men  was  from  two  and  a half  to  four  rupees  a 
month,  or  from  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  to 
two  dollars.  This  was  their  entire  compensation, 
as  they  received  neither  clothes  nor  board  in  addi- 
tion ; and  moreover  they  had  no  Sabbaths,  those 
blessed  days  of  rest  to  the  poor  man. 

This  poverty  is  not  owing  to  indolence,  for  they 
are  an  industrious,  though  not  an  energetic  people ; 
nor  is  it  owing  to  want  of  thrift,  for  no  people  know 


THE  HINDUS. 


31 


better  how  to  make  a few  coppers  buy  a good  sup- 
ply of  food.  Nor  is  it  owing,  as  it  appears  to  me,  to 
the  oppressive  government  of  their  present  rulers. 
It  must  be  admitted,  howevei’,  that  the  Hindus  are 
losers  under  their  present  government  in  one  import- 
ant matter,  though  it  is  difficult  to  form  an  accurate 
opinion  of  their  disadvantage.  The  revenues  of  the 
East  India  Company  and  the  income  of  their  servants, 
are  not  all  spent  in  India ; nor  does  Commerce  re- 
store to  the  Hindus  what  they  lose  by  this  constant 
drain  of  their  pecuniary  means.  Their  former  rulers 
lived  and  died  amongst  them;  and  though  their  exac- 
tions might  have  been  ruinous  to  individuals,  yet 
they  did  not  diminish  the  amount  of  money  in  circu- 
lation among  the  people  at  large  ; what  one  man  was 
deprived  of,  another  enjoyed — it  may  have  been  most 
iniquitously ; yet  the  money  was  still  kept  in  India. 
The  British  succeeded  the  Mohammedans  as  the 
rulers  of  India,  and  they  have  greatly  improved  the 
condition  of  the  common  people ; but  they  may  not 
have  sufficiently  changed  the  general  system  of  their 
predecessors,  so  as  to  allow  to  the  cultivators  of  the 
soil  a larger  subsistence  from  their  labors.  The 
amount  of  taxation,  of  every  kind,  under  the  East 
India  Company,  has  been  stated  at  considerably  less 
than  one  dollar  on  the  average  to  each  Hindu — a sum 
which  does  not  appear  excessive,  and  which,  poor  as 
the  mass  of  the  people  are,  probably  would  not  be 
burdensome  if  it  were  returned  through  other  chan- 
nels, as  is  the  case  in  nearly  all  other  countries,  to 
the  people  at  large.  About  £3,500,000,  or  nearly 

3 


32 


THE  HINDUS. 


seventeen  millions  of  dollars,  it  is  stated,  are  annually- 
remitted  to  England,  being  rather  more  than  one 
sixth  of  the  whole  amount  of  taxes  paid  to  the  British 
by  the  Hindus.  It  may  also  be  questioned  whether 
the  manner  of  administering  the  government  of  India 
is  not  too  purely  foreign  and  English ; and  some 
might  doubt  whether  it  is  sufficiently  responsible, 
not  to  the  Hindus,  who  are  certainly  incapable  at  pre- 
sent of  governing  themselves,  on  any  enlightened  and 
enlarged  views  of  polity,  but  to  the  British  people  ; 
for  India  must  now  be  regarded  as  a dependency  of 
the  British  Empire. 

The  British  government  of  India  is  attended  with 
its  disadvantages,  no  doubt ; but  it  secures  to  every 
man  the  possession  of  his  property,  the  protection 
from  illegal  violence  of  his  person  and  his  family, 
and  the  redress  of  his  grievances,  so  far  as  that  can 
be  effected  amongst  so  corrupt  a people.  In  one 
word,  it  is  a government  of  Law,  conferring  blessings 
which  were  unknown  under  Hindu  and  Mohamme- 
dan rule.  Then  the  wealthy  studiously  concealed 
their  wealth,  and  clad  themselves  in  the  dress  of  the 
poor.  Then  no  man’s  wife  or  daughter  was  secure 
from  insult,  and  it  could  hardly  be  said  that  any 
man’s  life  was  safe.  Lawless  despotism  reigned  over 
the  land,  which  was  the  more  galling  because  in  the 
hands  of  numerous  and  constantly  changing  rajahs 
and  nabobs.  Perhaps  one  of  the  most  satisfactory 
pooofs  of  the  good  influence  of  British  rule  in  India 
is  found  in  the  fact  often  witnessed,  that  whenever  a 
district  or  town,  that  previously  belonged  to  a native 


THE  HINDUS. 


33 


king  or  chief,  comes  under  the  authority  of  the  British, 
immediately  the  natives  remove  into  it,  and  the  num- 
ber of  its  inhabitants  largely  increases.  Such  was 
the  case  at  Lodiana,  where  I was  settled,  and  at 
other  places  that  came  under  my  own  observation. 
The  population  of  Lodiana  in  1834  was  some  twenty 
thousand  souls,  who  were  subject  to  an  old  Sikh 
chief.  He  died  in  that  year,  leaving  no  heirs,  and 
his  possessions  fell  to  the  British  as  the  paramount 
power.  Immediately  the  number  of  the  inhabitants 
began  to  increase,  until  they  reached  eighty  thousand 
in  a few  years. 

The  great  body  of  the  Hindus  were  always,  under 
every  variety  of  government,  a very  poor  people. 
Their  present  poverty,  therefore,  is  no  new  thing. 
Nor  are  famines,  and  the  lamentable  loss  of  life 
thereby,  new  dispensations  in  that  country.  Perhaps, 
also,  in  a country  of  which  many  provinces  contain 
a population  so  densely  overgrown,  it  could  hardly 
be  otherwise  than  that  most  of  its  inhabitants  would 
be  compelled  to  live  on  short  allowances.  The  means 
of  subsistence  are  not  proportioned  to  the  number  of 
mouths  to  be  supplied.  And  this  natural  evil  has  no 
doubt  been  made  worse  by  the  selfishness  of  com- 
merce, in  exporting  to  other  countries  large  quan- 
tities of  rice  for  the  provision  of  people  who  can 
afford  to  pay  a better  price  for  their  bread.  But  the 
main  cause  of  Hindu  poverty  and  suffering,  in  my 
judgment,  is  the  intolerable  burden  of  their  religious 
system,  with  its  countless  hosts  of  unprofitable  priests 
and  faquirs ; its  multitude  of  beggars,  earning  reli- 


34 


THE  HINDUS. 


gious  merit,  not  urged  by  necessity  to  seek  for  alms ; 
its  numerous  long,  expensive,  and  painful  pilgrimages 
to  holy  shrines  and  places,  involving  thousands  of 
families  every  year  in  utter  ruin  ; its  incessant  drain- 
ing of  the  hard-earned  gains  of  every  laboring  man 
and  woman  to  satisfy  the  exactions  of  the  Brahmans 
for  priestly  services,  in  ways  and  for  occasions  as 
numerous  as  the  houi-s  of  every  man’s  'life,  and  with 
a rigor  of  superstition  incredible  to  those  who  have 
not  themselves  been  not  merely  witnesses  but  stu- 
dents of  its  enormity ; and,  perhaps,  more  than  all, 
the  apathetic,  death-like  influence  of  caste,  withering 
and  destroying  all  enterprise,  improvement,  and 
hope  of  bettering  their  condition. 

The  literature  of  the  Indians  is  very  peculiar  in 
its  character,  nor  is  it  easy  to  form  an  accurate 
opinion  of  its  value.  Mr.  Colebrooke  has  given  a 
general  outline  or  analysis  of  their  writings  in  the 
Asiatic  Researches,  which  presents  them  in  a suffi- 
ciently favorable  light.  From  this  paper  a few 
particulars  may  be  quoted.  There  are  six  proper 
Shastras,  in  which  all  knowledge,  divine  and  human, 
is  said  to  be  comprehended.  These  are  the  Yeda, 
Upaveda,  Yedanga,  Purana,  Dherma,  and  Dersana, 
The  four  Vedas,  the  fountain  of  all  knowledge,  treat 
of  works,  faith,  and  worship.  Some  of  these  are  of 
very  ancient  origin,  being  written  in  Sanscrit  so  ob- 
scure and  concise  that  modern  scholars  with  difficulty 
understand  them.  They  are  of  great  extent,  con- 
sisting of  two  thousand  sections,  with  many  hun- 


THE  HINDUS. 


35 


dred  branches  in  various  divisions  and  sub-divisions. 
The  Tantra,  Mantra,  and  other  incantations,  which 
are  very  numerous,  belong  to  this  class.  The  com- 
mentaries on  the  Yedas  are  said  to  be  innumerable. 
The  Upavedas,  or  sub-scriptures,  are  deduced  from 
the  Yedas,  and  treat  of  medicine,  music,  archery, 
under  which  the  whole  art  of  war  is  included,  archi- 
tecture, &c.  Mr.  Colebrooke  says,  that  the  medical 
books  contain  much  useful  information  concerning 
the  virtues  of  Indian  roots  and  plants.  The  medical 
practice  of  the  Hindus  does  not  deserve  the  name  of 
a regular  science.  Three  of  the  six  Vedangas  treat 
of  grammar,  a fourth  of  the  obscure  words  in  the 
Yedas,  a fifth  of  religious  ceremonies,  and  another  of 
the  whole  range  of  mathematics.  The  Sanscrit  pro- 
sody is  said  to  be  easy  and  beautiful,  containing  all 
the  measures  of  the  Greeks.  Astronomical  works  in 
the  Sanscrit  are  very  numerous,  seventy-nine  of 
them  being  specified  in  one  list.  Subordinate  to 
these  general  classes  are  the  three  last  mentioned  of 
the  proper  Shastras,  containing  the  poems,  the  body 
of  law,  and  the  philosophical  treatises.  The  Ra- 
mayana  and  the  Mahabharat  are  the  principal  poems; 
the  former  is  “ a complete  epic  poem  on  one  con- 
tinued, interesting,  and  heroic  action  the  latter  is 
superior  in  its  reputation  for  holiness.  The  eighteen 
Puranas,  of  which  the  Bhagawat,  or  life  of  Krishna, 
is  the  last,  if  contain  ancient  traditions,  embellished 
by  poetry,  or  disguised  by  fables.”  The  system  of 
Law  consists  of  many  tracts  in  high  estimation,  of 
which  the  most  celebrated  is  the  Code  of  Menu,  on 


36 


THE  HINDUS. 


which  there  are  numerous  commentaries.  The  Der- 
sana,  or  Philosophical  writings,  are  also  very  nume- 
rous, and  are  explained  by  many  commentators. 
The  Vedanta  is  considered  analogous  to  the  Platonic, 
the  first  Nya  ya  to  the  Peripatetic,  and  other  classes 
to  corresponding  Greek  schools.  Besides  the  Shas- 
tras,  or  sacred  writings,  there  are  books  for  the  use 
of  the  Sudras,  or  lowest  and  far  the  most  numerous 
class  of  the  Hindus ; but  the  paper  from  which  these 
notices  are  quoted,  does  not  give  a satisfactory 
account  of  them,  nor  have  I elsewhere  met  with  a 
description  of  them.  The  longest  life  would  not  be 
sufficient  for  the  perusal  of  these  Shastras.  The 
Puranas  alone  are  said  to  contain  nearly  five  hundred 
thousand  stanzas,  with  a million  more,  probably,  in 
the  other  works  mentioned. 

All  these  writings  are  regarded  as  sacred.  Not 
only  the  biographies  of  their  gods,  but  their  works 
on  law,  astronomy,  and  other  subjects,  are  considered 
of  divine  authority. 

Extensive  as  are  the  writings  of  the  Hindus,  there 
are  comparatively  few  learned  men  amongst  them, 
and  they  are  by  no  means  correct  general  scholars ; 
and  their  acquirements  are  seldom  of  much  practical 
value.  Their  studies  have  the  effect  of  disciplining 
their  faculties,  so  that  they  are  often  acute  and  ready 
reasoners.  The  great  body  of  the  people,  however, 
are  ignorant  in  the  extreme.  They  are  debased 
alike  by  their  religion  and  their  poverty.  Their 
religion  has  no  days  of  instruction,  their  temples 
have  no  preachers,  and  their  poverty  leaves  no  time 


THE  HINDUS. 


37 


for  the  cultivation  of  the  mind.  Besides  these  causes 
of  ignorance  is  another  more  universal  and  powerful, 
the  degraded  condition  of  the  female  sex.  Pre- 
vented both  by  their  religion  and  their  social  usages 
from  acquiring  the  simplest  elements  of  written 
knowledge,  never  seen  in  the  schools,  neither  ho- 
nored nor  cherished  by  their  parents,  brothers,  or 
husbands,  they  can  impart  but  little  valuable  know- 
ledge to  their  offspring.  The  mothers  throughout 
the  land  being  thus  unfitted  for  their  high  office  as 
the  earliest-  teachers,  the  children  grow  up  in  a great 
measure  untaught  and  vicious  ; and  the  time  of  youth, 
the  only  season  of  leisure  to  most  Hindus,  passes 
away  without  instruction,  discipline,  or  improve- 
ment. 

The  religion  of  the  Hindus  is  a very  large  sub- 
ject ; to  do  it  justice  would  require  a volume.  I 
shall  endeavor  to  present  merely  a few  notices  and 
remarks  of  a general  character  concerning  it. 

It  is  supposed  that  about  one  seventh  part  of  the 
Hindus  are  followers  of  the  false  prophet.  Their 
faith  is  like  that  of  their  sect  everywhere,  and  their 
practice  differs  but  little  from  that  of  their  heathen 
countrymen.  They  are  hardly  less  superstitious, 
nor  at  all  less  addicted  to  immoral  practices. 
Amongst  the  pagan  Hindus  there  is  a considerable 
diversity  of  sects,  whose  religious  tenets  are  various 
and  often  contradictory.  The  Budhists  and  the 
Jains  hold  opinions  that  are  irreconcilable  with  the 
Brahmanical  forms  of  belief.  The  votaries  of  the 


38 


THE  HINDUS, 


latter  constitute  the  much  larger  part  of  the 
people. 

According  to  their  belief,  “ the  great  deity  Brahm 
remains  in  obscurity,  and  superstition  is  never 
allowed  to  profane  his  name,  which  is  always  kept 
clear  of  fiction.  Three  energies,  however,  the  cre- 
ating, preserving,  and  destroying,  are  embodied 
under  the  names  of  Brahma,  Vishnu,  and  Siva,  to 
each  of  whom  a female  or  passive  energy  is  attach- 
ed. These  have  all  human  forms,  diversified  by  the 
imagination  in  various  ways  ; and  as  the  two  last 
are  supposed  to  have  descended  many  times,  each 
avatar  or  incarnation  furnishes  a distinct  deity,  to 
whom  worship  is  addressed.  Of  the  three  specified, 
Brahma  alone  has  no  incarnations,  and  is  never 
worshipped.  Besides  these  three  principal  gods  there 
is  a whole  pantheon  of  minor  deities.  The  sea,  the 
winds,  the  heavens,  the  elements,  the  sun,  moon,  and 
stars,  every  river,  fountain,  and  stream,  is  either  a 
deity  in  itself,  or  has  a divinity  presiding  over  it, 
nothing  being  done  without  the  intervention  of 
supernatural  power.  Descending  still  lower,  there 
are  myriads  of  demi-gods  of  a most  extraordinary 
description,  and  numerous  beyond  the  powers  of 
calculation.  A little  red  paint  smeared  over  a stone, 
a lump  of  clay,  or  the  stump  of  a tree,  converts  it 
into  a god,  worshipped  by  the  lower  classes,  and 
saluted  by  the  upper  with  much  apparent  devotion.” 

This  extract  from  Hamilton’s  Gazetteer  presents 
a succinct  sketch  of  the  objects  of  worship  among 
the  greater  part  of  the  Hindus.  Some  writers  enu- 


the  Hindus. 


39 


merate  seventeen  principal  deities  ; the  whole  num- 
ber, composed  of  all  the  classes,  is  often  stated  at 
three  hundred  and  thirty  millions,  which,  we  may 
suppose,  is  a large  number  intended  to  convey  the 
idea  of  infinity.  It  is,  however,  doubtless  true  that 
in  India  the  gods  are  more  numerous  than  their 
worshippers. 

The  metaphysical  among  the  educated  classes 
will  describe  their  religion  as  a pure  theism,  ex- 
plaining away  what  seems  contrary  to  the  divine 
unity  in  the  number  of  gods  and  goddesses,  and 
putting  a spiritual  construction  on  what  is  gross  in 
the  actual  prevalence  of  idolatry;  and  they  will 
express  many  just  views  of  the  character  of  God. 
Others  hold  such  notions  as  are  but  atheism,  and 
others  more,  numerous  are  pantheists  ; while  the  mass 
of  the  people,  incapable  of  refined  speculations,  are 
neither  more  nor  le^s  than  idolaters,  worshipping 
“ lords  many  and  gods  many.” 

If  we  look  now  at  the  common  observances  of 
religion,  and  the  degree  of  attention  given  to  its 
worship,  we  must  consider  the  Hindus  a highly  reli- 
gious people.  Nothing  is  undertaken,  no  event 
occurs,  hardly  an  hour  passes,  without  the  perform- 
ance of  religious  services.  These  are  sometimes 
very  simple,  perhaps  merely  the  reverent  lifting 
of  the  folded  hands  to  the  forehead ; sometimes, 
very  difficult  and  expensive,  such  as  prayers  and 
fastings,  repeated  bathings,  pilgrimages,  painful  self 
inflictions,  gifts  of  flowers,  rice,  and  money,  sacri- 
fices of  goats,  bullocks,  and  formerly  of  human  life. 

3* 


40 


THE  HlNHUS, 


The  birth  of  a child,  giving  his  name,  marriage* 
engaging  in  business,  making  a journey,  sickness, 
death,  funeral  rites,  and  a thousand  other  things,  are 
the  occasions  for  performing  religious  ceremonies ; 
and  as  the  Brahmans  alone  can  officiate,  and  are 
always  paid  for  their  services  according  to  the  utmost 
measure  of  the  votary’s  means,  they  are  extremely 
watchful  to  prevent  any  omission  or  neglect  of  ritual 
duty.  It  has  been  well  ascertained  that  the  rite  of 
the  suttee,  or  self-immolation,  was  strongly  urged  in 
many  cases  on  poor  widows  by  these  priests,  who 
were  instigated  by  the  mercenary  motive  of  sharing 
in  the  presents,  which  were  always  made  by  surviv- 
ing friends  on  such  occasions. 

There  are  numerous  religious  buildings,  or  tem- 
ples, of  a great  variety  in  their  structure  and  size, 
which  are  only  places  of  prayer  and  ritual  solem- 
nities, and  not  of  religious  instruction.  There  are 
no  regular  days  of  rest  and  religious  teaching,  but 
numerous  festivals  are  observed.  These  differ  in 
length  from  a few  hours  to  several  weeks ; they 
are  professedly  observed  by  the  followers  of  the  god 
in  whose  honor  they  are  held,  but  other  sects  often 
unite  in  their  celebration ; and  they  are  usually 
accompanied  with  great  frivolity  and  dissipation. 

Without  going  more  at  length  into  an  account  of 
this  religion,  I would  now  notice  its  defects  and 
faults.  It  gives  no  correct  revelation  of  the  charac- 
ter and  will  of  God.  It  provides  no  atonement  for 
sin,  nor  any  motives  nor  means  of  purifying  the 
fountains  of  thought  and  affection  in  our  depraved 


THE  HINDUS. 


41 


nature.  It  imposes  no  restraint  on  the  wickedness 
of  men.  It  yields  no  support  nor  any  consolation  in 
the  time  of  sickness,  calamity,  and  bereavement. 
It  sheds  no  light  on  the  grave,— -opens  no  door  of 
hope  beyond  the  tomb.  It  is  thus  a religion  of  dark- 
ness,— cheerless,  gloomy,  full  of  despair  to  the  soul 
of  a sinful  man. 

It  is,  moreover,  worse  than  all  this.  We  have 
seen  its  oppressive  influence  on  the  temporal  condi- 
tion of  the  people.  Besides  this,  it  is  most  demo- 
ralizing. It  authorizes  the  commission  of  various 
crimes,  amongst  which,  to  certain  classes,  that  of 
remorseless  murder ; see,  for  proof,  the  work  pub- 
lished by  the  British  India  Government,  concerning 
Thuggee.*  The  gods  and  goddesses  are  the  exem- 
plars of  every  vice  and  crime.  Their  history  is 
often  outrageously  shocking  to  every  pure  mind,  and 
so  is  their  worship.  Abandoned  women  are  a part 
of  the  establishment  connected  with  many  temples  ; 
dissolute  priests  abound,  and  their  sacred  character 

* “ Ramasseeana,  or  a Vocabulary  of  the  peculiar  language  used  by 
the  Thugs,  with  an  Introduction  and  Appendix  descriptive  of  the  sys- 
tem pursued  by  that  Fraternity,  and  of  the  measures  which  have  been 
adopted  by  the  Supreme  Government  of  India  for  its  Suppression:  Cal- 
cutta, 1836.” 

Of  this  work  a distinguished  civilian  in  India  has  remarked,  “It 
contains,  I think,  the  most  complete  exposure  that  has  ever  been  made 
of  the  evils  of  idolatry.  Nothing  which  the  missionaries  ever  alleged 
against  it  is  so  conclusive  as  this.  Thuggee  is  a religious  system,  and 
the  Thugs  practise  murder,  just  as  Christians  do  charity,  in  obedience 
to  the  will  of  their  God.” 


42 


THE  HINDUS. 


enables  them  to  become  more  depraved  than  vile 
men  of  other  classes.  Polygamy  prevails,  though 
checked  by  the  poverty  of  the  people  ; and  it  is  lawful, 
because  the  gods  have  many  wives.  A priest  has 
been  known  to  have  sixty  wives,  married  for  their 
dower,  and  for  gratifying  his  own  base  passions. 
Poor  woman  is  degraded  to  a very  low  degree  ; her 
religion  never  inspires  her  mind  with  pure  aims,  nor 
gives  her  an  honorable  standing,  nor  opens  to  her  a 
better  prospect  hereafter.  Truth,  uprightness,  and 
confidence  are  seldom  found  in  business  transactions. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  ascertain  the  merits  of 
cases  brought  before  the  English  judges,  so  unscru- 
pulous and  utterly  false  are  the  witnesses.  Part- 
ners in  the  same  shop  often  have  their  separate 
locks,  to  prevent  one  entering  unless  the  others  are 
also  present.  These  things,  and  many  such  like 
things,  in  themselves  most  evil,  and  not  the  less  evil 
because  flowing  fairly  from  fallen  human  nature,  are 
the  more  dreadful,  because  they  are  the  offspring  of 
religion,  the  imitation  by  men  of  the  character  and 
conduct  of  their  gods! 

I am  well  aware  that  many  writers  have  spoken 
more  favorably  of  the  Hindus,  but  I would  ask 
tbe  reader  to  distinguish  between  things  that  differ. 
There  is  much  in  the  manners  of  a Hindu,  especially 
in  his  respectful  deference  to  his  superiors  (and  all 
Europeans  are  immeasurably  his  superiors,  or  so 
regarded  by  him)  that  is  certainly  very  prepossessing 
and  pleasing.  There  is  also  amongst  themselves 


THE  HINDUS, 


43 


commonly  the  entire  absence)  of  rude  and  violent 
conduct,  and  between  persons  of  the  same  station  in 
life,  there  is  a beautiful  courteousness  of  manner, 
Their  habits  of  living,  moreover,  are  remarkably 
simple,  temperate,  and  regular ; and  there  is  often  a 
touching  regard  for  their  relations.  And  yet  these 
things  have  their  contraries,  especially  the  one  last 
mentioned,  for  you  often  see  the  aged  and  sick  ex- 
posed to  death  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  or  most 
cruelly  neglected  at  home.  But  still,  there  is  much 
to  admire  in  the  manners  of  the  Hindus,  and  much 
also  in  their  character  as  it  appears  to  a superficial 
observer,  especially  if  he  survey  them  from  an  elevat- 
ed position.  It  gives  me  pleasure  to  admit,  also, 
that  there  are  men  who  evince  a praiseworthy  regard 
to  their  engagements.  And  yet  I fully  agree  with 
those  writers  who  represent  the  Hindu  character 
in  darker  shades.  The  favorable  traits  just  men- 
tioned have  misled  amiable  religious  men,  whose 
knowledge  of  the  native  character,  as  it  appears 
among  the  natives,  was  but  limited ; and  these  same 
things  may  have  convinced  men,  not  themselves  ac- 
quainted with  the  evil  of  the  human  heart,  nor  of  its 
sinfulness  before  God,  that  the  Hindus  are  already 
an  excellent,  if  not  a virtuous  people.  But  the  reader 
of  these  pages,  I trust,  will  form  his  opinion  of  the 
statements  brought  under  his  notice,  by  the  unerring 
standard  of  the  Divine  oracles.  And  in  their  light, 
I fear  not  to  claim  for  these  millions  of  heathen,  his 
most  sincere  compassion.  No  people  more  greatly 


44 


THE  HINDUS. 


need  the  enlightening,  purifying,  and  saving  influen- 
ces of  the  religion  of  the  Bible. 

I now  return  to  the  mission,  undertaken  with  the 
humble  hope  of  promoting  the  best  interests  -of  this 
people,  by  making  known  to  them  the  gospel  of  the 
grace  of  God. 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


45 


CHAPTER  IV. 

CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 

North-western  provinces  ; reasons  for  the  choice  of — Educational 
movement — Authorities  friendly — Arrival  timely — Missionary  co- 
operation. 

After  carefully  weighing  the  information  we  had 
received,  Mr.  Reed  and  myself  were  clear  in  our 
conviction  that  the  north-western  provinces  pre- 
sented the  best  field  of  labor  for  the  commence- 
ment of  our  efforts.  They  contain  a numerous  and 
hardy  population,  with  a better  climate  than  the 
lower  provinces  ; and  there  is  a ready  access  to  the 
lower  ranges  of  the  Himalaya  mountains,  in  case  of 
the  failure  of  health.  They  were  then,  and  they  con- 
tinue to  be,  in  a great  measure  unoccupied  by  the 
missionary  institutions  of  other  bodies  of  Christians. 
And  their  position  connects  them  with  other  coun- 
tries in  which  no  efforts  have  yet  been  made  to  intro- 
duce the  Christian  religion.  The  Sikhs,  to  whom 
our  attention  at  first  was,  specially  directed,  are  a 
distinct  people,  neither  Mohammedans  nor  Pagans  in 
their  religion,  though  their  manner  of  life  differs 
but  little  from  that  of  the  pagan  Hindus.  They 
inhabit  chiefly  the  Panjab,  but  many  of  their  chiefs 


46 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


live  on  the  south  side  of  the  Sutlej  under  British 
protection.  The  territories  of  the  latter  are  called 
the  Protected  Sikh  States.  Though  a part  of  the 
Scriptures  had  been  translated  into  their  language, 
the  Gurmukhi,  by  the  Serampore  Society,  no  mis- 
sionary establishment  had  ever  been  formed  for  their 
benefit.  It  was  deemed,  moreover,  highly  impor- 
tant to  choose  a large  field,  and  one  sufficiently 
removed  from  the  missions  of  other  Societies,  so 
that  there  might  be  ample  room  for  extended  efforts. 

These  general  considerations  appeared  of  suffi- 
cient weight  to  authorize  our  deciding  on  this  part  of 
the  country.  We  were  aware  that  it  would  require 
a tedious  journey  and  considerable  expense  to  reach 
any  given  point  in  it ; but  we  considered  that  these 
were  disadvantages  which  some  missionaries  would 
have  to  surmount,  if  the  means  of  grace  should  ever 
be  established  among  those  destitute  people.  We 
had  the  happiness  of  finding  that  our  choice  was 
highly  approved  by  our  Calcutta  advisers,  amongst 
whom  we  had  the  privilege  now  of  consulting  with 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Gorrie,  who  afterwards  became  Bishop 
of  Madras.  He  was  absent  in  the  Upper  Provinces 
on  our  arrival,  where  he  had  been  for  many  years 
stationed  as  a Chaplain,  but  had  now  returned  ; and 
we  accounted  it  no  small  favor  to  be  allowed  to  see 
so  much  of  one  who  was  not  less  beloved  for  his 
amiable  and  pure  character  as  a gentleman,  than 
revered  and  venerated  for  his  excellence  and  faithful- 
ness as  a Christian  minister. 

Besides  the  general  reasons  mentioned  above, 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


47 


there  was  just  at  that  time  a movement  to  promote 
the  spread  of  the  English  language  and  learning  in 
some  of  the  important  cities  in  the  Upper  Provinces. 
English  Colleges  had  been  established  by  the  govern- 
ment at  Agra  and  Delhi ; and  instruction  of  a similar 
kind  was  wanted  at  some  other  places,  one  of  which 
was  Lodiana.  This  was  the  frontier  post  then 
occupied  by  the  British  on  the  north-west,  a town 
of  some  twenty  thousand  or  twenty-five  thousand 
people,  with  the  prospect  of  a large  increase.  It 
contained  a number  of  Afghans  and  Cashmerians 
in  addition  to  Sikhs  and  Hindus.  The  Afghans 
were  from  one  thousand  to  two  thousand  in  number. 
They  were  chiefly  the  retainers  of  two  exiled  kings, 
who,  after  a variety  of  sad  fortunes,  one  of  them 
having  been  cruelly  deprived  of  his  sight,  had  taken 
refuge  under  the  protection  of  the  British.  For 
nearly  twenty  years  these  ex-kings  had  been  living 
at  Lodiana,  receiving  a large  annual  pension  from  the 
generosity  of  the  East  India  Company.  The  younger 
of  them  was  afterwards  on  the  throne  of  Caubul,  so 
various  are  the  changes  of  Eastern  politics  ! The 
Cashmerians  were  more  numerous.  They  had  been 
driven  from  their  homes  by  a famine  and  by  the  op- 
pression of  the  Sikhs,  to  whom  their  beautiful  valley 
was  in  subjection.  Several  thousands  of  them  were 
now  following  their  various  operations,  chiefly  that 
of  weaving,  at  Lodiana.  From  these  classes,  and 
from  the  Hindus,  a number  of  scholars  could  be  pro- 
cured to  attend  an  English  school.  Some  of  the 
Sikh  chiefs,  also,  were  anxious  to  have  their  sons 


48 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


acquainted  with  English  ; and  an  Afghan  chief,  living 
west  of  the  Indus,  had  actually  sent  his  son  to  the 
care  of  the  Political  Agent  at  Lodiana  for  the  same 
purpose — an  event  so  singular  amongst  the  people  of 
that  part  of  the  world,  that  he  received  credit,  I pre- 
sume, for  being  influenced  by  a desire  to  acquire 
political  knowledge  for  his  own  use,  rather  than  the 
instructions  of  a school  for  his  son.  This  desire  of 
an  English  education  was  not  confined  to  Lodiana, 
but  existed  at  Amballa  and  other  places  in  the  north- 
western provinces.  It  was  understood  that  the 
government  had  under  consideration  the  question  of 
extending  their  educational  system  so  as  to  embrace 
Amballa  and  Lodiana,  both  in  the  Protected  Sikh 
States.  It  was  indeed  highly  probable  that  some 
secular  institution  of  learning  would  soon  be  formed 
at  one  or  both  of  these  cities. 

Our  Calcutta  advisers  rightly  deemed  it  of  great 
importance,  that  in  the  first  efforts  to  be  made,  the 
Christian  religion  should  not  be  divorced  from  edu- 
cation, as  is  unhappily  the  case  in  the  government 
Colleges  and  most  of  the  schools  for  English  learn- 
ing in  India ; the  influence  of  such  seminaries, 
therefore,  only  tending  to  the  overthrow  of  the  exist- 
ing religion  of  the  country,  without  at  all  introducing 
the  Christian  faith  in  its  stead.  And  they  and  our- 
selves both  considered  it  advisable  to  connect  our 
proceedings,  in  the  first  instance,  if  possible,  with 
this  Educational  movement.  Having  decided  on 
these  provinces  as  our  sphere  of  duty,  it  seemed  ex- 
tremely desirable  to  enter  on  our  vocation,  by  taking 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


49 


the  lead  in  the  efforts  for  the  instruction  of  the  peo- 
ple ; thus  gaining  effectual  access  to  the  minds  of 
influential  classes,  without  awakening  their  religious 
prejudices,  which  were  represented  as  peculiarly 
strong  in  provinces  so  lately  brought  under  British 
rule.  The  same  consideration,  though  with  dimi- 
nished force,  applied  to  our  intercourse  at  first  with 
the  English  gentlemen  in  charge  of  the  government 
of  the  Upper  Provinces.  Education  was  common 
ground  for  them  and  ourselves  to  stand  on,  until  they 
could  become  acquainted  with  our  views  and  plans 
of  proceeding.  For  it  should  be  remembered,  that 
we  were  the  first  American  missionaries  who  had 
attempted  to  form  stations  in  Upper  India,  and  our 
character,  object,  and  mode  of  proceedings  were  all 
to  be  developed.  If  favorable  impressions  should  be 
made  by  the  pioneers  of  our  enterprise,  it  would 
greatly  conduce  to  the  comfort  and  success  of  both 
themselves  and  their  future  associates.  Indeed,  in 
the  Protected  Sikh  States  almost  everything  depend- 
ed, in  the  first  efforts,  on  the  friendly  countenance  of 
the  political  agents  and  other  English  gentlemen.  In 
these  circumstances,  the  kind  offices  of  the  gentle- 
man in  the  Civil  Service,  to  whom  I have  referred 
as  one  of  our  friendly  advisers,  were  invaluable. 
He  was  one  of  the  most  able  and  successful  sup- 
porters of  the  change  of  policy  in  the  Government 
pati'onage  of  education,  whereby  the  antiquated  and 
cumbrous  systems  of  oriental  error  were  made  to 
give  place  to  the  liberal  and  useful  branches  of  Euro- 
pean knowledge ; and  the  educational  movement  in 


50 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


the  north-west  had  already  found  in  him  a warm  and 
efficient  advocate.  His  official  and  friendly  rela- 
tions, moreover,  with  the  officers  of  the  government 
in  the  Sikh  States,  as  well  as  his  position  in  the 
Cabinet,  to  use  our  Washington  phrase,  were  pre- 
cisely those  which  rendered  his  cordial  advocacy  of 
our  object  of  the  greatest  service.  We  should  have 
been  blind,  indeed,  not  to  have  seen  and  recognised 
in  these  things  the  kind  interposition  of  Him,  in 
whose  cause  we  were  engaged,  and  who  thus  gave 
us  favor  in  the  sight  of  his  servants,  the  rulers  of  the 
land. 

This  extended  account  will  not  be  considered  too 
long,  when  the  reader  adverts  to  the  apprehension 
which  existed  amongst  many  persons  in  our  own 
country,  as  to  our  reception  by  the  British  authorities. 
They  had  feared  that  difficulties  might  be  interposed 
to  prevent  our  proceeding  to  the  interior.  Some  of 
our  countrymen,  twenty  years  before,  had  been  re- 
quired by  the  men  then  in  office  to  withdraw  from 
the  territories  of  the  East  India  Company.  And  so 
little  was  known  at  home  of  the  favorable  change  in 
the  administration  of  the  India  government,  and  of 
the  liberal  and  enlightened  policy  of  Lord  W.  C. 
Bentinck,  the  Governor  General  at  the  time  of  our 
arrival,  that  it  was  considered  doubtful  by  some  of 
our  best  informed  men  whether  we  would  be  allowed 
to  form  a settlement  in  the  interior.  In  England 
there  is  often  much  complaint,  by  those  connected 
with  India  affairs,  of  the  want  of  information  and  the 
apathy  of  the  community  at  large  in  regard  to  every- 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


51 


thing  in  India.  In  the  United  States,  for  obvious 
reasons,  there  is  still  less  information  and  interest 
concerning  such  matters;  but  “the  times  of  this 
ignorance,”  we  may  hope,  are  passing  away,  to  be 
succeeded  by  a lively  concern,  especially  amongst 
religious  people,  in  everything  affecting  the  welfare  of 
so  large  a portion  of  the  human  family.  Our  misappre- 
hensions and  misgivings  as  to  being  allowed  to  pro- 
ceed into  the  interior  of  the  country  were  entirely 
without  foundation.  We  obtained  the  full  permission 
of  the  Governor  General  in  Council  to  proceed  to  the 
places  we  had  mentioned  in  a petition,  in  which  we  had 
stated  concisely  but  clearly  our  object,  and  requested 
liberty  to  reside  in  the  north-western  provinces.  It 
was  considered  advisable  in  the  first  instance  to  send 
up  such  a petition,  in  order  to  preclude  all  suspicion 
as  to  our  character  and  plans,  and  to  remove  any 
possible  hinderance  fi’om  the  path  of  those  who  should 
follow  us.  For  the  favorable  presenting  of  this  paper, 
we  were  indebted  to  the  gentleman  whose  kindness 
I have  already  spoken  of.  We  can  now  look  to  a 
missionary  home  in  India  with  no  more  apprehension 
on  this  point  than  we  should  contemplate  a removal 
from  one  of  our  own  States  to  another. 

I should  not  dismiss  this  point,  without  mentioning 
the  view  impressed  on  my  mind  by  Lord  William 
Bentinck’s  administration  of  the  Supreme  Govern- 
ment in  India.  It  was  his  high  honor  to  suppress 
the  horrible  rite  of  the  suttee,  to  encourage  the  study 
of  useful  knowledge  in  the  government  colleges,  to 


52 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


abolish  the  odious  and  oppressive  system  of  transit- 
duties,  and  to  manifest  a steady  regard  to  the  prin- 
ciple, itself  not  more  benevolent  than  true,  that  the 
present  rulers  of  India  have  been  intrusted  with  the 
power  to  control  the  destinies  of  its  myriads  of  people, 
only  in  order  to  promote  their  best  advance  in  know- 
ledge and  general  improvement.  And  it  would  be 
extremely  ungrateful  in  me  not  to  acknowledge  at 
the  same  time  our  obligations  to  Lady  William  Ben- 
tinck,  for  her  Christian  favor  towards  our  object. 
Her  influence  was  given  to  promote  it  with  a kind- 
ness worthy  of  herself,  and  in  a manner  the  most 
considerate  and  effective. 

Our  arrival  in  India  appeared  now  to  be  most 
seasonable.  If  we  had  arrived  at  Calcutta  at  an 
earlier  period,  the  special  providences  which  seemed 
to  open  a door  before  us  at  Lodiana  had  not  then 
occurred,  and  we  should  probably  have  been  led  to 
choose  some  other  part  of  the  country  as  the  scene 
of  our  labors.  If  we  had  arrived  one  year  later, 
we  should  doubtless  have  found  the  ground  pre- 
occupied ; some  secular  institution  of  learning  would 
have  so  completely  blocked  up  the  way,  that  it  might 
not  have  appeared  practicable  to  form  a religious 
establishment.  We  could  not  doubt  that  we  were 
under  the  guidance  of  Him  who  orders  all  things 
according  to  the  counsel  of  his  will,  and  who  ever 
goes  before  his  people,  disposing  their  way  so  as  to 
promote  their  best  usefulness  and  his  own  highest 
glory. 


CHOICE  OF  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


53 


Nor  could  we  fail  to  acknowledge  with  gratitude  the 
kind  and  Christian  reception  extended  to  us  by  our 
English  missionary  brethren.  The  Calcutta  and 
Serampore  missionaries,  and  those  whom  we  after- 
wards met  at  other  places,  of  every  denomination, 
not  only  gave  us  a cordial  welcome  as  co-laborers 
with  themselves,  but  cheerfully  granted  us  every 
information  and  advice,  often  greatly  needed  by  per- 
sons so  inexperienced  as  we  were,  and  always  valu- 
able from  their  long  acquaintance  with  the  country 
and  people.  The  remembrance  of  much  pleasant 
Christian  intercourse  with  them,  often  awakens  many 
tender  and  sacred  feelings.  There  is  surely  some- 
thing as  delightful  as  it  is  singular  in  the  bond  of 
brotherhood,  which  unites  all  the  sincere  followers 
of  Christ.  Here  were  Englishmen,  Scotchmen,  Ger- 
mans, and  Americans,  Episcopalians,  Independents, 
Baptists,  and  Presbyterians,  dwelling  together. in 
Christian  charity;  laboring  together,  not  perhaps 
with  perfect  harmony  of  views,  for  that  is  reserved 
for  a better  state,  but  with  mutual  confidence  and 
esteem;  not  laying ^aside  their  respective  peculiari- 
ties, but  so  strongly  animated  by  a common  spirit 
and  a common  aim,  that  their  various  differences  did 
not  prevent  their  respecting  each  other,  and  seeking 
each  other’s  highest  usefulness.  May  this  spirit  of 
forbearance  and  of  love  ever  dwell  in  the  hearts  of 
all  missionaries  and  all  Christian  peyple ! 

In  the  review,  therefore,  of  the  many  favorable 
circumstances  under  which  our  missionary  course 


54 


CHOICE  OP  A MISSIONARY  FIELD. 


was  commenced  in  India,  it  were  not  only  blindness, 
but  ingratitude,  not  to  recognise  the  hand  of  God  in 
thus  prospering  our  way.  And  the  persuasion  that 
His  presence  and  blessing  were  indeed  with  us, 
proved  our  support  and  our  ground  of  hope  in  many 
dark  and  trying  hours. 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


55 


J> 

CHAPTER  Y.  * 

EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 

Death  of  Mrs.  Lowrie — Decision  to  remain  at  Calcutta  till  the  rainy 
season — Study  of  the  language — Missionary  efforts,  three  kinds — 
Mr.  Reed’s  illness  and  return. 

It  was  but  a few  weeks  after  our  arrival  at  Cal- 
cutta that  we  were  called  to  bow  in  submission  to 
the  will  of  God,  in  what  was  to  me  a very  distress- 
ing dispensation.  My  wife’s  health  was  by  no 
means  firm  on  leaving  the  United  States,  but  her 
medical  advisers  thought  her  going  to  a warmer  and 
less  changeable  climate  would  prove  a means  of  re- 
storing her  strength.  During  the  voyage,  however, 
she  became  gradually  weaker,  and  before  we  reached 
Calcutta,  it  was  apparent  that  her  days  would  soon 
be  numbered.  She  was  herself  the  first  to  perceive 
the  true  nature  of  her  illness ; she  calmly  prepared 
herself  for  its  fatal  result ; and  she  endeavored  to 
prepare  our  minds  for  the  hour  of  parting.  Never 
have  I known  any  person  in  similar  circumstances, 
whose  mind  was  kept  more  perfectly  in  peace,  arid 
whose  prevailing  desire  was  stronger  “ to  depart  and 
to  be  with  Christ.”  With  a blessed  Christian  hope, 
she  departed  this  life  on  the  21st  November.  It  is 

4 


56 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


not  expedient  to  give  an  extended  notice  here  of  one 
who  was  greatly  beloved.  Her  former  pastor,  the 
Rev.  A.  G.  Fairchild,  D.D.,  was  kind  enough  to 
prepare  a small  volume  of  her  memoirs,  which  has 
met  with  much  acceptance,  having  passed  through 
several  editions,  and  which,  there  is  reason  to  be- 
lieve, has  rendered  good  service  to  the  cause  to 
which  she  had  devoted  her  life.  Her  remains  now 
rest  in  the  Scottish  Burial  Ground,  Calcutta. 

I have  forborne  to  speak  of  my  own  feelings  in 
this  time  of  deep  affliction.  There  are  dispensations 
in  the  lives  of  most  men,  whose  desolating  severity 
no  language  can  describe.  There  are  hours  of  cold 
despair,  which  nature  could  not  long  endure.  The 
blessed  Gospel  is  our  best  and  our  only  real  solace 
in  such  times  of  trial.  The  support  of  our  holy 
religion  was  graciously  vouchsafed,  as  I trust,  to 
myself  and  my  companions  in  this  bereavement ; 
and  though  the  early  removal  of  one  who  appeared 
so  well  fitted  for  usefulness  was  a dark  event,  we 
were  assured  that  we  should  sorrow  not  as  those  who 
have  no  hope,  that  we  should  weep  only  for  our- 
selves and  for  the  heathen,  and  that  we  should  know 
hereafter,  as  we  could  believe  now,  that  infinite 
kindness  and  wisdom  had  been  displayed  in  our 
calamity. 

A week  or  two  before  this  mournful  event,  it  had 
been  agreed  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Reed  should  proceed 
alone  to  the  station  we  had  concluded  to  occupy, 
and  they  had  made  some  progress  in  their  prepara- 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


57 


tion  for  the  journey.  But  on  further  reflection  it 
was  thought  better  to  delay  their  departure.  It  was 
now  evident  that  Mrs.  Lowrie  could  not  linger  long 
amongst  us,  and  they,  with  the  kindest  consideration 
of  our  feelings,  did  not  wish  to  leave  us  alone  in  the 
approaching  hour  of  death.  Besides  this  it  was 
urged  by  our  friends  in  Calcutta  that  the  river  at 
that  season  was  low,  and  the  winds  adverse,  so  that 
it  would  be  a very  tedious  and  difficult  voyage  to 
ascend  it.  And  as  the  hot  winds  would  prevail  in 
the  upper  provinces  before  they  could  finish  the  land 
part  of  their  route,  it  was  deemed  better  to  postpone 
their  journey.  It  was  therefore  finally  concluded 
that  they  should  remain  at  Calcutta  until  the  next 
rainy  season,  and  then  I could  proceed  with  them  ; 
in  the  meantime  we  could  prosecute  the  study  of  the 
native  language.  If  they  had  gone  agreeably  to  our 
first  decision,  I have  often  endeavored  to  imagine 
what  would  probably  have  been  the  subsequent  his- 
tory of  our  mission.  It  has  been  well  remarked, 
that  “ we  do  not  know  what  are  the  small,  nor  what 
the  great  events  of  our  lives sometimes  those 
which  appear  smallest  are  yet  attended  with  the 
gravest  consequences.  If  Mr.  Reed  had  proceeded, 
possibly  his  valuable  life  might  have  been  greatly 
prolonged ; and  yet  the  journey,  instead  of  proving 
beneficial,  might  have  rendered  his  days  fewer  in 
number.  One  thing  has  seemed  not  improbable,  if 
he  had  proceeded  with  his  wife  as  his  only  com- 
panion, that,  owing  to  the  length  of  the  journey,  and 
the  difficulty  of  making  it  with  so  little  acquaintance 


58 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


with  the  people  and  their  ways  as  we  then  possessed, 
which  would  of  course  have  been  much  more  seri- 
ous to  a married  man  than  to  one  who  had  but  him- 
self to  provide  for,  my  excellent  associate  might 
have  been  induced  to  stop  at  some  of  the  many 
important  places  much  nearer  Calcutta,  which  were 
not  less  in  want  of  missionary  services  than  Lodiana 
and  other  places,  in  the  far  northwest.  I am  sure 
he  would  have  been  strongly  urged  to  occupy  some 
of  these  stations.  Thus  it  might  easily  have  hap- 
pened, not  to  say  that  it  probably  would,  that  the 
missionary  efforts  of  our  Church  in  India  would  have 
been  undertaken  under  widely  different  circum- 
stances from  what  eventually  occurred.  Nor  have 
I any  doubt,  having  now  the  history  of  nearly  seven- 
teen years  to  confirm  the  opinion,  that  our  first  posi- 
tion was  on  many  accounts  preferable  to  any  other, 
as  a point  from  which  to  commence  our  efforts. 
Other  cities  had  a larger  population,  and  could  be 
reached  in  less  time,  and  at  less  expense,  but  at  no 
other  could  more  favorable  introducing  influences 
have  been  enjoyed  ; at  no  other  could  our  position 
have  been  more  distinctly  marked,  nor  our  character 
and  object  more  accurately  estimated  by  the  foreign 
residents  of  the  Upper  Provinces;  at  no  other  were 
we  less  likely  to  find  ourselves  laboring  “in  another 
man’s  line  of  things  made  ready  to  our  hand,”  or  to 
occupy  ground  that  other  bodies  of  Christians  would 
shortly  cultivate  ; and,  not  to  insist  on  the  impor- 
tant consideration  of  health,  no  other  place  could  be 
more  eligible  in  its  relations  to  other  and  not  less 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


59 


dark  regions  of  the  earth,  in  its  facilities  for  acquir- 
ing a number  of  the  languages  chiefly  spoken  in 
those  parts,  and  in  the  access  afforded  to  people 
whose  character,  if  brought  under  Christian  influ- 
ences, and  whose  geographical  situation,  would  bet- 
ter enable  them  to  spread  far  and  wide  the  knowledge 
of  the  true  religion. 

After  my  companions  had  relinquished  the  plan 
of  proceeding  immediately  up  the  country,  we  agreed 
to  take  a house  for  the  next  seven  months  in  Howrah, 
across  the  Hoogley  from  Calcutta ; and  our  plan 
was  to  devote  our  attention  to  the  character  and 
usages  of  the  people,  the  best  plans  of  missionary 
labor  amongst  them,  having  at  that  city  almost  every 
plan  under  our  view,  and  particularly  to  the  acquisi- 
tion of  the  native  language.  As  soon  as  the  requisite 
arrangements  were  made  we  procured  a native 
teacher,  and  commenced  studying  the  language. 
This  must  be  the  first  and  highest  duty  of  the  newly 
arrived  missionary.  Without  this  knowledge  he 
will  probably  become  discontented  in  his  work,  and 
he  assuredly  cannot  be  useful  in  the  highest  degree. 
It  is  a very  unsatisfactory  plan  to  depend  on  inter- 
preters, and  it  is  never  adopted  by  missionaries  in 
India,  unless  for  a short  time  while  they  are  learning 
the  language  themselves.  This  study  must  engage 
the  main  labor  indeed  of  every  missionary,  until  he 
is  able  to  speak  the  language  with  ease.  And  it 
will  be  well  for  him  if  he  have  the  advice  and  aid 
of  missionary  associates,  already  acquainted  with 
the  particular  dialect  which  he  undertakes  to  ac- 


60 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


quire.  For  want  of  this  aid,  we  met  with  consi- 
derable embarrassment;  our  Calcutta  missionary 
friends  speaking  the  Bengali,  and  not  the  up-country 
dialects,  and  our  Hindustani  teacher  being  able  to 
give  us  little  more  assistance  than  to  teach  us  the 
true  pronunciation.  In  this  study,  however,  almost 
everything  depends  on  one’s  own  efforts.  And 
while  a close  and  patient  attention  should  be  given 
to  books,  such  as  grammars,  dictionaries,  and  ap- 
proved authors,  it  is  not  less  necessary  to  mingle 
freely  with  the  people,  and  thus  acquire  a practical 
readiness  of  speech,  and  of  hearing  too,  for  the 
natives  utter  their  words  very  rapidly  and  almost 
inarticulately.  Study  and  practice  must  go  hand  in 
hand.  If  a missionary  would  feel  completely  at 
home  as  a ready  Hindu  speaker,  he  must  spend  much 
of  his  time  exclusively  among  the  natives,  while  he 
cannot  become  an  accurate  and  thorough  scholar 
without  long  continued  study  of  the  best  authors, 
and  without  habits  of  composition  in  writing  the 
language.  A mistake  to  which  one  is  liable,  and  by 
which  we  were  hindered  in  our  progress,  is  often  that 
of  being  too  purely  students.  One  of  the  mission- 
aries now  in  India  has  presented  this  point  graphi- 
cally in  a paragraph,  which  fully  supports  this  .sug- 
gestion. “ Many  appear  to  have  commenced  with  the 
idea  that  they  must  stick  to  their  books,  and  attempt 
little  or  nothing  until  they  are  masters  of  the  lan- 
guage. Perhaps  they  start  out  when  they  think 
they  can  talk  pretty  well ; of  course  they  are  disap- 
pointed, and  somewhat  discouraged  by  their  failure. 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


61 


They  slip  back  into  their  study,  and  at  once  jump 
to  the  resolution  of  the  fool  in  the  Greek  fable,  that 
he  would  never  venture  into  the  water  again  until  he 
had  learned  to  swim.  Those  who  have  acted  on 
the  other  principle  have  uniformly,  1 believe,  be- 
come the  earliest  and  best  preachers  in  the  native 
language.” 

While  we  were  thus  employed,  we  did  not  neglect 
to  make  ourselves  acquainted  with  the  plans  of  labor 
adopted  by  the  missionaries  in  Calcutta.  We  en- 
joyed capital  opportunities  of  profiting  by  their  expe- 
rience, and  as  the  result  of  our  inquiries,  1 insert  an 
extract  from  our  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Society, 
the  Rev.  E.  P.  Swift,  D.D.,  under  date  of  April  24th, 
1834.  The  views  given  below  have  been  supported 
by  later  and  longer  experience. 

“ Perhaps  the  direct  efforts  of  missionaries  may  be 
reduced  to  three  classes ; Preaching  the  Gospel  to 
many  or  few,  as  opportunity  occurs,  and  in  what- 
ever way  circumstances  permit ; Preparation  of 
Books,  including  especially  the  translation  of  the 
Sacred  Scriptures  and  the  distribution  of  them  ; and 
the  Establishment  and  Superintendence  of  Schools. 
A single  missionary  may  engage  more  or  less  in  all 
these  ways  of  doing  good,  if  he  have  the  requisite 
talents,  health,  and  grace ; but  probably  his  labors 
would,  in  ordinary  circumstances,  be  more  efficient, 
if  devoted  chiefly  to  one  of  these  departments.  All 
these  modes  are  open  to  our  choice.  As  to  the  first, 
we  have  been  able  to  hear  of  only  one  missionary 


62 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


that  has  ever  gone  among  the  Sikhs,  or  into  the 
Protected  Sikh  States ; and  he  went  only  on  a short 
tour,  and  was  not  acquainted  with  the  language 
principally  spoken.  In  regard  to  the  second,  the 
only  books  in  the  Panjabi  dialect  are  a translation 
of  some  parts  of  the  Bible,  and  a small  grammar  of 
the  language,  both  said  to  be  very  defective  ; at  least, 
we  have  not  yet  heard  of  any  other  books,  such  as  a 
Missionary  Society  would  prepare,  nor  indeed  of  any 
kind.  And  as  to  schools,  we  believe  there  is  not, 
and  never  has  been  one,  under  European  or  Chris- 
tian direction,  among  the  Sikhs.  There  is  one  at 
Sabathu  among  the  Hill  people,  not  under  missionary 
direction,  nor  of  high  order,  which  succeeds  well. 
The  native  schools  throughout  the  country  are  of  no 
value  in  any  point  of  view,  except  as  to  the  mere 
rudiments  of  reading  and  writing ; and  even  these 
are  taught  to  very  few. 

“ We  have,  therefore,  Dear  Brother,  the  entire 
field  before  us,  unoccupied,  unattempted.  It  is  in- 
deed an  inspiring  thought,  that  our  Society  has  the 
prospect  of  beginning  all  that  shall  yet  be  done  in 
communicating  the  blessings  of  science  and  religion 
to  millions.  May  the  Lord  still  prepare  the  way 
and  prosper  the  efforts  you  make  ! 

“ It  has  been  a matter  of  anxious  thought  what 
should  be  the  system  of  education  to  which  we  should 
give  the  preference.  As  to  preaching,  and  in  respect 
to  books,  it  is  but  little  we  can  do  until  we  have 

learned  the  language But  to  superintend  a 

native  school,  we  mean  one  taught  by  native  teachers, 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


63 


and  in  the  native  language,  a slighter  acquaintance 
with  the  language  is  required,  than  is  necessary  in 
preaching.  In  teaching  an  English  school,  the  mis- 
sionary might  begin  almost  immediately  after  his 
location.  Some  diversity  of  sentiment  exists  as  to 
the  prominence  which  should  be  given  to  education 

in  English Our  great  object  should  be  to  train 

up,  by  God’s  blessing  and  grace,  a race  of  native 
preachers.  To  the  former  object,  though  to  a cer- 
tain extent  it  should,  and  we  hope  will,  receive  our 
attention,  our  number  is  quite  inadequate.  It  must, 
indeed,  be  manifest,  that  the  Church  cannot  send 
forth  a sufficient  number  of  missionaries  to  educate 
the  entire  population  in  a proper  manner.  The  men 
suitable  in  qualifications  and  circumstances  are  not 
to  be  had.  Moreover,  it  would  be  at  a vast  expense 
of  money,  of  time,  and  of  life,  that  such  a plan  could 
be  carried  into  execution.  But  all  concur,  that  the 
best  method  is  to  train  up  native  preachers,  by  send- 
ing forth  a sufficient  number  of  persons  to  conduct 
the  system  by  which  they  are  to  be  educated. 

“ Persuaded  that  yourself  and  the  Committee  will 
fully  accord  with  these  views,  though  so  imperfectly 
presented,  we  proceed  to  mention  directly,  but  briefly, 
the  considerations  which  induce  us  to  think,  that 
English  education  should  be  made  prominent.  Here 
it  will  be  recollected,  that  our  chief  object  in  education 
is  to  prepare  native  ministers,  who  should  be  possessed 
of  all  the  knowledge  necessary  to  understand,  explain, 
and  enforce  the  meaning  of  the  Sacred  Volume. 
Any  other  kind  of  ministers  would  be  of  little  ser- 

4* 


64 


events  at  Calcutta. 


vice.  But  this  knowledge  does  not  exist  in  their 
language.  Shall  we  then  endeavor  to  translate  all 
the  store  of  English  Theology  into  Panjabi ; or  shall 
we  educate  young  men  in  the  English  language,  and 
spread  before  them  the  vast  treasures  of  our  Biblical, 
Systematic,  and  Practical  Works  ? The  former  plan 
is  much  the  most  expensive  of  the  two,  and  much 
the  least  practicable.  All  the  missionaries  in  India 
could  not  accomplish  the  former,  though  aided  by 
the  funds  of  all  the  existing  Missionary  Societies. 
The  latter  plan  is  simple,  and,  with  the  Divine  bless* 
ing,  may  be  carried  into  effect  by  a few  individuals. 
It  is  indeed  only  applying  to  a heathen  land  the 
principles  recognised  by  our  beloved  Church  concern- 
ing our  ministers,  though  with  greatly  increased 
force  of  application  in  a heathen  land.  English  will 
become  to  this  country,  what  the  Latin  was  to  our 
forefathers — the  learned  language  of  the  people. 
And  it  is  worthy  of  special  notice  by  every  observer 
of  Providence  in  this  land,  that  just  at  the  time  when 
many  natives  are  wishing  to  acquire  a knowledge  of 
the  English  language,  the  Sanscrit,  Arabic,  and  Per* 
sian,  as  if  by  common  consent,  are  beginning  to  be 
laid  on  the  shelf.  The  former  contains  all  that  is 
good,  though  with  much  that  is  bad  ; the  latter  con- 
tain almost  unmixed  evil.  So  far  as  there  is  any 
experience  on  this  subject,  it  decidedly  confirms  this 
statement.  We  may  further  mention,  concerning 
this  matter,  that,  in  addition  to  its  being  the  only  wTay 
of  preparing  suitable  ministers,  this  kind  of  effort  does 
not  prevent  the  missionary  from  preaching,  or  pre- 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA* 


65 


paring  books,  according  to  the  measure  of  his  time 
and  talents  ; while  it  seems  peculiarly  recommended 
to  our  notice  in  this  land,  whei’e  Europeans  and 
Americans  cannot  engage  in  preaching  the  Gospel, 
or  perhaps  in  any  kind  of  duty,  but  at  considerable 
hazard,  exposure,  and  brevity  of  life.  It  is  hardly 
necessary  to  explain,  that  we  do  not  entertain  the 
sentiments  expressed  above,  to  the  exclusion  of 
wishes  and  purposes  for  both  common  and  female 
education  ; but  we  think  it  expedient  to  present  them 
thus  at  length,  because  it  is  probable  this  will  be  our 
first  kind  of  labor,  as  we  can  commence  soon  after  we 
reach  the  scene  of  operation.  We  think  we  shall 
possess  encouraging  prospects  as  to  both  the  other 
kinds  of  instruction.” 

During  the  latter  part  of  the  cold  season,  Mr.  Reed 
was  subject  at  times  to  a slight  cough,  though,  as  his 
general  health  was  good,  it  gave  us  but  little  alarm. 
After  some  weeks,  however,  it  assumed  such  a marked 
character  as  to  awaken  our  serious  concern,  and 
medical  advice  was  obtained,  which,  though  not  of 
a decided  kind,  by  no  means  removed  our  fears.  In 
the  course  of  a few  weeks  longer,  it  became  evident 
that  his  disease  was  consumption.  No  means  was 
left  untried  to  avert  the  disease,  but  it  was  all 
in  vain  ; his  strength  gradually  declined,  and  at  length 
all  hope  of  a final  recovery  was  abandoned.  Mr. 
Reed  himself  was  of  the  opinion  that  his  illness 
might  prove  a very  protracted  one  ; some  of  his  rela- 
tions had  suffered  under  the  same  complaint  for  years, 


66 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


enjoying  during  much  of  the  time  such  a degree  of 
strength  as  fitted  them  for  attending  to  their  usual 
business.  And  his  medical  attendant  encouraged 
this  view  of  his  case,  which  seemed  the  more  pro- 
bable, as  but  one  lobe  of  the  lungs  was  supposed  to 
be  affected.  Still  his  weakness  was  so  great  as  to 
unfit  him  for  usefulness  in  a new  mission,  where 
everything  was  to  be  established ; and  the  expense 
of  living  was  much  greater  than  it  would  be  amongst 
his  friends  ; while  the  degree  of  comfort,  bodily  and 
mental,  was  far  less.  After  much  consideration,  and 
many  fervent  prayers  for  direction  from  on  high,  we 
were  satisfied  that  it  was  advisable  for  him  to  return 
home*.  This  was  an  exceedingly  trying  decision  to 
himself,  and  not  less  so  to  his  excellent  wife.  But 
they  considered  that  this  seemed  to  be  the  Lord’s 
will,  and  under  the  same  principles,  and  I believe 
with  a greater  sacrifice  of  feeling  than  they  had 
made  on  leaving  the  United  States,  they  now  pre- 
pared for  their  voyage  homeward.  Our  house  in 
Howrah  was  given  up,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pearce 
again  kindly  received  our  afflicted  friends  as  their 
guests.  Passages  were  taken  for  them  in  the  ship 
Edward,  for  Philadelphia ; a few  more  weeks  soon 
passed  away,  and  on  the  23d  of  July  they  went  on 
board.  The  ship  had  been  delayed  in  her  departure, 
and  during  the  last  week  or  two,  Mr.  Reed  seemed 
to  become  feebler  every  day,  so  that  we  were  inclined 
to  doubt  about  his  attempting  so  long  a voyage.  His 
kind  medical  adviser,  however,  still  recommended 
the  change,  and  all  the  arrangements  having  been 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA. 


67 


completed,  they  did  not  deem  it  expedient  to  remain. 
Thus  was  our  little  company  a second  time  visited 
with  most  severe  dispensations.  The  general  pros- 
pects of  our  mission  continued  to  be  favorable,  but 
what  with  bereavement,  the  loss  of  my  companions, 
and  my  own  health  far  from  good,  the  long  and  soli- 
tary journey  to  Lodiana  appeared  to  me  exceedingly 
disheartening.  My  own  discouragements,  however, 
were  light  when  compared  with  my  beloved  mis- 
sionary brother’s  mournful  lot.  His  hopes  were  all 
disappointed,  his  plans  all  set  aside,  his  fervent  desire 
of  usefulness  to  those  poor  heathens  not  granted — - 
I do  not  say,  not  accepted  nor  rewarded.  For  He, 
whose  eye  saw  his  servant’s  purpose  to  assist  in 
building  the  spiritual  temple,  would  in  his  case,  as  in 
that  of  David,  accept  the  desire  and  vouchsafe  a 
gracious  reward.  It  is  not  what  our  hands  perform 
that  chiefly  receives  his  favor,  but  what  our  hearts, 
influenced  by  his  grace,  devise  and  desire  to  accom- 
plish. And  if  this  dispensation  appeared  as  dark  as 
it  was  severe  to  us  all,  yet  we  were  assured  that 
what  we  knew  not  then  we  should  know  hereafter, 
and  that  we  should  yet  praise  God  for  all  his  dispen- 
sations towards  ourselves  and  towards  his  cause. 
Thus  in  faith  we  parted,  no  more  to  meet  on  earth, 
but  with  a firm  hope  of  meeting  in  a better  world. 

Nearly  a year  afterwards  I heard  of  the  death  of 
Mr.  Reed,  on  the  12th  of  August,  about  three  weeks 
after  leaving  Calcutta.  He  continued  to  enjoy  a 
calm  and  steady  peace  until  the  last,  and  then 
resigned  his  spirit  into  his  Saviour’s  arms.  He  was 


68 


EVENTS  AT  CALCUTTA* 


a man  of  respectable  talents,  great  perseverance, 
and  excellent  judgment.  These  traits,  united  with 
the  perfect  sincerity  of  his  Christian  character,  and 
the  entire  devotion  of  all  his  powers  and  aims  to  his 
Lord’s  service,  would  have  made  him  a most  valuable 
minister  of  the  gospel  either  at  home  or  abroad,  and 
seemed  to  fit  him  for  eminent  service  in  the  mission- 
ary field.  But  the  Master  whom  he  served  had  work 
for  him  in  a higher  sphere  of  duty  and  enjoyment. 


JOURNEY  tO  LOD1ANA. 


69 


CHAPTER  VI. 

JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 

Native  boats— Serampore — Dangers  of  “ tracking’ —Numerous  towns 
—Boat  wrecked— Berhampore — Moorshedabad. 

While  my  missionary  companions  were  preparing 
for  their  voyage  by  sea,  I had  been  getting  ready  for 
a hardly  less  tedious  voyage  up  the  Ganges  ; and 
shortly  after  our  parting  on  the  Edward,  I went  on 
board  a native  boat.  While  they  were  going  down 
the  river,  oppressed,  I doubt  not,  with  deeply  sor- 
rowful feelings,  I was  slowly  making  my  way  up  the 
same  river  with  no  other  companions  than  natives, 
and  with  a journey  of  twelve  hundred  miles  before 
me,  amongst  a strange  and  heathen  people.  Under 
these  circumstances,  and  at  other  times,  I was  made 
to  feel  that  the  trials  of  missionary  life  are  often 
chiefly  those  of  the  mind.  It  is  not  the  privation  of 
the  comforts  of  home,  nor  the  outward  hardships  of 
his  lot  in  his  new  sphere  of  life,  but  it  is  mainly  the 
separation  from  friends,  the  loss  of  social  and  Chris- 
tian privileges,  the  thoughts  and  longings  of  the  mind 
for  what  must  be  foregone;  the  thousand  visions  of 
the  imagination,  by  day  and  by  night,  of  what  is  far 


70 


journey  to  lodiana  : 


distant  and  never  again  to  be  seen — it  is  chiefly  these 
things  that  are  trying  to  bear.  But  trials  can  be 
supported  with  cheerfulness,  if  we  are  in  the  path  of 
duty.  I could  not  look  in  any  direction  without 
seeing  multitudes  of  people  “ without  God,  and  with- 
out hope  in  the  world,”  through  our  Lord  and  Savi- 
our, Jesus  Christ.  I could  not  receive  the  Sacred 
Scriptures  as  the  guide  of  my  own  faith,  and  the 
means  of  my  own  hope  of  eternal  life,  without  at  the 
same  time  believing  a knowledge  of  them  to  be  equally 
necessary  to  the  dark-minded  people  around  me  ; 
nor  could  I doubt  the  solemn  obligation  resting  on  all 
Christians,  to  use  all  proper  means  for  making  known 
the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  every  creature. 
Here  then  was  a work  to  be  done,  of  the  most  sacred 
character,  by  which  the  weightiest  interests  of  the 
souls  of  men  would  be  affected  ; and  if  the  Saviour’s 
spirit,  not  less  than  his  command,  but  moved  me  to 
take  part  in  that  work,  surely  I could  not  doubt  that 
all  temporal  and  earthly  sacrifices  should  readily  be 
made,  in  order  to  fidelity  and  success  in  so  holy  a 
calling.  These  were  the  circumstances,  of  all 
others,  in  which  a minister  of  the  Gospel  might 
humbly  hope  for  the  fulfilment  of  our  Lord's  promise, 
“ Lo,  I am  with  you  always.” — I could  not  hesitate, 
therefore,  to  go  forward. 

There  are  three  modes  of  travelling  in  India  : by 
the  rivers  in  boats,  or  on  land  with  tents,  or  in 
palankeens.  Before  the  introduction  of  steamers, 
which  are  but  partially  used,  however,  on  the  India 
rivers,  the  only  mode  of  expeditious  travelling  was  in 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


71 


a palankeen,  carried  by  men,  having  relays  stationed, 
by  a previous  arrangement,  at  certain  stages,  usually 
about  ten  miles  apart.  If  the  traveller  takes  his  rest 
in  his  palankeen,  and  proceeds  by  night  as  well  as  by 
day,  he  may  make  about  one  hundred  miles  in  the 
twenty-four  hours.  It  is  a very  irksome  way  of  tra- 
velling, and  if  he  have  much  luggage,  which  he 
wishes  to  keep  under  his  eye,  this  mode  cannot  be 
chosen.  Travelling  with  tents,  during  the  cold  sea- 
son, is  a pleasant  way  of  making  a journey,  though 
a tedious  one.  From  ten  to  fifteen  miles  a day  is  the 
usual  distance  of  each  stage.  I determined  to  pro- 
ceed by  the  river  in  the  kind  of  boat  commonly  taken 
by  European  travellers,  called  a budgerow  ; and  at 
the  recommendation  of  others,  I procured  a smaller 
boat  to  accompany  the  budgerow,  chiefly  as  a freight 
boat,  but  to  serve  also  as  the  kitchen  of  our  party. 
This  smaller  boat  proved  unnecessary  and  inconve- 
nient, while  it  added  to  the  expense.  These  boats 
are  of  a half  round  bottom,  without  a keel,  rather 
wide  towards  the  stern,  and  tapering  to  a point  in 
front.  They  have  a cabin  over  the  after-part,  with 
a flat  roof,  on  which  the  boatmen  sleep  at  night,  and 
work  the  boat  much  of  the  time  by  day,  particularly 
in  poling  or  sailing.  A single  mast  stands  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  the  boat,  just  forward  of  the  cabin ; 
and  oars  are  fastened  to  the  long  narrowing  deck 
before  the  mast,  but  are  seldom  used.  They  carry 
no  ballast,  and  the  lading  is  so  placed  as  to  be  above 
the  water-line ; being  thus  top-heavy,  there  is  con- 
stant danger  of  being  overturned. 


72 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  : 


These  remarks  will  aid  the  reader  in  understand- 
ing some  accounts  of  this  river  journey,  which  were 
made  after  reaching  its  end,  from  rough  notes  taken 
down  on  the  way. 

July  25,  1834. — Having  engaged  a twelve-oared 
budgerow,  and  another  native  boat  for  the  servants 
to  cook  on,  and  for  part  of  the  luggage,  I had  expected 
to  start  early  this  morning  on  the  journey  to  Lodiana. 
Bishop  Heber  speaks  of  “ two  hours’  squabbling”  with 
the  boat  people,  when  he  was  setting  out  on  his  tour 
of  visitation.  I found  some  trouble  both  with  the 
budgerow  people  and  the  freight  or  cook-boatmen. 
The  former  refused  to  prepare  their  meals  on  the 
boat,  insisting  on  being  permitted  to  cook  on  the 
budgerow — which,  from  the  nature  of  the  ingredi- 
ents used  by  them,  and  from  the  smoke,  would  have 
been  very  disagreeable.  After  they  found  that  this 
point  could  not  be  gained,  which,  however,  they  did 
not  yield  until  the  matter  was  carried  before  the 
agents  from  whom  I had  hired  the  boats,  then  the 
people  of  the  other  boat  set  up  a great  jabbering 
about  the  place  in  their  boat  which  should  be  assigned 
to  the  budgerow  people  for  cooking.  The  ostensible 
ground  of  the  difficulty  in  both  cases  was  the  fear  of 
losing  caste ; which  was  merely  a pretext,  the  true 
reason  being  a regard  to  their  own  convenience. 
The  evils  of  caste  in  this  country  are  visible  in  a 
thousand  forms.  Here  is  an  example.  Each  caste 
must  cook  by  itself  and  eat  by  itself.  We  have  now 
three  places  for  cooking  on  the  freight  boat ; one  for 
me,  at  which  also  the  servants  cook  ; and  one  each 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


73 


for  the  crews  of  the  two  boats.  One  thing  was  ob- 
vious in  these  disputes,  that  mild  firmness  in  our  in- 
tercourse with  these  poor  natives  is  quite  important. 
I believe  they  entertain  more  respect  for  me  now, 
than  if  I had  yielded  to  all  their  demands.  We 
started  with  the  tide ; but  made  no  progress,  as  the 
wind  was  strongly  against  us,  and  were  obliged  to 
“ come  to,”  after  two  or  three  hours  of  hard  work. 

July  26. — We  started  again  with  the  tide  about 
three  P.  M.,  but  did  not  make  much  progress,  moor- 
ing a few  miles  above  Chitpur — five  or  six  miles’  dis- 
tance. The  boatmen  seem  a strong,  active  set  of 
young  men ; and  are  thus  far  disposed  to  be  very 
obliging.  But  they  are  very  ready  to  take  every 
opportunity  of  imposing  on  the  ignorance  or  weak- 
ness of  the  “ Sahib.”  Two  incidents  of  this  kind 
occurred  to-day.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Manjhi  or 
headman,  came  with  great  respect  to  ask  for  twenty 
rupees,  to  be  repaid  at  Cawnpore.  He  knew  very 
well  that  his  wages  were  to  be  paid  by  the  agents, 
not  by  me,  and  therefore  wished  me  to  lend  him  the 
money.  But  I happened  to  know,  that  if  he  got 
possession  of  any  sum,  however  small,  I should  have 
much  trouble,  and  little  hope  of  getting  it  back 
again  ; and  so  declined  granting  his  request.  Soon 
after,  one  of  the  men  came  to  beg  a rupee,  telling  me 
that  it  was  dusturi,  customary.  Again  I happened 
to  know  better.  It  is  recommended  to  make  them 
occasionally  a present  of  a basket  of  fish,  which 
gratifies  them  more  than  the  money  paid  for  the  fish. 

July  27. — We  started  early,  hoping  to  reach  Se- 


74 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA : 


rampore  by  sun-rise.  Serampore  is  a small  Danish 
settlement,  about  fifteen  miles  above  Calcutta,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Hoogley.  It  has  more  of  a 
European  appearance  than  most  towns  in  India,  and 
stretches  nearly  a mile  along  the  river’s  bank,  but  is 
of  no  great  breadth.  Everything  now  wears  the 
aspect  of  decay ; though  formerly  it  was  a place  of 
considerable  importance. 

The  Serampore  Baptists  are  known  among  all  the 
churches,  as  the  earliest  missionaries  to  this  part  of 
India,  and  as  formerly  extensively  engaged  in  trans- 
lating and  publishing  the  Scriptures.  It  is  any- 
thing but  agreeable  to  have  to  add,  that  the  operations 
of  this  Society  seem  to  be  on  the  decline,  as  well  as 
the  town  in  which  its  head-quarters  are  established. 
It  is  ascribed  partly  to  the  want  of  funds.  At  Se- 
rampore there  are  three  European  ministers,  includ- 
ing Dr.  Marshman  ; and  there  are  some  other  Euro- 
peans connected  with  the  press.  The  former  are 
occupied  partly  with  a kind  of  College,  to  prepare 
young  men  for  the  missionary  service.  There  is  a 
fine  college  edifice,  and  a good  collection  of  books  ; 
but  not  many  students.  A number  of  the  mission- 
aries employed  by  this  Society  received  their  instruc- 
tion here.  If  I have  been  correctly  informed,  the 
greater  part  of  the  Serampore  missionaries,  at  the 
subordinate  stations,  are  East-Indians ; good  men, 
and,  from  their  intimate  knowledge  of  the  native 
language,  and  their  ability  to  endure  the  heat  of  the 
climate,  well  adapted  for  usefulness.  I saw  but  two 
of  these  missionaries,  who  appeared  to  be  excellent 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


75 


men.  Their  usefulness,  however,  would  be  greatly- 
promoted  by  their  spending  some  time  in  a Christian 
country,  such  as  England  or  the  United  States,  while 
pursuing  their  studies.  It  is  difficult  for  those  who 
have  been  born  and  brought  up  in  a heathen  coun- 
try, even  though  under  the  best  auspices,  to  form 
those  clear  and  enlarged  conceptions  of  the  nature 
and  advantages  of  Christianity,  and  of  civilization 
in  general,  which  a residence  in  a Christian  land 
would  almost  certainly  afford  opportunities  of  form- 
ing. I do  not  mean  to  say,  that  some  of  the  mission- 
aries of  this  class  are  not  equal  or  superior  to  some 
European  missionaries  ; but  only  that  the  former 
would  be  much  benefited  by  enjoying  the  advan- 
tages of  the  latter.  One  of  the  Church  Society’s  mis- 
sionaries is  an  East-Indian,  who  had  the  advantages 
of  a residence  for  some  time  in  England  ; and  he  is 
now  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  efficient  mission- 
aries in  the  Presidency.  The  Serampore  mission- 
aries have  English  services  on  the  Sabbath,  at  two 
or  three  European  stations  not  many  miles  distant  ; 
and  they  have  also  the  superintendence  and  direction 
of  the  various  branches  of  the  Serampore  mission. 
Dr.  Marshman  is  now  an  aged  man.  He  is  almost 
the  only  aged  missionary  I know,  and  stands  like  a 
venerable  oak  in  the  forest. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Barrackpore, 
a large  Military  Village,  where  the  native  soldiers 
(called  Sepoys,  from  the  word  Sipahi — a soldier) 
attached  to  the  Presidency-Division  of  the  army, 
have  their  quarters.  Sepoys  form  much  the  great- 


76 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA: 


est  part  of  the  British  army  in  India.  They  are 
always  commanded  by  English  officers,  and  make 
excellent  soldiers.  At  Barrackpore,  the  Governor- 
General  has  a country  residence.  There  is  a small 
church  also,  and  a chaplain. 

July  28. — We  started  again  in  the  clear  moonlight 
about  three  o’clock  A.  M.,  and  in  the  early  part  of 
the  afternoon  reached  Chinsurah,  twenty-two  miles 
by  water.  The  boatmen  “tracked”  a good  part  of 
the  way,  that  is,  six  or  seven  men  -went  on  shore, 
and,  pulling  with  a long  rope,  drew  the  boat  along  at 
the  rate  of  about  two  miles  an  hour.  It  is  hard 
work ; as  the  poor  fellows  have  to  cross  nullahs,  or 
arms  of  the  river,  frequently  so  deep  as  to  require 
them  to  swim,  and  to  walk  often  knee-deep  in  mud, 
all  the  time  exposed  to  a hot  sun.  They  relieve 
each  other  every  hour  by  twos;  that  is,  two  of  the 
men  from  on  board  the  boat  take  the  place  of  two 
who  have  been  longest  on  shore.  To  keep  their 
rope  from  becoming  entangled  by  the  bushes,  and 
from  dragging  heavily  through  the  water,  they  make 
it  fast,  about  fifteen  feet  above  the  deck,  to  the  mast. 
As  a considerable  part  of  the  vessel  in  the  water  is 
before  the  mast  to  which  the  rope  is  attached,  and  as 
the  rudder  is  too  small  to  be  of  much  use,  when  the 
current  happens  to  be  very  strong,  there  is  great 
danger  that  the  prow  will  be  forced  to  one  side  or 
to  the  other ; and  then  there  is  still  greater  danger 
that  the  boat  will  be  pulled  by  the  men  at  the  rope 
on  its  “ beam-ends,”  as  the  sailors  say,  on  its  side, 
and  go  down  to  the  bottom.  I describe  the  process 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


77 


minutely  ; for  my  most  frequent  dangers,  and  some 
of  the  greatest,  were  from  this  source.  In  many 
places,  the  current  dashes  along  with  immense  force 
at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  miles  an  hour.  The 
“ trackers,”  bent  almost  to  the  ground,  strain  every 
muscle  to  pull  the  boat.  The  prow  suddenly  veers 
from  the  right  direction ; the  boat  is  already  half  on 
its  side ; all  on  board  sing  out  as  loudly  as  possible 
to  the  men  on  shore  to  slacken  the  rope  ; and,  if 
they  hear  in  time,  all  may  be  well  enough ; but  if 
not,  the  danger  is  very  imminent  that  everything 
will  be  lost,  except  the  lives  of  the  reckless  boat- 
people,  who  seem  to  be  an  almost  amphibious  race. 
It  would  be  no  easy  matter  to  drown  one  of  them. 
When  the  wind  is  not  favorable,  “ tracking”  is  the 
common  mode  of  getting  along  ; as  they  hardly  ever 
make  use  of  their  long  awkward  oars.  Of  course, 
it  is  a very  tedious  mode  of  travelling.  When  the 
wind  is  favorable,  they  spread  sail,  contriving  to 
fasten  two  or  three  sails,  one  above  another,  to  the 
single  mast  in  the  centre  of  the  boat.  A strong  wind 
will  carry  the  boat  against  the  current  from  twenty 
to  thirty  miles  a day  ; the  distance  varying  as  the 
channel  may  accord  with  the  direction  of  the  wind. 
From  June  to  October,  the  wind  usually  blows  from 
the  south-east,  though  not  without  intervals  of  con- 
trary winds,  or  of  no  wind  at  all.  From  October  to 
March,  the  wind  is  from  the  north-west. 

A few  miles  above  Serampore  is  Chandernagore, 
a French  settlement.  The  town  is  not  very  large, 
and  is  not  prosperous ; though  formerly  it  was  a 


78 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA . 


place  of  some  importance.  The  tri-colored  flag  was 
flying,  and  guns  were  fired  every  half  hour,  the  day 
I passed — I suppose  in  commemoration  of  the  “ three 
days’  revolution”  in  1830.  Chinsurah  was  originally 
a Dutch  settlement.  It  is  not  a place  of  much  com- 
merce now.  The  situation  of  these  three  foreign 
settlements — Serampore,  Chandernagore,  and  Chin- 
surah— until  recently,  in  the  midst  of  the  British 
territory,  is  rather  singular.  They  are  regarded  by 
the  English  authorities,  I believe,  as  islands,  and  the 
same  general  policy  is  pursued  towards  them  that 
would  be  pursued  towards  Danish,  French,  and 
Dutch  Islands  in  the  ocean.  Each  place  has  its  own 
Governor  appointed  by  its  respective  king.  But 
since  Calcutta  has  engrossed  the  commerce  of  this 
part  of  India,  the  duties  of  these  Governors  are 
chiefly  to  administer  the  local  government  of  their 
respective  towns,  a very  insignificant  sphere  of 
operation.  At  Chinsurah  there  is  one  missionary 
under  the  London  Missionary  Society,  who  has  the 
charge  of  several  schools. 

July  29. — We  started  about  five  o’clock,  and  after 
toiling  hard  for  twelve  hours,  most  of  the  time  at 
the  rope,  the  men  moored  at  a small  village  of  fif- 
teen or  twenty  cottages.  This  village  is  in  the 
midst  of  the  jungle,  or  waste,  uncultivated  land ; 
which  is  here  covered  chiefly  with  tall,  rank  grass. 
The  people  are  cowherds  ; and  not  one  of  them  can 
read.  By  way  of  excuse,  one  of  them  told  me  they 
were  Bengalis,  and  there  were  no  Bengali  books. 
He  was  probably  ignorant  enough  not  to  know  any 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


79 


better.  We  made  about  twenty  miles.  The  banks 
of  the  river  are  becoming  higher,  and  I even  saw  an 
elevation  like  a very  low  hill.  Cocoa-nut  trees  are 
not  numerous.  Heretofore,  the  banks  of  the  river, 
when  not  cultivated,  are  covered  with  a very  dense, 
luxurious  growth  of  underwood,  among  which  the 
cocoa-nut,  raising  its  tall  straight  trunk  without 
limb  or  leaf,  except  the  tuft  of  long  leaves  at  the 
top,  forms  a very  prominent  object. 

I saw  a few  English-looking  houses  to-day,  occu- 
pied by  indigo-planters  ; and  passed  one  large  church, 
much  like  some  of  the  churches  in  Madeira.  It  was 
at  Bandell,  an  old  Portuguese  town,  where,  it  is  said, 
there  is  also  a monastery.  Hoogley  is  close  by 
Bandell,  and  is  an  ancient  native  town,  where  for- 
merly the  French,  Dutch,  Portuguese,  and  Danes, 
had  each  a factory.  In  1632,  the  first  serious  quar- 
rels between  the  Moguls  and  Europeans  occurred  at 
this  town.  The  Portuguese  lost  sixty-four  large 
ships  (in  one  of  which  were  two  thousand  persons, 
who,  with  all  their  property,  were  blown  up),  fifty 
grabs,  and  nearly  two  hundred  sloops.  The  river  at 
that  time  must  have  been  more  favorable  for  naviga- 
tion than  it  is  at  present.  Such  a fleet  could  not 
now  come  thus  far  up  the  river.  The  town  of 
Hoogley  is  still  large  and  populous ; and  is  prosper- 
ous, being  the  seat  of  considerable  native  trade.  It 
is  an  important  place  for  a missionary  station, 
especially  if  it  could  be  occupied  by  a well  educated 
native  missionary. 

July  30. — We  started  at  five,  and  at  ten  were  not 
5 


80 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA: 


more  than  fifteen  minutes’  walk  from  the  place 
whence  we  set  out,  though  we  had  made  several 
miles.  The  river  makes  a remarkable  bend  at  this 
place.  We  stopped  for  the  night  at  Culna,  a large 
and  prosperous  native  town.  The  Church  Mission- 
ary Society  support  a Catechist  at  this  place,  who 
has  charge  of  a school ; but  he  was  not  at  home. 
By  a large  town,  I mean  a town  of  several  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  It  is  extremely  difficult  to  form  a 
correct  estimate  of  native  population  ; but  Culna 
probably  contains  ten  or  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants. 
As  usual,  I took  some  tracts  to  distribute  during  my 
walk  on  shore.  It  is,  however,  but  a very  small 
proportion  of  these  people  who  are  able  to  read; 
perhaps  not  one  person  out  of  fifty.  I gave  three 
tracts  this  evening  to  different  persons,  who  were 
very  willing  to  receive  them.  One  of  the  men,  a 
Brahman,  soon  came  to  me  for  another  tract,  telling 
me  he  had  given  the  first  one  to  his  “ brother,”  the 
common  phrase  for  friend. 

July  31. — Our  boats  were  moored  this  evening 
just  below  the  junction  of  the  Bhagirathi  and  Jel- 
linghi  rivers — branches  of  the  Ganges,  which  here 
unite  and  form  the  Hoogley.  I find  here  another 
budgerow,  and  numerous  native  boats,  all  waiting  for 
a change  of  wind.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river  is  Nuddea,  a native  town  of  some  size,  which 
was  formerly  the  seat  of  considerable  Brahmanical 
learning  ; though,  at  present,  few  traces  of  it.  are 
said  to  remain.  The  district  of  the  same  name,  in 
1802,  contained,  in  a territory  of  about  three  thou- 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


8] 


sand  square  miles,  upwards  of  eight  hundred  thou- 
sand people.  It  is  supposed  the  number  is  now 
much  greater.  In  the  adjoining  district  of  Burd- 
wan,  the  population  amounted  to  six  hundred  persons, 
on  the  average,  to  a square  mile. 

August  5. — For  two  or  three  days,  including  the 
last  date,  the  wind  was  quite  unfavorable ; so  that 
we  were  obliged  to  lie  to,  without  attempting  to  make 
any  progress.  On  Sunday  the  wind  increased  to  a 
violent  gale,  causing  large  waves  on  the  river,  which 
is  here  deep  and  broad.  We  were  unfortunately 
moored  to  the  lee-shore ; so  that  the  wind  both 
dashed  the  boats  against  the  shore,  and  the  waves 
against  the  boats.  It  soon  became  evident  that  we 
should  have  difficulty  to  save  the  boats  from  being 
wrecked.  In  the  other  budgerow  were  a gentleman, 
his  wife,  and  their  children.  The  lady  becoming 
alarmed,  insisted  on  leaving  the  boat,  arid  it  was  well 
they  did  so,  for  it  sank  under  the  fury  of  the  waves 
in  a few  minutes  after  they  left  it.  A number  of 
native  vessels,  and  my  freight  boat,  in  which  were 
some  large  boxes  of  things,  shared  the  same  fate.  I 
had  most  of  the  valuable  articles  taken  out  of  the 
budgerow,  and  with  great  difficulty  it  was  just 
saved  ; but  as  the  rain  was  pouring  down  in  torrents, 
and  the  wind  was  very  high,  the  books  were  much 
injured,  the  other  articles  also  damaged  more  or  less, 
and  I got,  of  course,  after  three  hours’  hard  work 
in  the  rain,  completely  tired  and  wet. 

An  English  family  happened  to  reside  in  the 


82 


JOUKNEY  TO  LODI  AN  A : 


neighborhood,  who  received  us  kindly,  and  provided 
dry  clothing,  &c. — This  was  one  of  two  special 
circumstances,  deserving  sincere  gratitude.  The 
prejudices  of  the  natives  prevent  their  receiving 
foreigners  into  their  houses,  and  there  are  very  few 
English  families  in  this  section  of  the  country — not 
one  in  every  twenty  miles.  The  exposure  might 
have  proved  injurious,  if  it  had  been  necessary  to 
remain  unsheltered,  in  wet  clothes,  during  the  dread- 
ful stormy  night  which  succeeded.  The  other  cause 
of  thankfulness  was  that  the  gale  did  not  come  on 
during  the  night,  as  in  that  case  everything  would 
have  been  lost,  and  probably  our  lives  also.  The 
gale  was  very  general,  and  occasioned  great  loss  of 
property,  and  the  loss  of  many  lives.  I hope  to 
recover  the  greater  part  of  my  pecuniary  loss  from 
the  Insurance  Office. 

Travelling  on  this  river  is,  almost  at  every  season 
of  the  year,  attended  with  danger.  The  boats,  even 
those  for  the  accommodation  of  English  people,  as 
budgerows  and  pinnaces,  are  awkwardly  built  on  a 
more  awkward  model,  at  least  the  former  ; the  boat- 
men are  unskilful  and  reckless ; during  the  rains, 
though  you  have  usually  a fine  wind,  yet  you  must 
stem  a strong  current;  at  other  times  you  are  in 
danger  from  north-westers,  &c.  Every  year  many 
boats  are  lost.  I have  heard  of  two  budgerows  being 
entirely  lost  since  I left,  and  I have  several  times 
seen  that  it  was  the  almost  direct  power  of  an  Al- 
mighty hand  that  saved  mine  from  the  same  fate, 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


83 


when  rapid  currents,  contrary  wind,  miserably 
managed  sails,  and  inefficient  boatmen,  seemed  almost 
to  make  certain  such  a result. 

August  6 and  7. — We  arrived  at  Cutwa  on  the 
evening  of  the  6th,  and  were  detained  near  that  town 
all  the  next  day  by  contrary  winds.  Cutwa  is  a 
native  town  of  some  size,  about  seventy-five  miles 
direct  distance  from  Calcutta.  There  is  a Baptist 
missionary  here,  Mr.  Carey,  a son  of  the  late  Rev. 
Dr.  Carey.  There  is  a school  under  the  care  of  Mrs. 
Carey,  and  a small  church  of  native  converts. 

August  9. — We  reached  Berhampore  in  time  to 
spend  the  Sabbath  among  Christians — a great  privi- 
lege. This  town  consists  of  two  parts,  as  do  the 
most  of  the  towns  where  the  English  have  stations  ; 
the  one  for  European  residents,  the  other  for  natives. 
These  two  classes  are  seldom  found  dwelling  together, 
or  in  the  same  street.  The  reason  is,  that  their 
mode  of  living,  kind  of  houses,  customs,  &c.,  are  so 
widely  different,  that  each  class  finds  it  more  conve- 
nient to  have  quarters  of  its  own.  I mention  this 
circumstance,  because  I am  inclined  to  think  it  has 
some  bearing  on  the  usefulness  of  missionaries. 
Dwelling  usually  in  the  same  parts  of  the  station 
with  their  countrymen,  they  are  perhaps  too  much 
identified  with  them  ; and  less  opportunity  is  afforded 
to  the  natives  to  profit  by  their  example,  silently 
operating  under  continued  observation.  There  is 
probably,  however,  less  truth  in  this  remark  at  Ber- 
hampore than  at  most  stations,  as  the  missionaries 
reside  near  the  native  part  of  the  town.  In  general, 


81 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA : 


also,  it  should  be  stated,  that  the  missionaries  have 
really  little  choice  about  the  matter ; as  it  is  seldom 
practicable  to  obtain  a house  in  the  native  part  of 
the  town  which  would  afford  any  accommodation  for 
an  English  family.  Indeed,  if  it  were  practicable,  it 
might  in  many  cases  be  inexpedient,  owing  to  the 
danger  of  injury  to  health  from  the  crowded,  dirty, 
narrow  streets,  which  characterize  most  native 
towns.  Yet,  where  a house  at  all  suitable  and  eli- 
gible could  be  procured,  the  advantages  of  intercourse 
and  of  example  would  be  greater,  and  should  never 
be  overlooked.  Berhampore  is  a military  station, 
where,  in  addition  to  a regiment  of  Sepoys,  there  is 
a regiment  of  European  soldiers,  probably  eight 
hundred  or  one  thousand  men. 

The  London  Missionary  Society  has  two  mission- 
aries at  this  place;  who  find  employment  in  the 
native  town,  which  is  not  very  large,  and  in  tours 
through  the  towns  and  villages  in  the  country  around. 
They  have  two  or  three  schools,  partly  under  the  care 
of  their  wives,  for  teaching  the  elementary  branches 
of  the  native  language  ; and  there  is  a small  orphan 
asylum.  One  of  the  missionaries  has  an  English 
service,  on  Sabbath  evening,  in  a neat  chapel.  There 
are  no  native  converts  at  present,  or  at  most  but 
two  or  three.  This  mission  was  commenced  about 
ten  or  twelve  years  ago. — On  Sabbath,  I went  with 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Hill  into  the  bazar,  whither  he  usually 
goes  every  day  to  make  known  the  Gospel.  A bazar 
corresponds  to  the  streets  of  our  cities  and  towns 
occupied  by  stores  and  shops.  The  part  of  the 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


85 


building  next  to  the  street  is  a kind  of  open  shop,  in . 
which  various  commodities,  commonly  of  but  little 
aggregate  value,  are  exposed  to  sale.  During  busi- 
ness hours,  the  bazars  are  generally  full  of  people, 
buying  and  selling.  Mr.  Hill  took  his  station  at  one 
side  of  one  of  the  principal  streets,  under  the  shade 
of  a house ; and,  addressing  a native  who  seemed  to 
have  little  to  do,  he  began  to  read  a tract  aloud. 
Seeing  a “ Sahib”  thus  employed,  numbers  of  those 
who  were  passing  to  and  fro,  stopped  to  listen, 
until  we  were  surrounded  by  forty  or  fifty  people — 
men,  women  of  the  lower  classes,  and  boys..  Some 
stopped  for  a few  minutes,  and  then  pursued  their 
way.  Others  stayed  longer,  and  some  continued  all 
the  time.  Some  seemed  to  listen  from  curiosity ; 
some  with  seriousness  ; all  respectfully.  After  read- 
ing a few  pages,  Mr.  Hill  made  a short  address,  to 
which  occasionally  some  gave  assent ; and  then  he 
distributed  a small  bundle  of  tracts,  which  all  seemed 
very  eager  to  obtain.  Several  were  disappointed. 
The  scene  was  one  of  much  interest  to  me. 

August  12. — After  receiving  much  kindness  from 
the  missionary  brethren  and  other  Christian  friends, 

I started  from  Berhampore  and  reached  Moorsheda- 
bad.  This  city  was  formerly  the  capital  of  Bengal ; 
and  is  still  a very  large  place,  stretching  five  or  six 
miles  along  the  east  shore  of  the  river.  It  is,  how- 
ever, greatly  on  the  decline.  Multitudes  of  the  mud 
hovels  are  going  to  ruin,  a process  which  in  this  cli- 
mate is  very  rapid,  where  the  materials  are  so 
perishable.  There  are  few  good  buildings  in  Moor- 


86 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA : 


shedabad,  and  scarcely  any  now  building.  A very 
extensive  palace,  which  is  now  building  for  the  na- 
bob, is  almost  the  only  new  public  edifice  I saw. 
There  are  a number  of  temples  and  mosques ; but 
they  wear  the  aspect  of  neglect  and  decay.  The 
nabob  of  Bengal,  who  resides  here,  receives  a large 
pension  from  the  Company,  instead  of  the  sovereignty 
to  which,  under  native  rule,  he  would  have  been 
heir.  He  is  said  to  be  a young  man  of  exceedingly 
dissipated  habits ; so  that  his  influence  amongst  his 
countrymen  is  very  injurious.  He  takes  little  inte- 
rest in  political  matters,  and  is  anxious  apparently 
to  live  only  a luxurious,  sensual  life. 

Moorshedabad  is  the  seat  of  considerable  native 
trade ; and,  in  this  neighborhood,  it  is  said  a greater 
amount  of  silk  is  woven  into  different  fabrics  than  at 
any  other  place.  It  is  also  the  head-quarters  of  a 
circuit  court ; but  the  magistrates  reside  at  Berham- 
pore,  nine  miles  below.  The  London  Missionary 
Society  has  recently  sent  a Catechist  to  this  place  ; 
but  no  particular  results  are  yet  manifest  from  his 
efforts.  The  missionaries  at  Berhampore  occasion- 
ally visit  it.  It  seems  to  require  much  greater  atten- 
tion from  the  Christian  world  than  it  has  yet  received. 
But  this  is  too  true  of  many  cities  in  India.  A large 
proportion  of  the  people  of  this  place  are  Mussulmans. 

August  16. — Our  progress  has  been  very  slow, 
owing  to  light  winds,  which  afforded  little  aid  in 
stemming  the  rapid  current  of  the  river.  While 
slowly  toiling  along  this  afternoon,  two  of  the  nabob’s 
pleasure  boats  passed  us.  They  are  of  a singular 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


87 


structure,  very  long,  very  narrow,  built  almost  on 
the  model  of  a large  Indian  canoe  ; but  with  very 
high  prow  and  stern,  which  were  richly  ornamented. 
A highly  finished  awning  was  spread  over  the  middle 
of  the  boats,  affording  a screen  for  two  or  three  per- 
sons from  the  sun.  The  rest  of  the  boats,  fore  and 
aft,  was  occupied  by  rowers,  to  the  number  of  thirty 
or  forty  to  each  boat.  These  rowers  kept  admirable 
time ; as  they  lifted  their  paddles  out  of  the  water, 
quickly  performed  a circuit  with  them  through  the 
air,  raising  them  above  their  heads,  and  then  all  at 
the  same  moment  striking  them  into  the  water  again  ; 
thus  propelling  the  boat  seven  or  eight  miles  an  hour 
against  the  current.  They  formed  a great  contrast 
to  the  awkward  budgerow,  slowly  moving  along  the 
shore. 

To-day  I passed  Jungipore,  the  greatest  silk  station 
of  the  East  India  Company.  Hamilton  remarks, 
that  “the  buildings  were  erected  here  in  1773,  and 
in  1803  about  three  hundred  thousand  persons  were 
employed.  They  use  the  Italian  method  of  spinning. 
The  mulberry  tree  is  the  oriental ; it  is  dwarfish, 
and  the  leaves  but  indifferent ; to  which  is  attributed 
a degeneracy  in  the  breeds  that  have  been  introducd 
from  foreign  countries.” 

August  17,  Lord’s  Day. — We  lay  to,  at  a native 
village,  a short  distance  above  Jungipore.  A num- 
ber of  people,  hearing  that  there  was  a “ Padre 
Sahib”  who  gave  away  tracts,  came  to  ask  for  them  ; 
and  one  was  given  probably  to  nearly  every  person 
in  the  town  who  was  able  to  read.  A Brahman  set 

5* 


88 


JOUKNEY  TO  LOD1ANA  ! 


the  example,  though  at  first  evidently  at  the  expense 
of  some  struggles  between  his  pride  and  his  curiosity  ; 
but  afterwards  he  brought  others  of  the  same  caste. 
It  is  a cause  of  thankfulness  that  they  are  willing  to 
receive  and  to  read  our  religious  books.  Some  very 
pleasing  boys  interested  me  much.  They  belonged 
to  families  of  the  higher  classes  ; had  fine,  animated, 
intelligent  countenances ; and  were  much  gratified 
by  a tract  to  each  one  ; which  they  read  with  great 
fluency,  and  which  they  forthwith  ran  to  show  to 
their  parents.  They  reminded  me  of  some  of  my 
former  Sunday  School  scholars.  Would  that  these 
heathen  boys  were  as  highly  favored ! 

From  this  place  there  is  a distant  view  of  the  Raj- 
mahal  Hills,  the  sight  of  which  was  very  gi’ateful  to 
the  eye,  wearied  with  the  sameness  of  the  dead  level 
country  of  Bengal.  From  this  village  our  next  day’s 
sail  was  over  what  Bishop  Heber  would  call  “ a 
miserable  drowned  country.”  Frequently  nothing 
was  to  be  seen  in  any  direction  but  water,  with  the 
exception  of  an  occasional  village  or  slightly  elevated 
ground,  and  perhaps  the  tops  of  a few  straggling 
trees.  In  such  places  the  current  is  very  slow ; as 
its  force  is  lost  in  the  dispersion  of  the  overflowing 
waters.  The  water  of  the  Ganges,  and  of  course,  of 
all  its  outlets,  is  extremely  muddy.  The  clayey 
sediment  held  in  solution  during  the  rainy  season  is 
very  large.  Much  of  this  sediment  is  deposited  on 
the  land  which  is  overflowed,  and  forms  a very  rich 
manure.  After  the  waters  subside,  and  under  a hot 
sun,  in  this  soil  the  extensive  crops  of  rice  and  dal 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


89 


luxuriate  with  great  delight,  at  least  to  the  owners. 
We  made  fast,  for  the  night,  to  a tree  in  the  midst 
of  the  waters,  and  found,  the  next  morning,  that  the 
river  had  subsided  a little  during  the  night. 


90 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  : 


CHAPTER  VII. 

VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES  CONTINUED. 

The  great  Ganges — Raj-mahal  Hills — Mussulmans  and  Hindus  com- 
pared— Anecdote  of  Caste — Danger  from  a gale — Bhagulpore — 
Spirit  of  lying — Native  boatmen — Monghir—  Patna — Dinapore. 

August  19. — After  passing  through  a narrow  chan- 
nel, with  lofty  trees  on  each  shore,  and  then  for  a few 
miles  through  an  open  country,  we  entered  on  the 
Burra  Gunga  of  the  natives,  the  main  branch  of  the 
Ganges.  The  river  is  here,  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  from  three  to  four  miles  wide,  and  presents 
truly  a grand  appearance.  The  idea  of  irresistible 
power  is  strongly  impressed  on  the  mind  of  the 
observer.  The  mighty  river  rolls  along  in  majesty, 
rapidly,  but  tranquilly,  as  if  regardless  of  all  the 
world  besides.  It  is  one  of  God’s  greatest  works ; 
and  the  innumerable  native  boats,  which  are  seen 
sailing  close  by  the  shore,  render  the  contrast  be- 
tween his  works  and  the  works  of  man  very  striking. 

The  latter  are  little,  feeble,  and  apparently  in  con- 
stant dread  of  the  overwhelming  power  of  the  river 
in  whose  waters  they  venture  to  sail.  Our  boatmen 
seemed  to  feel  themselves  in  the  presence  of  one  of 
the  Gods  of  their  countrymen  ; but  being  Mussul- 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


91 


mans,  they  only  poured  out  some  water  on  the  prow 
of  the  boat,  and  then  repeated  with  double  energy 
their  usual  prayer  to  “ Allah,  ’la,  ’la  ’la-h.”  I do  not 
wonder  that  the  ignorant  mind  of  the  heathen  should 
become  superstitious  on  beholding  this  vast  body  of 
waters. 

This  may  be  a proper  place  to  introduce  some 
notices  of  a river  whose  sacredness  is  so  great  in 
India,  and  whose  fame  is  so  widely  spread  through 
other  lands.  I take  them  chiefly  from  Hamilton. 
The  course  of  the  Ganges  is  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  great  Himalaya  range  of  mountains.  It  has  been 
traced  to  a short  distance  above  the  place  of  Hindu 
pilgrimage,  Gangoutri.  Two  miles  above  this  place 
is  the  “Cow’s  Mouth,”  about  which  the  natives  have 
various  fables.  It  is  merely  a large  stone  in  the 
middle  of  the  river,  of  which  a part  projects  above 
the  water ; and  with  the  aid  of  a lively  fancy,  may 
be  supposed  to  resemble  the  mouth  of  that  sacred 
animal.  The  pilgrimage  of  Gangoutri  is  considered 
a great  exertion  of  Hindu  devotion  ; and  is  supposed 
to  redeem  the  performer  from  troubles  in  this  world, 
and  to  insure  a happy  transit  through  all  the  trans- 
migrations that  await  him  hereafter.  After  issuing 
from  the  mountains  near  Hurdwar,  Lat.  29°  57', 
Long.  78°  2'  East,  to  the  conflux  with  the  Jumna  at 
Allahabad,  the  first  large  river  that  joins  it,  the  bed 
of  the  Ganges  is  generally  from  a mile  to  one  and  a 
quarter  wide.  From  hence  its  course  becomes  more 
winding,  until  after  receiving  the  Gogra,  the  Soane, 


92 


journey  to  lodiana: 


and  other  smaller  streams,  its  channel  attains  its  full 
width,  which  in  some  parts  is  three  miles  across. 
When  at  the  lowest,  it  is  commonly  about  three 
fourths  of  a mile  in  width.  During  the  rains,  the 
width  is  of  course  greatly  increased ; as  the  Ganges 
rises  about  thirty-two  feet,  and  the  banks  are  low> 
and  the  country  level  for  a great  part  of  its  course ; 
so  that  the  waters  spread  widely.  The  Ganges  ap- 
pears to  owe  its  increase  more  to  the  melting  of  the 
snow  and  the  rains  on  the  mountains,  than  to  the 
rains  which  fall  on  the  plains ; for  it  rises  fifteen 
feet  out  of  thirty-two  by  the  latter  end  of  June,  and 
the  rainy  season  does  not  fully  begin  in  the  most  of 
the  level  countries  until  about  that  time.  - 

About  two  hundred  miles  from  the  sea  the  Delta 
commences.  The  two  most  western  branches,  the 
Cossimbazar,  or  Bhagirathi,  and  Jellinghi  rivers, 
unite  and  form  the  Hoogley,  the  only  branch  of  the 
Ganges  generally  navigated  by  ships.  That  part  of 
the  Delta  bordering  on  the  sea  is  composed  of  a 
labyrinth  of  rivers  and  creeks,  named  the  Sunder- 
bunds,  which,  including  the  rivers  that  bound  it,  give 
an  expansion  of  two  hundred  miles  to  the  branches 
of  the  Ganges  at  its  junction  with  the  sea.  Its 
whole  length  is  fifteen  hundred  miles  in  a direct  line ; 
its  actual  length  is  much  greater.  By  the  latter  end 
of  July,  all  the  lower  parts  of  Bengal  contiguous  to 
the  Ganges  and  Brahmaputra  are  overflowed,  and 
form  an  inundation  of  more  than  one  hundred  miles 
in  width,  nothing  appearing  but  villages  and  trees. 
At  five  hundred  miles  from  the  sea  the  channel  is 


VOYAGE  ON  T1IE  GANGES. 


93 


thirty-nine  feet  deep  when  the  river  is  at  the  lowest ; 
which  depth  continues  nearly  to  the  sea;  but  the 
outlet  of  the  main  branch  is  obstructed  by  sand-bars 
In  the  dry  season,  the  mean  rate  of  motion  of  the 
current  is  less  than  three  miles  an  hour  ; in  the  wet 
season,  five  or  six ; and,  at  some  places,  seven  or 
eight.  Taking  the  medium  of  the  whole  year,  the 
quantity  of  the  water  discharged  is  nearly  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  thousand  feet  per  second  of  time. 

It  is  only  that  part  of  the  river  which  lies  in  a 
line  between  Gangoutri,  where  its  feeble  stream 
issues  from  the  Himalaya  snows,  to  Saugor  Island 
below  Calcutta,  that  is  particularly  sacred  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Hindu.  The  Hoogley  river,  therefore, 
of  Europeans  is  considered  the  true  Ganges.  Par- 
ticular places  are  esteemed  more  eminently  holy 
than  the  rest ; and  to  these  pilgrims  resort  from  a 
distance,  to  perform  their  ablutions,  and  to  obtain 
the  water  that  is  used  in  their  ceremonies.  The 
chief  of  these  are  the  five  Prayags,  or  holy  junctions 
of  rivers,  of  which  Allahabad  is  the  principal,  and  by 
way  of  distinction  is  named  Prayag.  Including 
these  Prayags,  there  are  nine  especially  holy  places 
on  this  river. 

Having  a moderate  wind,  the  boat-people  were 
anxious  to  go  on  until  a later  hour  than  usual,  there 
being  moonlight,  though  obscured  by  passing  clouds. 
Accordingly,  we  sailed  along  the  edge  of  the  river 
until  after  eight  o’clock.  The  country  seemed  to  be 
extensively  covered  with  water  ; and  where  the 


94 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA : 


land  was  visible,  it  was  so  saturated  with  the  rains 
that  had  fallen  as  to  afford  no  firm  ground  for  mak- 
ing the  boat  fast  for  the  night — which  is  done  by 
means  of  ropes  attached  to  several  stakes  driven  into 
the  ground.  At  last,  the  men  moored  the  boat  at  a 
place  which  they  thought  suitable.  About  mid- 
night, I heard  them  making  a great  noise  ; and  on 
going  out,  found  that  the  fastenings  were  giving  way, 
while  the  wind  had  become  very  high,  and  a densely 
black  cloud  was  threatening  a furious  gale.  No 
time  was  to  be  lost ; and,  with  all  hands  hard  at 
work,  we  got  the  boat  moved  a short  distance  and 
made  fast  at  another  place.  If  the  giving  way  of 
the  moorings  had  not  been  discovered  in  time,  there 
would  have  been  little  hope  of  being  saved.  As  it 
was,  the  danger  was  very  great. 

August  20. — We  approached  Raj-mahal.  The 
range  of  hills  which  bear  this  name  have  been  in 
sight  for  two  or  three  days.  They  resemble  some  of 
the  parallel  ranges  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  and 
their  appearance  is  very  beautiful.  Their  general 
direction  is  southward  from  this  place,  though  inclin- 
ing a good  deal  to  the  east.  Their  range  above  the 
town  of  Raj-mahal  is  quite  to  the  westward  of 
north.  The  river  washes  their  base  from  a consider- 
able distance  above  to  this  town  ; but  soon  afterwards 
its  waters,  as  if  wearied  with  the  fruitless  effort  to 
remove  these  mountains,  roll  away  in  an  easterly 
direction. 

These  hills  are  inhabited  by  a distinct  race  of  peo- 
ple, called  Paharis,  which  simply  means  hill-people. 


VOYAGE  ON  TI1E  CANGES. 


95 


They  are  supposed  by  many  to  be  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants.  They  have  no  idols,  and  pay  a much 
greater  regard  to  truth  than  the  Hindus.  Their 
mode  of  life  is  less  refined  ; their  language  is  differ- 
ent, and  has  not  been  reduced  to  writing.  A Bap- 
tist missionary  from  Munghir  has  made  one  or  two 
excursions  among  them  ; and  speaks  favorably  of 
their  candor  and  willingness  to  listen  to  his  discourses 
concerning  the  true  religion.  Their  number  cannot 
be  very  great.  Raj-mahal  was  formerly  the  resi- 
dence of  royalty,  and  some  old  palaces  still  remain, 
but  in  a state  of  great  decay.  The  present  town 
contains  perhaps  a few  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
people  begin  to  wear  an  appearance  less  effeminate 
than  that  which  characterizes  the  Bengalis. 

AugiLst  21. — We  passed  Sicly  Gully  and  PirPontf 
— both  of  them  places  to  which  the  attention  of  the 
traveller  on  this  river  is  directed  as  possessing 
novelty,  no  small  recommendation  where  everything 
is  marked  by  sameness.  The  former  was  once  a 
celebrated  pass,  commanding  the  entrance  from 
Bahar  into  Bengal.  It  commands  a fine  view  of  the 
hills  and  of  the  river.  Pi'r  Ponti  is  the  name  given 
to  a detached  hill,  on  account  of  a Mussulman  saint, 
Father  or  St.  Ponti,  who  was  buried  there.  There 
is  also  a small  but  rather  neat  Hindu  temple  to  Maha 
Dev,  about  half  way  up  the  hill,  which  is  conspicu- 
ous and  pleasing  in  its  appearance.  It  stands  on 
a little  knoll  jutting  out  from  the  hill,  while  on  each 
side,  below  and  above,  the  deep  green  of  the  dense 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA: 


96 

woods  contrasts  strongly  with  the  white  walls  of 
the  temple. 

It  is  very  common,  especially  in  towns  of  some 
size,  to  see  the  holy  places  of  Hindus  and  Mussul- 
mans thus  immediately  in  contact.  You  see  a tem- 
ple at  one  corner,  and  a mosque  at  the  next.  But, 
in  the  smaller  towns,  it  is  more  common  to  find  each 
class  distinct ; either  all  Mussulmans  or  all  Hindus. 
The  average  proportion  of  Hindus  who  are  fol- 
lowers of  Mohammed  to  those  who  are  pagans,  is 
said  to  be  about  one  to  ten.  The  further  to  the 
northwest  we  go,  the  larger  does  the  proportion  of 
Mussulmans  become.  In  the  “Upper  Provinces,” 
as  they  are  termed,  as  Oude,  Allahabad,  Agra,  Delhi, 
&c.,  I understand  that  the  more  wealthy  and  intel- 
ligent inhabitants  are  generally  Mussulmans.  In  the 
Western,  or  Rajput  Provinces,  Hinduism  is  said 
greatly  to  predominate.  This  is  easily  to  be 
accounted  for  ; as  those  regions  were  never  so 
entirely  subject  to  the  rule  of  the  Patan  and  Mogul 
conquerors  as  were  the  Upper  Provinces.  The  two 
classes,  in  the  Lower  Provinces,  resemble  each  other 
in  ignorance,  in  vice,  and  rigid  adherence  to  caste. 
They  differ  chiefly  in  their  external  mode  of  wor- 
ship; though  among  the  great  mass  of  the  people, 
their  observances  are,  in  both  cases,  an  unintelligible 
round  of  ceremonies,  alike  unmeaning  and  useless. 
The  two  best  things  in  the  Hindu  religion  seem  to  be 
the  ablutions,  or  rather  bathings,  and  the  prohibition 
of  most  kinds  of  animal  food,  regulations  which  are 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


97 


certainly  useful  in  a hot  climate  like  this,  as  they 
secure  a certain  degree  of  cleanliness  and  of  tem- 
perance. These  are  both  wanting  in  the  Mussulman 
system  ; yet  custom  secures  the  former,  and  poverty 
the  latter.  On  the  whole,  I am  disposed  to  think 
that  there  is  not  much  difference  between  the  two 
systems  in  the  Lower  Provinces  of  the  Bengal 
Presidency,  in  their  effects  on  the  morals  or  the 
minds  of  their  votaries.  Probably  the  Mussulman 
part  of  the  community  have  some  advantages  over 
their  neighbors  in  being  permitted  to  keep  fowls, 
&c.  Small  as  this  item  is,  it  is  a matter  of  consi- 
derable importance  among  a people  so  very  poor,  and 
so  very  densely  settled. 

It  is  rather  singular  to  see  the  Mussulmans  so 
tenacious  of  caste.  My  boat-people  and  servants  are 
all  Mussulmans  ; and  yet  I have  to  be  as  careful  not 
to  pollute  their  food  by  touching  it  in  any  way  as  if 
they  were  Hindus.  A little  terrier  dog,  given  to  me 
by  a lady  at  Berhampore,  and  which  is  quite  a 
favorite  amongst  the  men,  gave  great  offence  one 
afternoon.  Having  swum  from  the  shore,  when  he 
got  on  deck  he  very  naturally  shook  off  the  water, 
and  a drop  or  two  fell  on  the  servants’  chipatis,  flat 
cakes  of  bread,  which  they  were  just  getting  ready 
for  their  dinner.  Forthwith,  a clamor  was  raised ; 
the  little  dog  scampered  off  to  the  cabin  ; and  the 
poor  cakes  of  bread  were  forthwith  pitched  over- 
board by  the  men  with  much  indignation. 

The  prevalence  of  caste  among  both  pagan  and 
Mohammedan  Plindus  serves  to  show  that  it  is  a 


98 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  1 


civil  institution  in  some  sense,  though  invented  by 
the  Brahmans  as  an  essential  part  of  their  religious 
system.  The  Mussulmans  doubtless  retain  in  some 
degree  the  religious  character  of  their  heathen  coun- 
trymen ; and  the  civil  institutions  and  social  obser- 
vances, as  well  as  the  literature  of  the  people  of  this 
country,  are  all  inseparably  intervoven  with  their 
religion. 

Leaving  Pir  Ponti,  we  sailed  over  a broad  expanse 
of  water,  in  order  to  get  to  the  other  side  ; for  the 
boatmen  on  this  river  seldom  steer  their  boats  in  the 
middle  of  the  channel,  but  creep  along  close  by  the 
shore.  At  the  place  where  we  crossed,  the  river  is 
probably  three  or  four  miles  wide.  While  in  the 
middle  of  the  channel,  a gale  sprang  up  suddenly, 
and  struck  the  boat  on  the  foreside,  coming  partly  in 
the  same  course  as  the  current.  We  were  carried 
obliquely  down  the  current  with  fearful  rapidity  for 
two  or  three  miles,  until  all  at  once  we  were  “ brought 
to”  by  being  dashed  violently  against  the  low  shore. 
The  shock  was  so  great  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I 
could  keep  on  my  feet ; while  chairs,  books,  plates, 
pitchers,  glasses,  were  scattered  over  the  cabin  floor 
in  great  confusion.  I felt  extremely  grateful  to  the 
kind  Providence  which  preserved  us.  Often  in  such 
sudden  gales,  boats  founder  at  once,  and  all  on  board 
perish. 

The  scenery  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  in  this 
place,  is  very  beautiful.  A low  range  of  irregular 
hills  stretches  along  for  several  miles,  among  which 
the  eye  is  delighted  to  see  some  pretty  little  brooks 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


99 


hastening  to  pay 'their  tribute  to  the  great  river. 
How  beautiful  the  Scripture  language  about  “living 
water,”  that  is,  not  standing  pools,  but  running 
streams,  than  which  there  is  no  more  refreshing  and 
pleasing  object  in  eastern  countries.  Their  water  is 
fresh  and  pure,  ever  flowing,  and  free  to  all,  the  poor 
and  the  rich  ; while  in  the  tanks  or  pools,  and  in  the 
cisterns  or  wells,  the  water  is  usually  stagnant  and 
extremely  dirty ; and  frequently  is  accessible  only  to 
a limited  number.  God  is  our  fountain  of  “ living 
water,”  and  Christ  has  promised  his  Holy  Spirit  to 
be  as  “ rivers  of  living  water.”  The  allusion,  we 
may  suppose,  is  to  the  flowing  streams  that  watered 
Palestine ; the  true  meaning  points  to  higher  bless- 
ings than  earth  can  afford. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  country  is  as 
flat  and  uninteresting  as  usual.  Here,  as  elsewhere, 
large  herds  of  buffaloes  are  to  be  seen  grazing,  under 
the  care  of  a few  poorly  clad  herdsmen.  These 
animals  are  all  of  a dark  color,  a good  deal  larger 
than  the  common  cow,  with  semicircular  horns  pro- 
jecting backward  along  the  neck,  and  not  so  crooked 
as  those  of  a ram,  though  resembling  them  in  other 
respects.  The  buffaloes  in  this  country  seem  to  take 
as  much  pleasure  in  wallowing  in  a pond  of  mud 
and  water  as  the  less  honored  swine.  Frequently  in 
passing  along,  a person  may  see  the  noses  and  horns 
of  many  hundreds  of  them  sticking  up  out  of  the 
water,  in  which  they  delight  to  remain  during  the 
hot  part  of  the  day.  They  are  used,  as  are  cows,  in 
ploughing,  harrowing,  and  carrying  burdens.  Their 


100 


JOURNEY  TO  LOD1ANA  : 


milk  also  is  much  used,  but  it  is  deemed  a coarser 
fare  than  that  of  the  cow. 

August  22. — Above  Bhagulpore,  we  left  the  main 
body  of  water  to  the  left,  and  passed  several  miles 
up  a channel  that  has  been  formed  within  a few  years, 
and  which  is  much  more  direct.  It  is  now  a large 
river,  and  will  most  probably  become  the  highway 
of  the  Ganges  in  a few  years.  Such  changes  are 
constantly  taking  place.  One  of  the  greatest  obsta- 
cles to  the  navigation  of  this  river  by  steamboats,  is 
the  constant  changing  of  the  channel  and  the  forma- 
tion of  new  sand-bars,  so  that  the  most  experienced 
pilot  hardly  knows  where  to  guide  his  vessel ; while 
the  muddy  nature  of  the  water  renders  useless  any 
effort  to  see  his  way. 

Bhagulpore  is  an  English  civil  station ; that  is,  it 
is  the  residence  of  an  English  collector,  judge,  sur- 
geon, and  probably  a few  other  officers,  who  collect 
the  revenue  of  the  district,  and  administer  justice. 
Often  the  civil  and  military  stations  are  at  the  same 
place  ; though  frequently  this  is  not  the  case.  The 
town  is  not  large,  but  presents  a pleasing  appearance 
at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles  ; it  contains  a 
number  of  large  houses,  and  the  situation  is  rather 
elevated. 

August  23. —A  trifling  incident  attracted  my 
notice,  as  affording  an  illustration  of  the  spirit  of 
lying  which  pervades,  according  to  all  testimony,  the 
entire  Hindu  people.  Our  boat  was  moored  to  the 
bank,  with  several  others,  and  many  men  were  busy 
on  the  shore  preparing  their  dinner.  A fowl  made  its 
escape  from  the  coop  on  one  of  the  boats,  and  taking 


VOYAGE  O..  THE  GANGES. 


101 


its  flight  in  a little  circle  before  the  people,  happened 
to  alight  near  an  old  grey-headed  man,  who  was 
cleaving  wood.  A boy  ran  after  this  stray  chicken 
to  bring  it  back,  when  the  old  man  ordered  him  off, 
roundly  asserting  that  the  fowl  was  his,  and  had 
escaped  from  his  boat ; though  he  was  a Hindu,  to 
whom  it  would  have  been  worse  than  death  to  have 
eaten  the  unclean  bird,  for  which  he  was  so  willing 
to  tell  a lie.  The  owner  did  not  give  up  his  right ; 
but  the  incident  seemed  to  be  looked  on  as  a matter 
of  course. 

August  25. — We  have  made  little  progress  for 
several  days,  on  account  of  strong  current  and  no 
wind.  We  are  now  lying  below  Jangera,  one  of  the 
few  places  of  note  on  this  river.  It  is  remarkable  for 
two  large  rocks  which  project  out  some  distance  into 
the  river,  and  are  distant  from  each  other  about  one 
hundred  yards.  On  the  top  of  one  is  built  a mosque, 
and  on  the  other  a temple.  The  former  is  now  in 
ruins. 

August  26. — At  our  place  of  mooring  this  even- 
ing, there  were  many  native  boats,  and  I counted 
nearly  a hundred  people  belonging  to  them.  Only 
one  man  among  them  all  could  read  the  tracts  I 
offered,  and  he  very  imperfectly ; and  yet  in  each 
boat  there  are  usually  one  or  two  respectable  men. 
These  boats  are  commonly  laden  with  return  cargoes 
of  various  native  goods  and  wares  from  Calcutta  to 
different  places  up  the  country.  The  head  man  of 
one  of  the  boats  came  to  tell  me  he  had  some  English 
goods  to  sell.  Feeling  a curiosity  to  know  of  what 


102 


JOURNEY  TO  LODI  A N A : 


description  they  were,  I went  on  board,  and  found  a 
box  of  old  Windsor  soap  and  a cracked  bottle  of 
arrow-root.  The  rest  of  his  cargo  was  entirely 
native.  The  chief  articles  in  the  native  trade  seem 
to  be  salt,  rice,  various  kinds  of  pulse,  cotton,  coarse 
cotton  fabrics,  sugar,  mustard,  oil,  &c.  We  fre- 
quently see  boats  laden  with  earthenware  vessels  ; 
and  less  frequently  now  than  lower  down,  many 
boats  employed  in  carrying  the  indigo  plant,  which 
looks  somewhat  like  long  coarse  grass,  to  the  nearest 
factory.  Many  boats  are  filled  with  European  stores 
for  the  various  stations  up  the  country.  These  boats 
are  always  hired,  freighted,  and  insured  by  some  mer- 
cantile house  in  Calcutta. 

One  is  surprised  at  the  lowness  of  the  wages  paid 
to  the  boatmen.  It  is  indeed  wonderful  that  they  can 
live  and  support  their  families  on  such  terms.  The 
common  wages  are  three  rupees  per  month  to  the 
men,  equal  nearly  to  a dollar  and  a half  of  American 
money,  and  four  rupees  to  the  manjhi,  or  head  man  ; 
out  of  which  they  must  purchase  their  own  food  and 
clothing,  and  pay  all  their  expenses  of  every  kind  ; 
as  they  have  no  other,  means  of  support.  And 
although  these  poor  fellows  work  at  a great  disad- 
vantage, on  account  of  their  very  awkward  boats, 
and  still  more  rude  means  of  propelling  them  ; yet 
bating  something  for  the  irregular  habits  of  heathen, 

I have  scarcely  ever  seen  harder  working  men. 
They  are  daily  at  work  from  sunrise  to  sunset, 
pulling,  pushing,  wading  sometimes  in  mud,  often  in 
water  above  their  waist,  exposed  all  the  time  to  an 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


103 


intensely  hot  sun ; and  their  only  reward  is  a pittance 
which  enables  them  to  buy  their  rice  to  eat,  and  their 
tobacco  or  their  opium  to  smoke  in  their  huka,  and 
perhaps  once  in  six  months,  a piece  of  coarse  cotton 
muslin,  two  or  three  yards  long  by  three  fourths 
of  a yard  wide,  for  a new  suit  of  clothes.  These 
boatmen  deserve  great  commiseration.  They  are 
a peaceful,  hard-working,  and  obliging  race  ; but 
they  are  compelled  to  live  nearly  at  the  lowest  point 
of  human  subsistence.  Their  minds  are  perfectly  . 
blank  as  to  all  elevating  knowledge  ; their  morals  are 
what  might  be  expected,  where  the  heart  is  left 
utterly  uninfluenced  by  the  Gospel,  and  uncultivated 
by  good  agency  of  any  kind  ; and  their  prospects  as 
to  the  future  world  afford  nothing  whatever  to  sup- 
port them  under  the  hardships,  or  comfort  them 
under  the  sorrows,  of  their  existence  in  this  life. 

August  27. — We  reached  Munghir.  For  the  last 
eight  or  ten  miles,  the  river  has  been  separated  into 
various  channels,  so  that,  at  the  place  where  we 
were  moored  last  night,  the  broadest  was  not  more 
than  a quarter  of  a mile  wide.  Just  before  reaching 
this  town,  the  new  iron  steamboat,  which  was  launched 
a few  months  ago  at  Calcutta,  passed  the  budgerow, 
bound  to  Allahabad.  This  is  said  to  be  the  second 
time  a steamer  has  attempted  to  ascend  any  distance 
on  the  Ganges,  and  it  is  the  first  attempt  to  come  so 
high  as  this  place.  I have  already  mentioned  some 
of  the  difficulties  attending-  the  navigation  of  this 
river.  This  vessel  moves  at  rather  a sJow  rate 
against  the  current.  But  it  is  a small-sized  boat, 

6 


104 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA : 


and  has  in  tow  a baggage-boat,  as  large  as  the 
steamer  itself. 

Munghir  presents  a very  pleasing  appearance,  as 
a person  approaches  it  from  the  river.  It  stands  on 
a kind  of  promontory,  at  the  south-east  extremity  of 
an  island  formed  by  the  river,  and  its  situation  is 
elevated — an  advantage  possessed  by  few  Indian 
towns.  It  was  formerly  a place  of  considerable 
strength,  in  the  wars  between  native  kings ; and  the 
extensive  walls  of  the  fort,  which  are  yet  remaining, 
must  have  proved  almost  impregnable  to  a native 
army.  Its  aspect  now  is  more  peaceful  and  more 
pleasing,  as  the  fort  has  been  allowed  to  go  to  decay, 
and  some  good  looking  European  houses  have  been 
erected  on  the  high  knolls  in  its  inclosure.  The  native 
town  seems  to  be  prospering,  and  the  people  are  driv- 
ing an  active  business  in  the  various  kinds  of  iron 
manufactures,  for  which  this  place  has  long  been  cele- 
brated. Fowling-pieces,  pistols,  kettles,  knives,  &c., 
are  made  with  great  neatness,  and  at  low  prices,  but 
are  said  to  be  apt  to  break,  on  account  of  the  bad 
materials  from  which  they  are  made. 

There  is  a branch  of  the  Baptist  mission  at  this 
place,  with  two  Baptist  missionaries,  and  their  fami- 
lies. One  of  them  is  actively  employed  in  various 
efforts  to  extend  the  Gospel  among  the  heathen,  and 
has  a small  church  of  some  twenty  native  converts. 
There  is  also  an  English  service  on  Sundays,  and 
on  one  or  two  evenings  during  the  week.  Munghir 
is  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles  by  land  from 
Calcutta,  and  probably  four  hundred  miles  by  the  river. 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


105 


August  30. — A few  miles  below  Bahar.  We  are 
fully  entered  into  the  great  plain  of  Hindusthan,  or 
Hindusthan  proper.  A pleasing  range  of  hills,  the 
Gorruckpore,  were  in  sight  the  first  two  days  after 
leaving  Munghir.  But  now,  we  may  bid  farewell  to 
hills  for  many  hundred  miles  to  come.  The  banks 
of  the  river  have  presented  an  almost  continuous 
succession  of  villages  ; and  the  people  are  a hardier 
and  more  manly  looking  race  than  the  Bengalis. 
The  province  of  Bahar,  which  forms  the  western 
boundary  of  Bengal,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  this 
Presidency.  The  soil  is  of  a drier  nature,  and  the 
climate  is  said  to  be  more  temperate  than  in  Bengal, 
though  the  hot  winds  from  the  westward  extend  over 
part  of  this  province.  In  some  parts  the  proportion 
between  the  Mussulmans  and  Hindus  is  one  of  the 
former  to  three  of  the  latter.  The  celebrated  place 
of  Hindu  pilgrimage,  Guya,  is  in  the  south  part  of 
this  province,  about  fifty  miles  south  from  Patna. 
Formerly  the  East  India  Company  collected  an 
annual  sum  equal  to  eighty  thousand  dollars,  from  a 
small  tax  on  each  pilgrim.  It  derives  its  holiness 
from  having  been  the  birth-place  of  some  of  the'gods. 
This  is  the  chief  region  of  the  opium  and  saltpetre 
manufactures  ; and  instead  of  the  immense  fields  of 
rice  which  tire  the  eye  in  Bengal,  we  now  begin  to 
see  wheat  and  barley.  The  town  of  Bahar,  or  Bar, 
is  an  old  and  ruinous  looking  place,  but  of  consider- 
able size,  thirty-five  miles  south-east  from  Patna. 

September  1. — Having  had  a fine  wind,  and  the 
course  of  the  river  being  very  direct  from  Bar,  I 


106 


JOURNEY  TO  EODIANA : 


reached  Patna  this  morning — about  three  hundred 
and  seventy  miles  by  land,  and  five  hundred  or  five 
hundred  and  fifty  by  water,  from  Calcutta.  The 
appearance  of  this  city  from  the  river  is  certainlysupe- 
rior  to  that  of  most  India  towns  I have  yet  seen.  It  is 
built  chiefly  along  one  street,  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
river,  which  is  here  more  than  usually  elevated  above 
the  water;  and  many  of  the  houses  are  quite  large, 
constructed  of  brick,  and  abutting  on  the  river. 
Yet  a nearer  view  shows  that  many  of  the  buildings 
are  going  to  ruin,  while  scarcely  any  of  them  are  in 
a better  style  than  is  often  seen  in  Hindu  buildings 
elsewhere.  The  population  is  variously  estimated. 
Probably  it  is  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand.  The  number  is  so  large  that  the  city 
extends  six  or  seven  miles  along  the  river ; though 
in  no  part  is  the  width  more  than  one  half  or  three 
fourths  of  a mile.  Among  the  manufactures  of  this 
city,  a kind  of  cloth  resembling  diaper  and  damask 
linens,  and  wax  candles,  are  of  most  note  in  other 
parts  of  India.  The  East  India  Company  have  some 
of  their  depots  for  opium  at  this  place ; of  which 
article,  as  of  salt,  they  retain  the  monopoly. 

There  are  two  missionaries  at  Patna ; one  a very 
devoted,  interesting  gentleman  of  fortune,  who  is  not 
in  connexion  with  any  society ; the  other  a Baptist. 
Neither  of  them  has  been  very  long  here,  and  they 
have  not  as  yet  had  the  privilege  of  seeing  any  con- 
verts from  among  the  Heathen.  The  Sikhs  have  a 
place  of  worship  at  Patna  of  considerable  repute. 
It  would  be  interesting  to  ascertain  how  this  solitary 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


107 


branch  of  that  religion  was  planted  so  far  from  the 
parent  stock.  After  staying  a few  hours  with  a kind 
Christian  family  to  whom  I had  letters,  and  where  I 
had  the  additional  pleasure  of  meeting  the  former 
mentioned  missionary,  I started  again  in  the  after- 
noon, and  made  a few  miles,  mooring  for  the  night 
opposite  Bankipur. 

September  2. — Passing  Bankipur,  where  the  civil 
servants  of  the  Company,  engaged  in  administering 
justice  and  collecting  the  revenue,  chiefly  reside, 
and  then  passing  Dighah,  I stopped  between  the 
latter  place  and  Dinapore,  and  spent  the  rest  of  the 
day  with  another  Baptist  missionary  who  is  stationed 
at  this  place.  Here  I enjoyed  the  satisfaction  of 
much  Christian  intercourse  with  this  family,  and  the 
other  Baptist  missionary,  who  had  come  to  spend  the 
day  with  them.  These  brethren,  in  addition  to  their 
duties  among  the  Heathen  in  preaching  or  talking  to 
them  and  distributing  tracts,  have  each  an  English 
service  attended  by  some  of  the  Europeans  or  others 
who  speak  English.  Patna,  Bankipur,  Dighah,  and 
Dinapore,  form  an  almost  continuous  city  of  twelve 
or  fifteen  miles  in  length.  Dighah  is  a considerable 
village,  and  Dinapore,  the  scene  of  Henry  Martyn’s 
pious  labors,  is  one  of  the  largest  military  stations  ; 
it  has  also  a native  population  of  probably  fifteen 
or  twenty  thousand.  There  is  usually  a King’s 
regiment,  a Company’s  regiment,  and  a large  artil- 
lery detachment  of  European  soldiers,  at  this  post, 
who  have  fine  substantial  barracks.  The  church 
also  makes  a good  appearance.  With  the  chaplain 


108 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA: 


I did  not  become  acquainted.  From  all  I have 
heard,  religious  matters  are  in  a condition  but  little 
if  any  better  than  when  the  faithful  Martyn  was 
here,  or  than  is  described  in  the  Journal  of  Bishop 
Heber. 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


109 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  CONTINUED. 

Rivers  and  towns — Attar  of  Roses — Danger  from  falling  banks — 
Benares — Allahabad,  example  of  fatal  superstition — Review  of  the 
river  journey — Dak  travelling — Agra — Delhi — Arrive  at  Lodiana. 

September  3. — This  morning,  there  was  a fine 
breeze  which  raised  quite  a sea  in  the  broad  expanse 
of  water  over  which  we  sailed.  The  river  is  here 
several  miles  wide  at  this  season.  In  the  course  of 
to-day’s  sail,  we  passed  the  mouths  of  three  large 
rivers  which  enter  the  Ganges ; the  Gunduk,  which 
is  said  to  take  its  rise  in  Thibet,  and  in  whose  waters 
the  stricter  Hindus  are  forbidden  to  bathe ; the 
Gogra,  also  from  the  Himalaya  mountains,  after  a 
course  of  five  hundred  miles ; and  the  Soane,  from 
the  south,  after  an  equally  long  journey.  But,  owing 
to  the  lowness  of  the  banks,  and  the  extent  to  which 
the  waters  are  spread  over  the  face  of  the  country, 
I could  not  distinguish  the  places  where  their  streams 
unite  with  the  great  river. 

About  twenty  miles  above  Dinapore,  we  passed 
Chaprah,  a fine  looking  native  town,  of  some  thirty 
thousand  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  river.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Saran, 


110 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  : 


in  the  province  of  Bahar,  and  is  the  residence  of  an 
English  magistrate,  a collector,  and  probably  a sur- 
geon. This  town  presents  many  advantages  as  a 
situation  for  a mission  family.  The  district  of  which 
it  is  the  chief  town  contains  twenty-five  hundred 
square  miles,  and  its  population  in  1801  was  esti- 
mated by  the  Governor-General  from  revenue  statis- 
tics at  one  million  two  hundred  thousand  souls. 
Probably,  the  number  at  present  is  not  less  than  a 
million  and  a half. 

September  4. — In  the  evening,  we  reached  Buxar, 
where  there  is  a dismantled  fort,  the  situation  of 
which  completely  commands  the  river,  contracted 
here  to  little  more  than  a quarter  of  a mile  in  width. 
Buxar  is  one  of  the  stations  for  invalid  soldiers ; of 
whom  there  is  always  a considerable  number  under 
proper  officers.  It  is  also  one  of  the  places  where 
the  Company  have  an  establishment  for  rearing 
horses  for  the  cavalry.  The  native  town  is  quite 
large,  and  chiefly  composed  of  Mussulmans. 

September  5. — We  passed  to-day  the  mouth  of  the 
Karamnasa  river,  said  to  be  a small  winding  stream. 
For  the  reason  which  prevented  my  seeing  the  place 
of  junction  of  the  Soane,  I did  not  enjoy  the  gratifi- 
cation of  seeing  that  of  this  river  with  the  Ganges. 
The  banks  of  the  Ganges  are  now  higher,  the  trees 
fewer,  and  the  innumerable  villages  more  uniformly 
characterized  by  having  a tope  or  grove  of  mango 
trees  in  their  immediate  vicinity. 

September  8. — On  the  evening  of  the  sixth,  I 
reached  Ghazeepore  and  spent  the  Sunday  with  the 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


Ill 


chaplain,  a pious,  amiable,  and  excellent  man  ; in 
whose  family  I had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  two  or 
three  officers,  connected  with  the  military  at  this 
station.  This  is  both  a military  and  a civil  station. 
As  there  is  usually  a regiment  of  European  soldiers 
in  the  barracks,  there  is  a chaplain  and  a church. 
But  for  the  service  of  the  natives,  amounting  to 
many  thousands,  perhaps  fifty  thousand,  there  is 
neither  missionary  nor  any  kind  of  agency  employed. 
This  is  an  important  station  for  a mission  family ; as 
there  are  no  missionaries  nearer  than  Benares,  which 
is  forty  miles  distant,  while  the  population  of  this 
district  is  as  dense  as  usual.  The  town  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  healthy  in  India,  which  I should 
think  very  probable  from  the  high  open  ground  on 
which  it  stands.  Of  the  native  inhabitants  rather  a 
large  portion  are  Mussulmans  ; but  in  the  country 
they  do  not  average  more  than  one  eighth  of  the 
people.  The  character  of  the  people  of  this  town 
is  rather  unfavorably  noted  They  are  spoken  of  as 
lawless  and  ready  for  acts  of  violence. 

The  country  around  is  extensively  covered  with 
rose  bushes,  which  are  cultivated  for  the  purpose  of 
manufacturing  rose  water,  and  the  famous  attar  of 
roses.  To  produce  a quantity  of  the  latter  equal  in 
weight  to  rather  less  than  half  an  ounce,  it  is  said 
that  twenty  thousand  grown  roses  are  required,  and 
the  price  of  that  quantity  is  about  fifty  dollars.  The 
attar  is  obtained  by  skimming  off  the  oil,  which  is 
found  on  the  surface  of  the  rose  water  after  being 
exposed  all  night  to  the  open  air.  i 

6* 


112 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA : 


To-day,  we  got  under  sail  again  ; but  the  wind 
being  very  light,  and  the  current  very  strong,  the 
men  were  soon  obliged  to  go  on  shore  with  the  rope. 
We  were  to-day  frequently  exposed  to  one  of  the 
greatest  dangers  of  travelling  on  this  river.  The 
banks  are  often  high,  crumbling,  and  ready  to  fall 
into  the  water.  By  the  tow  rope  the  boat  is  dragged 
close  to  the  bank,  whilst  the  heavy  tramp  of  the  men 
in  pulling,  and  the  rubbing  of  the  rope  on  the  edge 
of  the  bank,  frequently  detach  large  masses  of 
ground.  The  danger  is,  that  they  may  fall  on  the 
top  of  the  poor  boat ; in  which  case  it  would  almost 
certainly  founder.  This  afternoon,  the  risk  appeared 
so  great  that  1 thought  it  best  to  leave  the  boat  and 
walk  some  miles.  The  sun  was  covered  with  clouds, 
so  that  I did  not  experience  the  evil  influence  which 
invariably  attends  exposure  to  his  rays  at  this  season 
of  the  year. 

September  9.— -We  passed  a Conductor’s  fleet  of 
boats,  some  thirty  or  forty,  carrying  military  stores 
to  different  stations  of  the  army.  We  passed  also 
the  native  town  of  Seidpur,  a place  of  some  business. 
No  incidents  of  much  interest  occured. 

September  11. — We  reached  the  far-famed  city, 
Benares.  The  appearance  of  this  city  is  certainly 
very  fine,  as  one  approaches  it  on  the  river.  It 
stands  on  a high  bank,  perhaps  thirty  feet  above 
the  water,  on  the  inner  side  of  the  crescent,  or  semi- 
circular sweep,  which  the  river  here  makes  of  some 
three  or  four  miles ; so  that,  at  one  glance,  a person 
can  see  the  entire  river  view  of  the  city.  This  view 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGE3. 


113 


is  quite  singular,  without  anything  to  resemble  it, 
much  less  to  rival  it.  The  houses  are  built  close  to 
the  edges  of  the  bank.  Numerous  temples  stand 
also  on  the  same  eminence,  while  many  ghats,  or 
landing  places,  of  stone  steps,  leading  from  the  water 
up  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  some  of  them  very  large, 
are  covered  with  crowds  of  worshippers  bathing  or 
washing  in  the  holy  river. 

But  it  is  in  the  city  itself  that  a person  sees  how 
entirely  it  is  “ given  to  idolatry.”  The  streets  are 
so  narrow  that  neither  carriage  nor  horse  can  enter 
them ; at  least,  it  is  not  expedient  to  attempt  pene- 
trating them  on  horseback ; and,  in  a carriage,  it  is 
not  practicable.  As  the  houses  are  very  high,  never 
less  than  two  stories,  but  more  frequently  five  or 
six,  there  is  an  air  of  gloomy  seriousness,  befitting 
the  holy  place  of  such  a religion.  At  every  corner 
and  turn,  the  eye  sees  temples  and  pagodas,  of  all 
sizes,  and  of  every  kind  of  structure.  In  the  streets 
many  fat,  lazy,  tame  Brahmany  bulls  are  walking 
about  at  their  leisure ; and  beggars,  and  devotees, 
and  Brahmans,  are  not  less  numerous.  The  walls 
of  the  houses  often  present  rude  paintings  of  the 
different  gods  and  goddesses,  with  their  various 
transformations  and  exploits,  their  many  arms  and 
weapons ; and,  in  the  raised  narrow  projections,  at 
the  doors  of  the  houses,  and  in  the  inner  corners  of 
streets,  are  sitting  numerous  persons,  selling  flowers 
and  beads  for  the  accommodation  of  the  multitude 
of  worshippers.  In  the  temples  there  are  always 
numerous  Brahmans  ; some  reading  in  loud,  chanting 


114 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA 


tones,  the  shasters ; others,  besmearing  an  obscene 
image  with  oil,  and  decorating  it  with  (lowers  ; others, 
pouring  libations  of  holy  water  from  the  Ganges  on 
the  idols,  and  on  different  places  in  the  temple ; 
while  not  unfrequently  a crowd  of  holy  beggars, 
looking  like  demons  through  chalk  and  cow-dung, 
make  a person  almost  deaf  with  their  incessant 
repetition  of  Ram  ! Ram  ! Ram  ! 

Benares  is  held  as  sacred  for  ten  miles  round,  but 
particular  places  in  it  are  accounted  peculiarly  holy. 
One  visit  to  this  city  secures  for  the  pilgrim  a sure 
admission  into  heaven.  Many  resort  here  from  all 
parts  of  India,  to  finish  their  days  ; and  so  great  is 
the  fame  of  its  holiness  that  many  Rajahs  have  vakils 
residing  here,  to  perform  for  them  the  requisite  cere- 
monies and  ablutions.  It  is  said  that  within  this 
city  are  a million  of  images  of  an  obscene  image.  If 
true,  or  even  near  the  truth,  this  estimate  conveys  a 
mournful  idea  of  the  state  of  morals.  The  mosque 
built  by  Aurengzebe  is  the  highest  edifice,  the  mina- 
rets being  upwards  of  two  hundred  feet  high.  It 
was  built  to  mortify  the  Hindus,  and  is  erected  on 
the  site  of  one  of  their  most  holy  temples.  The 
view  from  the  top  is  very  extensive  and  interesting. 

Among  the  various  buildings  of  some  interest  is 
an  old  Observatory,  where  may  be  seen  a large 
gnomon  of  stone  and  some  other  instruments. 
Benares  is  not  merely  the  Jerusalem  of  the  Hindus  ; 
it  is  also  their  Athens.  There  are  many  private 
schools  in  which  Sanscrit  is  studied  under  learned 
Brahman  Pandits,  who  are  supported  by  native 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES, 


115 


princes  and  other  wealthy  Hindus.  There  is  also 
a Hindu  College,  in  which  are  taught  the  various 
branches  of  Hindu  learning,  not  excepting  astrology, 
nor  the  astronomy  of  Ptolemy,  nor  the  geography 
which  teaches  that  the  earth  is  supported  by  the 
tortoise  “ chakwa,”  and  that  mount  Meru,  standing 
in  the  centre  of  the  vast  plain  which  forms  the 
earth’s  surface,  supports  the  seven  heavens.  It 
is  said  to  have  eight  or  ten  professors,  and  about 
two  hundred  students.  The  superintendent  is  an 
European. 

The  population  has  been  estimated  at  upwards  of 
five  hundred  thousand  ; but  many  suppose  that 
it  does  not  exceed  three  hundred  thousand.  At 
particular  festivals  the  concourse  is  great  beyond  any 
computation.  The  European  residents  live  in 
Secrole,  one  of  the  suburbs,  about  three  miles  distant 
from  the  chief  part  of  the  city.  There  is  also  a 
regiment  of  sepoys  stationed  there,  and  a chaplain. 

There  are  seven  missionaries  at  this  city  ; three 
of  the  Church  Society,  and  one  superintendent  of 
a large  English  and  Persian  school,  founded  by  a 
wealthy  native,  but  committed  to  the  management 
of  that  Society  ; three  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society,  who  have  a small  chapel  and  stated  service 
in  the  city ; and  one  of  the  Serampore  Baptist  So- 
ciety, who  resides  in  the  city,  and  has  a room  in  his 
own  house  fitted  for  a chapel.  Usually  these  bre- 
thren go  every  day  to  the  city,  and  talk  with  the 
people,  and  give  religious  books  and  tracts  to  those 
who  they  think  will  make  a good  use  of  them. 


116 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA: 


Though  they  have  not  yet  had  any  conversions, 
they  all  say  that  they  are  heard  with  more  attention 
and  seriousness  now  than  a few  years  ago. 

Of  the  journey  above  Benares,  I will  give  some 
notices  from  letters  written  at  different  places. 
From  Benares,  passing  Chunar,  Mirzapore,  and 
other  native  towns,  I reached  Allahabad  on  the  23d 
of  September.  From  a letter  written  on  the  next 
day  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Society,  the  following 
extract  is  taken  : 

“ The  junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna,  you 
know,  is  regarded  by  the  Hindus  as  one  of  the  most 
holy  places  in  the  sacred  river.  As  the  Jumna  is 
not  an  object  of  worship,  I hardly  know  how  the 
opinion  has  originated  that  the  goddess  Gunga,  or 
Ganges,  should  derive  an  accession  of  holiness  from 
her  union  with  that  river.  Nor  is  there  anything  in 
the  natural  scenery  of  the  place  peculiarly  impres- 
sive. The  country  is  level  on  both  sides,  though 
not  so  flat  as  in  Bengal,  and  the  two  rivers  unite 
without  occasioning,  even  at  this  season  when  both 
are  much  swollen,  any  great  noise  or  large  waves. 
We  behold  with  interest  two  large  rivers  flowing 
together,  but  apart  from  that,  there  is  not  so  much 
to  excite  ideas  of  power  in  the  junction  of  these 
rivers  as  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela. 

“ Till  a few  years  ago  it  was  quite  common  for  the 
deluded  worshippers,  many  of  them,  to  drown  them- 
selves at  this  place,  supposing  that  thereby  the  pos- 
session of  heaven  was  rendered  certain.  The  boat, 
in  which  they  were  accustomed  to  go  to  the  proper 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


m 


place  to  take  their  departure,  came  at  last  into  the 
possession  of  an  old  woman,  some  time  before  the 
English  authorities  interfered  to  put  a stop  to  the 
custom,  and  she  “ by  that  craft  had  her  wealth.”  Of 
course  she  did  not  relish  a change  which  would  take 
away  her  income,  and  earnestly  contended  that 
people  had  a right  to  drown  themselves  if  they 
pleased.  The  magistrate  was  firm,  and  while  he  did 
not  directly  oppose  the  custom,  he  informed  all  con- 
cerned that  he  would  punish  with  death  any  who 
should,  in  any  way,  be  accessary  to  their  destruc- 
tion. This  simple  measure  brought  the  custom  to 
an  end.  This  occurred  but  a few  years  ago.  I 
could  not  but  feel  sad  at  heart  while  sailing  over  the 
place  where  many  of  our  fellow  creatures  ‘ rushed 
unbidden"  into  the  presence  of  their  final  Judge, 
hoping  to  secure  his  favor  by  an  act  of  sin,  assured 
of  heaven  while  on  the  way  to  a widely  different 
destiny.  And  though  the  practice  no  longer  exists, 
yet  the  creed  does  in  all  its  blighting  influence.  Oh, 
soon  may  the  knowledge  of  the  true  way  of  happi- 
ness be  spread  amongst  this  people ! Incidents  like 
these  sacrifices,  and  like  the  swinging  by  hooks  in- 
serted in  the  muscles  of  the  back,  of  which  I saw  an 
example  last  spring,  would  seem  to  show  that  the 
promptings  of  natural  conscience  are  very  strong,  . 
even  where  great  ignorance  exists.  However  much 
may  be  ascribed  to  motives  of  vainglory  in  the  ap- 
plause of  men,  and  to  the  influence  of  stupefying 
doses  of  opium,  yet  the  foundation  of  these  customs 
lies  much  deeper.  Their  origin  and  continued 


] 18 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA  1 


existence  show  that  the  witness  which  God  has 
created  in  the  bosom  of  every  man  (see  Acts  xiv. 
17,  compared  with  Rom.  i.  20),  still  performs  its 
duty.  Such  proofs  of  the  power  of  natural  con- 
science should  encourage  missionaries  in  their 
addresses  to  the  heathen,  to  make  pointed  appeals 
to  it.” 

From  Cawnpore,  where  the  river  part  of  the 
journey  was  ended  on  the  9th  of  October,  a letter 
was  sent  to  the  same  gentleman,  of  which  a part  is 
annexed : 

“ A journey  on  this  river  affords  to  those  who  can 
speak  the  language  many  opportunities  of  usefulness 
to  the  natives.  Villages  are  thickly  studded  along 
the  banks ; many  boats  are  often  moored  at  the 
same  place  with  yours  ; generally  during  daylight, 
and  often  at  night  too,  the  people  live  in  the  open 
air,  and  are  very  willing  to  listen  to  your  instruc- 
tions, and  to  receive  your  books,  I distributed  a 
good  many  tracts,  and  at  times  under  circumstances 
which  greatly  affected  my  mind.  On  one  Sabbath, 
a venerable  aged  Brahman,  the  chief  man  in  the  vil- 
lage where  the  boat  was  lying  to,  came  to  ask  for  a 
tract.  He  could  not  read  himself,  but  said  he  would 
get  his  little  grandson  to  read  it  for  him,  and  he 
listened  with  much  attention  while  I read  a few 
pages.  In  coming  up  this  river,  a person  should 
have  some  Bengali,  and  as  many  Hindu!  and  Hin- 
dustani tracts  as  he  can  obtain,  and  also  separate 
books  of  the  sacred  Scriptures. 

“ A journey  of  this  kind  affords  much  leisure  for 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


119 


personal  improvement.  The  time  is  hardly  ever 
less  than  two  months  and  a half,  often  three  months, 
during  which  but  little  occurs  to  prevent  close  appli- 
cation to  reading,  writing,  &c.  Few  visits  or  calls 
to  pay  or  to  receive,  few  newspapers  to  spend  the 
morning  over,  few  objects  of  interest  in  the  scenery 
around  : the  danger  is  rather  that  of  having  too 
much,  than  too  little  time  for  study.  There  is 
something  also  in  this  kind  of  life  to  promote  the 
improvement  of  the  heart  in  piety.  Certainly  the 
presence  of  so  many  visible  dangers,  and  the  pre- 
serving care  of  the  Lord,  often  too  obvious  to  be 
overlooked,  1 in  perils  of  waters — in  perils  by  the 
heathen,’  should  call  forth  unfeigned  gratitude,  no 
less  than  humble  confidence  in  the  providence  and 
grace  of  God. 

“ There  are  few  objects  of  interest  to  be  seen  in  a 
journey  on  this  river.  The  Raj-mahal,  and  the 
Gorruckpore  Hills,  and  the  city  of  Benares,  ap- 
peared to  me  more  interesting  than  anything  else — 
the  former,  by  reminding  me  of  our  ‘lovely  native 
land  the  latter,  because  so  perfectly  unique,  for  I 
suppose  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  another  city 
with  so  many  features  peculiar  to  itself.  In  general, 
the  country  is  very  level,  the  banks  of  the  river  low 
and  monotonous  in  appearance,  the  river  itself  as 
muddy  as  high  rivers  usually  are,  and  less  impetuous, 
and  apparently  quite  unconscious  of  its  divine  cha- 
racter, and  equally  regardless  of  the  worship  it 
receives.  As  to  the  native  villages  and  towns,  when 
you  have  seen  one,  you  have  seen  a specimen  of 


120 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA: 


nearly  all.  The  great  part  of  the  houses  are  low 
mud  cottages,  with  two  low  doors,  and  covered  with 
thatch  coming  so  low  down  in  front  as  to  form  a 
sort  of  veranda,  or  open  portico.  Usually  a great 
many  low  shady  trees  are  found  in  their  villages,  and 
one  or  two  large  peepul  trees.  Around  the  foot  of 
one  of  these  a clay  platform  is  erected,  and  there, 
under  the  wide  spreading  branches,  in  the  afternoon, 
you  may  see  most  of  the  respectable  villagers  smok- 
ing their  hukas,  and  probably  discussing  the  poli- 
tics and  news  of  the  village.  These  are  the  places 
where  a missionary  should  take  his  station,  and 
direct  their  thoughts  to  heavenly  themes.  If  he 
were  prudent  and  kind  in  his  manner,  he  would 
hardly  ever  fail  to  obtain  a patient  and  respectful 
hearing. 

“One  is  much  struck  with  the  good  taste  these 
people  have  displayed  in  choosing  the  sites  of  their 
temples.  These,  in  the  country  and  in  villages,  are 
commonly  small  four,  six,  or  eight  sided  buildings,  of 
brick,  covered  with  plaster,  about  ten  or  twelve  feet 
high,  surmounted  by  a dome  and  a short  spire. 
They  have  seldom  any  other  furniture  than  the  idol, 
or  emblems  peculiar  to  the  particular  deity  wor- 
shipped, though  these  are  frequently  of  the  most 
indecent  description — too  much  so  to  be  named 
openly,  much  less  described.  I have  often  admired 
the  situation  of  the  temples.  Where  there  happens 
to  be  a high,  bold  bank  to  the  river,  you  will  very 
often  see  one  of  these  small  buildings  standing,  white 
and  conspicuous,  in  the  midst  of  two  or  three  small 


VOYAGE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


121 


trees  of  little  more  than  its  own  height.  At  other 
times  you  see  them  in  low  places,  under  an  over- 
spreading peepul,  close  by  the  water’s  edge,  with  a 
flight  of  steps  leading  down  into  the  water.  Per- 
haps a fine  grove  of  open,  round-topped  trees,  may 
form  a back  view  of  peculiar  beauty.  These  Hindu 
places  of  worship,  however,  furnish  nothing  to  im- 
prove either  the  intellect  or  the  heart.  Every  asso- 
ciation, every  thought  awakened  by  the  great  majority 
of  heathen  temples,  is  demoralizing  and  ruinous  to 
the  soul.  They  furnish  occasionally  a place  for  the 
reading  of  shastras,  which,  in  many  cases,  neither 
reader  nor  hearer  understands.  But  even  this  is  sel- 
dom done  ; there  is  no  stated  assembling  of  the 
people  to  receive  instruction  ; there  is  neither  scribe 
nor  teacher ; neither  book  nor  manuscript.  The 
worshippers,  after  saying  over  by  rote  some  dry 
names  of  gods,  sprinkling  a little  water,  and  offering, 
perhaps,  a few  flowers  to  the  idol,  and  if  followers  of 
Shiva,  daubing  his  face  with  some  mud,  not  for- 
getting sundry  ablutions  in  the  Ganges,  when  the 
temple  is  near  it,  then  go  away  as  ignorant  as  they 
came,  and  more  depraved. 

“ I ought  to  notice  one  other  feature  of  a journey 
on  this  river — the  intercourse  with  missionaries.  At 
Serampore,  Chinsurah,  Cutwa,  Berhampore,  Monghyr, 
Patna,  Digah,  Benares,  and  Buxar,  there  are  mis- 
sionaries, either  of  the  Baptist,  London,  or  Church 
Societies.  It  is  necessary  to  stop  at  most  of  these 
places  to  obtain  provisions,  and  the  Christian  kind- 
ness of  these  good  people  is  very  refreshing,  while  a 


122 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


knowledge  of  their  plans  and  operations  and  expe- 
rience will  be  of  great  service.  Everywhere  it  will 
be  found  that  God  regards  the  kind  of  heart  with 
which  he  is  served  more  than  the  kind  of  missionary 
organization.  Here  are  the  agents  of  voluntary  and 
ecclesiastical  societies ; all  have  been  blessed,  and 
the  former  certainly  not  more  than  the  latter.  But 
all  can  labor  in  love,  and  there  is  room  and  need 
for  all,  and  for  many  more.” 

From  Cawnpore  to  Lodiana  I proceeded  by  dak, 
travelling  in  a palanquin.  From  other  letters  a few 
notices  are  here  inserted  of  this  part  of  the  journey  : 

Delhi,  October  27. — “ At  Cawnpore,  I made  a new 
disposal  of  my  goods  and  chattels  ; putting  them  on 
three  hackeries,  or  rude  carts,  of  three  oxen  each. 
The  distance  thence  to  Lodiana  is  about  five  hun- 
dred miles  ; and  the  expense  of  transporting  them 
will  be  considerably  less  than  in  the  United  States 
by  a similar  or  land  conveyance.  As  for  myself,  I 
had  to  decide  on  travelling  by  dak.  In  this  manner 
one  goes  along,  night  and  day,  at  the  rate  of  four 
miles  an  hour. 

“At  night  a dak  traveller  presents  a singular 
appearance.  Foremost  are  the  petarrah  walas,  or 
bundle-carriers  ; of  whom  I have  three,  each  man 
walking  along  with  a peculiar  fast  gait,  and  carrying 
two  bundles  of  twenty-five  pounds  each,  swung  at  the 
ends  of  a stick  over  his  shoulder.  Then  comes  the 
traveller  in  his  palanquin,  borne  by  four  men,  who 
at  every  step  make  a peculiar  unpleasant  sound,  a 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


123 


kind  of  grunt,  by  way  of  music;  while  four  others 
run  by  their  side  ; each  set  relieving  the  other  about 
once  in  every  five  minutes.  But  the  most  singular 
appendage  is  the  mussalchi,  or  torch  bearer,  who 
runs  along  beside,  carrying  a large  torch,  on  which 
he  pours  oil  every  few  minutes,  making  a fine  light. 
Every  ten  or  twelve  miles,  a fresh  set  of  men  are 
stationed.  The  chief  difficulty  in  this  mode  of  tra- 
velling is  its  irksomeness,  from  one’s  always  lying  in 
the  same  position.  Persons  who  cannot  sleep  at 
night  are  seldom  able  to  endure  the  fatigue  ; but  I 
got  along  finely,  sleeping  as  well  as  usual,  until,  at 
the  end  of  their  stages,  the  bearers  would  awake  me 
for  their  bakshish,  or  usual  present  of  a few  anas. 
From  Cawnpore  to  Agra,  a distance  of  about  one 
hundred  and  ninety  miles  was  travelled  in  fifty 
hours ; and  from  Agra  to  Delhi,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  thirty-seven  hours. 

“ Agra  and  Delhi  are  the  two  chief  cities  of  Upper 
India  ; and  are  the  richest  in  memorials  of  former 
greatness  that  I have  ever  seen.  The  Taj,  at  Agra, 
is  a wonderfully  chaste  and  beautiful  monument  to 
the  favorite  wife  of  a Moghul  emperor.  The  main 
building  stands  on  a white- marble  terrace  or  plat- 
form, and  has  four  tall  minarets  or  towers,  of  grace- 
ful structure,  one  at  each  corner  of  the  terrace — all 
built  of  polished  white  marble.  One  side  fronts  on 
the  river  Jumna,  and  the  entrance  on  the  opposite 
side  is  through  a beautiful  garden.  Perhaps  the 
feature,  which  attracts  chief  attention  in  the  interior 
of  the  Taj,  is  the  mosaic  work,  or  inlaying  of  carne- 


124 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


lian,  and  other  valuable  stones,  in  the  shape  of  flowers 
and  vines,  of  great  variety  in  figure  and  delicacy 
of  coloring.  Two  richly  finished  tombs,  in  what 
might  almost  be  called  the  cellar,  but  which  have 
corresponding  tombs  in  the  chief  apartments,  directly 
above  the  lower  ones,  contain  the  only  inhabitants 
of  this  wonderful  edifice.  Their  glory  has  passed 
away  ; even  their  names  are  nearly  forgotten  ; while 
as  to  their  present  condition,  the  multitude  of  ex- 
tracts from  the  Koran,  on  the  walls,  inlaid,  afford 
little  ground  of  hope  that  they  look  back  on  their 
earthly  splendor,  or  on  the  sepulchral  state  of  their 
clay-tabernacles,  with  any  rejoicing.  The  Taj  was 
erected  by  Shah  Jehan,  in  memory  of  Nur  Nahal ; 
and  when  he  died  his  remains  were  ervtombed  bv 

J 

her  side. 

“ The  fort  at  Agra,  containing  a palace  and  a 
mosque  of  white  marble,  is  also  well  worth  seeing  ; 
as  are  some  other  tombs.  At  Delhi,  there  are 
several  mosques  and  public  buildings  of  great  interest, 
which  are  larger,  but  less  highly  finished,  than  those 
at  Agra.  The  principal  masjid,  or  Mohammedan 
temple,  in  this  city  is  built  of  a kind  of  freestone. 
These  Mohammedan  buildings, — the  Taj  and  mosques 
at  Agra,  and  the  mosques  at  Delhi, — are  generally 
constructed  on  the  same  principles  of  architecture  ; 
which  indeed  seem  to  characterize  all  Mohammedan 
public  buildings.  You  have  a noble  terrace,  with 
perhaps  some  fine  reservoirs  of  water.  Then  in  the 
centre  of  the  terrace  stands  the  main  building,  sur- 
mounted invariably  by  one  dome  ; sometimes  by 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


125 


more,  with  short  gilded  spires  ; while  at  two  of  the 
corners  of  the  terrace,  and  sometimes  at  all  the  four, 
lofty  minarets  or  towers  arise,  either  of  octagonal  or 
circular  form,  and  usually  very  lofty.  At  Benares, 
two  are  upwards  of  two  hundred  feet  high  ; at  Agra, 
the  four  of  the  Taj  are  about  the  same  height,  and 
perhaps  some  of  the  minarets  here  are  nearly  as 
lofty.  They  are  generally  surmounted  by  an  open 
cupola. 

I went  through  the  palace  in  this  city,  in  which  all 
that  remains  of  the  former  splendid  Moghul  royalty 
now  resides.  Some  of  the  palaces,  temples,  mosques, 
and  tombs  are  imposing ; but  there  is  always  a 
strange  combination,  in  these  eastern  countries,  of 
greatness  and  meanness  in  the  public  buildings,  as  in 
other  things.  The  great  hall  of  audience,  for  ex- 
ample, with  its  large  court,  where  suppliant  kings 
and  ambassadors  formerly  knelt,  is  the  next  in 
series  to  a stable  yard,  from  which  it  is  separated 
only  by  a single  large  gate!  The  throne,  whence 
Aurengzebe  gave  laws  to  millions,  is  ascended  by  a 
dark  narrow  flight  of  rough  stone  steps  ; though  there 
was  another  and  better  entrance  to  it,  which  is  now 
walled  up.  The  throne  itself  is  now  covered  with 
defilement,  while  the  hall  of  audience  is  lumbered  up 
with  old  palanquins,  worn  out  carriages,  &c.  The 
present  Moghul  Emperor  has  no  authority  out  of  the 
palace,  and  seems  to  care  little  about  its  interior 
appearance,  provided  he  may  have  plenty  to  eat. 

• The  English  treat  him  with  a great  show  of  respect ; 
which  is  probably  the  z’eason  that  so  little  care  is 


126 


JOURNEY  TO  LOUIANA. 


given  to  keeping  things  in  better  order.  If  the 
palace  were  entirely  theirs,  there  is  little  doubt  that 
their  liberal  policy  would  secure  the  careful  preser- 
vation of  these  remains  of  the  former  greatness  of 
the  Moghul  dominion. 

“ The  missionary  here  is  Mr.  Thompson;  a good, 
intelligent,  judicious  man,  of  considerable  enterprise, 
and  much  respected  by  the  English  people.  He  has 
been  seventeen  years  at  this  city;  speaks  the  lan- 
guage, of  course,  as  it  is  his  mother  tongue,  with 
perfect  fluency;  and  is  very  diligent.  The  Lord 
has  granted  him  to  see  some  few  converts  from  the 
heathen.  He  was  once  at  Lodiana,  and  has  travelled 
much  on  missionary  tours  in  the  Upper  Provinces; 
I was  therefore  very  glad  to  hear  him  say  that  he 
considered  our  field  of  labor  the  finest  in  India. 

“ I went  about  fourteen  miles,  all  the  way  through 
ruins  of  the  old  city,  to  see  the  Kutab,  an  immense 
tower  of  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  height.  The 
view  from  the  top  of  it  is  fitted  to  awaken  strange 
and  painful  emotions.  For  miles  and  miles  around,  you 
see  scarcely  anything  but  the  ruins  of  former  great- 
ness. One  dilapidated  palace,  or  mosque,  or  tomb, 
after  another,  rises  in  the  view,  till  you  are  almost 
oppressed  at  seeing  such  manifold  evidences  of  the 
feebleness  of  man.  The  river  Jumna  terminates  the 
view  in  one  direction ; and,  though  here  but  a nar- 
row stream,  it  is  a perpetual  witness  of  the  power 
of  God  in  his  works,  who  can  preserve  as  well  as 
create.  * * * ” 


JOURNEY  TO  LODIANA. 


127 


November  5. — “ After  leaving  Kurnal,  one  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  north  of  Delhi,  I entered  the  terri- 
tory of  the  Protected  Sikh  States.  There  is  nothing, 
however,  in  the  appearance  of  the  towns,  or  in  the 
state  of  cultivation,  to  show  the  traveller  that  he  has 
left  the  Company’s  territory.  Enjoying  the  protec- 
tion of  British  influence,  this  region  seems  to  enjoy 
the  same  peace  and  degree  of  prosperity  that  dis- 
tinguish English  from  Native  rule  in  these  parts  of 
the  earth.  But  from  Cawnpore,  and  especially  from 
Delhi,  it  is  easy  to  see  that  the  inhabitants  are  a 
more  energetic,  warlike  people,  than  those  of  the 
lower  provinces.  You  meet  many  native  travellers, 
armed  with  swords,  spears,  or  matchlocks — some- 
times with  all  these  weapons.  They  are  large, 
strongly  built  men,  with  full  beards,  commonly  ; and 
often  look  savage  enough ; but  are  in  fact  very 
peaceable,  if  not  molested. 

“ Northward  of  Delhi,  the  soil  for  the  most  part  is 
very  sandy,  and  under  only  partial  cultivation. 
There  are  few  trees,  except  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  towns.  The  inhabitants  do  not  live,  as  we  should 
say,  ‘in  the  country;’  but  nearly  all  dwell  in  large 
towns,  which  are  mostly  walled.  This  circumstance, 
in  connexion  with  the  common  practice  of  carrying 
arms,  indicates  that  the  state  of  the  country  has 
formerly  been  very  unsettled  ; which  indeed  was  the 
case.  But  we  may  hope  those  days  have  passed 
away,  and  that  the  times  of  peace  which  have  suc- 
ceeded, will  afford  opportunity  to  introduce  the 
peaceful  reign  of  our  Saviour.” 

7 


128 


JOURNEY  TO  LODI  AN  A,  &.C. 


I reached  Lodiana,  my  post  of  missionary  duty, 
on  the  5th  of  November,  1834.  This  was  nearly 
eighteen  months  after  leaving  Philadelphia.  And 
it  serves  to  show  the  manner  in  which  distant 
places  have  been  connected  with  each  other,  by  the 
providence  of  Him  who  beholds  all  the  nations  of  the 
earth  at  one  view,  that  a messenger  from  churches 
in  the  western  hemisphere,  after  traversing  nearly 
seventeen  thousand  miles  of  the  broad  ocean,  and 
penetrating  thirteen  hundred  miles  further  towards 
the  heart  of  Asia,  should  at  last  find  his  sphere  of 
labor  in  a city  unknown  even  by  name  to  those  by 
whom  he  was  sent,  when  his  journey  was  at  first 
undertaken.  Our  neighbors  are  all  our  fellow  men 
whom  we  can  reach,  directly  or  indirectly,  to  do  them 
good  ; and  Christian  and  Heathen  nations  are  now 
so  related  to  each  other  that  the  multitudes  of  those 
who  are  “sitting  in  darkness  and  the  shadow  of 
death,”  though  living  in  distant  lands  and  of  a strange 
speech,  may  be  effectively  reached  by  the  benevo- 
lence of  their  more  favored  brethren.  We  may 
offer  to  them  the  blessed  gospel  if  we  are  so  inclined. 


EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 


129 


CHAPTER  IX. 

EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 

Lodiana — Sickness — English  Preaching — Importance  of  Schools — 
English  School  at  Lodiana. 

“ Lodiana  is  the  most  remote  of  the  English 
stations  in  India  on  the  North  West.  It  is  situated 
on  a small  nalla,  or  creek,  about  five  miles  from 
the  river  Sutlej,  which  forms  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  Panjab,  and  divides  the  territories  under  British 
influence  from  those  of  Ranjit  Singh,  the  ruler  of 
the  Sikhs  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  The  pre- 
sent population  of  Lodiana  is  estimated  at  from 
twenty  thousand  to  twenty-five  thousand ; and  is  on 
the  increase.  When  the  navigation  of  the  Indus  is 
freed  from  the  present  restraints,  which  will  most 
probably  be  within  another  year,  the  town  may  be 
expected  to  increase  considerably  ; *as  it  will  then 
become  one  of  the  marts  of  trade  with  countries 
down  the  Indus.  It  is  now  a place  of  considerable 
business  intercourse  with  the  countries  westward. 
Few  towns  have  so  varied  a population  in  people  and 
language.  There  are  two  regiments  of  infantry, 
and  one  troop  of  horse  artillery  here,  commanded, 
of  course,  by  English  officers  ; so  that  nearly  a hun- 


130 


EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 


dred  persons  use  the  English  language.  There  are 
probably  two  thousand  five  hundred  people  from 
Cashmere,  who  have  found  refuge  here  from  the 
famine  and  oppression  which  have  almost  desolated 
their  beautiful  native  valley.  There  are  about  one 
thousand  Afighans,  who  speak  Persian  chiefly.  The 
higher  classes,  of  whatever  nation,  in  this  part  of 
India  pride  themselves  on  speaking  Persian.  The 
Sikhs,  who,  both  on  this  side  of  the  Sutlej  and  on  the 
other,  form  about  one  tenth  of  the  population,  speak 
and  write  (when  they  can  write  at  all,  which  is  sel- 
dom the  case)  the  Gurmukhi  or  Panjabi  dialect, 
which  appears  to  be  formed  from  the  Hindui. 

“ In  regard  to  Lodiana,  as  a place  for  missionary 
operations,  I still  think  it  quite  desirable  to  have  a 
mission  established  here,  of  two  families  for  the  pre- 
sent ; that  is,  of  two  married  missionaries.  One  of 
them,  in  addition  to  the  Hindui,  should  possess  a 
knowledge  of  the  Panjabi.  The  other  to  Hindus- 
tani or  Urdu  should  add  Persian.  After  some  time, 
perhaps  one,  two,  or  three  years  at  the  farthest,  fa 
press  will  most  probably  be  nearly  indispensable. 
At  first,  the  missionaries  will  need  to  labor  in  a quiet 
way,  avoiding  professions  of  intention  to  convert 
the  natives,  but  watching  and  improving  the  oppor- 
tunities which  I have  no  doubt  will  be  constantly 
occurring  for  conversation,  distribution  of  portions 
of  the  Scriptures,  Tracts,  &c. 

“ One  thing  has  been  much  impressed  on  my  mind 
— the  importance  of  sending  some  person  to  make 
observation  before  a mission,  of  any  size  at  least,  is 


EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 


131 


resolved  on.  I find  that  actual  observation  has  cor- 
rected and  modified  my  views  of  this  field  of  mis- 
sionary labor  in  no  small  degree ; as  I shall  now 
briefly  describe  : 1.  The  way  does  not  seem  to  be 
yet  open  for  direct  efforts,  as  it  is,  for  instance,  in 
the  lower  provinces.  The  native  chiefs  on  this  side 
the  Sutlej,  and  Ranjit  Singh  on  the  other  side,  have 
still  the  power  to  prevent  an  intercourse  with  their 
people.  It  is  not  probable  that  they  would  attempt 
to  do  it,  if  quiet,  prudent  measures  were  pursued. 
2.  The  manner  in  which  the  population  is  distributed 
is  quite  different  from  what  I expected  to  find,  judg- 
ing from  other  parts  of  India.  The  people  chiefly 
dwell  in  large  towns,  often  considerably  distant  from 
each  other ; while  the  intervening  country  is  unin- 
habited. This  circumstance  may  afford  a better 
opportunity  ultimately  of  making  all  the  people 
acquainted  with  the  gospel.  3.  The  proportion  of 
those  who  embrace  the  religion  of  Mohammed  is 
much  larger  than  I had  supposed,  and  they  constitute 
the  better  classes  of  the  people.  The  Sikhs  form 
about  the  tenth  or  twelfth  part  of  the  people.  The 
great  majority  of  the  rest  are  Mussulmans.  There 
is  less  prospect  of  their  conversion  than  of  any  class  ; 
yet  ‘ the  arm  of  the  Lord  is  not  shortened,  that  it 
cannot  save.’  ” 

The  same  letter,  having  been  delayed  some  three 
weeks,  conveyed  the  news  of  sickness,  leading  after- 
wards to  an  entire  change  in  my  course  of  life  : 

“ What  a change  in  a man’s  prospects  and  hopes 


132 


EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 


is  sometimes  effected  by  the  events  and  the  informa- 
tion of  a few  days  ! Since  my  last  date,  I have  been 
ill  with  a severe  attack  of  congestion  of  the  liver. 
Through  the  favor  of  God,  the  means  used  have 
been  attended  with  so  much  success  that  I am  now 
able  to  sit  up  again,  at  least  during  part  of  the  day- 
For  about  a week,  I could  neither  read  nor  attend  to 
anything  ; I had  scarcely  strength  to  rise  from  my 
bed.  This  was  partly  owing  to  the  severe  course  of 
medicine  which  it  was  found  necessary  to  prescribe. 
But  I do  not  love  to  dwell  on  what  has  been  severe, 
there  has  been  so  much  goodness  mingled  with  this 
illness.  Though  a stranger,  I have  received  the 
kind  treatment  of  friendship.  I have  especially 
cause  for  thankfulness  in  having  had  the  services  of 
a skilful  and  experienced  surgeon.  My  mind  too 
has  been  kept  in  peace  ; and  now  that  I am  getting 
better,  I am  glad  to  have  a grateful  heart,  and  to  feel 
inclined  to  trust  in  the  Lord  with  renewed  confi- 
dence  The  Doctor  tells  me,  that  my 

constitution  will  not  suit  this  climate,  and  the  sooner 
I return  the  better.” 

On  recovering  from  the  severe  illness  referred  to 
in  this  letter,  I took  charge  of  a school  for  the  edu- 
cation of  native  boys  in  English,  and  also  of  a school 
for  the  children  of  the  Drummers,  Serjeants,  and 
Native  soldiers,  besides  conducting  public  worship  on 
the  Lord’s  Day,  attended  by  the  English  officers  and 
others  speaking  our  language. 

This  latter  service  was  very  well  attended,  and 


EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 


133 


was  an  important,  and  in  the  circumstances  then 
existing,  an  appropriate  sphere  of  duty.  Where  the 
Europeans  at  a station  are  disposed  to  attend  on  the 
ordinances  and  ministrations  of  religion,  it  is  decidedly 
important  to  have  these  services  established.  Not 
to  insist  that  their  spiritual  interests  should  never  be 
neglected  any  more  thart  those  of  other  men,  their 
official  standing  and  their  superior  character  give 
them  every  advantage  for  promoting  the  welfare  of 
the  natives,  both  by  their  own  efforts  directly,  as 
representing  our  common  religion,  and  by  the  coun- 
tenance and  co-operation  which  they  can  give  to 
the  missionary.  There  may  be  in  some  cases  an 
impropriety  in  a missionary’s  undertaking  such  duties, 
especially  where  chaplains  are  already  officiating  ; 
and  in  no  case  should  missionaries  turn  aside  from 
their  proper  vocation,  in  the  hope  of  greater  use- 
fulness amongst  the  comparatively  few  Europeans  at 
their  station.  Their  work  is  a special  one,  and  it  is 
clearly  defined  by  the  commission  under  which  they 
act : it  must  not  be  thrown  into  the  shade  by  any 
other  undertaking.  As  they  have  opportunity,  how- 
ever, they  must  do  good  unto  all  men  ; and  the  main 
difficulty  will  often  be,  to  know  how  to  give  a due 
share  of  their  time  and  labor  to  the  numerous  claims 
which  are  made  on  them.  The  greatest  usefulness 
in  the  long  run  to  the  greatest  number  must  be  their 
aim.  In  my  own  instance,  there  could  be  no  difficulty 
about  giving  a part  of  my  time  to  this  English 
service,  as  I had  been  constrained  to  relinquish  the 


234 


EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 


study  of  the  native  language,  by  the  slight  prospect 
of  being  able  to  continue  long  in  the  country. 

The  English  school  had  been  set  on  foot  by  Cap- 
tain now  Colonel  Sir  C.  M.  Wade,  the  Political 
Agent,  a few  months  before  I reached  Lodiana,  and 
had  been  placed  under  one  of  his  native  clerks,  with 
the  design  of  transferring  it  to  my  care  when  I should 
arrive.  Some  fourteen  or  sixteen  native  boys  had 
been  in  attendance.  After  a few  weeks  the  number 
was  increased  to  about  fifty,  of  whom  some  were  the 
sons  of  two  or  three  native  chiefs,  and  other  respec- 
table native  gentlemen  ; some  of  them  were  Hindus, 
others  Affghans,  others  Cashmerians,  and  a few 
Sikhs ; speaking,  amongst  them,  the  Hindui,  Hin- 
dustani, Gurmukhi,  Pushto,  Persian,  and  Cashmerian 
languages.  By  giving  two  or  three  hours  a day  to 
the  superintendence  of  the  school,  and  with  the  valu- 
able service  of  an  Indo-British  teacher,  the  progress 
of  the  scholars  was  very  creditable  to  themselves, 
and  gratifying  to  their  generous  patron.  Captain 
Wade,  and  other  European  visitors. 

Several  of  these  youths  evinced  no  ordinary 
degree  of  capacity,  and  most  of  them  were  of  clever 
abilities.  All  were  uniformly  respectful  in  their 
behavior,  and  after  a little  training  became  studious 
and  some  of  them  earnest  in  their  attention  to  their 
books.  It  was  delightful  to  look  on  their  animated 
faces,  and  see  their  eyes  kindle  as  they  received 
knowledge  daily  to  which  before  they  had  been 
strangers.  And  when  their  confidence  had  been 


EVENTS  AT  LoblANA. 


135 


gained,  they  appeai'ed  to  regard  me  with  mingled 
respect  and  affection,  and  to  receive  my  instructions 
with  apparently  perfect  faith.  I advert  to  this, 
though  at  the  risk  of  appearing  to  speak  my  own 
praise,  for  a special  reason — to  show  how  invaluable 
are  the  opportunities  afforded  to  a missionary  by 
such  a school  for  promoting  the  great  object  of  his 
mission.  He  has  a most  hopeful  charge,  a company 
of  youths  whose  minds  are  as  yet  but  partially  under 
the  influence  of  heathen  opinions  and  associations. 
The  influence  of  their  families,  out  of  school,  is 
doubtless  strongly  unfavorable,  but  this  weighty 
hinderance  is  perhaps  more  decidedly  felt  by  adults 
than  by  children  in  India.  And  opportunities  will 
occur  every  day  of  correcting  the  false  views  which 
prevail  around  them,  and  imparting  clear  and  con- 
nected instruction  concerning  the  Christian  religion, 
while  all  the  teaching  of  the  missionary  is  enforced 
by  his  example,  and  rendered  almost  sacred  in  the 
eyes  of  the  scholars  by  their  high  views  of  his  cha- 
racter. 

The  importance  of  Christian  schools  becomes  still 
more  apparent  when  we  recollect  that  the  main  hope 
of  success  in  our  endeavors  to  convert  any  heathen 
people,  so  far  as  the  use  of  means  is  concerned,  con- 
sists in  preparing  native  agents  who  shall  preach 
the  gospel  to  their  countrymen.  These  must  be 
chosen  and  qualified,  in  heathen  as  in  Christian 
countries,  chiefly  amongst  the  youth.  Missionaries 
from  foreign  countries  are  indispensable  in  the  first 
instance.  It  is  theirs  to  sow  the  seed,  to  plant  Chris- 


136 


EVENTS  AT  LODlANA, 


tian  institutions,  to  organize  and  train  the  army  of 
native  soldiers  of  the  cross,  and  for  a while  to  be  the 
officers  of  “ the  sacramental  host.”  All  this  they 
are  now  doing  in  India.  But  they  labor  under  great 
disadvantages.  Their  numbers  are  too  small ; they 
are  and  ever  must  be  regarded  as  foreigners,  imper* 
fectly  acquainted  with  the  language,  the  usages,  and 
the  habits  of  mental  association  of  the  people ; they 
cannot  live  but  at  great  expense,  compared  with  the 
cost  of  supporting  a native  missionary ; they  are 
poorly  fitted  by  their  previous  habits  and  by  their 
having  been  brought  up  in  colder  countries,  for  re*- 
sisting  the  insidious  and  too  often  fatal  influence  of 
the  Indian  climate:  these  and  similar  considerations 
will  ever  preclude  the  hope  of  the  conversion  of  the 
Hindus  by  a purely  foreign  agency,  and  they  show 
the  necessity  of  directing  our  endeavors  to  the 
training  of  a native  ministry,  on  whom  must  finally 
devolve  the  great  work  of  evangelizing  India.  The 
limited  experience  of  European  missionaries  in  India 
would,  it  seems  to  me,  fully  support  these  views. 
Those  missions  and  missionaries  have  been  most 
successful,  which  employed  the  largest  and  best 
trained  force  of  native  assistants.  And  it  is  very 
satisfactory  to  know  that  within  the  last  few  years, 
these  doctrines  have  been  more  fully  recognised  by 
missionary  societies  than  formerly.  We  may  indulge 
brighter  hopes,  therefore,  of  future  success.  Indeed 
it  has  always  appeared  to  me  surprising  that  objec- 
tions should  be  made  against  missionaries  having 
the  charge  of  schools  among  the  heathen — espe- 


EVENTS  AT  LODIANA. 


137 


dally  in  India,  where  nearly  all  the  native  writings, 
no  matter  how  erroneous,  have  a sacred  charac- 
ter, and  where  all  the  instructions  of  the  missionary, 
even  concerning  geography  or  astronomy,  have  a 
direct  influence  in  overthrowing  the  great  fabric  of 
Hindu  superstition.  In  every  heathen  country,  the 
missionary’s  schools  are  his  churches,  the  scholars  his 
congregation,  and  every  day  is  hallowed  by  him  in 
communicating  Christian  knowledge.  It  cannot  be 
contended  that  preaching  the  gospel,  which  is  doubt- 
less the  one  great  object  of  the  missionary’s  life,  is  to 
be  restricted  to  the  forms  of  stated  public  worship 
which  have  been  matured  in  old  Christian  communi- 
ties— to  preaching  elaborate  sermons,  for  example, 
delivered  from  a pulpit  to  the  people  sitting  below  in 
pews.  There  could  have  been  very  little  preaching  of 
this  kind  in  the  Apostolic  age,  or  in  times  of  persecu- 
tion afterwards.  Divine  truth  may  undoubtedly  be 
preached  without  the  presence  of  the  forms  which 
we  so  justly  revere.  It  may  be  made  known  by  a 
public  and  authorized  person  in  many  other  ways. 
It  may  be  taught  by  the  gift  of  the  Sacred  Volume 
with  a few  words  of  kind  advice ; it  may  be  pro- 
claimed with  a loud  voice  in  the  midst  of  the  con- 
fused multitude,  pressing  madly  after  their  idols ; it 
may  be  preached  to  a few  natives  under  the  shade 
of  a banyan  tree,  by  the  missionary’s  earnest  talking 
with  them  ; it  may  be  announced  in  quietness  and 
peace  in  the  humble  mission  chapel,  to  a little  com- 
pany of  patient  hearers  ; and  we  should  be  thankful 
for  all  these  ways  of  preaching  good  news  to  our 


188 


EVENTS  AT  L0DIANA, 


fellow  men.  Why  should  we  feel  less  thankful  that 
the  gospel  may  be  taught  daily  to  children,  teachably 
and  hopefully  waiting  on  the  lips  of  well  known  and 
beloved  instructors  ? If  there  have  been  schools  in 
which  a decided  Christian  influence  has  not  been 
exerted,  I am  not  their  advocate ; but  when  properly 
conducted,  schools  certainly  afford  most  important 
facilities  for  advancing  the  object  which  the  Church 
has  in  view  in  her  missions  to  the  heathen.  At  the 
same  time,  I am  well  aware  that  serious  difficulties 
may  often  exist  to  hinder  the  usefulness  of  schools,  and 
even  to  prevent  their  being  taken  under  the  mis- 
sionary’s care. 

If  I have  dwelt  too  long  on  this  topic,  it  has  been 
only  in  part  on  account  of  its  deep  importance  to 
the  successful  prosecution  of  the  missionary  work 
I have  also  wished  to  secure  the  reader’s  greater 
interest  in  the  school,  with  which  our  efforts  among 
the  natives  at  Lodiana  were  commenced.  Its  early 
history  has  given  pleasing  evidence  of  the  favor  of 
God  towards  our  mission. 

At  first,  however,  there  seemed  to  be  no  little 
uncertainty  about  its  prospects,  and  whether  indeed 
it  should  become  a mission  school  This  may 
appear  surprising  to  the  reader  who  recollects  the 
account  given  by  Mr.  Reed  and  myself  in  our  letter 
to  the  Society,  from  which  an  extract  has  been 
given  on  a previous  page ; but  that  letter  conveyed 
only  the  impressions  made  by  the  information  we 
had  then  received.  Now,  I found  that  among  the 


EVENTS  AT  L0D1ANA. 


13$ 


Europeans  in  the  Upper  Provinces  there  was  much 
apprehension  about  connecting  religious  instruction 
with  the  education  of  the  natives  ; and  some  men, 
of  liberal  views  too,  were  decidedly  opposed  to  such 
a union,  at  least  at  this  time.  The  general  policy 
of  the  government  colleges,  in  which  the  Christian 
religion  is  no  more  recognised  than  the  Mohamme- 
dan or  any  other,  should  be  followed  with  special 
care,  it  was  argued,  amongst  a people  so  partially 
under  subjection  to  the  British  as  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Protected  Sikh  States,  and  a people  moreover  of 
so  much  independence,  not  to  say  recklessness  of 
character.  The  popularity  of  these  colleges  among 
the  natives  was  everywhere  acknowledged,  but  the 
successful  rel  igious  institutions  of  learning  in  Calcutta, 
attended  largely  by  native  youths  of  the  highest  castes, 
were  not  so  well  known  in  the  Upper  Provinces,  or 
not  considered  examples  to  be  imitated  where  the  cir- 
cumstances were  so  different.  And  it  was  easy, 
starting  from  premises  like  these,  to  form  quite  an 
array  of  objections,  which  I doubt  not  were  sincerely 
felt,  against  attempting  to  combine  religion  and 
education  in  schools  for  the  natives.  Religious  pre- 
judices would  be  aroused,  disaffection  might  be 
created  against  the  government,  and  the  improve- 
ment of  the  natives  retarded  by  premature  zeal ; 
these  were  opinions  which  it  is  not  strange  that  men 
should  form  in  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  these 
provinces.  I esteemed  myself  highly  fortunate  in 
having  to  consult  with  a gentleman  of  such  enlarged 
and  correct  views,  and  of  such  general  zeal  for  the 


140 


EVENTS  AT  LotUANA. 


good  of  the  natives,  as  were  evinced  by  the  Political 
Agent  at  Lodiana.  With  many  other  men  it  might 
have  been  impracticable  for  me  to  have  had  any 
connexion  with  the  English  school  at  that  place,  as 
I could  not  consent  to  take  the  responsible  charge  of 
an  institution  from  which  our  holy  religion  was  to 
be  utterly  excluded.  After  mature  reflection,  the 
school  was  fully  placed  under  my  control,  and  its 
studies  were  directed  by  a settled  plan.  No  profes- 
sions of  our  object  were  ostentatiously  made,  but  on 
the  other  hand  no  concealment  of  our  views  was 
attempted,  nor  was  there  any  withholding  of  religious 
instruction.  No  alarm  was  awakened  among  either 
Hindus,  Mussulmans,  or  Sikhs ; and  the  school, 
after  a fair  trial,  was  considered  a successful  effort. 
At  least,  a favorable  beginning  had  been  made,  though 
another  and  hardly  less  critical  decision  as  to  its 
permanent  character  was  yet  to  be  given. 

Thus  far  there  was  abundant  ground  for  acknow- 
ledging the  hand  of  God  for  good  towards  our  mission, 
and,  we  trust,  towards  the  native  inhabitants.  It 
would  have  been  a matter  of  deep  regret,  if  the  first 
efforts  in  this  new  sphere  of  education  had  been 
established  on  the  contracted  policy  of  excluding 
that  instruction,  without  which  all  other  teaching  is 
incomplete  and  unsatisfactory;  thereby  awakening 
or  confirming  a host  of  prejudices,  and  closing  the 
door  against  the  most  valuable  opportunities  of  im- 
parting religious  knowledge  to  those,  who  were  soon 
to  wield  the  highest  native  influence.  Indeed  so 
grave  was  the  complexion  of  this  matter,  that  I could 


EVENTS  AT  L06IANA. 


141 


not  but  seriously  doubt  the  expediency  of  remaining 
at  Lodiana,  unless  it  could  be  satisfactorily  adjusted. 
This  was  evidently  the  first  thing  to  be  done,  as 
matters  then  stood  in  that  city  ; and  not  to  have  had 
the  supervision  of  whatever  was  done  or  attempted 
might  have  proved  in  many  ways  embarrassing. 
But  whatever  fears  I might  have  been  constrained 
to  indulge,  not  so  much  from  the  views  of  Europeans 
at  this  city  as  from  the  general  considerations  already 
referred  to,  I could  not  but  acknowledge  with  lively 
gratitude  the  favor  of  Him,  who  disposes  and  governs 
all  the  counsels  of  men  according  to  his  own  holy 
will.  Nor  could  I fail  to  be  grateful  to  those  Euro- 
peans of  the  station,  and  particularly  to  the  Political 
Agent,  Captain  Wade,  who  in  this  instance  as  in  all 
others  proved  himself  a cordial  and  efficient  friend 
of  our  mission. 


142 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


CHAPTER  X. 

TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 

Information  desired — Invitation  from  Raniit  Singh — Manner  of  trd- 
veiling — Appearance  of  the  country — Paghwarah— Dancing  girls— 
Villages— Cities— Interview  with  a Native  Chief — River  Bias— 
Cashmerian  emigrants — Sacred  reservoir  at  Amritsir  ; visit  of  a 
Native  Chief. 

Those  who  are  engaged  in  establishing  a new 
mission,  should  seek  earnestly  for  such  information 
as  shall  enable  them  wisely  to  form  their  plans  of 
proceeding.  They  should  know  the  numbers  of  the 
people  amongst  whom  they  are  to  labor ; their  cha- 
racter, business,  usages,  learning,  government,  laws* 
state  of  society,  chief  towns  and  cities,  and  other 
matters  affecting  their  condition,  and  especially  their 
religion  and  its  institutions  and  observances.  These 
things  influence  greatly  the  efforts,  both  in  kind  and 
extent,  which  the  missionary  should  undertake  for 
their  welfare.  Entertaining  this  opinion,  I endea- 
vored to  collect  information  on  these  points  from 
every  quarter  ; particularly  after  the  physician,  to 
whose  kind  and  valuable  services  I was  so  deeply 
indebted,  had  given  his  opinion  as  to  the  necessity 
of  my  returning  home.  As  our  mission  had  a spe- 


TOUR  TO  LAIIOR. 


143 


cial  reference  to  the  Sikh  people  who  inhabit  these 
north-western  parts  of  India,  and  as  most  of  the 
Sikh  tribes  live  in  the  Panjab,  or  country  between 
the  Sutlej  and  the  Indus,  under  the  government  of 
Maha  Rajah  Ranjit  Singh,  and  are  seldom  visited  by 
foreigners,  I was  anxious  to  make  a tour  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Sutlej.  I soon  learned  that  there 
was  little  prospect  of  being  able  to  make  such  a 
journey.  Through  jealousy  of  foreign  influence, 
Ranjit  was  reluctant  to  permit  Europeans  and  other 
foreigners  to  enter  his  territories ; and  to  avoid 
giving  umbrage  to  a ruler  of  so  much  power,  the 
British  authorities  did  not  authorize  foreigners  to 
cross  the  Sutlej,  except  in  special  instances.  I had 
therefore  reluctantly  to  relinquish  the  project  of 
making  inquiries  in  the  Panjab  itself.  The  reader 
will  judge  then  of  my  surprise  and  gratification  at 
receiving  from  the  Maha  Raja  an  invitation  to  pay 
him  a visit  at  Lahor ! He  had  heard  of  me  and  of 
our  English  school  through  his  Vakil  at  Lodiana; 
and  with  his  invitation  he  made  a proposal  that  I 
should  spend  six  months  of  the  year  at  his  capital, 
to  take  charge  of  the  education  of  a number  of  the 
young  Sikh  noblemen,  the  sons  of  chiefs.  I should 
have  been  delighted  to  have  accepted  this  proposal, 
if  the  state  of  my  health  would  at  all  have  justified 
my  living  on  the  plains ; it  presented  a fine  prospect 
of  obtaining  a standing  and  influence,  which  would 
have  been  invaluable  to  a missionary.  And  in  re- 
flecting on  the  past,  I have  been  disposed  to  regret 
that  I had  not  consented  at  whatever  risk  ; but  the 


144 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


physician’s  advice  was  imperative.  I must  repair  to 
the  hills  on  the  approach  of  the  hot  season,  as  the 
only  means  of  preventing  another  attack,  which  in 
the  warm  season  would  probably  prove  extremely 
dangerous,  if  not  fatal.  I was  constrained  therefore 
to  decline  the  proposal,  and  as  the  invitation  was 
connected  with  it,  I much  feared  that  my  declining 
the  one  would  prevent  a renewal  of  the  other, 
though  in  acknowledging  the  honor  of  the  invitation, 
I expressed  myself  as  anxious  to  be  permitted  to 
come  and  pay  my  duty  to  “ the  great  King.” 

The  invitation  was  repeated,  and  the  visit  to 
Lahor  was  shortly  afterwards  made.  Of  this  tour  I 
took  notes  at  the  time,  which  will  serve  to  give  a 
better  view  of  the  condition  of  the  Panjib,  than  I 
could  present  in  any  other  form. 

January  28,  1835. — Agreeably  to  an  arrangement 
previously  made,  I set  out  this  afternoon  on  the 
journey  to  Lahor.  An  elephant  had  been  sent  from 
that  city,  to  carry  the  tents ; and  another  which  the 
Maha  Rajah  keeps  at  Lodiana,  was  assigned  for  my 
use  to  ride.  The  latter  is  a noble  animal,  being  nine 
or  ten  feet  in  height.  On  his  back  is  placed  the 
Howdah,  a kind  of  buggy-like  frame,  but  without  a 
hood,  and  having  two  seats.  The  front  one  is 
richly  ornamented,  with  silk  cushions,  of  a yellow 
color,  the  favorite  color  of  the  Sikhs ; and  affords 
sufficient  room  for  two  persons.  Behind  it  is  a 
lower  seat  for  a servant,  either  for  parade  or  to  hold 
an  umbrella  wheu  necessary.  The  driver  sits  on 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


145 


the  neck  immediately  before  the  howdah,  while  one 
or  two  assistants  run  by  the  side  of  the  elephant, 
carrying  goads,  or  iron  sticks,  to  guide  the  animal 
or  quicken  his  pace.  The  motion  is  not  a pleasant 
one  to  persons  not  used  to  it.  He  goes  at  a kind  of 
walking  gait,  as  if  trampling  on  round  stones,  and 
apparently  so  much  at  his  leisure  as  to  lead  one  to 
think  he  was  making  little  progress.  In  truth,  how- 
ever, the  horsemen  in  company,  of  whom  there  are 
ten  assigned  as  guards,  are  obliged  to  amble  along 
(for  the  Hindus  seldom  trot)  four  or  five  miles  an 
hour,  to  keep  up  with  him. 

Before  mentioning  the  elephants  and  the  horse- 
men, I should  have  introduced  the  Persian  Munshi, 
or  Secretary,  who  goes  with  me  as  interpreter. 
He  is  a Mussulman  Hindu,  who  has  acquired  a 
pretty  good  knowledge  of  our  language  at  the  Eng- 
lish College  at  Delhi.  He  will  be  of  great  use  to 
me  ; as,  in  addition  to  the  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage, he  is  acquainted  with  the  customs  of  the 
people,  and  his  pleasing  manners  render  him  not  un- 
acceptable as  a companion. 

There  are  no  hotels  in  this  country ; so  that  in 
travelling  it  is  necessary  to  take  everything  along 
that  is  needed  for  cooking,  sleeping,  &c.  And  such 
is  the  division  of  labor  among  different  castes,  who 
will  not  do  anything  but  what  pertains  to  their  own 
class,  that  it  requires  no  small  number  of  men  to 
form  an  establishment.  Thus,  our  present  company 
amounts  to  about  sixty  persons,  including  myself, 


146 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


munshi,  horseguard,  and  our  respective  domestic 
servants,  with  tent-pitchers,  attendants  for  the  ele- 
phants, horses,  &c.  Large  as  this  number  appears 
to  be,  I have  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  it  is 
smaller  than  the  attendance  of  most  European  tra- 
vellers in  the  Panjab. 

Crossing  the  Nallah,  or  moderate  sized  stream,  of 
clear  beautiful  water,  which  flows  almost  half  round 
Lodiana,  our  road  led  through  fields  of  grain,  cover- 
ing the  level  sandy  plains  with  a carpet  of  green. 
We  passed  two  or  three  small,  ill-looking  villages, 
where  the  mud-houses  of  the  people,  their  cattle,  and 
their  grain,  were  all  jumbled  closely  together,  and 
surrounded  by  a low  clay  wali.  At  five  or  six  miles’ 
distance,  we  came  to  the  river  Sutlej.  The  water 
flows  along  in  a naked  channel  through  the  sandy 
plains,  which  characterize  this  part  of  India.  There 
are  a great  many  shoals,  or  sand-banks,  in  the  chan- 
nel, which  make  their  appearance  at  this  time  of 
year  ; yet  in  the  main  channel  there  is  rather  a 
strong  current,  and  about  ten  feet  depth  of  water. 
During  the  rainy  season,  the  waters  of  this  river  are 
spread  over  the  country  two  or  three  miles  in 
breadth.  Formerly,  it  ran  past  Lodiana,  where  the 
Nallah  now  runs  ; but  it  forsook  that  channel  some 
fifty  years  ago — an  occurrence  which  one  may  sup- 
pose would  not  be  unfrequent,  as  the  water  receives 
a rapid  impulse  in  the  mountainous  regions,  and  the 
sandy  soil  of  the  plains  opposes  but  feeble  resistance 
to  its  progress.  The  ancient  name  of  this  river  was 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


147 


Satudar,  whence  Hesudrus.  It  is  the  most  eastern 
of  the  five  rivers  from  which  the  name  Panjab*  is 
derived,  and  forms  the  boundary  on  the  east  of  that 
part  of  India.  After  continuing  its  course  forty  miles 
from  this  place,  it  receives  the  Bias,  the  ancient  Hy- 
phasis,  the  second  river  of  the  Panjab,  counting  from 
the  east ; and  thence,  the  united  stream  is  called  the 
Gharra.  At  Uch,  lower  down  to  the  southwest,  the 
river  formed  by  the  other  three  rivers  of  the  Panjab 
joins  the  Gharra ; and  thenceforward,  the  name  is 
Panjnad,  which  falls  into  the  Indus  at  Mithon  Khot. 
We  crossed  the  Sutlej  at  a town  called  Filor,  on 
the  opposite  bank,  where  there  is  a fort  of  some 
strength,  garrisoned  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
and  a population  of  six  or  seven  thousand  persons, 
chiefly  Mussulmans.  Here  we  encamped  for  the 
night  on  the  open  plain  near  the  town. 

January  29. — We  started  this  morning  at  7£ 
o’clock,  and  came  to  Paghwarah,  ten  kos,  or  about 
thirteen  miles.  The  road  led  us  past  six  or  seven 
villages : some  of  them  large,  containing  probably 
two  or  three  thousand  inhabitants  each.  Many  others 
were  in  sight,  and  several  had  small  forts,  of  no  great 
strength.  Paghwarah  contains  probably  fifteen  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  The  houses  and  public  buildings 
make  a better  appearance  than  is  usual  in  cities  of 
India,  a larger  portion  of  them  being  of  brick  than 
is  common.  The  people  are  chiefly  Hindus  ; the 
Mussulmans  have  two  mosques  ; and  there  are  two 


* From  two  India  words,  panj  five  ; and  ab  water. 


148 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


or  three  hundred  Sikhs.  So  we  are  informed  by  the 
chief  man  of  the  town,  himself  a Sikh.  There  are 
a few  Persian  and  Sanscrit  schools  at  this  town, 
attended  by  a few  scholars  each.  The  chief  trade 
of  the  people  is  in  the  common  white  sugar  of  the 
country.  The  fort  presents  a formidable  appearance 
at  a distance.  We  did  not  go  near  enough  to  examine 
it  closely. 

In  the  afternoon,  a company  of  Nach  girls  came 
to  the  place  where  our  tents  were  pitched  on  the 
plain,  wishing  to  exhibit  their  skill  in  dancing,  in  order 
to  obtain  a present.  There  were  about  twenty  of 
them,  attended  by  two  or  three  men  with  instruments 
of  music.  All  were  unveiled,  and  were  dressed  in 
their  richest  finery.  Nearly  all  were  quite  young, 
probably  not  more  than  ten  or  eleven  years  of  age. 
As  I did  not  wish  to  give  them  any  encouragement, 
they  went  away  apparently  much  disappointed. 

This  class  of  girls  is  to  be  found  in  all  the  large 
towns  and  cities  of  India.  Their  profession,  from 
which  they  receive  their  name,  is  that  of  dancing 
and  singing ; in  which  they  are  employed  at  all 
feasts  and  joyous  occasions.  The  Hindus  consider 
such  amusements  very  disgraceful  in  themselves ; 
though  they  take  great  delight  in  witnessing  the  per- 
formance of  others.  These  poor  girls  are  universally 
of  disreputable  character;  and  their  number  and 
style  of  dress  afford  one  of  many  proofs,  that  impur- 
ity extensively  prevails  among  this  people.  It  is 
said  that  their  songs  and  dancing  are  often  very 
indecent.  This  general  subject  is  a painful  one  to 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


149 


every  Christian  mind,  and  requires  the  veil  of  silence 
to  be  drawn  over  most  of  its  aspects.  Yet  it  would 
be  a want  of  faithfulness  in  missionaries  not  to  advert 
to  it  at  all ; as  thereby  one  of  the  most  prominent 
evils  of  Heathenism  would  fail  to  be  rightly  under- 
stood. If  any  of  the  views,  however,  which  may  be 
presented,  admit  minuteness  of  statement  and  call 
for  peculiar  concern,  it  is  the  affecting  truth  that  the 
great  majority  of  this  class  are  so  very  young.  It 
not  only  shows  that  they  are  early  initiated  into  the 
grossest  vice,  but  that  their  course  in  it  is  brief. 
Soon  they  are  discarded,  wander  about  as  beggars, 
and  perish  miserably. 

January  30. — Jalandar,  about  thirteen  miles.  We 
started  at  six  o’clock.  The  morning  was  cold 
and  frosty,  the  thermometer  standing  at  32°  in  the 
open  air.  We  passed  two  large  villages,  and  saw 
several  others  at  a short  distance  ; from  one  part  of 
the  road,  no  less  than  six,  all  of  them  but  four  or  five 
miles  apart,  and  connected  together  by  the  greenly 
covered  field  of  grain.  At  one  of  them  there  is  a 
large  mosque. 

The  appearance  of  villages  in  the  northern  parts 
of  India  is  almost  everywhere  the  same.  If  rising 
ground  can  be  obtained,  they  are  placed  on  the 
highest  part ; which  however,  is  seldom  more  than 
a few  feet  elevated  above  the  vast  surrounding 
plains.  The  houses  are  almost  always  built  of  clay 
or  mud,  as  is  the  wall  which  commonly  incloses  the 
town.  There  is  greater  neatness  and  cleanliness  in 
the  interior  of  these  villages  than  a person  would 


150 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


expect  to  see ; but  on  the  outside  of  the  walls  there 
is  much  to  offend  more  senses  than  one.  I have 
often  been  reminded  of  the  expression  in  Revela- 
tion, “without  are  dogs.’’  These  animals  are  by  no 
means  held  in  such  estimation  in  this  country  as 
among  western  nations.  Many  of  them  run  wild, 
or  unclaimed  by  any  owner ; and  often  they  may  be 
seen,  half-starved,  sneaking,  and  stupid  in  their 
appearance,  preying  on  the  filthy,  putrid  matters  that 
are  thrown  over  the  walls. 

The  cultivated  plains  over  which  we  are  travelling 
are  said  to  yield  two  crops  in  the  year ; the  first,  of 
wheat  and  barley,  sown  in  November,  and  reaped  in 
April ; the  second,  of  different  kinds  of  a native 
grain,  generally  called  dal,  sown  or  planted  in  July, 
and  gathered  in  October.  The  seed  of  the  dal  is 
used  by  the  natives  for  food,  and  the  stalks  make 
fodder  for  the  cattle.  The  wheat  and  barley  seem 
to  be  cultivated  with  great  care.  Often  it  is  planted 
in  rows  a few  inches,  apart ; and  frequently  the  seed 
has  been  so  deposited  as  to  spring  up  in  bunches  or 
clusters  of  two  or  three  stalks  each. 

Before  reaching  our  stage  to-day,  we  met  a string 
of  sixty  or  seventy  camels,  loaded  with  salt.  They 
travel  in  “ Indian  file,”  a cord  being  attached  either 
from  the  crupper  or  tail  of  the  first,  to  the  nose  of 
the  second,  and  so  on.  The  salt  is  brought  from 
Dadal  Khan  ka  Pind,  a place  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Jilum,  .upwards  of  one  hundred  miles  from  Lahor 
to  the  northwest.  There  is  a range  of  salt  hills,  in 
which,  at  some  distance  and  partly  descending,  the 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


151 


salt  is  found  in  solid  mass  of  a reddish  color.  It 
is  dug  with  sledges  and  hammers,  and  exported  to 
all  parts  of  the  Panjab ; yielding  a revenue  at  the 
mines,  it  is  said,  of  more  than  a million  and  a half 
of  rupees. 

Jalander,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  our  ten  s are 
pitched  to-day,  is  a large,  substantial  looking  city. 
It  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Lodi  race  of 
Affghan  kings,  from  whom  the  town  of  Lodiana 
takes  its  name,  who  have  left  many  traces  of  their 
having  made  this  place  their  home.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a high  wall,  partly  of  brick  with  bastions,  and 
partly  of  clay, — has  a large  fort,  and  many  brick 
houses.  The  population  is  said  to  be  forty  thousand  ; 
chiefly  Hindus,  with  some  Mussulmans  and  a few 
Sikhs.  The  country  is  highly  cultivated,  and  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  are  numerous  gardens,  mango, 
pomegranate,  orange,  and  rose  trees.  Our  tents  are 
near  three  large  tombs,  erected  to  perpetuate  the 
names  of  former  kings.  But  their  remembrance  has 
passed  away,  and  their  memorials  are  fast  sharing 
the  same  lot,  being  in  a very  ruinous  condition.  I 
estimated  the  smallest  one  to  be  forty  feet  square, 
and  twenty-five  to  the  commencement  of  the  dome. 
The  other  two  are  larger,  and  of  different  structure ; 
but  are  also  surmounted  by  domes.  This  circum- 
stance is  proof  itself  of  the  Mussulman  faith  of  their 
builders.  They  seem  to  be  very  fond  of  this  kind 
of  structure,  probably  because  it  forms  so  large  a 
part  of  the  ornamental  roofs  of  their  sacred  temple 
at  Mekka.  They  place  domes,  in  this  country,  on 

8 


152 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


the  tops  of  nearly  all  their  mosques ; usually  three ; 
and  on  their  tombs  and  other  public  buildings. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  Thanadar,  or  Governor  of 
the  city,  came  to  pay  his  respects  to  me.  He  was 
attended  by  several  of  the  chief  men,  and  a Crowd  of 
guards  with  long  spears,  making  a little  forest  of 
sharp  points  over  their  heads.  I was  indebted  for 
this  mark  of  respect  to  my  character  as  an  English- 
man, for  such  they  think  I am,  and  to  my  travelling 
through  the  country  at  the  Maha  Rajah’s  invitation. 
The  custom  is  for  inferiors  of  respectability,  in 
approaching  a person  whom  they  regard  as  superior, 
to  offer  a rupee  or  two  on  the  folded  corner  of  their 
mantle.  This  was  done  this  afternoon;  but  I think 
it  best,  after  recognising  their  civility,  to  decline 
receiving  the  present.  It  is  only  meant  as  a matter 
of  form.  After  making  some  inquiries,  I distributed 
tracts  to  those  among  them  who  could  read  ; which 
were  accepted  with  many  thanks  ; chiefly,  I suppose, 
because  they  look  on  me  as  their  superior,  so  that  it 
is  a mark  of  favor  from  me.  I am  thankful,  that 
this  adventitious  dignity  will  probably  secure  a 
careful  perusal  of  these  silent  messengers  of  salva- 
tion. 

January  31. — To  Kaphurtalah,  twelve  miles. 
Soon  after  starting  this  morning,  we  passed  two  of 
the  twelve  pakka  villages  which  belong  to  the  city_of 
Jalander.  Their  houses  and  walls  are  all  built  of 
burnt  bricks,  whence  the  name  pakka,  which  gives 
them  a very  superior  appearance  to  that  of  many 
Hindu  villages.  None  of  them  are  more  than  five 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


153 


miles  from  the  city.  The  district  of  Jalandar,  includ- 
ing the  city,  is  farmed  for  its  revenue  by  a Sikh 
chief,  who  pays  two  hundred  thousand  rupees  annu- 
ally for  the  privilege  to  Ranjit  Singh.  When  we 
got  within  a mile  of  our  halting  place,  we  were  met 
by  a vakil,  or  kind  of  ambassador,  of  the  Chief  of 
this  part  of  the  country,  mounted  on  an  elephant,  and 
accompanied  by  eight  or  ten  foot  soldiers  with  their 
muskets,  who  presented  arms  as  a salute,  and  then 
went  before  us,  the  vakil  riding  by  our  side.  For 
this  mark  of  respect  we  may  thank,  partly  the  cir- 
cumstances under  which  I make  the  journey,  and 
partly  the  custom  of  the  country.  We  were  con- 
ducted to  a large,  and  for  this  country  a well-built, 
dwelling  in  a garden,  some  distance  outside  of  the 
walls  of  the  city,  where  the  Chief  washed  me  to  take 
up  my  quarters. 

Fatteh  Singh,  the  Sardar,  or  Chief  of  Ivaphurtalah, 
is  one  of  the  most  powerful  of  the  Sikh  chiefs,  hav- 
ing a revenue  of  about  seven  lakhs  of  rupees,  or  three 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars.  He  was  formerly 
an  independent  prince,  but  was  obliged  to  become  a 
feudatory  of  Ranjit  Singh,  after  being  deprived  of  a 
considerable  portion  of  his  territories.  Part  of  his 
possessions  lie  in  the  district  of  country  between  the 
Sutlej  and  the  Jumna,  under  British  protection. 
The  population  of  this  town,  where  he  lives  most  of 
the  time,  is  probably  about  ten  thousand  persons  ; 
chiefly  Hindus,  with  some  Mussulmans,  and  a few 
Sikhs.  It  is  a new  town,  and  is  apparently  increas- 
ing with  much  rapidity.  Some  of  the  public  build- 


154 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


ings  are  large  and  not  deficient  in  Hindu  taste.  The 
most  singular  and  extensive  is  a temple  to  Siva, 
erected  for  the  Hindus  by  the  Chief,  himself  a Sikh. 
It  has  a lofty  pagoda-like  structure  at  each  corner  of 
a square,  and  a similar  building  in  the  centre  of 
larger  dimensions.  These  pagodas  are  from  thirty 
to  fifty  feet  high,  with  many  gilded  short  spires 
shooting  up  from  various  projections.  In  the  after- 
noon, the  wind  was  very  high  and  from  the  east. 
The  thermometer  stood  in  the  open  air  at  40°,  101°, 
and  50°,  at  sunrise,  noon,  and  sunset.  At  noon  it 
stood  at  61°  in  the  shade. 

February  2. — Yesterday  I went  to  see  the  Chief, 
and  had  much  conversation  with  him  and  his  attend- 
ants. He  is  rather  under  the  middle  size,  has  an 
intelligent  countenance,  dresses  plainly — much  more 
so  than  his  sons,  and  all  his  remarks  evinced  strong 
good  sense,  though  not  much  cultivation  of  mind. 
I was  struck  with  the  frank,  unceremonious,  yet 
respectful  manner  in  which  all  seemed  to  address 
him.  It  wore  something  of  a patriarchal  aspect, 
which  the  grave  countenances  and  long  beards  of 
the  people  rendered  the  more  dignified.  It  was 
interesting,  also,  to  see  Sikhs,  Mussulmans,  and 
Hindus,  mingled  among  the  chief  men  of  this  court, 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  mosques  and  temples  of 
these  sects  are  seen  standing  in  the  same  streets  of 
the  town.  I should  think  it  very  probable,  that  in  a 
few  years  a branch  of  our  mission  might  be  esta- 
blished here  under  promising  prospects.  Even  now, 

I think  the  Sardar  could  be  persuaded  to  grant  his 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


155 


protection,  if  not  his  influence ; and  especially  if  an 
English  school  were  undertaken. 

Our  halting  place  to-day  is  at  Bahrowal,  fourteen 
or  fifteen  miles  from  Kaphurtalah,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Bias,  the  second  river  of  the  Panjab  from 
the  east.  The  Bias  is  here  a pretty  stream  of  about 
one  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  The  eastern  bank 
is  low,  and  covered  with  a deep  fine  white  sand,  for 
a mile  from  the  water.  The  other  bank  is  bolder, 
and  is  probably  thirty  feet  high.  The  town  of  Bah- 
rowal stretches  along  the  western  bank  for  two  or 
three  miles  ; but  does  not  contain  more  than  five  or 
six  thousand  inhabitants,  who  are  chiefly  Hindus. 
It  is  a kind  of  landing-place  for  rafts  of  timber,  which 
are  brought  down  the  river  in  the  rain}!'  season. 
But  it  does  not  present  the  appearance  of  a thriving 
business  place  ; rather  it  appears  to  be  on  the  decline. 
As  usual,  there  are  no  schools,  and  but  few  persons 
who  can  read. 

February  3. — To  Jandyala,  fourteen  miles.  The 
country,  to-day,  has  the  same  general  appearance 
that  we  have  noticed  on  former  days — level,  sandy, 
destitute  of  trees,  stones,  houses,  or  anything  to 
break  the  uniformity  of  the  landscape.  There  were 
occasional  fields  of  fine  wheat,  and  a few  villages 
looking  as  uninteresting  as  usual.  The.  fields  have 
now  commonly  a low  brier  fence  around  them.  One 
is  ready  to  wonder  at  the  richness  of  the  grain  on  so 
sandy  a soil ; but  the  soil  is  rather  a loam,  much 
sand  being  intermingled  with  clay,  which  becomes 
very  productive  when  water  can  be  applied  to 


156 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


irrigate  it.  To  obtain  water  for  this  purpose,  the 
Persian  wheel  is  commonly  employed. 

To-day,  as  on  former  days,  we  met  a number  of 
Cashmerians,  emigrating  from  their  beautiful  native 
valley,  in  search  of  employment.  Through  famine 
and  oppression,  the  valley  of  Cashmere  is  said  to  be 
now  almost  deserted  ; containing  probably  less  than 
one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  yielding  no 
revenue  at  all,  where,  some  years  ago,  it  is  said, 
forty  lakhs,  or  four  millions  of  rupees,  were  collected. 
These  emigrants  look  very  wretched,  being  ragged, 
dirty,  and  often  bare-headed,  which  in  this  country 
indicates  much  deeper  poverty  than  to  be  bare- 
footed in  western  countries.  They  carry  with  them 
a few  utensils  for  cooking,  and  sometimes  a small 
bundle  of  ragged  clothes.  The  men  have  usually 
fine,  intellectual  looking  countenances,  and  are 
rather  small  in  stature.  The  women  may  rank  in 
their  appearance  among  the  poorer  classes  of  emi- 
grants from  Europe  to  America,  and  have  frequently 
good  faces  and  fine  eyes,  though  not  so  remarkable 
for  beauty  as  some  writers  represent.  They  are  a 
very  industrious  people,  and  are  now  to  be  found  at 
nearly  all  the  large  towns  in  this  region  of  India, 
employed  in  manufacturing  the  various  fine  fabrics 
for  which  their  valley  is  celebrated. 

Jandyala  presents  rather  a good  appearance,  many 
of  the  houses  being  built  of  brick.  It  is  always  diffi- 
cult to  form  a correct  estimate  of  the  population  of 
a Hindu  town.  There  are  seldom  any  well  ascer- 
tained statistics,  never  any  records,  and  the  natives 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


157 


differ  widely  in  their  guesses.  One  informant  stated 
the  inhabitants  of  this  town  at  thirty  thousand.  It 
probably  contains  about  one  third  that  number ; 
chiefly  Hindus  of  the  Ivshatriya  caste,  one  of  the 
most  respectable  orders  of  the  community.  There 
are,  however,  no  schools  of  any  kind,  and  few  are 
able  to  read.  Those  who  wish  to  have  their  chil- 
dren taught  to  read  and  write,  send  them  to  Amritsir. 
There  is  a brick  fort  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
this  town,  the  walls  of  which  are  probably  twenty  or 
twenty-five  feet  high,  It  is  smaller  than  one  or  two 
others  we  have  seen,  that  were  built  in  the  same 
style.  Scarcely  any  of  them  would  hold  out  for  any 
length  of  time  against  European  artillery.  Some  of 
them  would  tumble  down  at  the  first  discharge.  Yet 
others  display  considerable  acquaintance  with  mili- 
tary science,  having  the  same  array  of  bastions, 
ramparts,  port-holes,  ditches,  drawbridges,  &c.,  that 
are  common  in  European  fortifications. 

February  4. — Our  ride  this  morning  presented 
nothing  worthy  of  particular  notice.  The  fields  of 
grain  were  more  scattered  than  we  observed  on  for- 
mer days,  and  large  tracts  of  land  were  lying  waste. 
Two  or  three  large  villages  on  the  road-side,  and 
some  others  at  a distance,  had  the  usual  appearance. 
When  we  had  made  about  half  our  march,  we  saw 
several  lofty  columns  rising  from  the  city  of  Amritsir, 
distant  five  or  six  miles.  We  soon  reached  the  city, 
and  found  our  tents  pitched  in  a garden  outside  of 
the  wall,  at  the  north  end.  This  is  one  of  the  largest 
cities  in  the  north  of  India,  as  the  population  is  sup- 


158 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR, 


posed  to  be  upwards  of  one  hundred  thousand.  It 
has  the  higher  recommendation  of  being  a city  not 
on  the  decline,  but  of  increasing  prosperity.  It  is 
the  emporium  of  the  Panjab,  and  the  chief  mart  of 
the  fine  fabrics  of  Cashmere,  and  yields  a revenue,  it 
is  said,  of  five  hundred  thousand  rupees,  which  is 
paid  to  the  Maha  Rajah  by  the  Chief,  who  has  the 
farming  of  its  collection ; so  that  the  entire  sum  is 
probably  much  greater. 

Like  Benares  among  the  Hindus,  Amritsir  is  the 
Sikh  Athens  and  Jerusalem,  being  the  chief  city  of 
learning  and  religion.  The  cause  of  its  celebrity  is 
undoubtedly  the  Sacred  Reservoir,  said  to  have  been 
formed  by  Guru  Ram  Das  about  the  year  1575.  It 
has  been  once  or  twice  profaned  by  Mohammedan 
conquerors,  yet  has  still  been  regarded  with  the 
utmost  veneration.  It  is  the  chief  place  of  resort  of 
the  Sikh  pilgrims,  and  has  many  daily  devotees,  who 
think  their  worship  becomes  highly  meritorious  by 
being  performed  at  so  sacred  a place.  Rajahs  have 
vied  with  each  other  in  the  richness  of  their  offerings 
for  its  decoration;  and  the  number  of  learned  Sikhs, 
who  live  in  the  cloisters  around  its  .pavement,  and 
in  the  booths  on  the  margin  of  its  waters,  to  explain 
the  sacred  book,  the  Granth,  is  so  large,  as  to  diffuse 
almost  a literary  atmosphere  over  the  place  of  devotion. 

I went  to  see  the  reservoir,  though  some  dan- 
ger attended  the  visit.  There  are  always  present 
many  of  the  Akalis,  a kind  of  desperate  fanatics, 
who  fear  not  God  nor  man.  I found  a large  square 
court,  paved  with  bricks  along  the  four  sides,  which 


Toufe  to  Labor. 


159 


form  what  may  be  termed  the  wharves  of  the  sacred 
water.  Along  the  outside  of  the  pavement  there  is 
a range  of  buildings  with  open  doors  or  windows, 
facing  the  reservoir ; and  the  numerous  shady  trees, 
which  are  growing  in  the  pavement,  make  the  walk 
agreeable,  and  are  in  good  keeping  with  the  serious 
character  of  the  place.  The  pool  of  water  is  about 
one  hundred  yards  square,  and  is  probably  ten  or 
twelve  feet  deep.  It  is  supplied  by  a small  canal, 
brought  from  the  river  Ravi,  at  about  thirty-five 
miles’  distance.  In  the  midst  of  the  water  stands  a 
small,  but  neat  temple,  covered  over  with  neat  gild- 
ing, and  connected  with  the  pavement  by  a cause- 
way at  one  side.  At  the  north  side  there  is  a large 
and  richly  decorated  temple  to  Guru  Govind  Singh, 
near  which  is  planted  a lofty  flag-staff,  covered  with 
gold  cloth.  Both  of  these  are  objects  of  great  vene* 
ration.  At  the  edges  of  the  pavement  next  the 
water  are  sundry  small  booths,  or  little  buildings, 
open  at  one  side,  and  containing  little  else  than  a 
Granth  and  a Guru,  a Sikh  Bible  and  a Sikh  priest. 

A number  of  boys  accompanied  us  in  our  walk 
around,  and  behaved  very  insolently ; as  did  some 
beggars  ; so  that  I was  not  sorry  to  see  an  additional 
guard  of  policemen,  and  soon  after  a company  of  sol- 
diers, who  were  sent  by  the  chief  of  the  police,  and  by 
the  Governor  of  the  city,  to  prevent  any  person  from 
offering  me  insult  or  violence.  It  is  usual  for  visitors 
to  make  an  offering  of  money  to  the  Granth  that  is 
kept  in  the  Gilt  Temple.  I declined  compliance, 
as  it  would  have  been  wrong  to  do  so,  but  softened 

8* 


160 


TOUR  TO  liAHOR. 


the  matter  as  much  as  I could  by  ordering  a few 
rupees  to  be  given  to  the  numerous  beggars.  This 
measure  was  far  from  being  satisfactory  to  the 
devotees. 

No  religious  place  that  I have  seen  in  India*  not 
excepting  the  religious  places  of  Benares,  seems  to 
me  as  well  adapted  to  impress  the  minds  of  the 
deluded  worshippers  with  devotional  feelings.  Nor 
do  I recollect  any  so  pleasing  in  its  whole  appear* 
ance,  nor  in  which  there  is  so  little  to  offend  good 
taste.  It  is  a place  where  a Christian  would  love  to 
see  temples  to  the  living  and  the  true  God;  and 
where  he  would  be  delighted  to  observe  the  counte- 
nances of  the  crowds  of  worshippers  reflecting  love 
and  Christian  peace,  instead  of  Pharisaical  and 
desperado  hauteur. 

In  the  evening  the  Sardar  or  Chief  of  this  district, 
Lehna  Singh,  paid  a visit,  ostensibly  to  the  garden 
grounds  where  the  tents  were  pitched,  but  really  to 
see  the  “ Padri  Sahib.”  He  is  a very  sensible  and 
thinking  man.  In  the  course  of  the  conversation,  he 
adverted  to  the  almost  atheistical  principles  or  rather 
want  of  principles,  which  most  Europeans  of  his 
acquaintance  manifested.  Seeing  a thermometer 
and  a compass  lying  on  the  table,  he  soon  showed 
that  he  perfectly  understood  the  uses  of  each,  and 
wished  to  know  why  the  magnet  always  pointed  to 
the  North.  He  referred  to  the  healing  effects  of 
some  kind  of  metals  when  applied  to  different  parts 
of  the  body,  as  an  instance  of  European  science  ; 
and  asked  for  the  reason.  I saw  that  he  had  heard 


TOUR  TO  LAHOE. 


161 


something  about  the  “ metallic  tractors”  which  were 
so  famous  in  France  towards  the  close  of  the  last 
century,  and  explained  to  him  their  history.  He 
then  inquired  about  the  extent  of  my  studies ; and 
finding  1 had  paid  some  attention  to  Geometry,  men- 
tioned that  he  had  an  instrument  which  he  did  not 
know  how  to  use,  and  asked  me  to  explain  the  mode. 
Making  a sketch  of  it  with  a pencil,  it  proved  to  be 
a quadrant,  which  he  afterwards  sent  to  me  by  one 
of  his  most  intelligent  men.  The  Sardar  wished  to 
know  the  mode  of  taking  the  longitude  and  latitude 
of  a place,  and  what  instruments  were  necessary, 
and  wherein  they  differed  from  each  other.  He  ad- 
verted to  spires  of  buildings  becoming  magnetic  after 
some  years’  exposure ; and  also  remarked,  that  iron 
which  had  been  some  years  exposed  to  fire  often  be- 
comes magnetized.  He  mentioned  seeing  the  stars 
in  daylight,  when  in  the  valleys  between  mountains* 
as  a parallel  example  to  a remark  I had  incidentally 
made  about  seeing  them  from  the  bottom  of  wells  ; 
and,  in  the  interview,  asked  many  questions  about 
these  and  other  subjects,  evincing  both  thought  and 
observation,  as  well  as  a judicious  mind ; while 
there  was  but  little  shading  of  vanity  in  his  manner, 
or  disposition  either  to  value  himself  on  account  of 
attainments  so  unusual  among  his  countrymen,  or  to 
make  a display  of  them  to  others. 

I was  highly  gratified  with  the  scientific  part  of 
the  interview ; but  regretted  that  religion  did  not 
form  a more  prominent  part  of  the  conversation. 
On  proposing  to  present  him  with  a Gurmukhi  Tes- 


162 


TOUfi  TO  LAtiOZ. 


lament,  I found  that  he  already  possessed  one ; and 
the  attempt  I made  to  introduce  religious  topics 
through  that  door  was  prevented  by  the  questions 
already  referred  to.  However,  the  latter  may  pre- 
pare the  way  for  the  former.  Lehna  Singh  is  a 
middle-aged  man,  of  mild  but  dignified  manners ; 
and  greatly  beloved,  I understand,  by  his  subjects^ 
He  aids  the  Maha  Rajah,  when  necessary,  with  a 
quota  of  troops.  His  own  revenues  are  said  to  be 
about  three  hundred  thousand  rupees  per  year. 

February  5. — To  Jangri  ka  Phul,  fourteen  kos,  or 
twenty  miles ; for  I have  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  kos  in  this  part  of  India  is  nearly,  if  not 
altogether,  equal  to  one  and  a half  English  miles. 
The  general  face  of  the  country  is  more  than  usually 
barren,  though  there  were  many  villages  and  nume- 
rous karil  trees.  Our  station  to-day  is  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  village  already  named,  which  is  not  very  large. 

Thermometer  at  three  P.M.  in  the  shade,  60°.  A 
newly  raised  regiment  is  encamped  in  our  vicinity. 
They  muster  about  eight  hundred  men.  They  are 
commanded  by  an  Englishman.  There  are  three  or 
four  Englishmen,  as  many  Frenchmen,  and  one 
American,  in  Ranjit’s  service.  Chiefly  by  the  aid 
of  one  or  two  of  the  French  officers,  a large  part  of 
his  army  has  been  trained  according  to  European 
tactics. 


T OUR  TO  LAHofi. 


163 


CHAPTER  XI 

Tour  to  lahor-— ranjit  singh, 

Reach  Lahor — Visits  of  two  fakir  courtiers — Interview  with  the  King 
— Conversations  with  the  fakirs — Invitations  to  see  dancing  girls 
declined — Mussulman  version  of  David’s  repentance — Appearance 
of  Lahor — An  armed  MaulavL 

February  6. — To  Lahor,  eighteen  miles.  From 
Amritsir  to  this  city  there  is  a gradual  descent  in 
the  plain,  so  that  a canal,  had  been  dug  to  supply 
Lahor  with  water  from  the  canal  which  furnishes 
that  important  element  to  the  good  people  of  Amrit- 
sir.  This  canal  runs  side  by  side  with  the  road,  but 
is  now  dry;  and  it  is  said  another  has  been  formed 
for  the  same  purpose.  Lahor  lies  rather  south  of 
west  from  Amritsir.  The  intervening  country  ex- 
hibits a more  barren  appearance  than  any  other 
part  of  the  Panjab  we  have  seen ; though,  owing 
probably  to  the  vicinity  of  the  two  cities  just  named, 
the  number  of  villages  is  greater.  The  soil  is  of 
a hard,  dark,  sandy  nature.  A few  miles  from 
Lahor  the  whole  scene  changes,  and  the  road  passes 
through  an  extremely  fertile  tract  of  country, 
covered  with  luxuriant  fields  of  wheat  and  fine 
gardens,  and  adorned  with  beautiful  mango  and 
tamarind  trees.  One  of  the  gardens,  the  Shalabagh, 


164 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


is  a mile  by  half  a mile  in  extent,  filled  with  orange, 
pomegranate,  rose,  and  other  beautiful  trees.  This 
tract  is  abundantly  irrigated  by  means  of  numerous 
Persian  wheels. 

At  two  or  three  miles’  distance,  we  entered  the 
ruins  of  the  former  city.  A great  many  mosques, 
temples,  palaces,  and  tombs,  are  seen  in  every  direc- 
tion, and  in  every  stage  of  dilapidation.  Some  are 
almost  entire  ; but  most  are  greatly  injured.  Of 
some,  the  domes  are  yet  unimpaired,  while  the  pil- 
lars which  support  them  totter  in  every  breeze,  and 
must  soon  share  the  common  fate.  These  ruins  are 
very  extensive ; so  that  Lahor  may  be  termed  the 
Delhi  of  the  Panjab,  if  not  in  the  magnificence,  at 
least  in  the  extent,  of  the  ruins  of  its  former  self. 

The  present  city  presents  a good  appearance  at  a 
distance;  as  it  is  compactly  built,  and  has  several 
lofty  towers,  and  many  brick  houses  of  considerable 
height.  We  were  conducted  to  an  extensive  gar- 
den of  orange  trees,  in  which  a French  officer  had 
erected  a large  summer  residence.  This  place  has 
been  assigned  for  our  lodgings,  and  is  all  that  I could 
wish  ; as  it  is  retired,  and  yet  sufficiently  near  the 
city,  being  about  a quarter  of  a mile  outside  of  the 
walls. 

In  the  afternoon,  Nur  Ud  Din,  one  of  the  chief 
men,  brought  the  Ziafat,  or  present,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  much  profession  about  the  good  understand- 
ing existing  between  the  British  government  and 
themselves.  This  I was  prepared  to  expect.  He  is 
a Fakir,  or  religious  mendicant,  though  nothing  in 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


165 


his  manner  or  appearance  would  indicate  his  pro- 
fessional character.  He  made  many  remarks  of  a 
religious  kind  ; but  they  were  common-place  and  in- 
definite in  their  nature.  He  introduced  the  subject 
of  an  English  school  in  a skilful  manner  ; inquir- 
ing successively,  how  I,  who  understood  so  little 
of  the  native  language,  could  teach  the  English  to 
natives  ; how  I should  act,  if  different  pupils  wished 
to  learn  different  branches, — who  should  decide. 
The  answers  seemed  to  give  much  satisfaction,  and 
suggested  another  question,  which  1 think  was  the 
chief  object  of  his  long  interview,  though  he  pre- 
sented it  as  if  it  were  a matter  of  no  importance ; 
“ If  a Government  established  a school,  who  should 
decide  on  the  branches  to  be  taught  ?”  I answered, 
“ The  Government,  certainly.”  This  was  “ very 
good,”  he  thought.  I took  cai'e  to  add,  however, 
that  if  a Government  should  establish  a school,  it 
would  still  be  optional  with  persons  proposing  to 
take  charge  of  its  instruction,  to  do  so  or  not,  as 
they  might  approve  or  disapprove  of  its  plan,  to 
which  he  assented.  The  whole  conversation  was  as 
abstract  as  if  we  had  been  sitting  somewhere  in  the 
region  of  the  north  star ; but  its  bearing  on  the 
points  of  interest  here  on  the  earth,  and  at  Lahor,  is 
sufficiently  obvious. 

Fakir  Nur  Ud  Din  is  very  much  of  a courtier; 
perhaps  I should  say,  of  an  eastern  statesman,  in  his 
manners — grave,  cautious,  cool ; yet  abounding  in 
compliments,  and  apparently  very  self-complacent. 
He  has  a fine  large  forehead,  good  eyes,  and  greyish 


1 66 


tfoUR  TO  LAliOR. 


beard ; he  is  about  fifty  years  of  age,  and  dresses 
plainly. 

February  7.— -Last  night  a note  came  from  Nur 
Ud  Din,  apprising  me  that  he  had  communicated  the 
conversation  at  our  interview  to  the  Maha  Rajah, 
who  expressed  much  satisfaction,  &c. ; that  his  bro- 
ther (the  chief  man  here)  would  come  to  see  me 
to-day  ; and  wishing  to  know  whether  I would  prefer 
to  pay  my  respects  to  the  King  to-day  or  to-morrow, 
I sent  an  answer,  that  I would  prefer  going  to-day  ■ 
but  would  leave  the  Maha  Rajah  to  decide. 

To-day,  Aziz  Ud  Din,  the  prime  minister,  called, 
with  a present  from  Ranjit  Singh  of  pomegranates 
and  grapes ; and  afterwards,  oranges,  &tc.  The 
conversation  was  miscellaneous,  and  a little  more  of 
a business  character  than  yesterday.  It  turned, 
however,  chiefly  on  the  friendship  subsisting  be- 
tween the  British  and  themselves,  now  known  to  all 
the  world,  cementing  the  two  nations  into  one, 
causing  them  great  joy  to  see  the  face  of  any  Euro- 
pean, Then  some  inquiries  about  my  health;  what 
would  become  of  the  school  at  Lodiana,  if  I should 
leave  ; what  had  been  the  course  of  my  studies ; 
whether  including  military  science,  &c.  Having 
mentioned  that  I expected  some  friends  to  arrive,  he 
inquired  very  particularly  both  as  to  the  time  of 
their  coming  and  my  probable  leaving. 

This  Fakir,  as  well  as  his  brother,  yesterday,  paid 
me  some  high  and  extravagant  compliments  ; chiefly 
expressive  of  their  great  joy  at  seeing  me,  and  the 
great  pleasure  my  conversation  gave  them.  I have 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


167 


every  reason  to  think  they  were  perfectly  meaning- 
less, if  not  insincere  ; yet  an  instance  or  two  will  be 
amusing.  Yesterday,  the  Fakir  said;  “The  bud  of 
my  heart  (that  is,  my  dearest  bud),  which  was  shut 
up,  has  been  opened  by  the  wind  of  your  conversa- 
tion into  a fine  flower.”  To-day,  at  taking  leave,  the 
Fakir,  in  expressing  his  great  happiness  at  having 
the  interview,  said,  that,  “ I was  like  a treasury  of 
precious  jewels,  which  he  could  not  obtain,”  refer- 
ring to  my  not  being  able  to  communicate  the  know- 
ledge to  him  which  he  supposed  I possessed.  I was 
quite  at  fault  when  he  referred  to  “an  ancient  tradi- 
tion about  the  philosopher’s  stone  which  converted 
everything  into  gold  ; but  if  even  a leaf  intervened 
between  the  stone  and  the  material  to  be  changed 
into  gold,  then  the  latter  received  little  benefit.”  At 
first,  I thought  the  remark  was  intended  as  a display 
of  learning;  but  saw  presently  that  it  was  a further 
compliment  in  reference  to  the  difficulty  of  commu- 
nicating by  an  interpreter.  This  Fakir  is  a very 
different  looking  man  from  his  brother.  His  coun- 
tenance indicates  distrust  and  suspicion,  yet  much 
sagacity.  His  conversation  was  marked  with  good 
sense,  less  display,  and  a more  direct  “ coming  to  the 
point,”  than  that  of  his  brother.  He  has  evidently 
been  much  in  intercourse  with  the  world ; and  I 
detected  him  scrutinizing  my  countenance  with  an 
almost  embarrassing  closeness.  He  is  about  of  mid- 
dle stature,  dresses  very  plainly,  and  wears  a full 
beard,  dyed  blue  by  way  of  ornament. 

Februarij  8. — We  went,  about  8 o’clock,  to  pay 


168 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


our  respects  to  the  Maha  Rajah.  He  was  seated  in 
an  open  hall,  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  inclosure 
where  his  palace  is  erected,  and  was  surrounded  by 
about  a dozen  of  his  chief  men,  all  dressed  very 
richly,  and  sitting  on  rich  crimson  cushions.  After 
being  seated  on  the  floor  like  the  rest,  and  exchanging 
the  usual  compliments,  I presented  the  English  Bible 
and  Gurmukhi  Pentateuch  which  I had  brought  with 
me  for  that  purpose.  He  then  asked,  without 
any  further  introduction,  “Where  is  God?”  “It 
would  be  as  easy  to  answer  the  question,  Where 
is  he  not?”  “Well,  if  you  don’t  know  where  God 
is,  how  can  you  worship  him?”  Inferring  from 
what  I saw,  that  it  was  their  intention  to  make  a 
trial  of  my  skill  in  such  subjects,  I answered  more 
fully:  “We  do  know  that  God  is  everywhere  pre- 
sent; though  he  specially  reveals  himself  in  heaven  ; 
that  he  can  see  us,  though  we  cannot  see.  him  ; and 
that  he  has  made  known  in  his  holy  word  (pointing 
to  the  Bible  I had  presented),  how  we  should  wor- 
ship him.”  The  answer  appeared  very  satisfactory. 
“ What  precepts  has  God  given  in  his  word  ?”  I 
mentioned  the  two  great  commandments  ; which  also 
gave  much  satisfaction.  “But  what  will  be  done  to 
those  who  disobey  his  commandments?”  “God 
will  punish  them  with  eternal  suffering  in  the  next 
world.”  “If  so,  why  do  rulers  punish  men  who 
commit  murder,  for  instance,  in  this  world  ?”  “ Rulers 
are  appointed  by  God  to  punish  in  this  world  many 
kinds  of  wickedness ; but  all  will  have  to  give  an 
account,  in  the  next  world,  to  God,  both  rulers  and 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


169 


subjects.”  He  inquired  if  that  was  so  written  in  our 
Scriptures.  I took  occasion,  then,  to  mention  that 
“Christians  believe  that  they  may  avoid  the  suffering 
in  the  next  world  which  is  due  to  all  men  for  sin, 
by  trusting  in  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.”  The  ques- 
tions proposed  subsequently  did  not  appear  to  be 
intended  as  a trial  of  my  ability  to  answer  them  ; 
but  rather  to  be  prompted  by  Sikh  curiosity.  Hav- 
ing inquired  about  my  learning,  and  whether  it 
included  military  and  medical  branches,  he  made 
some  inquiries  about  his  interview  with  the  Governor 
General  two  or  three  years  ago  at  Rupar.  Then  he 
inquired  about  my  acquaintance  with  horses ; and 
rising  from  his  cushion  he  led  the  way  to  an  outer 
hall,  where  being  again  seated,  he  asked  further  ques- 
tions about  my  health;  whether  married  ; why  I wore 
crape  on  my  hat ; why  I wore  spectacles,  &c.,  to  all 
which  I gave  briefly  the  proper  answers.  Then,  telling 
me  that  the  Fakir  would  come  to  see  me,  and  to  talk 
about  other  subjects,  permission  was  given  to  take 
leave. 

February  9. — Yesterday  afternoon,  Fakir  Aziz 
Ud  Din  came  again  to  see  me,  and  two  boys  pre- 
sently arrived,  wishing  to  study  English  under  my 
direction  while  I remain  here.  They  are  the  sons 
of  one  of  the  chief  ministers.  Before  they  came, 
the  Fakir,  inquiring  about  the  books  lying  on  the 
table,  wished  to  hear  me  read  out  of  the  Greek  Tes- 
tament. I turned  to  the  latter  part  of  the  third 
chapter  of  John’s  Gospel,  and  read  the  distinct  testi- 
mony there  given  to  our  Saviour’s  mission.  Polite 


170 


TOUK  TO  LAHOR. 


as  the  Fakir  was  determined  to  be,  his  Mussulman 
prejudices  would  not  allow  him  to  say  “ durust, 
khub”  (good,  excellent),  to  all  that  was  read ; though 
he  did  not  manifest  the  opposition  I expected.  I had 
an  opportunity  of  explaining  the  sense  in  which 
Christians  hold  the  doctrine  of  Father  and  Son,  in 
the  Trinity,  which  is  so  very  offensive  to  the 
Mohammedans,  partly  because  they  understand  our 
creed  in  the  sense  those  terms  convey  in  regard  to 
human  relations.  Afterwards,  I read  the  apostle’s 
glowing  and  sublime  account  of  the  resurrection, 
1st  Corinthians  xv. ; with  which  he  was  much  pleas- 
ed. The  more  I see  of  this  man,  the  higher  my 
opinion  rises  of  his  talents  and  address.  There  is  a 
sound  of  sincerity  also  in  his  voice,  which  is  pleasing, 
even  though  one  cannot  trust  it,  because  contra- 
dicted by  the  sinister  expression  of  his  eye. 

In  the  afternoon  to-day,  it  was  announced  that 
the  “ Bara  Fakir,”  the  chief  Fakir,  was  coming  ; 
and  presently  the  news  was  brought,  that  he  had 
stopped  to  say  his  prayers  in  the  garden.  About  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  afterwards,  he  made  his  appear- 
ance, and  told  me  himself  that  he  had  been  to  pray- 
ers. I made  some  remark  about  that  being  a good 
employment,  which  led  to  a long  series  of  remarks 
and  quotations  from  the  Koran,  in  Arabic,  on  the 
subject  of  religion,  as  if  he  were  determined  to 
inflict  punishment  for  the  Greek  of  yesterday.  He 
assented  to  an  observation,  that  prayers  should  not 
be  made  to  be  seen  of  men,  and  that  they  should  be 
from  the  heart,  with  much  cordiality ; and  went  on 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


171 


to  give  illustrations,  which  were  very  appropriate. 
He  informed  me  at  last  that  he  was  a Sufi'  Mussul- 
man (nearly  a freethinker  in  that  sect),  and  believed 
in  all  the  prophets,  Jewish,  Christian,  and  Mussul- 
man, to  the  number  of  many  thousand. 

One  thing  in  which  we  both  agreed  was,  that  we 
should  not  reason  or  dispute  about  anything  that 
God  makes  known  for  us  to  believe  ; but  should 
receive  it  at  once.  I stipulated,  however,  that  we 
should  exercise  our  reason  to  judge  what  God  had 
revealed,  or  what  book  contained  his  will.  To  this 
he  agreed  after  some  demurring.  I then  wished  him, 
as  he  was  a learned  Mussulman,  to  tell  me,  in  some 
of  his  visits,  why  he  believed  the  Koran  to  be  the 
word  of  God.  The  request  was  obviously  not  very 
agreeable.  However,  he  quoted,  in  a sort  of  singing, 
or  chanting  tone,  a long  Arabic  sentence  from  the 
Koran  about  God,  as  our  Creator,  Preserver,  &c. ; 
and  ended  with  telling  me,  that  Mohammed  had 
challenged  the  Arabs  to  produce  anything  equal  to  a 
chapter  of  the  Koran,  which  he,  though  illiterate, 
had  spoken  to  them ; and,  if  they  could  not  do  so, 
then  they  should  believe  in  his  mission.  Thus  the 
Fakir  argued  for  the  divine  authority  of  the  Koran 
from  the  excellence  of  its  style ; but  as  I had  previ- 
ously obtained  his  consent  to  hear  me  explain  the 
reasons  of  our  religious  faith  at  some  other  time,  I 
deemed  it  best  to  waive  argument  on  this  occasion. 

In  the  evening,  a guard  of  forty  soldiers  was  sent. 
It  would  be  useless  to  decline  their  service ; as  it 


172 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


would  be  said  they  are  necessary  for  the  Maha  Rajah’s 
dignity,  if  not  for  mine. 

February  11.— At  an  early  hour  to-day,  the  Maha 
Rajah  sent  one  of  his  officers  to  conduct  me  to  pay 
him  a visit.  He  was  encamped  on  the  plain  about 
two  miles  from  the  city,  preparatory  to  going  on  a 
hunting  excursion.  A regiment  of  good  looking  men 
were  on  guard,  and  a considerable  number  of  fine 
horses,  in  which  Ranjit  takes  great  pleasure ; and 
some  elephants  were  also  brought  forward  for  pur- 
poses of  show.  The  tent,  which  was  quite  large, 
was  made  of  fine  Cashmere  shawls.  In  the  Rajah’s 
immediate  presence  there  was  no  particular  display 
of  state  on  this  occasion. 

He  received  me  with  much  favor ; which  I soon 
perceived  was  owing  not  a little  to  his  having  heard 
from  his  Envoy  at  Calcutta,  that  some  of  my  friends 
there,  who  are  high  in  office,  wished  him  to  show  me 
kind  attentions.  It  is  almost  amusing  to  see  the 
anxiety  which  pervades  this  court,  to  please  the 
English  authorities.  He  made  some  remarks  about 
my  having  begged  to  decline  accompanying  him  on 
his  hunting  tour  ; and  promised  to  send  for  me,  if  he 
should  find  any  lions  or  tigers. 

A few  days  ago,  he  had  sent  me  an  invitation  to 
be  present  at  a public  entertainment ; which  I 
accepted  at  first,  but  afterwards,  on  further  reflec- 
tion, I had  desired  to  be  excused  from  going,  as  I 
learned  that  a part  of  the  amusement  was  to  consist 
of  the  dancing  of  the  Nach  girls.  The  circumstance 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


173 


was  quite  an  awkward  one,  and  I fear  gave  offence ; 
but  I feel  glad  to  have  been  led  to  think  of  the 
impropriety  of  being  present,  before  it  was  too  late 
to  draw  back.  To-day,  a good  many  of  his  remarks 
had  an  indirect  reference  to  that  circumstance.  He 
inquired  particularly  about  our  liberty  to  drink  wine, 
which  was  part  of  the  amusement,  and  which,  know- 
ing the  scruples  of  the  Mussulmans,  he  may  have 
supposed  to  have  been  my  real  motive  for  declining. 
However,  I honestly  explained,  that  our  religion  for- 
bids all  loose  conduct  in  women,  and  also  all  en- 
couragement of  such  conduct  by  men;  and  that  I 
could  not  be  present  without  thereby  giving  the 
san'ction  of  my  influence  to  the  shameful  profession 
of  these  girls.  He  said  something  about  their  per- 
formance being  in  his  presence,  and  not  at  my  house, 
and  added,  “ If  you  have  not  seen  the  Nach  girls  of 
Lahor,  what  have  you  seen  ?”  The  higher  classes 
in  this  country  are  passionately  fond  of  witnessing 
these  dances.  But  I persisted  in  thinking  that  the 
influence  of  my  example  would  be  the  same  in  either 
case,  and  in  declining,  with  as  good  a grace  as  I 
could,  to  see  them.  When  he  found  I was  firm,  he 
paid  some  compliments  to  my  consistency.  I note 
this  circumstance  the  more  readily,  because  it  throws 
some  light  upon  the  corrupt  manners  of  this  court, 
and  because  I feel  thankful  at  having  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  partially  explaining  the  pi'ecepts  of  our 
religion  in  regard  to  a vice  which  is  so  very  common 
in  this  dark  land. 

February  12. — Fakir  NurUd  Din  to-day,  remarked, 


174 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


that  in  his  religion  their  prayers  were  in  Arabic, 
according  to  certain  forms ; and  wished  me  to  tell 
him  about  our  forms  of  prayer.  I mentioned  that 
we  were  required  to  pray  with  the  understanding, 
and  therefore  made  use  of  a language  which  we 
could  understand ; and  that  our  Sacred  Scriptures 
teach  us  how  to  pra^,  and  what  to  pray  for,  but  give 
us  few  forms.  After  reading  Matthew  vi.  5-13,  we 
had  a long  conversation  on  religion,  as  to  the  mode 
of  obtaining  pardon  for  sin.  He  urged  that  it  was 
only  necessary  to  be  sorry  for  it.  I referred  him 
to  the  course  of  human  justice,  which  mere  sor- 
row could  not  arrest,  and  explained  to  him  our  belief 
in  the  atonement  for  sin  which  Christ  has  made. 
He  then  professed  to  believe  in  the  Pentateuch,  the 
Gospels,  and  the  Koran ; in  Moses,  Christ,  and 
Mohammed.  I referred  him  to  some  of  the  points, 
not  only  of  difference,  but  of  contradiction,  between 
the  latter  and  the  former ; especially,  that  the  one 
requires  confidence  in  Christ  Jesus,  as  Mediator 
between  God  and  men,  and  in  no  other  ; while  the 
other  requires  the  same  confidence  in  Mohammed, 
and  in  no  other.  He  professed  to  believe  them  both  ! 

February  15,  Lord’s  Day. — The  chief  Fakir  came 
and  spent  two  or  three  hours  in  conversation  con- 
cerning various  important  topics  of  religion.  I was 
glad  to  find  that  his  brother  and  himself  had  been 
talking  the  matter  over  since  our  last  conversation  ; 
and  this  man,  to-day,  seemed  anxious  to  show  that 
repentance  for  sin  was  sufficient  in  the  sight  of  God 
to  secure  its  forgiveness.  This  he  illustrated  by 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


175 


quoting  the  example  of  David,  in  reference  to  the 
sin  against  Uriah.  I was  amused  at  the  appearance 
of  the  narrative  after  its  Mussulman  transmigration  : 
“ David  was  at  prayer,  during  which  it  is  a great 
sin  to  think  of  anything  else,  when  a very  beautiful 
bird  appeared  very  near  him.  He  was  tempted  to 
try  to  catch  it;  but  it  hopped  away  further  and  further, 
until  it  led  him  to  the  parapet  of  the  roof,  and  then 
it  flew  away.  But  he  was  thus  led  to  see  the  wife 
of  his  prime  minister  bathing  herself,  &c.  Then, 
after  he  was  convinced  of  his  sin,  by  means  of  a 
quarrel  between  two  men,  one  rich  and  the  other 
poor,  about  a camel,  he  fasted  and  wept  at  the  tomb 
of  Uriah,  until  he  obtained  his  forgiveness  for  some 
unknown  crime ; but  God  would  not  confirm  the 
pardon,  unless  he  would  obtain  Uriah’s  forgiveness 
for  the  crime,  after  making  it  known  to  him.  Again 
David  fasted  and  prayed,  and  wept,  for  many,  many 
months,  at  the  tomb,  and  at  last  God  forgave  him.” 
I turned  to  the  simple  and  affecting  parable  of  Nathan, 
and  read  it,  and  also  the  verses  in  which  punishment 
was  denounced — a part  of  the  narrative  which  the 
Mussulman  account  of  the  story  omits.  This 
answered  two  purposes ; it  showed  one  instance  of 
difference  between  the  Koran  and  the  Bible ; and  it 
showed  that  justice  must  be  satisfied.  The  Fakir 
saw  the  force  of  another  remark,  that  we  are  always 
under  the  highest  obligation  to  love  and  serve  God, 
and  therefore  cannot,  in  future,  atone  for  past  sins  ; 
and  exclaimed,  “ Then,  what  must  a man  do  who 
has  been  an  infidel  for  twenty  years  ? Must  he 

9 


176 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


always  suffer  punishment?”  This  gave  me  a fine 
opportunity  of  mentioning  the  method  of  salvation 
through  the  merits  of  Christ.  I illustrated  these 
remarks  by  a reference  to  my  own  hopes,  which 
seemed  to  interest  his  mind. 

In  regard  to  the  oneness  of  the  Mussulman  and 
Christian  systems,  the  great  argument  always  is,  that 
God  may  give  additional  revelation,  adapted  to  the 
circumstances  of  different  people.  After  pointing 
out  some  essential  points  of  difference,  I stated  that 
God  had  made  known  that  the  Gospel  was  intended 
for  all  men  in  all  ages ; and  therefore  it  implied  a 
reflection  both  on  his  unchangeableness  and  his 
wisdom,  as  well  as  his  truth,  to  admit  the  Mussul- 
man system.  He  asked  where  it  was  expressly  writ- 
ten that  it  was  intended  always  for  all.  I referred  to 
the  commission  given  by  our  Saviour  at  the  close  of 
the  Gospel  of  Matthew,  and  also  to  the  solemn 
conclusion  of  the  Bible  in  the  last  of  Revelation. 
It  struck  me  as  singular,  that  these  Fakirs  should 
wish  to  claim  a brotherhood  for  their  system  with 
the  Christian.  Perhaps  it  is  owing  partly  to  infi- 
delity as  to  any  system,  and  partly  to  a wish  to  rank 
respectably  in  the  eyes  of  those  whom  they  see  to  be 
so  much  their  superiors  in  other  respects,  as  Chris- 
tians usually  are. 

At  parting  with  this  man  to-day,  I gave  him  three 
tracts,  and  could  not  but  feel  grateful  that  my  posi- 
tion here  is  so  regarded  as  to  secure  for  them  a 
thankful  acceptance,  and  probably  a careful  perusal. 
This  is  one  advantage  of  making  this  journey  under 


TOUR  TO  LAHOH. 


177 


these  circumstances  to  balance  some  serious  disad- 
vantages, that  it  gives  me  access  to  some  of  the  most 
influential  persons  in  the  community.  The  Lord 
bless  the  truth  presented  in  this  conversation  ! The 
congregation  was  small — the  Fakir,  one  attendant, 
and  the  interpreter ; but  their  souls  are  of  infinite 
worth,  and  their  conversion  would,  in  human  view, 
produce  unspeakably  important  results. 

February  21. — I have  spent  several  afternoons  in 
“ sight-seeing,”  visiting  the  principal  public  buildings 
and  places  of  interest.  The  first  was  a large  mosque, 
from  the  top  of  one  of  whose  minarets  there  is  an 
extensive  view  of  the  city  and  country  around.  It 
is  in  a bad  state  of  repair,  and  contains  nothing 
worthy  of  notice,  unless  it  be  a kind  of  inlaying  of 
clay,  resembling  porcelain,  and  painted  with  bright 
and  very  durable  colors,  as  they  still  retain  their 
lustre,  though  upwards  of  two  hundred  years  old. 
Next  day,  we  went  to  see  the  mosque  built  by  the 
great  Akber,  at  the  north  extremity  of  the  city.  It 
has  three  domes,  faced  on  the  outside  with  white 
marble,  and  its  four  large  and  lofty  minarets,  faced 
with  a fine  red  sandstone,  are  among  the  most  con- 
spicuous objects  in  the  city.  But  now  all  is  in  a 
state  of  ruinous  decay,  the  whole  place  being  used  as 
barracks  for  a company  of  infantry,  who  pile  up  their 
arms  in  one  of  the  holiest  apartments  of  the  mosque, 
while  they  sleep  in  another.  These  minarets  are 
probably  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high. 

The  palace  of  Akber  contains  one  tolerably  good 
hall  of  audience,  open  on  three  sides,  supported  by 


178 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


graceful  marble  columns,  and  having  a recess  on  the 
fourth  side  for  the  royal  seat — all  on  the  same  plan, 
and  nearly  as  good  as  in  the  palace  at  Delhi.  But 
in  what  a changing  world  we  live  ! In  the  hall  where 
suppliant  princes  once  knelt  in  the  great  emperor’s 
presence,  Ranjit  now  keeps  picketed  among  the 
marble  columns  some  half  a dozen  horses!  There 
are  various  apartments  adjoining  this  hall  of  audience ; 
some  of  them  designed  for  the  females  of  the  Rajah’s 
family  ; others  covered  with  paintings  of  Hindu  gods 
and  goddesses.  Among  the  paintings  are  two  repre- 
senting Ranjit  as  a suppliant,  but  standing  before 
Guru  Nanak  and  Guru  Govind  Singh  ; while  another 
is  intended  to  represent  his  interview  with  Lord 
William  Bentinck  at  Rupar.  The  English  people,  in 
the  hands  of  the  artist,  have  been  made  to  present  a 
ridiculous  appearance.  The  art  of  painting  is 
obviously  in  a rude  state  among  these  people.  But 
these  efforts  attracted  many  exclamations  of  “ good, 
good,”  from  the  attendants.  The  best  parts  of  the 
display  of  taste  are  the  numerous  jets  d’eau,  to  keep 
the  air  fresh  and  cool. 

In  visiting  these  “lions”  of  the  city,  we  usually 
rode  on  an  elephant,  the  best  mode  in  such  dirty 
streets  as  we  had  to  traverse.  A sewer,  containing 
black,  filthy  mud  and  water,  runs  in  the  middle  of 
every  street,  threatening  defilement,  unless  a person 
is  elevated  too  high  to  be  spattered  when  a galloping 
horse  dashes  along.  The  streets,  moreover,  are  all 
so  narrow  that  two  elephants  cannot  pass  each  other, 
nor  even  a camel  and  an  elephant,  as  we  had  frequent 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


179 


opportunities  of  seeing,  and  sometimes  at  no  little 
expense  of  patience,  in  waiting  until  the  way  could 
be  made  clear.  To  meet  a string  of  some  twenty  or 
thirty  camels,  as  we  did  one  evening,  is  no  very 
agreeable  matter  to  a person  who  may  wish  to  lose 
no  time. 

The  houses  are  from  three  to  five  stories  high,  and 
nearly  all  built  of  bricks  that  have  been  dug  out  of 
the  ruins  of  the  old  city.  Their  appearance,  there- 
fore, is  quite  in  keeping  with  that  of  the  streets. 
They  are  built  very  densely  together.  The  narrow 
bazars  are  crowded,  and  the  streets  are  full  of  people. 
The  population  seems  to  be  very  great,  and  not  to 
be  diminishing.  The  walls  of  the  city,  and  its 
mosques,  and  the  fort,  certainly  do  present  the 
appearance  of  decay.  But  that  seems  to  be  owing 
to  the  Maha  Rajah’s  neglect.  He  takes  more  inter- 
est in  building  up  Amritsir.  The  population  of 
Lahor  cannot  be  less  than  one  hundred  thousand ; 
yet  the  present  city  is  a mere  village  compared  with 
the  ancient,  if  an  opinion  may  be  formed  from  the 
ruins  of  the  latter.  These  extend  four  or  five  miles 
in  length,  by  three  in  breadth ; and  even  now, 
upwards  of  fifty  large  mosques  and  other  public 
buildings  remain,  besides  a great  number  of  smaller 
ones — all,  however,  in  a ruinous  condition. 

February  23. — To-day  a respectable  Maulavi 
came  to  see  me.  He  had  a sword  sticking  at  one 
side  of  his  sash,  and  a pistol  at  the  other.  In  other 
respects,  his  appearance  was  very  pleasing,  being  a 
middle-aged  man,  of  an  intelligent,  lively  countenance. 


180 


TOUR  TO  LAHOR. 


I inquired  how  he  accounted  for  the  apparent  change 
in  the  spirit  of  Mussulmans,  so  that  we  now  seldom 
hear  of  force  being  employed  to  make  converts  ; and 
also,  how  he  justified  the  use  of  the  sword  in  making 
proselytes.  The  questions  were  rather  difficult  to 
answer.  However,  he  referred  to  the  command  of 
God  in  the  Koran  ; thought  the  practice  proper  only 
when  the  infidels  refused  to  believe,  after  suitable 
efforts  had  been  made  to  convince  them  ; and  con- 
cluded with  the  usual  remark,  that  it  is  not  proper 
to  reason  about  God’s  commandments.  The  latter 
remark  I,  of  course,  assented  to,  when  we  know 
what  God  has  commanded,  but  not  till  then.  I 
explained  to  him  our  mode  of  advocating  Christianity ; 
adding,  that,  as  to  those  who  refuse  to  believe  in 
Jesus,  we  think  it  both  their  loss  and  their  sin.  For 
the  former,  we  pity  them ; and,  as  to  the  latter,  we 
are  not  able  to  punish  them  as  they  deserve,  but  pre- 
fer to  leave  them  in  the  hands  of  God ; and  then 
asked,  which  plan  he  thought  most  honorable  to  the 
character  of  God  ? After  approving  our  method,  he 
evaded  expressing  an  opinion  as  to  which  is  best. 
On  promising  him  the  loan  of  a Testament,  he  took 
leave.  He  says  there  are  about  a dozen  Maulavis 
in  this  city. 


THE  FAN  JAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


181 


CHAPTER  XII. 

RANJIT  SINGH’S  HUNTING  EXCURSION NOTES  ON  THE 

PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 

Leave  Lahor  for  the  hunting  ground — Hunting  Company — Manner  of 
despatching  business  at  Court — Dismission  granted — Notes  on  the 
Panjab  and  the  Sikhs. 

February  28. — Agreeably  to  an  arrangement  made 
within  the  last  few  days,  I left  Lahor  this  afternoon, 
to  join  the  Maha  Rajah  on  his  hunting  ground. 
Falu'r  Nur  Ud  Din  came  to  conduct  me  out  of  the 
city.  We  had  some  conversation  about  the  pro- 
phecies contained  in  our  Sacred  Scriptures,  which 
grew  out  of  an  inquiry  of  his  about  foretelling  the 
future  by  astrology.  He  wished  to  know  what 
would  come  to  pass  according  to  our  prophecies. 
After  referring  him  to  several  that  have  been  fulfilled, 
I read  some  passages  out  of  Isaiah  concerning  the 
future  progress  of  the  gospel.  They  appeared  inte- 
resting to  him,  though  he  did  not  express  any  opinion 
about  them.  I could  not  but  offer  up  a silent  prayer 
that  we  may  soon  witness  their  fulfilment.  After- 
wards, I gave  him  about  a dozen  of  tracts,  as  a part- 
ing gift ; with  which  he  was  pleased.  We  crossed 
the  Ravi  about  six  miles  to  the  southwest,  and 


182 


THE  PArTJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


encamped  in  the  midst  of  wheat  fields  two  or  three 
miles  from  the  ferry.  The  waters  of  this  river  are 
of  a red  muddy  color.  It  flows  here  through  a flat 
country,  and  is  about  forty  or  fifty  yards  wide.  The 
fields  of  grain  on  its  banks  ai’e  full  of  promise. 

March  1,  Lord's  Day. — We  made  no  journey 
to-day,  though  the  halt  was  not  so  much  to  the  satis- 
faction of  the  people  who  were  with  me  as  on  a 
former  occasion.  Word  has  been  received  that  a 
tiger  has  been  found,  and  they  are  anxious  to  reach 
the  hunting  party  so  as  to  partake  in  the  sport.  The 
Maha  Rajah,  too,  would  no  doubt  prefer  my  omitting 
to  observe  this  day ; but  it  is  better  to  please  God 
than  man. 

March  2. — To  Mahadevi,  ten  miles  over  a barren 
heath,  without  any  cultivation,  or  any  production, 
except  a sort  of  desert  grass  and  some  stunted  thorn- 
trees.  We  learned,  as  we  drew  near  the  camp,  that 
the  tiger  had  been  killed  yesterday,  much  to  the 
regret  of  the  people  with  me. 

In  the  afternoon  I went  with  the  Maha  Rajah  and 
his  people  on  their  daily  hunt.  The  company  was 
very  singular  in  appearance  to  my  eye,  consisting  of 
several  hundred  men,  in  white,  yellow,  and  red,  and 
often  very  rich,  robes  and  uniforms ; some  on  ele- 
phants, of  which  there  were  nearly  thirty;  some  on 
camels  ; many  on  all  sorts  of  horses,  from  the  very 
finest  to  the  most  sorry  ; and  more  still  on  foot,  some 
carrying  guns,  others  swords,  others  spears  and 
shields  ; some  leading  dogs,  others  carrying  falcons  ; 
and  all  this  cavalcade  in  the  midst  of  a barren  plain. 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS* 


183 


covered  only  with  densely  standing  long  grass,  and 
scrub  thorn  bushes.  We  took  a circuit  of  several 
miles,  but  started  nothing  except  a few  birds  and 
deer.  There  is  no  little  enthusiasm  of  feeling  on 
such  an  occasion ; and  I was  not  sorry  to  have  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  this  favorite  sport  of  eastern 
kings.  I had  some  miscellaneous  conversation  with 
the  Rajah  by  the  way,  and  more  after  our  return. 
Almost  the  only  topic  of  importance  was  a state- 
ment, on  being  asked  if  I had  read  the  books  of 
different  religious  systems,  that  the  Christian  religion 
differed  from  others  chiefly  in  teaching  that  all  men 
are  sinners,  and  that  Christ  died  to  open  the  way  for 
pardon  to  be  given  ; and  hence  it  is  that  we  love 
him  so  much.  To  all  which,  at  the  end  of  each 
clause,  the  Maha  Rajah  gave  his  short  but  expressive 
“ thik’' — good.  I was  not  sorry  to  find  that  my 
declining  to  see  the  dancing  girls  had  been  thought 
about ; and  it  led  to  a question  or  two  which  gave 
me  the  opportunity  of  stating  the  seventh  command- 
ment, and  some  other  duties. 

MarchS. — To  a village  five  miles  east  of  Maha- 
devi.  While  at  the  Court,  after  arriving,  the  Maha 
Rajah  transacted  some  business  of  an  unimportant 
nature.  It  was  curious  to  see  the  half-business, 
half-conversational  manner  of  their  proceeding.  As 
each  item  was  mentioned,  something  was  said  by 
him  either  of  approval  or  alteration,  which  was 
assented  to  by  the  courtiers  seated  around,  who 
hardly  ventured  even  to  make  a suggestion ; while 
anecdotes,  remarks  about  different  persons,  queries 

9* 


184 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS 


to  myself,  &c.,  occupied  so  much  attention,  that  only 
the  writers  appeared  to  be  employed  in  business. 
They  watched  their  opportunity,  whenever  there 
was  a lull  in  the  miscellaneous  talk,  to  read  the 
statement  they  were  making.  I had  mentioned 
during  the  ride,  that  if  the  Granth  were  a printed 
book  it  would  not  cost  more  probably  than  twenty 
rupees.  This  remark  the  Rajah  repeated  in  court, 
and  it  became  the  subject  of  a good  deal  of  conver- 
sation. A manuscript  copy  costs  from  one  to  two 
hundred  rupees. 

March  4. — To  the  encampment  between  three 
villages  about  four  miles  south  of  yesterday’s  halting 
place.  The  Maha  Rajah  set  out  in  the  morning 
without  sending  me  word  of  his  movements.  I was 
not  sorry  to  have  the  opportunity  of  declining  to  go 
in  the  sun,  and  so  refused  to  follow,  until  I should 
be  so  inclined.  This  measure  no  doubt  was  not 
gratifying  to  him ; but  I do  not  feel  it  to  be  a duty 
to  ride  in  the  sun  and  dust  among  the  crowd,  when 
so  little  seems  now  likely  to  be  gained  for  my  gene- 
ral object. 

March  5. — This  afternoon  I obtained  my  dismis- 
sion. Previously  the  chief  minister  had  informed 
me  of  the  Khilat,  or  present,  that  would  be  given  ; 
which,  though  customary  on  such  occasions,  was 
yet  on  a much  more  liberal  scale  than  I had  expected. 
The  Maha  Rajah  was  in  high  good  humor  when  we 
were  present.  I took  opportunity  to  explain  my 
connexion  with  the  Missionary  Society,  and  that 
the  presents  he  had  been  so  kind  as  to  give  me, 


’THE  PAN  JAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


185 


would  be  made  over  to  its  funds.  He  listened  with 
a half-incredulous  air  ; but  it  occurred  to  me  to  illus- 
trate the  matter  by  a reference  to  a rule  of  the  East 
India  Company,  requiring  their  servants  to  deliver 
all  presents  that  may  be  made  to  them  to  the  proper 
officer.  With  this  rule  he  is  well  acquainted,  and 
the  reference  seemed  satisfactory,  but  led  to  various 
questions  about  the  Society;  “Is  it  a Government 
Company  ? What  are  its  objects  ?”  I explained  the 
manner  in  which  funds  were  raised  ; and  that  they 
were  given  thus  by  religious  people,  to  promote  reli- 
gion and  education  ; and  also,  that  those  who  were 
sent  as  missionaries  were  influenced  by  religious 
motives,  receiving  from  these  Societies  merely  what 
was  sufficient  for  their  comfortable  support ; adding, 
that  some  of  them  might  have  received  larger  sala- 
ries at  home.  This  he  evidently  did  not  believe ; 
but  he  seemed  interested  by  the  explanation  ; praised 
the  conduct  of  the  people  in  forming  such  a Society  ; 
wished  to  know  if  I would  give  them  these  presents  ; 
and  added,  that  I must  tell  them,  at  any  rate,  that 
he  gave  the  horse  (a  fine  Turkman  pony)  to  myself, 
not  to  the  Society.  When  I had  explained  that  the 
Society  was  not  a Government  concern,  he  wished 
to  know  about  the  padris,  or  clergymen,  what  con- 
nexion they  had  with  the  Government.  I explained, 
that  it  was  merely  that  of  other  citizens.  “ What ! 
if  a padri  commits  a crime,  will  they  punish  him 
like  another  man  !”  “ Certainly.”  This  he  deemed 

wonderful ; and  certainly  it  is  very  different  from 
the  impunity  with  which  the  Akalis,  the  Sikh 


166 


THE  EANJAJS  AND  THE  StKHS, 


devotees,  commit  the  most  disgraceful  crimes  here, 

I could  not  but  feel  grateful  for  the  difference.  I 
was  very  glad  to  have  the  opportunity  of  making 
this  explanation  in  regard  to  these  presents.  It  may 
remove,  in  part,  the  impression  that  1 am  influenced 
merely  by  selfish  and  pecuniary  views.  But  I fear 
this  impression  will  remain,  notwithstanding,  on  the 
minds  of  many  of  these  people.  On  the  whole,  I 
think  it  would  have  been  better  to  have  declined 
receiving  any  of  the  presents,  if  it  could  have  been 
done  without  giving  too  much  offence. 

In  the  evening,  the  chief  Fakir  came  to  bid  me 
good-bye;  and  afterwards  the  Rajah’s  chief  Mun- 
shi,  Kahan  Chand,  who  has  been  with  me,  by  the 
appointment  of  Ranjit  Singh,  since  leaving  Lahor. 
The  latter  is  a most  respectable  man,  of  clear,  good 
mind,  and  pleasing  manners,  without  the  obsequious- 
ness so  common,  and  with  much  apparent  sincerity. 
I have  become  much  interested  in  him.  We  had  a 
good  deal  of  conversation,  chiefly  on  religious  sub- 
jects. He  inquired  what  was  the  appearance  of 
God,  how  we  could  think  of  him,  &c.  In  reply,  I 
illustrated  my  remarks  by  referring  to  our  own 
spirits.  He  seemed  interested  in  hearing  of  the 
way  our  Sacred  Scriptures  teach  that  sin  can  be 
pardoned,  and  also  of  the  intellectual  and  social 
elevation  of  the  female  sex  in  Christian  countries. 
He  wished  to  know  whether  their  advantages  were 
owing  to  our  religion,  or  to  our  usage  or  custom.  I 
told  him  of  their  condition  when  our  forefathers 
were  heathens.  Expressing  his  warm  wishes  that 


the  tan-jab  and  the  sikhs.  181? 

my  health  may  be  restored,  so  that  I might  remain 
in  this  country,  and  he  might  become  better 
acquainted  with  me  in  future,  kind  feelings  which  1 
sincerely  reciprocated  with  my  best  wishes  in  return, 
Ave  exchanged  our  last  farewell.  I could  not  but 
feel  sorry  at  parting  with  these  men.  In  many  res* 
pects,  they  are  interesting  men,  whose  acquaintance 
I have  been  glad  to  make,  and  with  whom  my  inter* 
course  has  been  of  a varied  and  friendly  nature, 
But  now  we  have  parted,  most  probably  never  to 
meet  again.  What  a precious  hope  Christian  friends 
enjoy  when  separated  ! Whatever  be  their  path  on 
earth,  they  can  look  upwards  to  a place  of  meeting, 
to  say,  Farewell,  no  more  for  ever. 

The  following  summary  views  of  the  informa* 
tion  acquired  during  this  tour  were  communicated 
to  the  Secretary  of  the  Society,  on  returning  to 
Lodiana. 

1.  Population. — It  is  not  easy  to  form  an  estimate 
that  would  be  at  ail  accurate.  It  is  probable  that 
Ranjit  Singh’s  rule  extends  over  two  millions  of 
persons;  of  whom  the  greater  part  occupy  the  coun- 
try bounded  by  the  Sutlej,  the  Indus,  and  the  Hima- 
laya mountains,  including  the  valley  of  Cashmere, 
and  the  Hill  States  on  the  south-western  sides  of 
those  mountains  from  the  river  Sutlej  to  Cashmere. 
Ranjit  ha3,  within  the  last  few  years,  made  some 
conquests  on  the  western  side  of  the  Indus  ; and 
has,  at  present,  possession  of  Peshawer,  one  of  the 
chief  Affghan  cities.  It  is  doubtful  whether  he 


188 


THE  PAN  JAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


will  be  able,  or  deem  it  expedient  to  retain  these 
conquests. 

2.  Climate. — The  name  Panjab,  pronounced  as  if 
written  Punjaub,  in  strict  propriety,  belongs  only  to 
the  plains ; while  a large  section  of  the  country, 
descending  from  the  Himalaya  mountains,  is  quite 
hilly.  Both  these  regions,  and  also  part  of  the  region 
south  and  east  of  the  Sutlej,  are  classed  by  the  older 
writers  under  the  general  name  of  the  Province  of 
Lahor ; of  which  the  population  is  said  to  be  about 
four  millions.  The  climate  of  the  plains  is  much 
more  oppressively  hot  during  the  warm  season  of  the 
year,  that  is,  from  March  to  November,  than  that  of 
the  hills.  The  heat  is  probably  as  great  as  in  almost 
any  part  of  Upper  India;  and  there  is  the  same 
variation  of  seasons,  as  hot,  rainy,  &c.  In  the  cold 
season  the  thermometer  falls  as  low  sometimes  as  the 
freezing  point,  in  the  plains.  Last  winter,  in  which 
there  were  some  very  cold  mornings,  the  thermome- 
ter, at  Lodiana,  was  once  down  to  28°  in  the  open 
air  at  sunrise.  Lodiana  is  in  neai'ly  the  same  lati- 
tude as  Lahor,  and  about  equally  distant  from  the 
hills.  Throughout  this  region,  the  hot  winds  begin 
to  blow  in  April,  and  are  very  trying  to  the  health 
of  foreigners. 

3.  Language.-— The  spoken  language  seems  to  be 
substantially  that  of  the  Hindus  generally.  It  is, 
however,  called  the  Panjabi,  and  contains  an  admix- 
ture of  many  Persian  words.  There  are  three  or 
four  characters  in  use : the  Persian,  for  the  Persian 
language,  and  also  for  the  Hindustani ; the  Dev 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS, 


189 


Nagari,  for  the  Hindui,  which  differs  but  little  from 
the  Hindustani ; the  Gurmukhi,  for  the  written  lan- 
guage of  the  Sikhs;  the  Kashmiri,  for  the  written 
language  of  Cashmere.  The  two  last  characters  are 
obviously  derived  from  the  Nagari  ; and  I should 
think  the  dialects,  which  receive  these  names,  differ 
but  little  from  the  common  language  of  the  Hindus. 

4.  Education. — It  is  not  probable  that  one  person 
in  every  hundred  is  able  to  read.  Of  those  who  can 
read,  the  four  fifths,  probably,  read  only  the  Persian. 
A few  of  the  Sikhs  read  the  Gurmukhi ; and  a few 
of  the  Cashmerians,  perhaps,  read  Kashmiri ; though 
I never  met  with  a Cashmerian  who  could  read  that 
character,  while  I have  met  with  several  who  could 
read  the  Persian. 

Of  those  who  acquire  a knowledge  of  the  writ- 
ten language,  few  learn  anything  beyond  the  sim- 
plest rudiments.  There  are  scarcely  any  books,  and 
there  are  none  suitable  for  purposes  of  instruction. 
The  schools  are  very  few,  and  under  the  worst  ma- 
nagement. Sometimes  the  teachers  are  paid  by  reli- 
gious persons,  or  else,  as  is  most  common,  are  them- 
selves religious  persons,  such  as  Fakirs.  In  other 
instances,  a trifling  sum  is  paid  by  each  scholar. 
No  effort  is  made  to  develope  the  minds  of  the  scholars. 
Everything  is  learned  by  rote.  In  the  Mussulman 
schools,  for  higher  scholars,  one  of  the  first  things  is 
to  teach  the  boy  to  read  the  Koran  in  Arabic,  with- 
out even  pretending  to  teach  him  the  meaning  of  a 
single  word.  And  this  is  considered  rather  a high 
attainment.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  Hindu  and 


190 


?H£  PANJAB  AND  THti  SIKHS, 


Sikh  pandits  and  gurus,  and  sometimes  for  the  Mus- 
sulman maulavis,  to  expound  their  respective  sacred 
writings  at  the  places  of  religious  resort ; and  thus 
a species  of  knowledge  is  learned  by  sotne  of  the 
people.  But  in  all  the  parts  of  India  where  I have 
been,  it  is  not  unusual  to  see  a religious  man  bawling 
away  without  receiving  the  least  attention  ; though 
he  may  be  sitting  in  the  most  sacred  place,  and 
reading,  or  rather  chanting,  their  most  sacred  writ- 
ings, 

5.  Government. — "Originally,  the  people  were  go- 
verned by  numerous  chiefs,  who  were  independent  of 
each  other,  though  of  very  unequal  power.  These 
chiefs  were  brought  into  subjection  to  Ranjtt  Singh, 
who  would  no  doubt  have  extended  his  power  over 
the  chiefs  on  the  south-eastern  side  the  Sutlej  also, 
if  they  had  not  applied  for  and  received  English 
protection.  Some  of  the  conquered  chiefs  Ranjit 
removed  altogether  from  their  possessions  ; others  he 
permitted  to  retain  their  districts,  variously  altered  ; 
but  exacted  from  them  a kind  of  tribute—either  a 
quota  of  troops,  or  an  annual  payment  in  money  ; or 
in  some  cases  both  of  these  acknowledgments  of 
subjection.  On  the  death  of  one  of  these  inferior 
rulers,  further  changes  were  often  made  ; though  the 
general  usage  is  that  the  son  shall  succeed  the  father. 
Frequently  persons  in  favor  are  rewarded  with  tracts 
of  country  in  jaghir,  that  is,  for  which  they  pay  a 
specified  sum,  and  then  have  the  entire  management 
of  the  collection  of  revenue,  administration  of  jus- 
tice, &c.,  in  these  particular  districts.  They  may 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


191 


act  as  oppressively  as  they  please  ; and  usually  they 
do  extort  as  large  an  amount  from  the  poor  as  they 
can.  It  is  very  seldom  that  any  appeal  is  made  ; as 
it  would  require  too  much  money,  in  the  way  of 
bribes  to  the  courtiers,  to  bring  grievances  to  the 
notice  of  the  Maha  Rajah  ; and  as  it  would  not  be 
certain  that  redress  would  be  obtained,  even  if  a 
hearing  could  be  secured.  It  was  very  much  owing 
to  the  oppressive  administration  of  one  of  these 
favorites,  or  rather  of  his  myrmidons,  that  the  beau- 
tiful valley  of  Cashmere  has  become  so  desolate. 

This  mode  of  government  probably  suits  Ranjlt’s 
acquirements  better  than  any  other.  As  he  can 
neither  read  nor  write,  it  would  be  troublesome  to 
examine  the  usual  forms  and  records  of  pi'oceed- 
ings  ; while  now  he  holds  comparatively  a few  per- 
sons responsible  for  certain  specified  sums.  Yet  it 
is  obviously  liable  to  great  abuse.  Some  of  the 
Sardars,  or  chiefs,  have  large  revenues.  One  or  two 
have  each  about  twelve  lakhs  of  rupees  yearly,  equal 
to  six  hundred  thousand  dollars ; another,  seven 
lakhs,  another  five,  &c.,  but  the  greater  part  of 
them  are  much  less  powerful.  The  chiefs  are  all 
Sikhs,  I believe ; but  many  holders  of  jaghirs  are 
Hindus  and  Mussulmans.  There  seems  to  be  no  law 
in  the  Panjab  ; though  there  is,  in  regard  to  many 
things,  long  established  custom.  By  all  accounts, 
justice  would  seem  to  be  regarded  as  a thing  to  be 
bought  and  sold.  Punishment,  even  for  murder,  is 
said  to  be  rarely  inflicted,  when  a sufficient  sum  of 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


1 92 

money  can  be  offered  by  the  criminal.  Fines  are 
the  most  common  punishment. 

Ranjit  Singh  is  certainly  a man  of  superior  mind, 
and  of  no  ordinary  character.  All  his  measures,  and 
his  conversation,  evince  great  sagacity,  prudence, 
and  acquaintance  with  the  strong  points  of  the  sub- 
ject under  his  consideration.  He  is  much  superior 
to  many  of  the  prejudices  and  jealousies  of  the  Hin- 
dus, and  seems  anxious  to  imitate  those  things  in 
the  policy  or  the  customs  of  other  people  which 
are  better  than  his  own.  Thus,  he  has  introduced 
amongst  his  people,  the  manufacture  of  various 
foreign  implements  of  war,  of  several  fabrics  of 
cloth,  &c.  He  has  effected  a striking  change  in  the 
military  force  of  the  Sikhs.  Formerly,  every  Sikh 
was  a horseman,  and  no  other  kind  of  force  was  in 
existence  than  this  rude  cavalry.  Ranjit  took  into 
his  service  several  French  officers,  and  followed  their 
advice  after  carefully  comparing  it  with  the  English 
mode  of  warfare  ; and  now  he  has  a large  and  pretty 
well  organized  and  disciplined  army  of  infantry, 
with  the  usual  proportion  of  artillery.  He  was,  in 
his  younger  days,  of  dissipated  habits,  the  effects  of 
which  he  now  feels  severely.  He  is  of  a licentious 
disposition;  fond  of  display,  yet  avaricious;  very 
inquisitive;  inclined  to  pay  a superstitious  reverence 
to  holy  men,  even  though  of  a different  religion  ; 
passionately  fond  of  fine  horses ; very  anxious  to 
please  the  English  ; blind  of  one  eye  ; about  sixty- 
three  years  of  age.  What  a confused  account  of 
his  character,  you  will  be  ready  to  say  1 So  it  is  ; 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


193 


yet  not  more  miscellaneous  than  the  character 
itself. 

It  is  understood,  that  he  is  anxious  his  grandson 
should  succeed  himself  in  the  chief  rule.  But  there 
is  no  particular  bond  of  union,  excepting  the  personal 
reputation  and  will  of  Ranjit  himself,  to  prevent 
the  political  affairs  of  the  Panjab  from  relapsing  into 
their  former  anarchy.  The  moment  Ranjit  dies,  it  is 
highly  probable  that  all  this  region  of  country  will 
be  in  confusion,  and  a dozen  of  chiefs  will  declare 
themselves  independent.  Perhaps  such  a state  of 
things  will  then  follow  as  will  bring  the  Panjab  under 
British  protection,  and  make  the  Indus,  instead  of 
the  Sutlej,  the  frontier  line.  Such  a change  would 
be  fraught  with  blessings  to  the  people.* 

’ 6.  Religion. — The  great  majority  of  the  people  of 
the  Panjab  are  Hindus,  especially  those  of  the  lower 
classes.  The  Mussulmans  are  treated  writh  less  for- 
bearance and  favor  than  the  Hindus  ; and  form,  per- 
haps, a fourth  or  fifth  part  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
Sikhs  are  said  not  to  constitute  more  than  a twelfth 
or  fifteenth  part  of  the  population.  They  evidently 
are  much  more  allied  to  the  Hindus  than  to  the  Mus- 

* This  ruler  has  been  called  hence  by  death.  His  obsequies  were 
celebrated  with  great  parade  and  expense,  and  a dreadful  tragedy  was 
witnessed  in  the  self-immolation  on  his  funeral  pile  of  no  less  than 
eleven  women  ! Four  of  his  wives  and  seven  concubines  cast  them- 
selves into  the  flames  which  consumed  his  body,  and  miserably  per- 
ished ! — The  Punjab  continued  for  some  time  in  a quiet  state  under 
his  sons,  who  succeeded  to  the  throne.  Then  followed  a time  of 
anarchy  ; then,  the  furious  onsets  of  the  Sikh  army  against  the  British  ; 
and  now,  in  1850,  the  Panjab  is  a part  of  British  India. 


J94 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


sulmans  in  their  worship,  and  in  their  customs.  The 
system  of  caste  prevails,  more  or  less,  among  all  these 
sects ; though  in  regard  to  the  Sikhs  and  the  Mus- 
sulmans, it  is  not  enjoined  by  their  religion ; or 
rather,  it  is  contrary  to  their  creed,  especially  to 
that  of  the  Sikhs;  but  throughout  India  usage  is  all- 
powerful.  It  is  supposed  that  this  detestable  system 
has  less  hold  on  the  affections  of  the  people  in  this 
part  of  India,  than  in  most  other  regions  of  the  coun- 
try. Hindus,  when  they  become  Sikhs,  do  not 
renounce  caste,  except  as  it  bears  on  one  or  two 
inferior  points.  In  the  more  important  matters  of 
food,  and  of  matrimonial  connexions,  they  adhere 
as  rigidly  as  ever  to  the  requisitions  of  their  caste. 

The  Sikhs  are  divided  into  two  general  classes, 
the  Sikhs  and  the  Singhs — the  disciples  and  the 
lions,  as  the  terms  literally  import.  The  latter  title 
is  given  to  the  followers  of  Guru  Govind  Singh,  who 
infused  a military  spirit  into  the  Sikh  religion.  The 
term  Singh  does  not  exclude,  however,  the  use  of 
the  common  appellative,  Sikh.  It  is  rather  employed 
as  one  of  the  names  of  individuals  ; while  the  title  of 
Sikh  is  given  to  all  the  followers  of  that  religion. 
There  are  some  points  of  difference  in  the  faith  of 
the  two  classes  ; but  they  relate  chiefly  to  the  more 
military  spirit  of  the  followers  of  Govind  Singh. 
Hamilton  remarks  in  his  Gazetteer: 

“ The  religion  of  the  Sikhs  is  described  as  a creed 
of  pure  deism,  blended  with  the  belief  of  all  the 
absurdities  of  Hindu  mythology,  and  the  fables  of 
Mohammedanism.  Nanak  Shah,  the  founder  of  this 
religion,  professed  a desire  to  reform,  but  not  to  des- 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


195 


troy  the  religion  of  the  sect  in  which  he  was  born  ; 
and  endeavored  to  reconcile  the  jarring  faiths  of  Brah- 
ma and  Mohammed,  by  persuading  each  to  reject 
particular  parts  of  their  respective  belief  and  usages. 

“The  earlier  successors  of  Nanak  taught  nearly 
the  same  doctrine ; but  Guru  Govind  gave  a new 
character  to  the  religion  of  his  followers  by  many 
material  alterations  ; more  especially  by  the  aboli- 
tion of  all  distinctions  of  caste.  The  pride  of  descent 
might  still  remain  and  keep  up  some  distinction  ; but 
in  the  religious  creed  of  Guru  Govind  all  Sikhs,  or 
Singhs,  are  declared  equal.  The  admission  of  pro- 
selytes, the  abolition  of  caste,  the  eating  of  all  kinds 
of  flesh  except  that  of  cows,  the  form  of  religious 
worship  [having  no  idols  or  representatives  of  God], 
and  the  general  devotion  of  the  Singhs  to  arms,  are 
all  at  variance  with  the  Hindu  theology.” 

Again  : “ The  Sikh  Hindu  converts  continue  all 

those  civil  usages  and  customs  of  the  tribe  to  which 
they  belonged,  that  they  can  practise  without  infring- 
ing the  tenets  of  Nanak  or  the  institutions  of  Guru 
Govind.  They  are  very  strict  respecting  diet  and 
intermarriages.  The  Mohammedan  converts,  who 
become  Sikhs,  intermarry  with  each  other  ; but  are 
allowed  to  preserve  none  of  their  usages,  being  oblig- 
ed to  eat  hog’s  flesh,  and  to  abstain  from  circumci- 
sion. The  Sikhs,  or  Singhs,  are  forbidden  the  use  of 
tobacco ; but  are  allowed  to  indulge  in  spirituous 
liquors,  which  they  all  drink  to  excess,  The  use  of 
opium  and  bang  is  also  quite  common.  The  military 
Sikhs  never  cut  their  hair,  nor  shave  their  beards,” 


196 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


and  are  required  to  wear  steel,  in  some  shape,  as  a 
badge  of  their  sect. 

The  religious  people  of  the  Sikhs,  or  rather,  of 
those  Sikhs  who  are  followers  of  Guru  Govind,  are 
called  Akalis,  that  is  immortals  ; or  more  frequently 
by  the  natives  Nihangs.  They  formerly  directed 
the  national  council  when  it  was  assembled,  the  Guru- 
mala ; but  there  has  been  no  meeting  of  that  body 
since  1805,  and  there  will  not  probably  ever  be 
another.  I have  not  been  able  to  learn  that  they 
have  any  particular  duties  to  perform  as  ministers  of 
religion.  I should  think  they  are  of  the  same  order 
as  the  religious  mendicants  of  the  Hindus.  Their 
number  is  variously  estimated.  Perhaps,  including 
their  families,  it  may  amount  to  thirteen  thousand 
persons,  or  some  three  or  four  thousand  men.  They 
receive  their  support  chiefly  from  offerings  made  to 
the  Sikh  temples  ; particularly  at  Amritsir,  where  it 
is  said  there  are  nearly  two  thousand  of  these  Akalis. 
Others,  however,  hold  small  jaghirs  from  the  Govern- 
ment. Their  character  is  exceedingly  bad.  They 
are  a lawless  and  desperately  depraved  set  of  men. 
Some  of  the  most  shameless  things  I have  ever  heard 
of  have  been  done  in  open  daylight,  in  public  places, 
by  some  of  these  people.  The  common  remark  is, 
that  they  are  the  worst  people  in  the  land.  They 
always  go  strongly  armed ; and  as  they  are  quite 
fanatical,  persons  of  other  religious  sects  have  much 
to  fear  from  their  approach.  In  1808,  a large  body 
of  them  attacked  the  English  Ambassador,  then  in 
the  Panjab,  who  was  obliged,  with  his  guard,  to  fight 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


197 


fox'  his  life.  They  have  even  insulted  Ranjit  Singh  ; 
but  he  has,  within  a few  years,  imposed  some  re- 
straints on  them ; and  they  are  now  regarded  as  less 
dangerous,  though  not  less  depraved,  than  they  wei'e 
formerly.  There  is  reason  to  hope  that  the  very 
wickedness  of  these  people  will  contribute  much  to 
cut  shoi't  their  sway,  and  to  render  men  more  willing 
to  receive  the  teachers  of  our  mild  and  pui'e  religion. 

Amritsir  is  the  chief  place  of  religious  l’esort ; 
but,  in  addition  to  the  saci’ed  reservoir  at  that  city, 
there  are  several  other  places  of  religious  notoriety  ; 
as  the  birth-place  of  Nanak,  &c.  Some  of  the 
Sikhs  make  pilgrimages,  also,  to  the  great  Hindu 
place  of  worship  at  Hai'dwar.  At  Amritsir  there 
are  a number  of  gurus,  or  religious  teachers,  whose 
business  is  to  read  and  to  explain  the  Granth,  their 
sacred  book.  Some  of  them  are  very  respectable 
looking  men. 

Concerning  the  expediency  of  forming  at  that 
time  a mission  establishment  in  the  Panjab,  the  fol- 
lowing extract  from  a letter  of  March  26,  1835,  will 
show  the  opinions  formed  after  making  this  joui'ney. 

“ I have  been  much  impi'essed  with  the  importance 
of  having  an  efficient  mission  in  this  field,  in  the 
first  instance  at  Lodiana,  and  perhaps  at  some  other 
places  on  the  British  side  of  the  Sutlej,  but  eventu- 
ally to  operate  directly  in  the  Panjab. 

“ In  these  regions  there  are  dense  multitudes  of 
people  ; not  at  all  inferior  in  body  or  mind,  naturally, 
,to  any  other  that  I have  ever  seen,  and  far  superior 


198 


THE  PANJAB  AND  THE  SIKHS. 


to  the  great  mass  of  Hindus,  being  energetic,  inqui- 
sitive,  and  sagacious  ; occupying,  also,  a tract  of 
country  that  is  immediately  connected  with  several 
other  countries  in  which  nothing  has  yet  been 
attempted  in  making  known  our  Saviour’s  gospel. 
The  claims  of  the  people  of  the  Panjab  themselves, 
on  our  benevolence,  are  very  great,  and  require  an 
extensive  and  efficient  effort  to  meet  them  ; and  they 
assume  still  greater  importance  when  we  consider 
that  these  are  just  the  people,  in  character  and  in 
geographical  situation,  to  carry  the  knowledge  of 
our  holy  religion  throughout  Central  Asia.  They 
have  not  now  either  knowledge  or  inclination  to  do 
so.  They  are  themselves  dark-minded  and  depraved. 
But  I trust  our  Christian  mission  is  the  morning  star 
that  is  to  precede  the  full  day  of  gospel  light  and 
influence  among  this  interesting  people. 

“ I am  not  prepared,  however,  to  conclude  that  it 
is  expedient  to  attempt  forming  a branch  of  our  mis- 
sion on  that  side  of  the  Sutlej  at  present,  though  it 
might  be  practicable  to  do  so.  We  had  better 
occupy  first  some  of  the  important  places  which  are 
open  to  us  in  the  part  of  India  under  English  rule  or 
direct  influence,  where  we  are  not  so  liable  to  capri- 
cious interruption,  and  where  we  can  enjoy  some 
advantages  from  the  intercourse,  and  in  some 
instances,  from  the  friendship  of  Europeans.  There 
are  several  places  on  this  side  of  Benares,  where  it 
would  be  extremely  desirable  to  have  such  a mission 
as  that  of  our  American  brethren  in  Ceylon,  there 
being  ample  scope  for  the  largest  efforts.” 


NOTES  ON  THE  PROTECTED  HILL  STATES.  199 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

LODIANA  TO  SIMLA;  THE  HILL  TRIBES. 

Arrival  of  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton  at  Calcutta — Leave 
Lodiana  for  Simla — English  Society — Notes  on  the  Protected  Hill 
States : Face  of  the  Country  ; Snowy  Mountains ; Productions ; 
Animals  ; Climate  ; Population  ; Agriculture  ; Religion  ; Language  ; 
Character  of  the  People  ; Valley  of  Kanaur. 

After  reaching  Lodiana,  on  my  return  from 
Lahor,  I had  the  great  satisfaction  of  receiving  letters 
from  my  missionary  brethren,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  John 
Newton  and  James  Wilson,  just  arrived  with  their 
wives  at  Calcutta,  and  accompanied  by  Miss  Davis. 
Though  so  far  distant,  and  so  many  months  would 
intervene  before  they  could  reach  Lodiana,  I 
could  not  but  feel  most  grateful  that  they  were  in 
the  country,  to  share  with  me  a responsibility  which 
should  never  rest  on  one  man,  that  of  laying  the 
foundation  of  a system  of  efforts  for  the  conver- 
sion of  multitudes  ; and  at  the  same  time  giving  the 
best  assurance  that  the  mission  now  partially  esta- 
blished would  be  extended  and  carried  forward  by  the 
Church.  Often,  in  hours  of  depression,  I had  been 
ready  to  give  way  to  discouragement,  fearing  that 
our  efforts  must  be  suspended,  if  not  altogether  aban- 
doned. The  prospect  now  appeared  far  brighter. 

10 


200 


NOTES  ON  THE 


Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton  reached  Calcutta  on 
the  25th  of  February,  1835,  after  a very  favorable 
voyage  of  one  hundred  and  ten  days,  in  the  ship 
Georgia,  from  Boston.  Stopping  at  Calcutta  until  the 
25th  of  June,  they  then  commenced  their  voyage  up 
the  Ganges  in  a pinnace,  a larger  boat  than  a budge- 
row,  intending  to  proceed  in  tents  after  leaving  the 
river  at  Futtehgurh,  and  expecting  to  reach  Lodiana 
about  the  1st  of  November.  Miss  Davis  afterwards 
became  connected  in  marriage  with  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Goadby,  a worthy  Baptist  missionary  from  the  pro- 
vince of  Orissa,  south  of  Bengal. 

In  the  meantime,  following  the  doctor’s  advice,  I 
had  gone  up  to  Simla  to  spend  the  hot  and  rainy  sea- 
sons of  the  year.  This  is  a station  to  which  many 
Europeans  resort  for  health,  its  elevation  making  the 
temperature  pleasant  even  in  the  hottest  days  on  the 
plains.  The  houses  are  built  around  the  sides  of 
what  is  called  Mount  Jakko,  perhaps  five  hundred 
feet  below  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  which  is 
about  eight  thousand  feet  high.  Many  of  the  houses 
stand  detached  from  each  other,  in  the  midst  of  the 
forest  trees  ; and  they  have  a singularly  wild  “ look 
out,”  as  the  descent  below  them  is  precipitous  and 
deep,  into  the  narrow  valleys  that  lead  off  in  different 
directions,  and  the  sublime  snowy  ranges  can  be 
seen  in  the  distance.  The  number  of  natives  at 
Simla  is  not  large ; in  the  winter  it  is  almost  desert- 
ed ; but  during  the  six  or  seven  months  that  Europe- 
ans spend  there,  many  petty  shopkeepers,  of  differ- 
ent kinds,  bring  their  articles  of  traffic  from  the 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


201 


plains,  and  give  to  the  Simla  bazar  rather  a lively 
appearance.  The  whole  native  population  never 
exceeds,  probably,  a few  hundred.  Of  English  peo- 
ple, during  the  summer  of  1835,  there  were  from 
one  hundred  and  thirty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty, 
including  a number  of  ladies.  This  was  a larger 
number,  I was  informed,  than  had  visited  the  station 
in  any  previous  season. 

Of  the  Europeans  some  were  decidedly  religious 
people,  and  I should  suppose  nearly  all  regarded 
religious  institutions  with  respect.  The  attendance 
on  our  service  on  Sundays  often  amounted  to  eighty, 
which  was  considered  a good  number,  as  some  were 
often  absent  on  tours  into  the  interior,  and  others 
were  in  poor  health.  It  has  seldom  been  my  good 
fortune  to  meet  with  so  many  intelligent  and  agree- 
able people  in  so  small  a company  ; and  those  with 
whom  I was  less  acquainted,  I am  not  disposed  to 
think  less  interesting.  Of  the  more  religiously 
inclined  visitors  I cannot  speak  too  highly.  I 
admired  the  character  of  their  religion,  which  I 
thought  unaffected,  teachable,  and  cordial,  and  at 
the  same  time  well  informed  and  cheerful.  Of  the 
ladies  it  becomes  me  to  speak  with  due  reserve,  and 
yet  thankfulness  for  their  kindness  must  be  my  excuse 
for  paying  my  willing  tribute  to  their  agreeable  man- 
ners and  their  unaffected  excellence.  I thought 
them  in  manner,  accomplishment,  and  intelligence, 
very  similar  to  ladies  of  our  best  society  at  home. 
Many  very  pleasant  and  well-spent  hours  were 


202 


NOTES  ON  THE 


enjoyed  with  these  Christian  friends.  The  remem- 
brance of  them  is  still  fresh,  and  must  ever  be  sacred. 
And  now  widely  separated  from  them,  and  they  from 
each  other,  my  fervent  prayer  is  that  we  may  here- 
after meet  in  a better  world. 

During  this  summer  I endeavored  to  obtain  accu- 
rate information  concerning  the  Hill  States,  making 
tours  into  the  interior  for  this  purpose,  and  consulting 
with  English  gentlemen  who  had  lived  in  them  a 
number  of  years.  The  following  notes  were  made 
out  shortly  after  leaving  the  Hills ; they  present  the 
result  of  the  summer’s  inquiries  and  observations  in 
regard  to  a peculiar  region  of  India,  and  a simple 
minded  and  primitive  people. 

The  people,  who  inhabit  the  hilly  region,  which 
lies  between  the  snowy  Himalaya  mountains  and  the 
Plains  of  India,  are  divided  into  numerous  small 
states,  under  their  own  chiefs ; and,  as  they  have 
been  under  the  protection  of  the  British  power  for 
several  years,  they  are  usually  called  “ The  Protected 
Hill  States.” 

1.  As  I have  just  stated,  the  snowy  mountains  and 
the  level  plains  of  upper  India  are  the  two  chief 
boundaries  of  this  region.  Between  them,  and 
extending  in  a direction  parallel  to  those  mountains, 
that  is,  from  North  West  to  South  East,  these  hill 
states  are  situated.  The  river  Sutlej  forms  the 
dividing  line  between  them  and  the  similar  regions 
belonging  to  Ranjit  Singh,  the  Ruler  of  Lahor.  In 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


203 


the  opposite,  or  South  Eastern  direction,  the  west 
branch  of  the  river  Gogra  separates  them  from  the 
territories  of  Nepal. 

The  length  of  this  region  is  probably  between  one 
hundred  and  fifty  and  two  hundred  miles  ; and  the 
breadth  may  be  stated  at  from  fifty  to  seventy  or 
eighty  miles.  Yet  this  estimate  must  be  regarded  as 
not  very  definite,  since  it  is  modified  by  the  charac- 
ter of  the  country  in  particular  places.  The  valley 
of  Kanaur,  for  example,  belongs  to  one  of  these 
states.  It  is  almost  entirely  surrounded  by  the 
regions  of  snow,  and  extends  towards  Chinese  Tar- 
tary probably  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the 
nearest  part  of  the  Plains. 

2.  The  face  of  the  country  is  extremely  irregular 
and  hilly,  as  the  name  of  the  chiefdoms  implies. 
Yet  the  term  hills  can  be  used  to  describe  these 
mountainous  regions  only  for  the  convenience  of 
having  some  word  to  distinguish  them  from  the  snowy 
regions,  as  the  peaks  and  ridges  of  these  lower  moun- 
tains rise  to  an  elevation  of  from  two  thousand  to 
upwards  of  six  thousand  feet  in  height,  and  not  a few 
are  eight  thousand,  nine  thousand,  &c.  In  many 
parts  of  the  world  such  elevations  would  be  accounted 
lofty  mountains  ; and  might  be  so  considered  here, 
were  it  not  that  the  snowy  regions  are  always  seen 
towering  up  to  such  a height,  that  these  mountains 
seem  but  hills  in  comparison  with  them.  These 
mountains  resemble  a large  number  of  high,  irregular 
peaks  and  ridges  jumbled  together  in  every  kind  of 
confusion,  or  at  any  rate,  of  variety.  But  frequently, 


204 


NOTES  ON  THE 


one  peak,  or  short  ridge,  may  be  seen  rising  consi- 
derably higher  than  its  neighbors  ; and  often,  an  irre- 
gular ridge  may  be  traced  for  several  miles,  leading, 
in  many  instances,  from  one  of  these  high  peaks  to 
others.  Thus  Jakko,  the  mountain  around  the  sides 
of  which  the  Station  of  Simla  is  built,  is  about  eight 
thousand  feet  high;  and  from  Jakko  a lofty  but  crooked 
ridge  runs  ten  or  twelve  miles  eastward  to  Mahassu, 
a mountain  nearly  nine  thousand  feet  high.  In  no 
part  of  these  regions  do  the  mountains  run  in  regu- 
lar ranges,  with  level  valleys  intervening,  like  our 
Alleghany  Mountains.  Indeed  between  the  peaks 
or  the  ridges  there  is  seldom  any  level  ground  at  all ; 
but  their  sides  decline  at  varying  inclinations  from 
the  top  to  the  bottom.  The  sides  are  frequently 
quite  abrupt  or  precipitous,  and  commonly  very 
irregular.  At  the  bottom,  or  foot  of  the  mountain, 
in  the  Kud,  as  it  is  called,  a water  channel  usually 
forms  the  boundary  between  one  mountain  and  its 
adjoining  neighbor.  The  northern  sides  of  these 
mountains  are  sometimes  covered  with  dense  pine 
forests  ; but  the  southern  and  south-eastern  sides  are 
commonly  destitute  of  trees,  and  present  a barren 
and  cheerless  aspect,  possessing  little  interest,  except 
where  the  people  have  been  able  to  cultivate  them. 
It  may  be  owing  to  the  effects  of  the  rains  during 
the  rainy  season,  which  beat  with  great  violence  on 
the  south-east  sides  of  the  mountains,  that  there  is  so 
marked  a difference  between  their  different  sides. 

The  great  defect  in  the  scenery  of  these  moun- 
tains is  the  want  of  water.  There  are  but  few 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


205 


rivers ; and  these  are  commonly  very  small,  except 
during  the  rains,  when  every  valley  has  its  foaming 
torrent.  At  other  seasons  of  the  year,  a person  may 
travel  “up  and  down  hill”  all  the  day  without  seeing 
a brook,  or  even  a spring ; unless  he  ascends  some 
of  the  highest  peaks,  or  descends  quite  to  the  bottom 
of  some  of  the  valleys. 

3.  The  snowy  mountains,  in  clear  weather,  are 
seen  with  distinct  view  from  nearly  all  the  higher 
parts  of  the  Protected  Hill  States.  They  may  also 
be  seen  very  distinctly  from  many  places  in  the 
Plains  of  Upper  India,  when  the  atmosphere  is  clear, 
and  especially  after  there  has  been  rain.  There  is 
a remarkably  fine  distant  view  of  them  from  Lodi- 
ana,  although  that  city  cannot  be  less  than  from  one 
hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant  from 
the  mountains.  From  Simla  the  nearer  ranges  of 
snow-covered  mountains  are  not  distant  in  a direct 
line  more  than  thirty  or  forty  miles. 

The  view  of  these  mountains,  as  seen  from  seve- 
ral places  in  these  Hill  States,  is  extremely  grand. 
I have  looked  at  them  for  hours  from  the  summit  of 
Hatu,  and  also  of  Ivupar,  the  former  ten  thousand 
six  hundred  feet  high,  the  latter  eleven  thousand  feet. 
These  mountains,  themselves  covered  with  snow 
during  several  months  of  the  year,  are  not  distant 
probably  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  from  the 
regions  of  perpetual  snow ; so  that,  in  a clear  day, 
the  view  is  perfectly  well-defined,  and  beyond  de- 
scription imposing.  The  peaks  and  ridges,  viewed 
from  this  side,  seem  to  have  nearly  all  of  them  a 


206 


NOTES  ON  THE 


slight  inclination  to  the  north-east.  They  appear 
much  less  varied  in  form  than  one  may  suppose  they 
would  appear  if  deprived  of  their  snowy  covering. 
The  snow,  no  doubt,  conceals  many  an  irregular 
projection,  and  many  a frightful  chasm,  and  gives  an 
air  of  uniformity  to  the  outline  of  the  whole.  The 
valleys  are  generally  much  filled  with  snow,  which 
sometimes  rises  almost  to  the  summits  of  the  ridges, 
and  must  be  of  immense  depth,  fn  so  near  a view, 
the  snow  which  fills  the  valleys  can  often  be  distin- 
guished from  that  which  rests  on  the  ridges  and 
peaks,  by  its  inclination,  and  by  its  more  settled  or 
dense  appearance.  But  most  of  the  peaks  and 
ridges  are  themselves  quite  covered  with  snow. 
They  are  very  irregular  ; some  are  formed  into  long 
ranges ; others  shoot  up  in  separate  elevations  of 
almost  every  shape,  looking  sometimes  like  immense 
battlements  and  towers,  and  sometimes  like  lofty 
piles  of  vast  dilapidated  buildings.  At  a distant 
view  in  the  afternoon,  they  look  not  unlike  great 
masses  or  embankments  of  white  clouds,  brilliantly 
reflecting  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Sometimes  a dark, 
rugged  peak  projects  above  the  snow,  being  probably 
too  vertical  to  admit  of  the  snow’s  resting  upon  it, 
and  affords  a striking  contrast  to  the  pure  and  peace- 
ful appearance  of  the  snow  around  it.  The  differ- 
ence of  their  appearance  before  and  after  the  rains 
is  considerable,  as  much  of  the  snow  becomes  melted, 
leaving  the  summits,  especially  of  the  nearer  and 
lower  ranges,  more  naked  and  dark.  The  heights 
of  a number  of  the  most  elevated  peaks  have  been 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


207 


carefully  ascertained.  Not  less  than  seven  are 
upwards  of  twenty-two  thousand  feet  high ; one  of 
which,  Dewalagiri,  is  about  twenty-seven  thousand 
feet,  and  three  others  about  twenty-five  thousand 
feet.  These  loftiest  parts  of  our  globe,  though  dis- 
tinctly higher  than  other  parts  of  the  Himalaya 
ranges,  are  yet  not  very  prominently  so. 

The  snowy  mountains  may  sometimes  be  traced 
at  one  view  from  the  north-west  towards  the  south- 
east for  probably  two  hundred  miles.  There  is  some- 
thing adapted  to  awaken  deeply  serious  feelings  in 
one’s  mind,  to  look  at  peak  after  peak  stretching 
away  in  the  distance,  and  then  to  invest  each  suc- 
cessive elevation  with  the  well  defined  but  cold 
majesty  which  seems  to  repose  on  the  nearer  moun- 
tains. These  snow-covered  mountains  awaken  feel- 
ings quite  different  from  any  I have  ever  been  con- 
scious of  when  looking  at  other  mountains.  These 
seem  too  pure  for  earth  ; too  unchanging  for  time. 
A person  is  ready  to  look  on  them  as  if  they  were 
regions  commencing  another  world.  They  are  cer- 
tainly adapted  to  elevate  the  thoughts  and  feelings 
to  a higher  world.  They  bear  their  solemn  testimony 
to  God’s  unchanging  greatness,  with  a force  that 
more  words  could  never  impress  on  the  mind.  The 
Christian’s  mind  is  rendered  deeply  reverential.  It 
is  filled  with  thoughts  and  feelings  like  those  of  the 
Psalmist  when  surveying  the  heavens  : '•  Lord,  what 
is  man  that  thou  art  mindful  of  him  !” 

Considering  the  blinding  influence  of  our  depraved 
nature  on.  the  mental  perceptions,  it  is  scarcely  won- 

10* 


208 


notes  on  The 


derful  that  the  poor  Hindu  should,  in  all  ages,  have 
raised  to  these  snow-covered  mountains  “ an  eye  of 
religious  veneration.”  “In  the  Hindu  Pantheon* 
Himalaya  is  deified,  and  described  as  the  father  of 
the  Ganges  and  her  sister  Ooma ; the  latter  being 
the  spouse  of  Mahadeva,  or  Siva,  the  destroying 
power.”  But  we  may  hope,  as  well  as  pray,  that  the 
glorious  light  of  the  Gospel  shall  soon  spread  over 
India.  Then  the  Hindu  shall  raise  his  eye  to  those 
lofty  summits  only  to  aid  his  mind  in  elevating  its 
thoughts  to  the  throne  of  the  great  Creator,  there  to 
render  the  homage  of  humility  and  of  praise. 

4.  There  are  few  Rivers  of  any  note  in  the  Pro-* 
tected  Hill  regions  ; though  both  the  Ganges  and  the 
Jumna  take  their  rise  in  them.  The  Sutlej  runs 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  of  its  course  in  the  country 
protected  by  the  British,  and  then  forms  the  bound- 
ary, as  already  mentioned,  separating  that  country 
from  Ranjit  Singh’s  possessions.  It  is  not  at  all 
navigable  in  the  Hills.  During  the  greater  part  of 
its  course  among  the  mountains,  the  descent  of  the 
water  is  very  great,  and  the  current  is  extremely 
rapid  and  tumultuous.  There  are  several  small 
streams,  sometimes  called  rivers,  of  which  I have 
seen  only  one  deserving  of  notice — the  Giri.  At 
probably  twenty  miles’  distance  from  its  source,  and 
thence  fifty  or  sixty  miles  to  its  junction  with  the 
Jumna,  it  is  about  twenty  yards  wide,  with  an 
average  depth  of  two  feet ; having  a current  of  from 
four  to  six  miles  an  hour.  Its  water  is  remarkably 
clear,  and  runs  over  a rocky  or  pebbly  bed,  some- 


Protected  hill  states. 


209 


times  descending  considerable  declivities  with  great 
noise.  A few  fish  are  found  in  this  river.  Com- 
monly, the  streams  of  water  in  these  hills  are  quite 
destitute  of  fish. 

5.  Among  the  Trees  and  Productions  of  these 
regions,  the  pine  is  the  most  common ; of  which 
there  are  five  or  six  species.  The  larch  and  the 
cedar  are  most  frequently  met  with.  The  former 
resembles  our  American  white  pine  ; and  the  latter, 
the  species  which  in  some  places  is  called  “spruce 
pine.”  One  variety  of  the  pine  in  the  interior  bears 
a small,  oblong,  and  rich  fruit,  of  which  most  persons 
are  quite  fond.  It  is  called  the  pneoza  pine.  There 
is  a species  of  oak,  but  it  is  small  in  size.  On  the 
sides  of  the  higher  mountains  the  maple,  birch,  horse- 
chestnut,  &c.,  are  seen.  The  Rhododendron  is 
everywhere  common.  It  grows  to  the  height  of  the 
locust  or  sassafras  trees  of  America,  and  presents 
a beautiful  appearance  in  the  months  of  March 
and  April,  when  covered  over  witn  its  large  and 
gorgeous  scarlet  flowers.  The  apricot  is  common, 
and  bears  an  excellent  fruit.  Peaches  do  not  come 
to  maturity,  in  consequence  of  the  rains.  The 
apples  are  tolerable,  though  found  only  in  one  or  two 
of  the  valleys.  They  would  become  very  good,  one 
may  suppose,  if  proper  care  were  employed  in 
grafting.  Black  currants  are  abundant  in  some 
parts.  In  Kanaur,  one  of  the  valleys,  there  are 
several  varieties  of  the  grape,  which  form  a good 
part  of  the  subsistence  of  the  inhabitants,  being  dried 
for  that  purpose.  They  are  not  made  into  wine ; 


210 


NOTES  ON  THE  , 


though  sometimes  a strong  and  very  intoxicating 
liquor  is  manufactured  from  them.  Walnut  trees 
and  wild  pears  are  often  seen.  Plantains,  oranges, 
mangoes,  &c.,  are  found  in  the  valleys  near  the 
Plains. 

No  precious  Metals,  lead,  coal,  nor  salt,  have  yet 
been  discovered.  In  a few  places  iron  ore  is  found. 
The  natives  have  very  small  and  simple  furnaces,  in 
which  they  make  an  inferior  kind  of  iron,  The  most 
common  rock  is  the  mica  slate.  On  the  highest 
elevations  gneiss  is  the  usual  species.  Quartz  is 
often  seen  with  both  the  mica  and  the  gneiss. 
Granite  is  rarely  met  with.  Other  varieties  are 
sometimes  found. 

The  Soil  seems  to  be  very  poor,  except  near  the 
bottom  of  the  valleys,  and  in  the  forests  on  the  sides 
of  the  mountains.  In  the  former  it  is  enriched  by 
the  deposits  brought  down  from  the  higher  ground 
by  the  rains.  The  decay  of  vegetable  matter  accounts 
for  the  fertility  of  the  ground  where  there  are  forests. 

The  farmers  cultivate  various  kinds  of  grain ; 
among  which  are  wheat,  maize,  buckwheat,  barley, 
and  several  kinds  of  native  grain.  Among  the  latter 
the  Batu  makes  a very  beautiful  appearance  in  the 
fields,  when  almost  ripe.  It  is  a plume-like  stalk, 
containing  a great  many  seeds  resembling  timothy 
seed ; which  are  ground  into  flour  by  the  natives, 
the  red  covering  or  husks  serving  as  food  for  the 
cattle.  Some  rice  is  cultivated  in  the  valleys.  Pota- 
toes have  been  introduced  by  the  English,  and  grow 
very  well.  The  poppy  is  cultivated  in  order  to  make 


PROTECTED  HILL  SfATES. 


211 


opium  ; of  which  considerable  quantities  are  manu- 
factured. Some  tobacco  is  grown,  and  occasionally 
patches  of  cotton  may  be  seen.  Large  pumpkins, 
cucumbers,  onions,  peas,  &c.,  are  to  be  had ; but  the 
latter,  with  carrots,  beans,  and  strawberries,  are  sel- 
dom cultivated  by  the  natives. 

6.  Among  the*wild  animals  is  a species  of  leopard. 
Jackals  are  common.  Foxes  are  sometimes  seen  ; 
monkeys  more  frequently.  There  are  a few  snakes, 
which  are  seldom  seen,  however,  except  during  the 
rains.  Lizards,  toads,  and  frogs,  seem  to  be  much 
pleased  with  this  climate,  if  a person  may  judge  by 
their  numbers.  Among  the  birds,  crows,  hawks, 
and  kites,  are  always  seen  in  large  numbers  in  the 
vicinity  of  towns  and  villages,  though  they  are  not 
so  very  numerous  as  in  other  parts  of  India.  The 
golden  eagle  may  be  often  observed  proudly  sailing 
over  the  valleys,  and  above  the  highest  mountain 
summits.  They  sometimes  measure  ten  feet  from 
tip  to  tip  of  the  wings.  The  cuckoo,  swallow,  spar- 
row, jay,  and  a variety  of  other  small  birds,  are  com- 
mon during  certain  months  of  the  year.  None  are 
at  all  remarkable  for  sweetness  of  note  ; though  some 
of  them  have  beautiful  plumage.  The  house-fly, 
and  his  enemy  the  spider,  fleas,  and  some  other  not 
more  agreeable  insects,  are  too  common  for  a person’s 
comfort  sometimes.  The  bee  is  quite  common,  and 
honey  is  good,  plenty,  and  cheap. 

The  farmers  commonly  have  one  or  two  buffaloes  ; 
or,  if  not,  small  cows  instead.  The  cow  is  quite  a 
sacred  animal.  At  one  place,  the  natives  refused  to 


NOTES  ON  THB 


212 

milk  them  into  our  Vessels ; though  it  seems  difficult 
to  imagine  how  the  holiness  of  cows  could  be  com 
laminated  by  doing  so.  There  are  no  horses,  except 
such  as  belong  to  the  Ranas,  or  chiefs.  Ploughing 
is  always  done  by  bullocks  or  cows.  Mules  are 
sometimes  used  for  the  transportation  of  merchant 
dise.  Sheep  and  goats  seem  to  thrive  well.  The 
former  all  have  short  horns,  both  male  and  female. 
Fowls  might  be  kept  with  the  greatest  ease,  but  for 
the  religious  prejudices  of  the  natives. 

7.  As  to  the  climate  the  degree  of  heat  or  of  cold 
depends  chiefly  on  the  elevation.  In  the  narrow 
precipitous  valleys  it  is  intolerably  hot  during  the 
summer.  At  Simla,  seven  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  high,  the  thermometer,  in  the  house,  rose  to  80° 
and  82°  last  May ; but  fell  to  64°  and  66°  during 
the  rains.  In  the  latter  end  of  October  there  were 
hard  frosts  on  the  ground  in  the  mornings.  In  the 
winter  there  are  frequent  falls  of  snow  at  Simla) 
"which,  however,  is  soon  melted. 

The  rains  commence  early  in  June,  and  continue 
until  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  September.  They 
are  extremely  heavy ; and  are  attended  sometimes 
with  lightning  and  thunder,  especially  about  their 
commencement  and  termination.  The  worst  fea* 
ture  of  the  rainy  season  is  the  dense  fog  or  mist. 
Which  prevails  very  much  for  two  months.  These 
fogs  I have  not  seen  in  the  Plains.  They  are  very 
dense.  Indeed  they  seem  to  be  literally  clouds, 
heavily  charged  with  moisture,  and  often  so  dense 
that  objects  of  the  largest  size  cannot  be  at  all  seen 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


313 


at  the  distance  of  half  a dozen  yards.  They  often 
rise  suddenly,  and  from  no  conceivable  cause  of  a 
local  nature  ; and  continue  sometimes  for  a few  hours  j 
at  others,  for  days,  if  not  for  weeks.  They  seldom 
settle  lower  down  than  six  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  At  high  elevations  they  remain 
during  all  the  rains.  They  are  very  oppressive  to 
persons  of  weak  lungs,  or  who  are  troubled  with 
difficulty  of  breathing. 

With  the  exception  of  the  sun’s  rays,  and  of  the 
fogs  for  six  weeks  or  two  months  on  the  higher  Hills> 
this  climate  is  considered  very  much  better  than 
that  of  the  Plains  for  persons  coming  from  colder 
latitudes.  There  is  something  refreshing  and  brac^ 
ing  in  the  pure  mountain  air.  A person  feels  here 
some  of  the  elasticity  of  mind  which  he  enjoyed  in 
his  own  country.  He  rises  in  the  morning  refreshed 
by  his  sleep,  and  not  languid,  feverish,  and  spiritless, 
as  during  the  hot  season  in  the  Plains.  I believe 
the  climate  of  these  hills  is  considered  favorable  to 
persons  whose  system  has  become  enfeebled  by  the 
heat  of  the  plains ; to  those  who  are  recovering  from 
fevers ; to  persons  subject  to  derangement  of  the 
functions  of  the  liver,  in  cases  not  constitutional  and 
inveterate.  It  is  probably  favorable  to  most  kinds 
of  disease  in  India.  The  higher  elevations,  however, 
where  the  fogs  prevail,  can  hardly  be  salutary  to 
persons  subject  to  rheumatic  affections,  or  laboring 
under  pulmonary  complaints. 

There  are  three  or  four  places  on  the  Hills  to 
which  English  invalids  resort  for  their  health,  and 
where  medical  men  are  commonly  to  be  met  with 


214 


notes  on  the 


among  the  other  residents,  at  least  during  the 
hot  months.  Of  these  Simla  and  Mussooree  are  the 
two  chief  places  of  resort ; the  latter  station  being 
in  the  Hills  north  of  Meerut.  At  each  of  these  sta- 
tions from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
persons  reside  for  several  months  during  the  summer. 
But  few  remain  during  the  cold  season.  It  is  deemed 
strange  by  some,  that  the  stations  for  invalid  soldiers 
are  not  established  somewhere  in  this  region.  The 
climate  would  certainly  be  more  pleasant  and  salu- 
tary for  them  than  that  of  the  plains.  There  is  at 
Mussooree  a school  for  English  children,  where 
many  branches  of  a respectable  education  are  taught, 
under  the  superintendence  of  a European  teacher 
and  his  sister.  It  is  well  spoken  of,  and  affords 
advantages  not  ordinarily  met  with  in  India,  to  the 
families  who  prefer  a residence  at  that  station,  when 
they  are  obliged  to  go  to  the  Hills.  Sabathu,  on  the 
route  to  Simla,  is  the  station  where  one  of  the  Poli- 
tical Agents  in  these  Hill  States,  and  where  also  a 
medical  officer  permanently  reside.  It  is  only  four 
thousand  feet  high,  and  is  not  much  resorted  to  by 
invalids.  Sabathu  is  one  march  (fifteen  miles)  from 
the  plains,  and  two  marches  from  Simla. 

8.  The  entire  population  in  these  regions  under 
British  protection,  is  estimated  at  two  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  persons.  There  are  few  towns  of  any 
size.  Sabathu  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Hills,  and 
yet,  including  the  vicinity  of  eight  or  ten  miles,  it 
does  not  contain  more  than  twelve  thousand  people. 
Rampur,  on  the  Sutlej,  contains  about  one  thousand 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


215 


inhabitants.  It  is  the  place  where  the  chief  mela,  or 
fair,  in  the  Hills,  is  held.  On  that  occasion,  several 
days  are  devoted  to  buying  and  selling,  to  religious 
duties,  &c.  It  is  commonly  held  in  the  month  of 
October  or  November,  and  is  resorted  to  by  some 
thousands  of  natives  from  all  parts  of  the  Hill 
country. 

Usually,  the  Hill  people  dwell  in  small  villages 
and  hamlets  of  from  half  a dozen  houses  to  twenty 
or  thirty.  In  a single  valley,  or  rather  on  the  sides 
of  the  two  mountains  which  form  the  valley,  nume- 
rous clusters  of  houses  may  be  seen,  generally  sub- 
ject to  the  same  chief,  and  all  accessible  without 
much  difficulty,  after  a person  has  succeeded  in 
reaching  one  of  them.  I have  counted  between 
twenty-five  and  thirty  of  these  small  villages  at  one 
view,  thus  situated  on  the  sides  of  the  neighboring 
mountains ; and  a missionary  might  visit  all  on  one 
of  the  sides  in  the  course  of  a few  days,  spending 
several  hours  at  each,  to  make  known  the  Gospel, 
and  pitching  his  tent  at  night  at  a few  miles’  distance 
from  his  camp  in  the  morning.  The  valley  of  Jubal 
is  said  to  contain  not  less  than  fourteen  thousand 
people,  dwelling  thus  in  villages,  the  greater  part  of 
which  are  visible  at  one  view  from  some  high  peaks 
in  the  vicinity.  All  of  these  villages  might  probably 
be  visited  by  a missionary  in  a fortnight  or  three 
weeks.  If  a person  could  speak  the  language  with 
freedom,  and  possessed  the  patient,  devoted  spirit  of 
Neff,  he  could  not  desire  a finer  field  for  doing  good 
both  to  the  bodies  and  souls  of  his  fellow  men. 


216 


NOTES  ON  THE 


The  population  of-these  States  must  be  regarded 
as  very  great,  when  the  character  of  their  country 
is  considered.  Probably  not  more  than  one  third  of 
the  actual  surface  of  these  regions  admits  of  being 
cultivated.  The  proportion  may  be  larger  on  the 
lower  Hills ; but  it  is  much  smaller  on  the  higher. 

9.  The  Hill  people  are  nearly  all  employed  in 
cultivating  the  soil.  As  there  is  scarcely  any  level 
ground,  they  are  compelled  to  form  the  surface  of 
the  Hills  into  irregular  terraces.  These  are  usually 
very  small,  seldom  more  than  a few  rods  broad,  often 
only  a few  feet ; their  length  is  very  various.  They 
are  supported  by  low  walls  of  stones,  piled  up  without 
any  mortar  or  cement.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing 
among  the  lower  Hills  near  the  plains,  to  see  terraces 
of  this  kind  reaching  from  the  bottom  to  the  top. 
Often,  on  the  higher  Hills,  these  rude  terraces  extend 
as  far  up  as  the  nature  of  the  soil,  or  the  coldness  of 
the  climate,  admits  of  cultivation.  Rice  and  other 
productions  of  warm  climates,  may  be  seen  at  the 
bottom,  while  some  of  the  hardier  kinds  of  grain  are 
growing  at  the  top.  These  little  fields  on  the  moun- 
tain sides  look  very  beautiful  in  the  spring  months. 

The  implements  of  agriculture  in  common  use  are 
simple  and  rude ; but  the  plough  is  better  than  the 
one  used  in  the  plains,  and  the  harrow  is  not  worse. 
The  houses  of  these  people  are  comfortable  for  Hin- 
dus. They  are  much  more  substantial  than  those 
of  farmers  in  the  plains,  being  usually  built  chiefly  of 
small-sized  stones,  with  timbers,  six  or  eight  inches 
square,  placed  along  in  the  walls  at  distances  of 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


217 


two  or  three  feet  apart.  In  the  interior  of  the  Hills, 
the  houses  are  commonly  two  stories  in  height,  the 
upper  story  having  a porch,  partly  inclosed,  along 
the  entire  front  side,  from  which  a door  opens  into 
the  apartments  of  the  family.  The  lower  story  is 
merely  a stable  for  their  buffaloes  or  cows.  The 
roof  is  composed  of  flat  stones,  sometimes  of  slates, 
and  projects  so  far  on  the  front  side  as  to  afford  a 
cover  to  the  veranda  or  porch.  It  is  seldom  that 
these  houses  have  any  windows.  Chimneys  seem  to 
be  unknown  throughout  India,  in  native  houses,  the 
fire  being  kindled  and  kept  in  little  clay  fire-places, 
and  the  smoke  being  allowed  to  make  its  escape  as 
best  it  can.  Some  of  the  richer  farmers  among  the 
Hill  people  have  houses  so  large  and  well-built  that 
they  would  be  quite  respectable  even  in  America, 
having  verandas  on  all  sides,  and  being  constructed 
of  stones  and  timbers  which  have  been  carefully 
hewed  and  prepared.  A good  Pahari  house  for  the 
ordinary  class  of  inhabitants  will  cost  about  one 
hundred  rupees.  In  the  plains,  the  corresponding 
class  of  people  live  in  houses  of  clay,  which  cost 
twenty  or  thirty  rupees — ten  or  fifteen  dollars. 

10.  The  Temples,  or  places  of  religious  character, 
are  of  different  sizes  and  appearance.  Most  com- 
monly they  are  of  one  rather  low  story  in  height, 
constructed  of  the  same  materials  as  ordinary  houses, 
but  having  their  roofs  modelled  more  like  the  Chinese 
roofs,  or  of  a slightly  concave  form  from  the  cone  to 
the  eaves.  Often  these  temples  are  made  entirely  of 
wood.  Sometimes  a part  of  the  building  is  of  open 


218 


NOTES  ON  THE 


structure,  showing  at  one  view  all  the  idols  and  their 
ornaments.  In  other  instances,  there  is  no  opening 
of  any  kind,  except  one  small  door.  Some  of  the 
temples  are  more  lofty  than  these,  and  have  a veranda 
on  all  sides,  at  about  two  thirds  of  their  height,  which, 
as  it  is  often  inclosed,  gives  them  a singular  appear- 
ance. Some  few  consist  of  little  more  than  a plat- 
form of  stone,  and  four  posts,  or  rude  pillars,  which 
support  the  roof.  Some  have  a kind  of  low  circular 
tower,  rising  above  one  end. 

Their  sites  are  often  worthy  of  attention.  Some 
are  seen  at  a great  distance,  on  the  top  of  a moun- 
tain peak,  or  at  the  extremity  of  some  ridge,  standing 
solitary.  Others  break  suddenly  on  the  view  of  a 
traveller,  as  he  passes  through  the  forest,  standing  in 
its  most  dense  recesses,  and  surrounded  and  over- 
shadowed by  lofty  trees.  Near  the  villages,  they 
stand  generally  alone,  a space  being  reserved  between 
them  and  the  dwellings  of  the  people.  They  all  seem 
adapted  to  exert  a cheerless  influence  on  the  minds 
of  men,  an  influence  quite  in  accordance  with  the 
spirit  of  the  Hindu  system.  Yet  it  must  be  acknow- 
ledged that  their  situation  and  appearance  are  not 
destitute  of  impressiveness.  The  idols  in  these  tem- 
ples are  rude  sculptures  of  wood  and  stone,  and  are 
most  commonly  devoted  to  the  goddess  Kali,  though 
the  trident  of  Siva  is  sometimes  seen  over  their 
most  holy  place.  To  the  former  goats  are  frequently 
sacrificed.  Formerly,  it  appears  from  uncontradicted 
testimony,  human  victims  were  offered  at  her  bloody 
shrine.  There  is  a mountain  very  distinctly  seen 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


219 


from  Simla,  called  Shall,  on  whose  summits  in  for- 
mer days  there  was  a famous  temple  to  this  goddess. 
It  is  commonly  believed  that  human  beings  were 
killed  for  sacrifices  at  that  temple  ; but  no  instance 
has  occurred  since  1809.  Since  these  regions  have 
come  under  English  control,  this,  practice,  and  that 
of  infanticide,  in  a great  degree,  have  been  abolished. 
One  cannot  but  wonder  that  it  should  ever  have 
existed  among  a people  so  mild,  and  apparently  kind- 
hearted  as  these  Paharis  are.  But  the  depraved 
heart  of  man,  when  unchanged  and  unrestrained 
by  Divine  influence,  is  susceptible  of  entertaining 
and  of  perpetrating  any  evil,  however  heinous  in 
itself,  or  however  horrible  in  its  consequences. 

At  some  temples,  incense  is  offered  in  a rude 
earthen  censer.  In  ascending  a mountain  one  morn- 
ing, with  a Christian  friend,  we  were  much  struck  at 
seeing  this  ceremony  performed.  The  person  offi- 
ciating was  kneeling  a short  distance  from  the  idol. 
In  one  hand  he  held  a censer,  with  the  incense  burn- 
ing, which  he  waved  backwards  and  forwards,  while 
with  the  other  he  was  ringing  a little  bell.  I never 
saw  an  instance  of  the  kind  before ; and  my  com- 
panion said  it  was  equally  new  to  him,  although  he 
had  been  fourteen  years  in  various  parts  of  India. 

It  is  very  common,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
these  hill  temples,  to* see  a great  number  of  rags 
sticking  on  the  bushes  and  low  trees  around.  They 
are  of  every  color  and  texture,  and  are  usually  in 
the  shape  of  narrow  and  rather  long  strips.  They 
seem  to  have  been  torn  off  from  the  clothes  commonly 


220 


NOTES  ON  THE 


worn  by  the  people,  and  are  said  to  be  intended  as 
pledges  by  worshippers,  that  they  will  fulfil  their 
vows.  This  custom  seems  to  be  quite  peculiar  to 
these  hills  ; at  least  I have  not  heard  of  any  similar 
usage  elsewhere. 

11.  The  Religion  of  these  people,  as  may  be 
inferred  from  what  has  been  said  about  their  temples, 
is  exclusively  the  Hindu.  There  are  no  Mussul- 
mans, and  scarcely  any  Sikhs  among  them.  They 
seem  to  be  chiefly  of  one  caste  of  Hindus  ; or  per- 
haps it  would  be  more  correct  to  say,  that  they  do 
not  pay  much  regard  to  the  distinction  of  caste  ; so 
that  a person  does  not  see,  as  in  the  plains,  half  a 
dozen  fire-places  to  ^cook  the  dinners  of  half  a 
dozen  people.  There  are  but  few  brahmans  among 
them,  nearly  all  the  people  belonging  to  the  class 
whose  sole  duty,  according  to  Hindu  notions,  is  to 
cultivate  the  soil. 

12.  The  Language  seems  to  be  principally  Hindui. 
Of  the  very  few  that  I met  who  could  read,  all  read 
the  Hindui  in  the  Devnagari  character.  An  English 
gentleman  who  is  an  excellent  Hindustani  scholar, 
informed  me,  that  he  could  scarcely  make  himself 
understood  by  the  Paharis,  while  a friend  of  his,  who 
is  well  acquainted  with  the  Hindui,  got  along  much 
better  in  his  intercourse  with  them.  Yet  their  mode 
of  pronunciation  is  so  very  singular,  that  few  Euro- 
peans can  understand  them.  There  are  but  few 
books  of  any  description  among  them  ; and  probably 
not  one  in  every  thousand  is  able  to  read  and  write. 
No  school  of  any  sort  is  found  among  them ; except- 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


221 


ing  one  or  two  established  and  entirely  supported  by 
English  people.  There  are  generally  a few  persons, 
however,  in  each  small  state,  who  are  able  to  read, 
and  to  keep  the  few  records  in  writing  that  the 
administration  of  their  affairs  requires  to  be  thus 
preserved.  I have  been  told  that  there  are  three  or 
four  different  alphabets  used  in  different  places. 

13.  In  the  manners  of  the  Hill  people  there  is  a frank 
and  independent  bearing,  which  is  much  more  pleas- 
ing than  the  sycophancy  and  servility  towards  supe- 
riors so  common  throughout  India.  They  seem  to 
be  very  ingenuous.  They  might  be  characterized 
as  a simple-minded  people,  who  are  little  encumbered 
with  artificial  distinctions  of  wealth  and  rank.  Their 
chiefs  have  commonly  but  little  power ; their  sub- 
jects, territories,  and  resources  being  all,  for  the 
most  part,  very  limited.  Hence,  there  is  among 
them  the  absence  both  of  the  polish  of  address,  and 
of  the  specious  but  deceitful  ingenuity  of  mind, 
which  are  found  among  the  subjects  of  more  powerful 
and  wealthy  native  rulers.  This  absence  of  artifi- 
cial usages  may  be  partly  owing,  also,  to  the  fact, 
that  there  are  few  persons  among  them  of  overgrown 
wealth.  On  the  other  hand,  there  are  but  few 
among  these  Paharis  who  are  absolutely  poor,  or 
compelled  to  beg  for  their  subsistence,  the  people 
being  commonly  in  moderate  but  comfortable  cir- 
cumstances. In  their  personal  habits  and  dress  they 
are  offensively  dirty.  When  an  article  of  clothing 
is  put  on,  it  seems  to  be  allowed  to  stay  on  until  it 
wears  off.  The  girls  are  betrothed  at  an  early  age, 


222 


NOTES  ON  THE 


and  their  hair,  it  is  said,  is  then  plaited,  and  remains 
undressed  (it  is  further  added)  ever  afterwards. 

As  to  morals,  they  evince  a much  greater  regard 
for  truth  and  uprightness  in  dealing,  than  is  shown 
by  the  people  of  the  Plains.  Much  greater  con- 
fidence can  be  reposed  in  their  word,  and  in  their 
honesty.  But  they  are  spoken  of  as  greatly  addicted 
to  licentiousness;  though  the  female  sex  does  not 
appear  to  be  so  degraded  as  in  the  Plains.  They 
are  not  so  much  secluded,  which  is  some  proof  of 
their  being  held  in  higher  estimation  and  of  their 
enjoying  greater  respect.  In  one  or  two  sections  of 
the  Hills,  it  is  said  that  polyandry  is  common.  A 
Christian  friend  informed  me,  that  he  had  seen  one 
family,  where  there  were  only  two  women.  One 
was  the  aged  mother,  the  other  was  the  wife  of  ten 
men. 

In  their  disposition  or  temper  there  seems  to  be  a 
great  deal  of  kindness  of  feeling,  prompting  them  to 
take  an  interest  in  the  sufferings  of  others,  and  to 
render  assistance  to  those  who  are  in  want.  These 
Hill  people  seem  to  be  patient,  contented,  easily 
satisfied,  and  greatly  attached,  as  all  mountain  tribes 
are,  to  their  own  country.  A missionary  who  would 
go  among  them  in  a kind  and  quiet  manner, 
endeavor  to  promote  their  temporal  comfort,  as 
well  as  their  spiritual  welfare,  and  exemplify  before 
them  the  peaceful  and  pure  spirit  of  the  gospel, 
might  hope,  if  favored  with  the  Divine  blessing,  to 
secure  their  warm  affection  for  himself  personally, 
and  to  see  many  of  them  embracing  the  gospel  of 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


223 


the  grace  of  God.  His  success  would  be  greater  and 
more  immediate,  probably,  than  .he  could  meet  with 
elsewhere  in  India.  There  are  no  difficulties  or 
obstacles  to  hinder  immediate  Christian  effort  for  the 
conversion  of  this  people,  except  such  difficulties  as 
will  continue  until  the  gospel  itself  removes  them  by 
its  holy  influence.  Under  the  existing  authorities  of 
the  country,  and  among  so  peaceful  a people,  every 
judicious  and  prudent  missionary  would  enjoy  pro- 
tection ; while  the  climate  and  its  inconveniences 
will  ever  remain,  of  course,  in  a great  degree 
unchanged.  It  has  been  already  remarked  that  the 
climate  and  the  country  are  undoubtedly  more  favor- 
able to  the  health  of  Europeans  and  Americans  than 
the  greater  part  of  India  and  of  south-eastern  Asia. 

Th'e  first  establishment  of  a mission  family  might 
be  made  at  Sabathu,  which  is  convenient  to  the 
Plains,  has  the  advantage  of  a resident  medical  offi- 
cer, and  of  post  office  communications,  &c.  At  that 
place  a comfortable  house  could  be  either  purchased 
or  rented,  at  a low  rate.  It  would  admit  of  conve- 
nient intercourse  with  the  mission  station  at  Lodiana, 
from  which  the  books  and  tracts  requisite  for  the 
prosecution  of  missionary  labors  might  be  easily 
obtained ; and  it  would  afford  a comfortable  retreat 
for  the  missionaries  from  the  Plains,  when  their 
health  might  become  impaired.  The  distance  be- 
tween Lodiana  and  Sabathu  is  about  one  hundred 
miles. 

In  regard  to  the  mountainous  and  isolated  valley 

11 


224 


NOTES  ON  THE 


of  Kanaur,  referred  to  in  the  first  paragraph  of  the 
foregoing  notes,  the  following  memoranda  will  be 
considered  valuable  by  the  reader ; they  were  taken 
from  a work,  then  printed  but  not  published,  which 
has  been  lately  reprinted  and  published  in  London. 
Captain  Gerard,  from  whose  book  these  notices  were 
compiled  by  permission,  had  made  several  tours  to 
the  valley,  and  had  spent  some  time  in  it. 

Kunaur  (Koonawur),  a part  of  the  protected  Hill 
states,  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Sutlej  river,  from 
Lat.  31°  15'  to  32°  4',  and  from  Long.  77°  50'  to 
78°  50'.  It  runs  from  north-east  to  south-west,  the 
habitable  part  seldom  exceeding  eight  miles  in 
breadth.  It  is  secluded,  rugged,  mountainous,  and 
almost  entirely  surrounded  by  mountains  covered 
with  snow.  On  the  east  it  is  separated  from  Chinese 
Tartary  by  a lofty  ridge,  through  which  are  several 
passes  at  high  elevations. 

Population. — There  are  seven  large  divisions,  sub- 
divided into  twenty  smaller,  containing  altogether 
rather  less  than  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Rampur, 
the  chief  town  of  Basehar,  the  state  or  chiefdom  of 
which  Kunaur  forms  a part,  contains  one  hundred 
and  ten  families.  In  Kunaur,  Marang  contains 
eighty-seven  families,  and  Ridang,  seventy-five. 
These  are  among  the  most  populous  places  in  Basehar. 
The  villages  are  situated  from  seven  to  twelve  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea. 

Climate. — This  depends  upon  the  elevation  and 
the  location  of  the  particular  place.  Rampur  is 
so  hot,  during  a good  part  of  the  year,  as  to  be 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


225 


almost  uninhabitable  by  Europeans.  Other  places 
are  so  cold,  as  to  be  uninhabitable  by  any  human 
beings.  Between  these  extremes  there  is  a great 
variety  of  temperature. 

Valleys. — The  valleys  of  the  Sutlej,  of  the  Baspa, 
of  the  Pabar,  and  of  one  or  two  other  small  streams, 
are  the  only  parts  which  admit  of  much  cultivation. 
Arable  spaces  occasionally  are  met,  varying  from  one 
hundred  yards  to  half  a mile  in  width. 

Rivers. — The  Sutlej  is  more  like  a torrent  than 
a large  river,  descending  sometimes  one  hundred  or 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  per  mile.  The  water  looks 
turbid,  from  the  particles  of  sand,  or  of  the  rocks, 
worn  off  by  attrition,  which  are  held  suspended  in 
the  stream.  It  runs  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles 
in  the  snowy  mountains,  one  hundred  more  in  the 
hills,  or  lower  range  of  mountains,  and  one  hundred 
and  thirty  more  in  the  plains,  to  its  junction  with 
the  Bias.  Its  breadth  varies  greatly ; its  depth  in 
the  hills  can  seldom  be  ascertained,  owing  to  the 
rapidity  of  the  current,  which  is  often  fearfully  great. 

The  Sutlej  receives  several  mountain  streams  as 
tributaries,  of  which  the  chief  is  the  Spiti,  which  is 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  in  length.  The  others 
vary  in  length  from  ten  to  forty-five  miles.  They 
are  all  much  swollen  by  the  rains,  and  by  the  melt- 
ing of  the  snow.  These  rivers  and  steams  are  pass- 
ed by  sangos,  or  wooden  bridges,  by  j hulas,  or  rope 
bridges,  and  by  sagams,  or  twig  bridges.  The  second 
is  made  of  several  cables  stretched  from  bank  to 
bank,  from  which  a noose  is  suspended  ; in  this  the 


226 


NOTES  ON  THE 


passenger  places  himself,  and  he  is  then  drawn  over 
by  cords  attached  to  the  noose.  The  third  kind  of 
bridge  is  formed  of  twigs  twisted,  ropes,  &c. 

Passes. — There  are  various  passes,  over  which 
travellers  cross  the  mountains.  Of  these,  six  lead 
to  Chinese  Tartary,  and  several  into  Thibet. 

Productions,  &c. — Barley,  buckwheat,  and  wheat 
are  common.  The  potatoe  has  been  introduced,  and 
grows  well.  Among  the  trees  are  six  kinds  of  pine, 
oak,  birch,  maple.  Wild  fruits  are  abundant,  as 
black  and  red  currants,  gooseberries,  strawberries, 
neoza,#  pears,  apricots,  &c.  Many  varieties  of 
grapes  flourish  very  well  in  good  situations.  Eight- 
een kinds  are  mentioned,  which  seems  an  incredibly 
large  number.  They  sell  at  sixty  or  seventy  pounds 
to  the  rupee.  Apples  are  but  indifferent— could  they 
not  be  improved  by  grafting  ? Peaches  do  not  ripen 
well. 

The  animals  are  cows,  sheep,  goats, _ asses,  small 
horses,  dogs,  &c.  There  are  a few  wild  bears,  and 
a species  of  tiger-cat,'  or  panther.  Among  the 
birds  are  pheasants,  hawks,  eagles,  crows,  pigeons, 
&c.  Fish  are  not  abundant.  There  are  snakes, 
frogs,  flies,  fleas,  &c.  The  common  bee  is  every- 
where met  with,  and  there  is  plenty  of  fine  honey, 
particularly  in  the  autumn. 

The  people  are  dark  complexioned  and  muscular. 
Their  stature  is  from  five  feet  four  inches  to  five  feet 


* The  neoza  is  a small,  rather  long,  partly  conical  fruit,  tasting  not 
unlike  the  filbert  or  hazel  nut,  and  produced  by  a species  of  the  pine. 


PROTECTED  HILL  STATES. 


227 


nine.  They  are  frank,  active,  hospitable,  and  highly 
honorable,  reverencing  the  truth,  &c. 

Their  religion  is  Hinduism,  but  with  less  regard 
for  the  subdivisions  of  caste  than  the  people  of  the 
plains  evince.  They  erect  temples  to  the  Devtas, 
or  gods,  in  their  villages,  and  piles  of  stones  on  the 
summits  of  the  hills.  Kali  is  chiefly  worshipped. 
Human  sacrifices  were  offered  before  the  British 
became  rulers  ; and  female  infanticide  was  common. 
Their  language  is  a dialect  of  the  Hindui.  Few 
persons  can  read  or  write.  The  dialect  called  Mil- 
chan  is  said  to  be  the  most  common. 

Diseases  are  few,  as  the  climate  is  salubrious  and 
bracing.  As  there  are  no  periodical  rains  in  Kunaur, 
there  are  few  vapors  or  mists.  The  swelled  throat, 
or  goitre,  is  frequently  met  with  ; but  it  is  not  sup- 
posed to  be  owing  to  their  drinking  snow  water, 
because  many  who  drink  nothing  else  for  months  are 
not  troubled  with  it. 


228 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 

Meeting  with  Messrs.  Wilson  and  Newton — English  school  at  Lodi- 
ana — Mission  station  at  Sabathu — Other  fields  of  labor — Station  at 
Lodiana — Leave  Lodiana — Meeting  at  Calcutta  with  the  third 
company  of  Missionaries — Reach  New  York. 

Leaving  Simla  about  the  17th  of  November,  I 
proceeded  to  join  my  missionary  friends,  the  Wilsons 
and  Newtons,  now  on  the  land  part  of  their  journey 
to  Lodiana,  and  on  the  23d  of  that  month  we  had 
the  high  gratification  of  meeting  at  a small  native 
village  about  thirty  miles  north-west  of  Delhi.  Years 
had  passed  since  we  were  students  together  at  the 
Alleghany  Seminary,  and  in  this  period  changes  of 
the  deepest  interest  had  taken  place  ; the  broad  ocean 
had  been  crossed,  the  hand  of  death  had  taken  away 
more  than  one  whom  we  all  loved,  and  who  had 
expected  to  be  present  at  this  meeting  ; and  we  were 
now  truly  strangers  in  a strange  country.  How 
thankful  and  joyful  that  we  were  again  together ! 
With  the  warmest  gratitude  did  we  at  once  unite  in 
offering  fervent  praise  to  God,  “ for  all  the  way  by 
which  he  had  led  us  along.”  Our  meeting  was  a 
time  of  the  most  tender  and  refreshing  communion, 
such  as  language  can  but  feebly  describe. 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


229 


After  reaching  Lodiana,  we  had  the  satisfaction 
of  spending  about  six  weeks  together.  During  this 
time  the  history  of  our  mission  in  all  its  details  was 
brought  under  review,  and  its  prospects  carefully 
examined.  Various  plans  of  usefulness  were  con- 
sidered, and  our  united  and  fervent  prayers  were 
often  made  that  the  blessing  of  the  great  Head  of 
the  Church  might  attend  our  feeble  undertakings. 
On  a review  of  all  our  affairs,  we  could  not  but 
“ thank  God,  and  take  courage.”  I may  here  insert 
some  extracts  from  a letter,  written  a month  or  two 
afterwards,  but  referring  to  the  state  of  things  in 
January,  1836. 

“ The  English  school  was  first  established  under 
the  auspices  and  generous  support  of  Captain  C.  M. 
Wade,  the  Political  Agent  at  Lodiana ; and,  for 
some  months  before  I reached  that  place  in  Novem- 
ber, 1834,  it  was  taught  by  Shahamat  Ali,  a young 
man  of  considerable  promise,  who  had  acquired 
some  knowledge  of  our  language  at  the  government 
college,  or  school,  at  Delhi. 

“ One  of  the  fii’st  subjects  that  required  our  con- 
sideration after  we  arrived  at  Lodiana  was  that  of 
our  connexion  with  this  school.  Captain  Wade  was 
its  founder,  and  it  has  always  been  chiefly  owing  to 
his  deep  interest  in  its  success,  and  to  his  generous 
patronage,  that  it  has  thus  far  prospered  so  well. 
He  wished,  however,  to  sustain  towards  it  a some- 
what different,  though  not  less  friendly  relationship. 
And  between  his  making  an  arrangement  that  would 
have  placed  it  out  of  our  hands,  and  making  it  over 


230 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


entirely  to  us,  we,  of  course,  could  not  feel  as  indif- 
ferent spectators ; especially  as  the  other  arrange- 
ment would  have  involved  the  giving  up  of  all  reli- 
gious books  and  instructions  in  the  school.  After 
free  and  repeated  conversations  with  Captain  Wade 
on  the  subject,  marked  on  his  part  by  a most  kind,  con- 
siderate, and  liberal  disposition,  it  seemed  best  that  the 
school  should  be  altogether  made  over  to  our  mission. 
Captain  Wade  will,  however,  continue  to  mani- 
fest an  entirely  cordial  interest  in  its  welfare,  and  is 
still  the  patron  of  the  school.  It  now  contains  about 
forty-five  boys  and  young  men.  This  number  is  as 
large  as  could  be  expected,  when  it  is  considered 
that  but  few,  if  any,  of  the  natives  of  this  country 
are  yet  influenced  by  a desire  of  knowledge  from 
disinterested  motives  ; and  that  the  number  of  situa- 
tions is  but  limited  in  which  a knowledge  of  our  lan- 
guage would  be  advantageous  in  a pecuniary  point 
of  view.  Indeed,  it  may  be  said  of  most  places 
remote  from  Calcutta,  that  the  most  weighty  motive 
to  the  mind  of  a Hindu  for  seeking  a knowledge  of 
our  language  is  the  hope  of  pleasing  his  European 
superiors,  and  of  deriving  some  sort  of  advantage 
from  their  favor.  This  is  a good  deal  the  case  at 
Lodiana  ; though  I am  glad  to  think  that  some  of  the 
boys  are  influenced  by  higher  and  better  motives. 
But,  whatever  may  be  the  character  of  the  motives 
which  influence  any  of  the  natives  in  their  efforts  to 
become  acquainted  with  our  language,  it  matters 
little  to  us  as  to  our  duty.  To  us  it  is  simply  a 
question  between  endeavoring  to  avail  ourselves  of 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


281 


their  wish  to  know  our  language  by  consenting  to 
teach  them,  and  watching  opportunities  to  make 
them  acquainted  with  useful  and  Christian  know- 
ledge, and  neglecting  to  do  so.  If  we  choose  the 
latter  plan,  we  lose  many  and  precious  opportunities, 
direct  and  indirect,  of  exerting  a useful  influence,  of 
communicating  important  knowledge,  of  correcting 
evil  habits,  of  witnessing  a Christian  example  ; and 
we  permit  a most  interesting  class  of  the  community 
to  acquire  that  knowledge  of  our  language  which 
will  make  them  by  far  the  most  influential  men  of 
their  generation,  without  any,  or  with  but  an  imperfect 
acquaintance  with  the  truths  of  our  religion.  The 
desire  to  know  our  language  is  awakened  in  their 
minds  ; it  will  be  gratified ; those  who  learn  our 
books  will  be  looked  up  to  by  all  the  people ; they 
will  occupy  many  places  of  important  influence 
among  their  countrymen ; but  whether  they  will 
exert  an  influence  favorable  to  Christianity,  or  not, 
is  a different  and  most  important  matter.  Mere  ge- 
neral knowledge  will  never  make  them  sincere  Chris- 
tians; though  it  may,  and  most  probably  will  make 
them  infidels  as  to  the  religious  systems  of  their 
fathers.  We  have  yet  to  learn  whether  infidelity  in 
India  is  any  better  than  infidelity  in  America  or 
Europe.* 

* This  English  school  has  not  ceased  to  be  an  object  of  prominent 
interest.  A new  and  more  eligible  building  has  been  erected  for  its 
use  ; the  number  of  pupils  has  been  doubled.  Though  subject  to  con- 
siderable changes,  partly  from  the  parents’  early  withdrawing  their 
sons  to  occupy  stations  of  business,  thereby  greatly  hindering  the  use- 

II* 


232 


LODIANA  tO  NEW  YORK.. 


“ Another  subject  that  has  received  a good  many 
of  our  thoughts,  is  the  distribution  of  our  number ; 
having  a reference  as  well  to  those  who  are  to  come 
as  to  those  now  here.  Lodiana  seems  to  need  the 
services  of  two  missionaries,  one  printer,  and  one 
schoolmaster.  Ambala,  about  seventy  miles  to  the 
south-east,  is  as  large  a town,  or  perhaps  larger ; 
but,  at  present,  it  does  not  appear  to  be  advisable  to 
attempt  forming  a branch  of  our  mission  there. 
Ferozpur,  about  seventy  miles  down  the  Sutlej  from 
Lodiana,  is  a place  of  ten  or  twelve  thousand  inha- 
bitants, and  of  great  prospective  inportance.  It  is 
not  quite  prepared,  probably,  for  becoming  the  sta- 
tion of  a mission  family.  Sabathu,  one  hundred 
miles  from  Lodiana,  in  the  Protected  Hill  States,  is 
a very  good  place  at  which  to  nave  one  missionary 
and  one  schoolmaster  stationed.  These  are  the 
places  now  under  direct  British  control.  There  are 
many  large  towns  belonging  to  native  Chiefs,  on 
both  sides  of  the  Sutlej,  within  one  hundred  miles, 
and  many  within  fifty  miles  of  Lodiana.  Within 
the  latter  distance  is  Patiala,  said  to  contain  sixty  or 
seventy  thousand  inhabitants,  southward  from  Lodi- 
ana; Sirhind,  containing  probably  fifteen  thousand, 
eastward,  or  south-eastward,  from  Lodiana,  on  the 
road  to  Ambala;  Jalandar,  forty  thousand,  thirty 

fulness  of  the  school ; yet  it  cannot  be  doubted  that  a good  influence 
has  been  already  exerted  through  its  agency.  Its  position  in  reference 
to  surrounding  countries,  and  the  different  languages  spoken  by  its 
pupils,  will  make  this  school  the  means,  with  the  blessing  of  God,  of 
diffusing  far  and  near  the  knowledge  of  the  way  of  life. 


EODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


233 


'miles ; and  Paghwarah,  fifteen  thousand,  twenty 
miles.  Both  of  these  are  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Sutlej,  on  the  road  to  Amritsir  and  Lahor.  Besides 
these  large  towns,  there  are  a good  many  of  some 
thousands,  and  a great  many  of  some  hundreds  of 
inhabitants.  But  in  regard  to  towns  which  are 
entirely  under  native  rule,  it  may  be  regarded  in  ge- 
neral as  scarcely  advisable  for  a mission  family  to 
settle  at  them,  before  a knowledge  of  the  language  is 
attained  ; and  perhaps  even  then  it  will  be  better  to 
occupy  first  those  large  towns  and  important  places 
which  are  under  British  rule  exclusively.  There 
will  be  less  probability  of  meeting  with  any  inter- 
ruption in  one’s  labors.  It  is  quite  practicable  to 
visit  towns  under  native  rule;  and  perhaps  circum- 
stances might  occur  which  would  make  it  appear 
advisable  to  reside  at  them.  This  would  be  the  case, 
were  any  of  their  rulers  to  become  Christians.  But, 
at  present,  it  might  be  attended  with  uncertainty  as 
to  being  free  from  trouble,  or  rather,  as  to  obtaining 
the  consent  of  the  Chiefs.  At  any  rate,  it  would  be 
attended  with  much  delay  in  regard  to  getting  suita- 
ble houses  prepared,  so  that  it  does  not  seem  expedi- 
ent that  any  of  our  brethren  should  attempt  at  once 
to  take  up  a permanent  residence  at  a native  town. 

“ Besides,  great  changes  may  be  anticipated,  and 
perhaps  troublesome  times,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Sutlej ; for  the  health  of  the  chief  ruler,  Ranjit 
Singh,  is  in  a very  precarious  condition.  Though  he 
may  live  for  years,  yet  he  might  die  any  night.  It 
seems  hardly  proper  to  think  of  forming  any  station 


234 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK, 


on  that  side  of  the  Sutlej  until  there  is  a better  pros-1 
pect  of  quietness  and  of  a settled  government. 

“ We  came  very  satisfactorily  to  the  conclusion, 
that  we  should  commence  a mission  in  the  Hill 
States  as  soon  as  practicable.  We  have  felt  ourselves 
justifiable  in  making  preparation  for  a mission  family 
to  reside  there,  and  have  purchased  a stone  house 
at  Sabathu  for  that  purpose.  This  we  thought  it 
was  expedient  to  do,  because  while  it  was  offered 
at  a low  price,  the  opportunity  might  be  lost,  if 
neglected. 

“You  will  perceive  that  Lodiana  and  Sabathu  do 
not  afford  sufficient  work  to  employ  all  our  brethren 
permanently.  Shall  they  all  go  to  those  places  until 
they  learn  the  language,  and  then  go  wherever  Provi* 
den'ce  directs  ? Or  would  it  be  advisable  for  some  of 
them  to  stay  at  Furrukhabad,  or  at  some  other  place 
in  the  Doab,  or  level  country,  between  the  Ganges 
and  the  Jumna  ? The  latter  is  a region  of  country 
teeming  with  large  towns  and  multitudes  of  people, 
for  whose  souls  no  man  seems  to  care.  It  affords  a 
greater  prospect  of  concentrated  exertions  than  do 
the  regions  to  the  northwest.  It  is  entirely  under 
British  rule.  It  is  easy  of  access  by  water  from 
Calcutta,  and  would  afford  a ‘ half-way  house’  to  the 
missionary  brethren  going  on  to  the  northwest.  We 
want  some  missionary  families  in  Calcutta,  where 
our  missionaries  would  land  at  first ; who  would  find 
as  much  work  to  do  as  they  could  accomplish ; who 
would  meet  with  a most  cordial  reception  from  all  the 
Calcutta  brethren  ; and  who  could  relieve  those  bre- 


IodiaNa  to  New  york. 


335 


thren  from  commissions  and  cares  which  even  now 
must  be  troublesome,  though  they  are  too  kind  to 
admit  that  they  are  so,  but  which,  in  future  times, 
will  be  too  numerous  for  them  to  think  of  attending 
to,  when  we  have  some  fifty  or  a hundred  missionaries 
in  the  upper  regions  of  India.  And  then  we  want 
many  American  missionaries  throughout  Upper 
India;  of  whom  some  could  be  stationed  at  Furruk- 
habad.  There  is  a large  unoccupied  field  in  the  Doab. 
Would  it  be  desirable  for  two  of  our  brethren  to  stay 
somewhere  in  it  ? If  it  is  not  so  for  them,  I trust 
you  will  soon  be  able  to  send  others  to  take  posses- 
sion of  that  fertile  and  populous  country. 

“ If  they  should  go  on  to  Lodiana,  they,  or  future 
missionaries,  might  prepare  themselves  for  going 
either  to  Cashmere  or  to  Afghanistan,  by  learning 
the  language  of  those  countries  from  the  natives,  of 
whom  there  are  many  at  Lodiana, 

“During  the  spring  of  1834,  through  the  kind 
attention  of  Captain  Wade,  a portion  of  land  was 
allotted  to  our  mission,  which  is  in  many  respects 
very  eligible,  being  about  a quarter  of  a mile  east  of 
the  city,  and  containing  a tract  of  rather  low  ground, 
suitable  for  a garden  ; as  well  as  some  high  ground, 
suitable,  and  sufficiently  large,  for  two  or  three 
houses.  You  would  have  thought  the  higher  point 
of  it  a dreary,  barren  spot,  if  you  could  have  seen  it 
three  or  four  months  ago.  It  was  just  like  the 
sandy -looking  plains  ea3t  and  south  of  it.  Yet  it  has 
always  been  cultivated ; and  we  may  hope  that  it 
will  hereafter  possess  a peculiar  interest,  as  the  seat 


236 


Lodiana  To  NEW  YORK. 


of  extensive  moi’al  influence,  and  as  the  home  of  two 
or  three  families  of  the  Lord’s  beloved  people.  It  is 
intended  that  Lodiana  shall  become  a walled  town, 
and  measures  are  in  progress  which  seem  to  promise 
that  the  native  city  shall  extend  eastward  quite  to 
our  ground.  According  to  the  plan  of  the  city,  a 
single  street  separates  our  little  tract  from  the  wall  of 
the  great  city  that  is  to  be.” 

The  time  had  now  come  when  I should  direct  my 
Way  homewards.  After  obtaining  the  best  medical 
advice,  and  after  much  and  anxious  consideration, 
and  many  conferences  with  my  missionary  com- 
panions, it  was  agreed  by  us  all  that  a return  to  the 
United  States  was  decidedly  advisable,  as  the  only 
means  of  recovering  from  the  combined  influence  of 
the  climate  and  of  chronic  disease.  Deeply  as  I 
regretted  to  leave  a post  of  so  much  importance,  and 
a mission  whose  brief  history  had  been  so  fraught 
with  deeply  painful,  but  also  with  most  encouraging 
interest,  and  sorrowful  as  we  all  were  at  the  neces- 
sity of  parting,  the  path  of  duty  appeared  plain,  and 
we  acquiesced  in  what  we  believed  to  be  the  will  of 
God.  For  myself,  I consented  the  more  readily  to 
the  measure,  as  I hoped  to  be  so  much  benefited  by 
the  voyage,  and  by  spending  a year  or  two  in  a colder 
climate,  as  to  return  to  the  sphere  of  duty  I was  now 
about  to  leave— a hope  I have  since  been  constrained 
to  abandon. 

Arrangements  were  soon  made  for  a journey  to 
Calcutta  by  dak,  and  on  the  21st  of  January,  I bade 


LoblANA  TO  NEW  YORK. 


23 ? 


farewell  to  many  kind  English  friends  at  Lodiana,  to 
the  scholars  of  the  High  School,  and  to  my  mis- 
sionary brethren  ; we  commended  each  other  to  God, 
and  to  the  word  of  his  grace,  and  then  parted,  they 
to  pursue  their  missionary  labors,  and  I to  make 
another  long  and  solitary  journey.  I reached  Cal- 
cutta on  the  11th  of  February,  after  four  or  five 
days’  delay  on  the  road. 

I was  anxious  to  proceed  on  the  voyage  without 
delay,  as  the  hot  season  was  now  drawing  nigh  ; but 
1 met  with  unexpected  and  trying  disappointments 
about  getting  a passage  directly  to  the  United  States, 
and  was  at  length  obliged  to  decide  on  returning  by 
way  of  England.  This  delay,  however,  proved  the 
means  of  my  having  a glad  meeting  with  the  third 
company  of  missionaries  from  the  Society,  who 
arrived  on  the  2d  of  April,  in  the  Charles  Wharton, 
from  Philadelphia,  after  a safe  and  pleasant  voyage. 
This  party  consisted  of  the  Iiev.  Messrs.  J.  R. 
Campbell  and  J.  McEwen,  and  Messrs.  J.  M.  Jamie- 
son, W.  S.  Rogers,  and  J.  Porter,  with  their  wives. 
The  three  last  mentioned  gentlemen  had  completed 
their  studies  at  college,  and  they  have  since  been 
ordained  as  ministers  of  the  gospel.  We  all  regarded 
it  as  a favorable  ordering  of  Providence,  that  I should 
have  been  delayed  until  they  arrived.  I was  able  to 
be  of  use  to  them  in  making  their  arrangements  for 
proceeding  up  the  country  ; and  it  was  highly  grati- 
fying to  see  so  many  chosen  men  and  women  thus 
far  on  their  way  to  a scene  of  labor,  where,  two 
years  before,  everything  appeared  so  discouraging. 


238 


LODIANA  TO  NEW  YORK, 


I left  India  with  a lighter  heart,  after  spending  a few 
days  with  these  missionary  friends. 

Of  the  voyage  to  England,  and  thence  to  New 
York,  I need  not  give  an  extended  account.  Both 
were  unusually  long  and  severe,  but  we  were  favored 
with  all  necessary  comfort.  After  stopping  a week 
at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  our  ship  arrived  at  Lon- 
don about  the  end  of  September,  and  embarking  at 
Portsmouth  early  in  November,  I had  the  great  satis- 
faction, on  the  28th  of  December,  of  stepping  on  the 
shore  of  my  native  country,  all  the  more  beloved  as 
I had  seen  the  more  of  foreign  lands. 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


239 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 

Summary  statement. — Station  at  Lahor. — Synod  of  North  India. 

With  the  last  chapter,  my  book  might  end  ; but  as 
I venture  to  hope  that  this  mission  will  be  regarded 
with  interest  by  the  reader,  I shall  add  some  account 
of  its  present  condition.  A full  narrative  of  its  sub- 
sequent history  would  occupy  a volume ; which,  if 
Providence  favors  the  design,  I may  hereafter  endea- 
vor to  write,  in  compliance  with  the  wishes  of 
friends  often  expressed.  The  information  presented 
in  this  chapter  will  answer  the  end  of  showing  that 
the  good  hand  of  God  has  been  upon  this  missionary 
enterprise. 

There  are  now  ten  stations  in  Upper  India,  occu- 
pied by  about  sixty  American  and  Hindu  laborers, 
under  the  patronage  of  the  Presbyterian  Church. 
Of  these  laborers,  twenty -four  are  ordained  ministers 
of  the  Gospel,  two  of  whom  are  of  native  birth ; the 
others  are  the  wives  of  the  missionaries,  and  twenty 
native  catechists,  teachers,  and  readers,  not  includ- 
ing teachers  who  are  not  converts,  of  whom  a con- 
siderable number  are  employed  in  the  schools. 
Churches  have  been  organized  at  most  of  the  sta- 


240 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


tions,  with  which  about  two  hundred  natives  are 
connected  as  communicants.  An  extensive  system 
of  schools  is  in  operation,  embracing  about  twelve 
hundred  children  and  youths,  who  are  receiving  the 
benefits  of  education  under  a happy  Christian  influ- 
ence. 

The  Press  is  doing  its  great  work  in  the  hands  of 
the  missionaries,  there  being  two  printing  and  bind- 
ing establishments,  at  which  the  Sacred  Scriptures 
and  Christian  Books  are  printed.  Nearly  ninety 
millions  of  pages  have  been  printed  and  circulated 
since  these  presses  were  set  up ; embracing  works 
varying  in  size  from  four  pages  to  upwards  of  six 
hundred  pages,  in  the  Hindu!,  Hindustani,  Gurmukhi, 
Persian,  and  English  languages.  This  department 
of  the  missionary  work  is  under  efficient  manage- 
ment, and  its  influence  is  becoming  increasingly 
important. 

The  stations  are  classed  under  three  Missions, 
which  take  their  names  from  prominent  cities  within 
their  bounds.  Each  of  these  missions  is  distinct 
from  the  others,  and  they  make  their  reports  directly 
to  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  whose  seat  of 
operations  is  in  New  York. 

The  Lodiana  Mission  has  stations  at  Lodiana, 
Saharunpur,  Sabathu,  Ambala,  Jalandar,  and  Lahor. 
Sabathu  is  a town  in  the  Himmalaya  mountains, 
and  is  noticed  above  on  page  232.  Two  of  the  sta- 
tions are  in  the  Panjab,  at  Jalandar  and  Lahoi',  places 
mentioned  in  the  preceding  narrative.  The  station 
at  Lahor  is  one  of  so  much  interest  as  to  deserve  a 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


241 


somewhat  extended  notice.  This  I take  from  the 
“Annual  Report  of  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions 
to  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Presbyterian  Church, 
May,  1850 

“ One  of  the  most  important  events  in  the  history 
of  this  mission  during  the  past  year,  is  the  occupa- 
tion of  Lahor,  the  capital  of  the  Panjab,  as  a 
missionary  station.  By  the  appointment  of  their 
brethren,  the  Rev.  Messrs  Newton  and  Forman 
took  up  their  abode  at  that  city  in  November. 

“Nearly  seventeen  years  ago,  the  first  mission- 
aries of  the  Presbyterian  Church  in  India  were  led, 
under  the  manifest  guidance  of  Providence,  to  select 
the  north-western  provinces  of  that  country  as  their 
general  field  of  labor.  Their  choice  had  a special 
reference  to  the  Panjab,  then  an  independent  king- 
dom, and  to  the  Sikhs,  a distinct  people  in  their 
religion,  though  in  other  respects  not  differing  greatly 
from  their  Hindu  countrymen.  The  missionaries 
formed  their  first  station  at  Lodiana,  on  the  British 
side  of  the  Sutlej,  the  south-eastern  boundary  of  that 
kingdom.  One  of  their  number  was  permitted  to 
go  over,  and  to  spy  out  the  country,  penetrating  as 
far  as  Lahor,  where  its  famous  but  despotic  ruler, 
Ranjtt  Singh,  held  his  court.  He  brought  back  a 
good  report  of  many  things,  but  the  time  did  not 
appear  to  have  come  for  attempting  to  form  a per- 
manent missionary  establishment,  nor  even  for  mak- 
ing flying  missionary  tours,  among  the  four  millions 
of  its  inhabitants. 

“ At  Lodiana,  every  facility  was  enjoyed  by  the 


242 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


missionaries  for  making  all  needful  preparation  to  go 
up  and  take  possession  of  the  land,  whenever  the 
leader  of  Israel  should  call  them  to  cross  over  the 
dividing  river.  There  the  Gurmukhl  language,  the 
dialect  of  the  Sikhs,  was  studied,  and  the  religion 
with  which  it  is  so  closely  allied.  A dictionary,  a 
grammar,  a geography,  a number  of  religious  tracts, 
and  more  than  all,  a revised  and  to  some  extent  a 
new  translation  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  were  prepared ; 
and  most  of  them  have  been  printed  at  the  Lodiana 
press,  though  some  of  them  are  now  in  the  course  of 
publication.  Two  or  three  of  the  missionaries  have 
learned  the  Gurmukhi,  and  one  of  them  is  probably 
the  best*scholar  in  that  language  now  living ; while 
all  the  missionaries,  from  their  location,  have  enjoyed 
peculiar  advantages  for  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  other  dialects  spoken  in  that  part  of  India,  and 
with  the  general  state  of  society,  religion,  &c., 
amongst  the  people.  It  is  confidently  believed  that 
no  other  Missionary  Institution  is  so  completely  fur- 
nished for  the  great  work  of  evangelizing  the  Panjab, 
and  certainly  no  other  has  had  this  object  so  long 
and  so  constantly  in  view,  as  the  Missionary  Board 
of  our  Church. 

“If  the  door  of  entrance  into  the  Panjab  had  been 
open  seventeen  years  ago,  the  Church  was  not  then 
prepared  to  take  possession  of  that  good  land.  Now 
her  work  of  preparation  has  been  completed,  and  in 
the  wonderful  working  of  Divine  Providence  the  door 
is  widely  open.  The  death  of  Ranjit  Singh  was 
celebrated  with  the  immolation  of  eleven  females  on 
his  funeral  pile.  It  was  an  act  characteristic  of  the 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


243 


reign  of  Satan,  but  it  was  one  of  the  signs  of  his 
falling  kingdom.  Ranjtt  left  no  successor  capable 
of  wielding  his  iron  sceptre.  The  country  soon  fell 
into  a state  of  anarchy,  under  the  leaders  of  the  army 
which  he  had  trained ; and  they  were  so  elated  with 
mistaken  views  of  their  own  power,  as  to  resolve  on 
the  overthrow  of  the  British  dominion  in  India.  For 
this  purpose,  unprovoked,  they  crossed  the  Sutlej, 
into  British  territory.  Defeated,  they  withdrew,  and 
were  allowed  to  retain  most  of  their  possessions, 
only  a narrow  tract  on  the  south-eastern  side  of  the 
Panjab  being  appropriated  by  the  British  to  defray 
the  expenses  of  the  war.  In  this  region,  known  as 
the  Jalandar  Doab,  a missionary  station  was  formed, 
in  connexion  with  the  station  at  Lodiana,  three 
years  ago.  A second  time,  equally  without  provoca- 
tion, these  chiefs  and  their  fierce  troops  arrayed 
themselves  against  their  former  foe.  The  conflict 
between  the  Sikh  and  British  armies  was  terrible, 
and  the  issue  for  a time  doubtful ; but  the  end  was 
the  prostration  of  the  Sikh  power,  and  the  annexa- 
tion of  the  whole  Panjab  to  the  Anglo-Indian  empire 
— a measure  hailed  with  satisfaction  by  the  greater 
part  of  the  inhabitants  of  that  long  oppressed  land. 
The  former  native  rule  was  a lawless  military  des- 
potism ; the  present  is  a government  of  law,  in  the 
hands  of  a Christian  nation.  And  as  the  result  of 
these  great  changes  in  the  political  condition  of  the 
Panjab,  changes  which  the  Christian  must  recognise 
as  permitted  by  Providence  for  wise  and  holy  pur- 
poses, the  whole  of  that  interesting  country  is  now 


244 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OP  THE  MISSION. 


open  to  the  missionary,  and  two  of  our  brethren  are 
pursuing  their  work  in  its  chief  city. 

“ Their  position  is  one  of  commanding  importance, 
with  reference  to  the  Panjab  itself  and  its  energetic 
people,  and  also  with  reference  to  other  countries  on 
its  borders,  where  the  light  of  the  Gospel  does  not 
yet  shine.  Our  mission,  at  such  a post,  ought  to  be 
a strong  one.  It  should  have  the  usual  departments 
of  missionary  labor,  and  these  should  be  amply  sus- 
tained with  men  and  funds.  Above  all,  it  should  be 
borne,  on  the  prayers  of  God’s  people,  before  the 
throne  of  grace. 

“ The  Committee  have  considered  it  expedient  to 
state  the  history  and  claims  of  this  new  station  at 
some  length.  They  would  only  add  the  expression  of 
their  gratification  at  learning  that  the  missionaries 
received  a cordial  welcome  from  the  English  resi- 
dents at  Lahor.” 

The  Furrukhabad  Mission  has  stations  at  Futteh- 
gurh,  Mynpurie,  and  Agra.  The  Allahabad  Mission 
has  but  one  station,  at  the  city  of  Allahabad. 

The  classification  of  the  stations  as  Missions  is 
made  chiefly  for  the  convenience  of  the  missionaries, 
in  the  transaction  of  their  financial  and  other  busi- 
ness matters.  A classification  of  a different  nature, 
is  that  which  groups  the  missionaries  and  their  con- 
verts under  the  ecclesiastical  system  of  the  Church, 
with  which  they  account  it  their  happiness  to  be 
connected.  Three  Presbyteries*  have  been  consti- 

* Besides  these,  the  missionaries  stationed  at  Saharunpur,  who  are 
connected  ecclesiastically  with  the  Reformed  Presbyterian  Church, 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


245 


tuted  by  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  which  are  known  by  the  same  names  and 
embrace  the  same  ministers  and  churches  as  the 
Missions,  with  the  exception  stated  in  the  note 
below.  These  Presbyteries  form  the  Synod  of 
North  India. 

The  sessions  of  this  venerable  Court  of  the  Church 
must  be  expected  to  exert  a happy  influence  on  the 
missionary  work  in  Upper  India.  It  is  thus  referred 
to  in  the  Annual  Report  of  the  Board  for  this  year : 

“ In  the  preceding  narrative,  references  have  been 
made  incidentally  to  the  second  meeting  of  the 
Synod  of  North  India,  which  held  its  sessions  at  Agra, 
in  December,  1848 

“ The  missionary  brethren  themselves  speak  of  the 
Synodical  meeting  as  an  occasion  of  no  ordinary 
interest,  and  as  subserving  important  objects.  In 
the  Report  of  the  Allahabad  Mission,  after  mention- 
ing that  the  ruling  elder,  Babu  John  Harry,  since 
licensed  to  preach,  accompanied  the  missionaries  to 
the  meeting  of  Synod,  ‘ especially  because  we  required 
his  assistance  in  the  peculiar  work  before  the  Synod/ 
the  brethren  proceed : 

“ ‘ The  Synod  held  thirteen  Sessions — an  opening 
one,  and  twelve  serious  days’  work.  We  were 
mostly  engaged  in  a careful  and  detailed  revision  of 
the  translation  of  the  Confession  of  Faith  and 
Shorter  Catechism  in  Urdu.  The  former  had  been 

have  been  organized  as  a Presbytery.  Their  missionary  relation  is 
with  the  Board,  as  well  as  with  their  own  Church,  and  it  has  always 
been  a pleasant  one  to  themselves  and  to  their  missionary  brethren. 


246 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


prepared  by  the  Lodiana  Mission,  and  carefully 
revised  by  a member  of  our  Presbytery  ; and  the 
latter  was  the  work  of  our  Presbytery  altogether. 
A member  of  the  Lodiana  Presbytery  had  also 
assisted  in  finally  revising  and  preparing  these  for 
presentation  to  the  Synod.  We  ought  also  to  men- 
tion that  Mr.  Wilson,  of  Agra,  while  with  us  at  Alla- 
habad, assisted  in  the  translation  of  the  Shorter 
Catechism.  The  Synod  carefully  examined  these 
works,  freely  discussed  them,  and  adopted  them  at 
last,  as  the  authoritative  exposition  of  our  faith  in 
the  Urdu  language.  They  have  since  been  printed 
at  our  Press,  and  are  now  ready  for  distribution. 

“‘The  members  of  the  mission  who  were  present  at 
this  meeting  of  our  Synod,  would  record  their  senti- 
ments of  gratitude  that  they  were  permitted  to  enjoy 
this  privilege.  It  was  a great  privilege  in  this  dry 
and  thirsty  land,  to  see  one  another ; to  feel  the 
influence  which  a greater  number  always  exerts ; to 
strengthen  the  bonds  of  brotherly  affection,  and  to 
comfort  and  encourage  each  other’s  hearts.  We 
could  not  but  feel,  also,  the  influence  of  the  elevating 
sentiment  that  we  were  engaged  in  planting  in  this 
land  that  standard,  around  which  the  best  of  God’s 
people  in  all  ages  have  joyfully  rallied,  and  that 
system  of  doctrine,  which,  though  so  often  a sign 
spoken  against,  is  still,  instrumentally,  the  life  of  the 
Church,  and  presents  the  only  form  of  Christianity 
that  can  ever  give  masculine  character  to  the 
Church  of  India.’ 

“ This  meeting  can  hardly  be  viewed  with  less 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


247 


interest  by  the  churches  in  this  land,  whose  messen- 
gers were  thei'e  assembled  with  the  elders  of 
churches  planted  among  the  heathen.  Such  a meet- 
ing marks  almost  an  era  in  the  missionary  work  of 
the  Church,  and  deserves  a much  more  extended 
notice  than  can  be  given  to  it  by  the  Committee 
in  this  report.  It  is  a point  from  which  to  look  back 
and  to  look  forward.  But  a few  years  have  passed 
since  the  missionaries  of  our  Church  went  to  India. 
They  were  guided  by  the  good  hand  of  our  God  upon 
them  to  the  Upper  Provinces  as  their  field  of  labor, 
provinces  containing  thirty  millions  of  people. 
There  they  found  a field  in  a great  degree  unoccu- 
pied by  other  missionary  laborers.  In  the  midst  of 
personal  discouragement  and  bereavements,  they 
entered  on  their  work.  Open  doors  were  set  before 
them.  Reinforcements  from  the  Church  at  home 
increased  their  number.  The  Gospel  was  preached. 
The  Holy  Scriptures  were  translated,  printed,  and 
spread  abroad.  Many  of  the  heathen  youth  were 
brought  into  Christian  schools.  The  blessing  of 
God  was  not  withholden  from  their  labors.  Con- 
verts were  baptized.  Churches  were  formed.  Pres- 
byteries were  organized.  Candidates  for  the  Gospel 
ministry  were  licensed  and  ordained.  The  Synod 
was  constituted.  Our  ecclesiastical  system  is  found 
to  work  happily  on  missionary  ground.  Questions, 
abroad,  as  well  as  at  home,  which  give  trouble  to 
some  missionary  bodies,  are  quietly  and  satisfac- 
torily settled  under  our  well  known  rules.  God  is 
pleased  to  put  honor  on  sound  doctrine,  and  this  our 

12 


248 


A GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  MISSION. 


brethren  preach.  The  Church  will  view  with  plea- 
sure the  care  bestowed  by  her  servants  on  the  Hin- 
dustani Translation  of  her  venerable  Confession  of 
Faith.  It  is  a great  matter  to  have  such  a work 
performed  under  the  sanction  of  one  of  her  own 
Synods.  In  future  ages,  this  Confession  may  be 
referred  to  with  gratitude  by  greater  numbers  of 
Christians  than  now  praise  God  for  that  of  West- 
minster. 

“ On  the  whole  there  has  been  progress — gradual, 
steady,  and  substantial.  This  has  not  been  on  a 
large  scale,  in  the  view  of  sense  ; but  it  is  really 
great  in  the  eye  of  faith,  which  can  see  ‘ the  king- 
dom of  God,’  even  when  it  ‘cometh  not  with  obser- 
vation.’ The  churches  are  small ; the  candidates, 
few : the  native  catechists,  licentiate  preachers,  and 
ordained  ministers,  but  a little  band  ; but  it  is  of  the 
Lord’s  doing  that  there  are  any  ! It  is  a more  sig- 
nal display  of  Divine  power,  speaking  after  the  man- 
ner of  men,  to  rescue  a few  souls  at  first  from  the 
power  of  Satan,  and  to  plant  a few  churches  at  first 
in  a land  of  spiritual  darkness  and  death,  than  it  will 
be  to  increase  those  few  disciples  and  churches  to 
an  exceedingly  great  and  glorious  host.  This  brief 
review  of  the  past,  therefore,  should  encourage  the 
Church  to  expect  great  things  in  the  time  to  come. 
The  foundations  of  a great  work  are  laid,  and  some 
living  stones  are  now  in  the  walls  of  the  spiritual 
temple.  In  the  Lord’s  time,  the  headstone  thereof 
shall  be  brought  forth,  with  shoutings,  crying  grace, 
grace  unto  it.” 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


249 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 

The  north-western  provinces  not  occupied  with  Missionary  institu- 
tions— Urgent  wants  of  adult  Heathens — Encouragement  of  Chris- 
tian effort — India  open  for  Missionary  labors — An  interior  movement 
now  in  progress — The  Hindus  in  a transition  state  ; shall  they 
become  Christians  or  Infidels  1 — Religious  movements  en  masse — 
The  kind  of  men  required  as  Missionaries. 

It  certainly  deserves  our  devout  thanksgiving,  that 
so  large  a mission  establishment  is  now  planted  and 
exerting  an  effective  influence  where,  a few  years 
ago,  there  was  but  a solitary  pioneer,  or  rather  where 
but  a year  or  two  before,  the  wants  and  even  the 
names  of  those  provinces,  and  their  millions  of  peo- 
ple, were  little  known  to  our  churches.  A beginning 
has  been  made,  a number  of  faithful  laborers  are 
engaged  in  the  Lord’s  work,  schools  have  been 
formed,  the  Sacred  Scriptures  printed  and  circulated 
widely,  churches  and  Presbyteries  constituted,  and 
the  work  of  converting  grace  displayed,  and  still  in 
progress ; this  is  surely  the  Lord’s  work,  and  it  is 
marvellous  in  our  eyes.  We  cannot  but  regard  the 
past  history  of  those  missions  as  presenting  a strong 
inducement  to  enlarged  efforts,  and  as  holding  out 
good  encouragement  of  final  success. 


250 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


That  success  should  be  devoutly  prayed  for  in 
these  endeavors,  no  one  can  doubt,  who  considers 
how  lamentable  is  the  condition  of  men  not  enjoying 
the  light  of  Revelation,  and  how  far  above  all  price 
are  the  benefits  conferred  on  those  who  sincerely 
embrace  the  gospel  of  Jesus  Christ.  Every  motive 
that  induces  Christians  to  set  a high  estimate  on 
their  religion,  should  persuade  them  to  use  all  pro- 
per means  to  extend  its  blessings  to  those  who  are 
destitute  of  them.  Nor  is  this  duty  left  to  their 
choice.  Its  performance  is  made  binding  by  the 
command  of  Christ.  The  generous  promptings, 
however,  of  their  benign  faith,  not  less  than  the 
beautiful  example  of  their  blessed  Lord,  should  con- 
strain them  to  offer  a free  and  ready  service  on 
behalf  of  those  who  are  represented  in  Sacred  Scrip- 
ture, with  touching  simplicity,  as  “ sitting  in  dark- 
ness and  the  shadow  of  death.” 

The  entire  north-western  part  of  India,  above  a 
line  drawn  between  Benares  and  Allahabad,  may  be 
regarded  as  specially  open  to  our  missionaries. 
There  are  many  important  places  below  that  line 
where  they  might  be  well  employed,  indeed  where 
the  services  of  missionaries  are  most  urgently 
required ; and  they  would  be  made  welcome  by  the 
missionaries  of  other  branches  of  the  Church  of 
Christ,  now  employed  in  the  lower  provinces,  their 
numbers  and  resources  being  altogether  inadequate 
to  the  work  in  which  they  are  engaged.  But  in 
the  north  and  north-western  parts  of  India,  there  are 
no  other  missionaries  from  the  American  Church,  and 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


251 


but  few  from  the  English  Societies.  The  entire 
number  of  European  missionaries  is  probably  under 
a dozen,  nor  is  there  a prospect  of  this  number  being 
much  increased.  There  is  ample  room,  therefore, 
for  the  employment  of  many  more  missionaries  from 
this  country.  Those  upper  parts  of  India,  from 
Allahabad  to  the  Indus,  and  from  the  mountains  so 
far  westward  as  to  include  the  Raj-put  tribes,  com- 
prise the  provinces  of  Allahabad,  Agra,  and  Delhi, 
part  of  Malwa,  and  the  whole  of  Rajputana,  the 
kingdom  of  Oude,  the  Protected  Hill  and  Sikh  States, 
and  the  entire  kingdom  of  the  Panjab,  including 
Cashmere,  containing  in  all  a population  of  probably 
thirty  millions.  And  besides  these,  the  provinces  of 
Scinde,  on  the  lower  waters  of  the  Indus,  the  coun- 
tries of  Beloochistan  and  Affghanistan,  west  of  the 
Indus,  and  Thibet  on  the  north-east,  can  all  be 
reached  from  this  part  of  India,  more  readily  than 
from  any  other  quarter.  In  all  these  countries  there 
is  no  mission  establishment  whatever. 

One  of  the  greatest  objects  of  Christian  missions 
is  certainly  that  of  preparing  the  natives  for  becom- 
ing themselves  preachers  of  righteousness  to  their 
countrymen;  yet  we  cannot  doubt  the  extreme  import- 
ance of  all  proper  kinds  of  labor,  that  look  to  the  con- 
version of  adult  heathens.  These  must  be  made  by 
foreign  missionaries,  if  our  benevolence  shall  reach 
the  generation  now  on  the  stage  of  life.  In  a few 
years  more,  they  will  go  down  to  the  land  of  silence, 
before  the  work  can  be  completed  of  training  up 
native  youths,  and  sending  them  forth  on  this  high 


252 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


errand  of  mercy  to  their  fathers  and  older  country- 
men. The  Christians  now  living  must  put  them- 
selves in  communication  with  the  heathens  now 
living,  and  that  chiefly  by  their  direct  efforts,  if  the 
latter  shall  be  made  to  know  the  true  God  and 
eternal  life,  which  is  through  his  son  Jesus  Christ  our 
Lord.  And  beyond  all  question,  the  followers  of 
Christ  are  responsible,  and  will  be  held  to  a strict 
account  in  the  great  day,  for  the  fulfilment  of  this 
duty,  according  to  the  measure  of  their  means  and 
opportunities. 

If  to  any  it  should  appear  a hopeless  work  to 
preach  Christ  and  him  crucified  to  adult  heathens, 
confirmed  in  evil  habits,  and  surrounded  with  tem- 
poral interests  altogether  adverse  to  their  believing 
on  the  Son  of  God,  let  it  be  remembered  that  there 
is  the  same  encouragement  now  as  in  the  first  ages 
of  the  Church.  A minister  of  the  Gospel  has  the 
same  reasons  to  expect  the  Divine  blessing  on  his 
ministrations  among  the  Hindus,  that  gave  encou- 
ragement to  the  apostle  Paul  to  preach  in  the  city  of 
Ephesus,  or  to  the  missionaries  who  first  preached  the 
gospel  to  the  barbarous  tribes  of  idolaters  in  Great 
Britain  and  other  parts  of  Europe — our  own  fore- 
fathers. In  both  cases  it  is  by  the  foolishness  of 
preaching,  that  God  is  pleased  to  save  them  that 
believe.  In  both  cases,  it  is  the  power  of  God  that 
must  overcome  the  otherwise  insuperable  difficulties, 
that  would  hinder  and  utterly  prevent  the  conversion 
of  any  pagan,  either  in  ancient  ot  modern  times. 
And  that  power  shall  not  be  withheld,  when  the  fol- 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


253 


lowers  of  Christ  sincerely  seek  its  aid,  and  employ 
the  appointed  means  through  which  that  aid  is  given. 
On  this  principle  rests  the  whole  superstructure  of 
Christian  Missions. 

In  India,  the  way  is  made  ready  for  the  employ- 
ment of  these  appointed  means.  That  country,  and 
its  multitudes  of  inhabitants,  are  now  under  the  con- 
trol of  a Protestant  government  ; and  Christian 
ministers,  without  receiving  any  special  favor,  which 
indeed  they  need  not  desire,  are  protected  as  citizens, 
and  may  spend  their  entire  strength  in  the  fulfilment 
of  their  holy  vocation,  no  man  hindering  them,  nor 
making  them  afraid.  After  learning  the  language, 
they  may  preach  the  gospel  to  the  natives,  not 
always  in  congregations  statedly  assembling  in  one 
place  of  worship,  but  as  opportunity  offers, — in  the 
midst  of  large  crowds,  or  to  a few  villagers,  gathered 
around  the  shady  peepul  tree,  or  to  the  solitary 
inquirer  who  comes  like  Nicodemus,  at  night,  to 
their  houses,  to  ask,  how  can  these  things  be  ? or  in 
the  midst  of  a school-room,  day  after  day,  to  a num- 
ber of  hopeful  youth.  They  may  translate  the  Sacred 
Scriptures,  and  place  them  in  the  hands  of  those 
who  are  able  to  read.  They  may  teach  those  con- 
verts, who  possess  suitable  gifts,  the  way  of  God  more 
perfectly,  and  then  send  them  forth  in  their  Lords’ 
name  to  teach  others.  Thus  is  there  an  open  door  set 
before  the  Church,  by  the  good  providence  of  God. 

Besides  this  outward  door  open,  there  is  an  inte- 
rior movement  of  most  deep  interest  now  in  progress 
among  the  Hindus,  which  must  not  be  overlooked. 


254 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


Various  influences  are  at  work  undermining  the 
existing  fabric  of  superstition.  The  administration 
of  the  government  by  foreigners,  who,  while  they 
protect  all  in  their  common  rights,  bestow  special 
favor  on  no  exclusive  class,  and  grant  no  immunity 
in  crime,  not  even  to  a brahman,  though  shielded  by 
all  the  special  enactments  of  the  Shastras,  has  a 
silent  influence  on  the  minds  of  the  people  against 
their  religion  ; this  influence  may  be  almost  unseen, 
but  it  is  as  steady  and  as  mighty  as  the  flowing  of 
the  tide  on  the  ocean.  The  advance  of  knowledge, 
on  common  subjects,  is  not  less  directly  hostile  to 
the  Hindu  religion.  The  peculiar  opinion,  accord- 
ing to  which  their  books  on  most  branches  of  know- 
ledge are  accounted  sacred,  has  been  already  pointed 
out.  And  it  leads  to  most  important  results.  These 
books,  at  least  many  of  them,  are  filled  with  the 
grossest  error,  not  merely  on  religious  subjects,  but 
on  common  topics — such  as  the  shape  of  the  earth,  the 
position  of  its  mountains  and  rivers,  the  cause  of  eclip- 
ses, the  influence  of  the  planets  on  human  affairs,  the 
manner  of  curing  diseases,  &c.  Their  belief  in  the 
most  absurd  notions  on  these  subjects,  is  based  on 
the  same  authority  which  has  peopled  their  heavens 
with  millions  of  gods  and  goddesses,  and  ordained 
their  priests  and  manifold  ceremonial  observances. 
Let  them  see  that  in  the  former  things  they  have 
been  altogether  mistaken,  and  it  will  not  be  long 
before  they  discover  the  groundless  claims  of  the  lat- 
ter. Both  stand  on  the  same  platform,  and  must 
stand  or  fall  together.  The  former  are  now  falling. 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


255 


European  science  and  correct  knowledge  are  sup- 
planting the  fables  of  the  East.  Many  of  the  more 
influential  classes,  and  of  those  who  will  become 
influential,  are  now  abandoning  the  silly  legends  of 
the  Hindu  Shastras,  and  their  number  is  constantly 
increasing.  Commonly,  if  not  always,  these  Hindus 
abandon  at  the  same  time  the  religious  faith  of 
their  country.  For  a while  they  may  comply  with 
its  outward  forms,  yet  will  they  stop  in  the  midst  of 
their  prayers,  to  tell  you  that  they  are  merely  con- 
forming to  what  is  customary.  Indeed,  to  a great 
extent,  the  Hindu  religion  may  now  be  characterized 
as  a religion  of  usage,  and  not  of  reverence  or  feel- 
ing. It  was  never  a religion  of  love,  and  therefore 
its  hold  on  its  votaries  can  be  the  more  easily  broken. 
Besides  all  this,  multitudes  of  youth  are  now  forming 
such  habits  of  accurate  mental  study,  of  ascertain- 
ing truth  by  induction  and  severe  reason,  as  would 
lead  them  to  reject  the  visionary  religious  revela- 
tions of  the  Hindu  sacred  books,  even  were  their 
instructions  on  profane  topics  less  erroneous.  In 
short  the  Hindus  may  be  regarded  as  now  in  a 
transition  state.  They  are  leaving  the  false  and 
dangerous  moorings  of  Hinduism,  and  setting  out  on 
the  tide  of  new  opinions,  impelled  by  a self-trusting 
and  reckless  spirit,  without  chart  or  pilot — where 
shall  their  voyage  end  ? Certain  it  is,  that  they  will 
not  continue  pagans  many  generations  longer  ; shall 
they  become  sincere  worshippers  of  the  true  God,  or 
madly  follow  the  vain  imaginations  of  the  natural 
mind  into  the  heartless  regions  of  scepticism  ? This 

12* 


256 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


question  can  be  answered  satisfactorily,  if  the  Church 
employ  Christian  agencies  in  a right  spirit,  and  to  a 
suitable  extent.  All  these  general  influences,  now 
gradually  working  such  mighty  changes,  are  but  doing 
a part  of  her  work.  They  are  disabusing  the  minds  of 
the  people  of  error ; let  the  servants  of  the  Church 
stand  by  and  fill  their  minds  with  truth.  Let  them 
build  up  the  walls  of  Zion  among  the  Hindus,  while 
the  fortresses  of  the  great  adversary  are  falling  in 
ruins. 

There  is  another  view  of  India  as  a missionary 
field,  which  cannot  be  surveyed  without  inspiring  the 
mind  with  hope,  not  unmingled  with  anxiety.  So 
intimately  bound  together  are  the  Hindus  in  their 
respective  castes,  and  so  terrible  are  the  consequen- 
ces of  losing  one’s  place  in  the  sect  of  which  he  is  a 
member,  that  few  have  forsaken  Hinduism.  This  is 
not  strange  ; the  wonder  is  rather  that  so  many  have 
become  Christians.  These  bonds  of  caste  will  keep 
men  from  embracing  a different  religion  as  indivi- 
duals, separately,  but  they  will  also  lead  to  large 
masses  of  people  making  that  change  together. 
The  motives  which  are  sufficient  to  influence  the 
mind  of  one  man  will,  before  they  have  led  him  to 
any  final  decision^  have  become  the  motives  of  hun- 
dreds more  of  the  same  sect ; they  will  then  forsake 
their  old  religion  together,  and  they  will  strengthen 
each  other  in  their  new  faith.  Years  ago,  reflecting 
observers  predicted  this  result.  And  a striking  exam- 
ple of  the  correctness  of  their  opinions  has  been  wit- 
nessed in  Krishnagur,  a district  of  Bengal,  about 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


257 


sixty  or  seventy  miles  north  of  Calcutta.  Large 
numbers  of  the  Kurta  Bhojas,  one  of  the  smaller 
sects,  have  been  received  into  the  Christian  Church 
at  that  station,  under  the  labors  of  the  English  Epis- 
copal Missionaries.  This  movement  extended  to 
thousands  of  that  sect,  while  surrounding  sects  were 
hardly  at  all  impressed.  Thus  it  probably  will  be 
throughout  India.  Such  is  our  hope.  Our  fear  is, 
that  when  these  movements  shall  take  place,  the 
Church  may  not  be  prepared,  with  her  servants  and 
their  native  co-laborers,  to  point  the  minds  of  the 
inquiring  multitudes  to  the  “ Lamb  of  God  that  tak- 
eth  away  the  sin  of  the  world.”  What  could  the 
four  missionary  brethren  and  their  two  native  assist- 
ants accomplish  at  Futtehgurh,  if  the  people  of  Fur- 
rukhabad,  a city  a few  miles  distant,  of  more  than 
one  hundred  thousand  souls,  should  now  arise  'en 
masse,  renounce  their  idols,  and  seek  a new  religion  ? 
It  may  be  said  that  these  changes  cannot  be  expected 
until  the  means  shall  have  been  employed  to  produce 
them,  and  then  those  means  shall  serve  to  give  them 
a safe  direction.  But  may  there  not  be  light  enough 
to  show  them  their  danger,  and  yet  not  enough  to 
point  out  the  way  of  escape  ? Besides,  this  view 
only  postpones  the  time  of  these  great  and  general 
religious  movements,  the  arrival  of  which  every 
Christian  should  be  anxious  rather  to  hasten  than 
retard.  And  moreover  there  are,  as  has  been  shown, 
causes  now  at  work  to  produce  these  changes, 
though  a large  part  of  these  causes  are  purely  secu- 
lar ; and  unless  Christian  efforts  are  combined  with 


258 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


them,  their  result  will  prove  anything  else  than  favor- 
able to  the  religious  benefit  of  the  people. 

These  considerations  clearly  show,  that  India  is 
a most  important  sphere  of  missionary  labor.  “ The 
harvest  truly  is  plenteous,  but  the  laborers  are  few.” 

I shall  only  add,  that  the  missionary  field  in  Upper 
India  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  that  part  of  the 
Church  by  which  these  missions  are  supported,  at  the 
time  that  she  was  beginning  to  move  forward  as  a 
distinct  tribe  in  Israel  in  the  missionary  work.  It  is 
not  presumptuous  for  us  to  believe  that  in  this  there 
was  far  more  than  a merely  casual  coincidence.  Let 
those,  who  have  “ understanding  of  the  times  to 
know  what  Israel  ought  to  do,”  consider  to  what  im- 
portant results  this  connexion  should  lead. 

The  question  has  been  asked,  what  kind  of  men 
are  needed  for  missionary  service  in  India  ? It  is 
obvious  that  in  so  large  a field  of  labor,  there  must 
be  room  for  the  employment  of  men  of  very  different 
and  unequal  gifts.  Among  the  apostles,  the  earliest 
missionaries,  usefulness  was  not  limited  to  the  labors 
of  the  highly-gifted  Paul;  Thomas,  a man  of  far 
less  talent  and  learning,  has  left  traces  of  his  success 
in  his  Lord’s  work,  in  places  further  distant  from 
Jerusalem  than  Paul  ever  travelled. 

While  there  is  ample  scope  for  the  full  employ- 
ment of  talents  of  the  highest  order,  men  of  moderate 
abilities  should  not  be  discouraged  from  entering  on 
the  missionary  field  in  India.  It  is  highly  desirable, 
however,  that  our  missionaries  should  be  able, 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. 


259 


wise,  learned,  and  practical  men;  the  stronger 
in  these  respects  they  are,  the  better,  if  only  they 
have  such  a religious  character  as  shall  guard  them 
from  self-confidence  and  other  evils,  to  which  gifted 
men  of  little  grace  are  exposed.  I would  insist  far 
more  on  matured  and  deep  religious  attainments  than 
on  talents  and  learning  in  a missionary.  He  should 
have  such  convictions  of  his  own  unworthiness,  such 
views  of  his  Lord’s  glory,  and  such  desires  for  the 
salvation  of  the  heathen,  as  would  make  him  at  once 
humble,  zealous,  patient,  and  laborious  in  his  sacred 
calling.  A self-willed  man  ought  not  to  be  a mis- 
sionary, especially  if  he  is  to  be  associated  with 
others  ; nor  should  one  who  desires  to  have  the  pre- 
eminence. Even  in  the  Church  at  home,  a man  who 
cannot  bear  contradiction  without  impatience,  but 
must  have  his  own  way  or  none  ; who  is  anxious  to 
be  known  as  the  principal  agent,  and  to  have  his  own 
proceedings  conspicuously  set  forth ; who  can  allow 
himself  to  speak  harshly  and  contemptuously  of  his 
brethren  ; who  has  a suspicious  temper,  readily  takes 
offence,  and  is  slow  to  forgive  ; especially  if  he  have 
more  than  common  ability,  or  is  supported  by  any- 
thing peculiar  in  his  family  connexions,  or  in  his 
position  in  the  community  ; — such  a man  is  sure  to 
be  both  the  cause  and  the  occasion  of  trouble  and 
dissension,  though  he  is  here  surrounded  by  a thou- 
sand counteracting  and  regulating  influences.  To 
make  a minister  of  the  gospel  of  such  a man,  is  a 
very  doubtful  service  to  the  Church  of  Christ ; to 
make  a missionary  of  such  a man  would  be  a severe 


260 


GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS, 


trial  to  those  who  might  be  compelled  to  associate 
with  him,  and  would  probably  contribute  little  to  the 
establishment  of  the  gospel  among  the  heathen.  I 
am  thankful  that  I have  never  met  with  such  a mis* 
sionary  ; and  I have  drawn  the  sketch  only  to  pre- 
sent at  one  view  various  evil  traits,  which  should  be 
guarded  against  with  all  care.  The  seeds  of  these 
evils  are  found  in  the  corrupt  nature  of  man.  Reli- 
gion alone  can  effectually  restrain  and  correct  them. 
Where  missionaries  are  so  few  in  number,  so  closely 
connected  together,  and  so  dependent  on  each  other, 
there  should  be  special  care  to  exclude  everything 
that  would  hinder  their  happiness  or  their  usefulness. 
No  one  should  expect  special  deference  to  be  paid  to 
his  views  ; every  one  should  be  willing  to  submit 
himself  to  his  brethren  in  the  Lord ; and  all  should 
aim  to  excel  in  humility  of  mind,  in  the  study  of 
whatsoever  things  are  lovely,  and  in  a sacred  devo- 
tion to  the  great  object  of  their  mission.  Let  a suf- 
ficient number  of  such  missionaries  be  employed,  and 
let  the  Church  support  them  with  her  gifts  and  her 
prayers,  and  the  time  shall  not  be  long  distant  when 
the  praise  of  the  most  high  God  shall  ascend  from  the 
millions  of  India. 


APPENDIX. 


I.  THE  BRITISH  RULE  AND  THE  ENGLISH  LANGUAGE 
IN  INDIA. 

II.  ON  THE  RELATION  OF  MISSIONARIES  TO  EUROPEANS 


IN  INDIA. 


THE  BRITISH  RULE,  AND  THE  ENGLISH  LANGUAGE  IN 
INDIA. 

Referred  to  on  pages  31,  63,  and  elsewhere. 

It  is  one  of  the  wonderful  tilings  of  Providence, 
that  the  millions  of  India  should  be  brought  under 
the  same  government  with  the  inhabitants  of  a small 
island  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  globe.  And  it 
appears  the  more  wonderful,  when  we  recollect  that 
two  thousand  years  ago  these  islanders  were  a bar- 
barous people,  while  the  Hindus  were  as  civilized  as 
they  are  at  the  present,  day.  The  history  of  these 
nations  teaches  that  heathenism  exerts  no  beneficial 
influence  on  the  condition  of  its  subjects,  and  that 
the  Gospel  is  the  best  means  of  civilizing  rude  tribes 
and  elevating  them  to  the  highest  grade  of  national 
welfare.  The  design  of  God  in  permitting  the  sub- 
jection of  the  Hindus  to  the  British  government, 
we  cannot  doubt,  is  both  wise  and  good. 

The  Anglo-Indian  government  is  now  but  a part 
of  the  government  of  Great  Britain.  The  charter 
of  the  East  India  Company  has  been  so  modified, 
that  all  the  proceedings  of  its  officers  and  servants  are 
under  the  supervision  and  control  of  the  British  par- 
liament. The  policy  of  Great  Britain,  whether 
liberal  or  exclusive,  is  the  policy  of  the  government 


I.  THE  BRITISH  RULE  AND  THE  ENGLISH  LANGUAGE 
IN  INDIA. 

II.  ON  THE  RELATION  OF  MISSIONARIES  TO  EUROPEANS 


IN  INDIA 


THE  BRITISH  RULE,  AND  THE  ENGLISH  LANGUAGE  IN 
INDIA. 

Referred  to  on  pages  31,  63,  and  elsewhere. 

It  is  one  of  the  wonderful  tilings  of  Providence, 
that  the  millions  of  India  should  be  brought  under 
the  same  government  with  the  inhabitants  of  a small 
island  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  globe.  And  it 
appears  the  more  wonderful,  when  we  recollect  that 
two  thousand  years  ago  these  islanders  were  a bar- 
barous people,  while  the  Hindus  were  as  civilized  as 
they  are  at  the  present  day.  The  history  of  these 
nations  teaches  that  heathenism  exerts  no  beneficial 
influence  on  the  condition  of  its  subjects,  and  that 
the  Gospel  is  the  best  means  of  civilizing  rude  tribes 
and  elevating  them  to  the  highest  grade  of  national 
welfare.  The 'design  of  God  in  permitting  the  sub- 
jection of  the  Hindus  to  the  British  government, 
we  cannot  doubt,  is  both  wise  and  good. 

The  Anglo-Indian  government  is  now  but  a part 
of  the  government  of  Great  Britain.  The  charter 
of  the  East  India  Company  has  been  so  modified, 
that  all  the  proceedings  of  its  officers  and  servants  are 
under  the  supervision  and  control  of  the  British  par- 
liament. The  policy  of  Great  Britain,  whether 
liberal  or  exclusive,  is  the  policy  of  the  government 


264 


APPENDIX. 


authorities  in  India.  Happily  for  themselves  and  for 
a large  portion  of  the  human  family,  liberal  views 
are  generally  prevalent  among  the  British  people. 

The  conduct  of  many  of  the  earlier  European 
residents  in  India  towards  the  natives  was  often 
unworthy  of  Christian  and  upright  men.  The  means 
by  which  the  power  of  the  East  India  Company  was 
sometimes  established  and  extended,  can  by  no  means 
admit  of  justification,  nor  even  of  excuse.  Of  these 
things,  no  one  can  express  approbation,  any  more 
than  of  too  many  things  in  the  history  of  our  con- 
nexion with  the  Indian  tribes  of  this  land.  But  for 
many  years  the  Anglo-Indian  government  has  been 
so  conducted  as  to  prove  a great  benefit  to  the 
Hindus. 

We  see  proofs  of  this  on  every  side.  The  su- 
premacy of  the  British  has  procured  for  the 
Hindus  rulers  who  are  friendly  to  the  mass  of  the 
people,  instead  of  oppressors  who  ruled  over  them 
with  a rod  of  iron.  It  has  obtained  for  them  an 
upright  administration  of  their  affairs ; justice  im- 
partially rendered  to  all,  as  far  as  the  falsehood  and 
deception  of  the  native  character  will  permit ; trade 
and  commerce  unfettered  by  violent  exactions ; pro- 
perty acquired  openly  and  possessed  without  fear  ; 
foreign  capital  and  intelligence  employed  to  develope 
the  resources  of  the  country,  and  to  introduce  the 
superior  improvements  of  other  lands;  the  resi- 
dence amongst  them  of  many  well  informed  and 
benevolent  men,  whose  example  and  influence 
are  favorable  to  everything  that  is  good ; and  above 


APPENDIX. 


265 


all,  the  means  of  grace  appointed  by  God  for  their 
salvation.  There  are  evils  connected  with  a foreign 
government  over  the  Hindus  ; but  the  blessings  are 
great  and  substantial. 

I have  adverted,  generally,  in  the  preceding  pages, 
to  what  has  appeared  to  me  the  most  serious  of  these 
evils — the  constant  drain  of  income  from  India  to  be 
spent  in  England ; connected  with  which  is  the 
almost  universal  return  of  the  European  rulers  to 
their  own  country,  after  certain  periods  of  service,  on 
large  retiring  allowances.  This  involves  some  of 
the  consequences  tvhich  are  attributed  to  the  prac- 
tice of  landlords  living  absent  from  their  estates  in 
Ireland  and  the  West  Indies.  There  may  be  other 
evils,  and  more  easy  to  be  removed. 

In  judging  of  these  things,  we  must  keep  in  view 
the  corrupt  state  of  morals  in  a heathen  land,  and 
the  almost  universal  ignorance  of  the  inhabitants. 
These  make  it  impossible  to  conduct  the  government 
agreeably  to  the  views  of  popular  power  with  which 
we  are  happily  conversant ; and  they  form  serious 
obstacles  in  the  way  of  the  administration  of  govern- 
ment of  any  kind.  It  is  worthy  of  note,  moreover, 
that  the  British  rule  in  India  has  been  steadily 
growing  more  favorable  to  the  native  inhabitants. 
The  prohibition  of  the  horrid  practice  of  burning 
widows  on  the  funeral  pile  of  their  husbands  ; the 
suppression  of  Thuggism  ; the  withdrawal  of  patron- 
age from  the  heathen  temples,  are  measures  of  the 
last  few  years ; and  they  are  measures  which  will 
undoubtedly  tend  in  many  ways  to  promote  the 


266 


APPENDIX. 


benefit,  temporal  and  eternal,  of  the  Hindu  people. 
The  abolition  of  vexatious  and  ruinous  imposts  on 
all  kinds  of  internal  traffic,  a system  derived  from 
the  former  rulers  of  the  country,  and  long  retained 
by  the  British,  was  a measure  of  Lord  William  Ben- 
tinck’s  administration,  which  marked  an  era  in  the 
history  of  the  Hindus.  The  increasing  disposition 
to  foster  education,  both  in  the  English  and  the  ver- 
nacular languages  ; the  employment  of  greater  num- 
bers of  the  natives  in  stations  of  trust  ; the  patron- 
age of  public  works,  especially  of  railroads,  are 
instances  of  recent  Anglo-Indian  policy.  Other 
things  will  follow.  The  abolition  of  the  salt-mono- 
poly would  be  a priceless  boon  to  the  poor  Hindus.  A 
much  lower  assessment  on  all  lands  capable  of  grow- 
ing the  cotton  plant,  and  the  application  of  foreign 
capital  to  the  improved  cultivation  of  the  indigenous 
plant — not  the  fruitless  effort  to  naturalize  our 
American  plant — would  lead  to  an  immense  supply 
of  cotton,  both  for  Asiatic  and  European  markets. 
These  and  other  measures  are  dictated  by  sound 
policy,  which  should  seek  to  attach  the  natives  of 
India  to  her  foreign  rulers  by  the  ties  of  interest  as 
well  as  of  gratitude. 

The  introduction  of  the  English  language  among 
the  Hindus,  to  some  extent,  follows  in  the  train  of 
British  rule  in  India.  This  is  a matter  of  no  little 
moment,  as  it  is  closely  connected  with  the  subject 
of  the  education  of  the  Hindus, — a matter  often 
referred  to  in  the  preceding  work.  For  many  years 


APPENDIX. 


267 


various  causes  have  been  leading  many  of  the  natives, 
especially  those  of  the  better  classes,  to  seek  an 
acquaintance  with  our  language.  One  of  these  causes 
is  no  longer  in  operation,  at  least  not  to  the  extent 
that  it  was  some  fifteen  years  ago ; yet  its  effects 
remain,  and  its  direct  influence  is  still  partially  felt, 
while  it  is  itself  such  an  instance  as  could  hardly  be 
found  in  any  country  but  India ; I shall  therefore 
describe  it  briefly. 

During  Lord  William  Bentinck’s  administration, 
the  question  was  discussed  of  making  the  English 
the  language  of  business  in  the  courts  of  justice,  and 
eventually  in  the  other  departments  of  the  govern- 
ment. Formerly  the  Persian  was  chiefly  used  in  all 
government  transactions,  a language  introduced  by 
the  Mohammedan  rulers  for  their  own  convenience. 
It  was  a strange  tongue  to  the  great  mass  of  the 
inhabitants.  The  British  continued  the  use  of  the 
Persian,  though  it  was  now  a strange  tongue  alike 
to  the  rulers  and  the  ruled ! The  Mohammedan 
conquerors  cared  nothing  for  the  welfare  of  the  Hin- 
dus, and  compelled  them  to  submit  to  the  great  evil 
of  having  their  suits  issued  in  a strange  language, 
and  to  the  manifold  vexations,  impositions  and  exac- 
tions, resulting  from  that  procedure  in  a state  of 
society  so  deeply  corrupt.  The  English  authorities, 
on  the  other  hand,  through  an  excessive  dread  of 
interfering  with  existing  usages,  subjected  themselves 
to  the  necessity  of  learning  a new  language.  Hence 
arose  a necessity  for  interpreters,  not  for  the  natives 
only  as  under  the  Mohammedans,  but  in  many  cases 


268 


APPENDIX. 


for  the  English  ruler  also, whose  knowledge  of  Persian 
would  often  be  defective.  A wide  field  of  dishonest 
advantage  was  set  before  the  unprincipled  native 
law-agent,  who  would  not  hesitate  to  receive  bribes 
from  both  plaintiff  and  defendant,  in  order  to  make 
a favorable  representation  for  each  party  to  the 
judge.  The  most  upright  magistrate  might  easily 
do  injustice,  because  not  well  qualified  to  decide  on 
proceedings  in  a foreign  language,  nor  to  detect  the 
misrepresentations  of  the  wily  agents  around  him. 

This  state  of  things  was  felt  to  be  a grievous  burden. 
Its  evils  and  inconveniences  were  so  great,  and  so 
painfully  felt  by  all,  that  some  change  was  loudly 
called  for.  The  subject  was  discussed  in  the  news- 
papers, and  made  a matter  of  government  inquiry 
and  consideration.  Many  were  anxious  that  the 
English  should  be  substituted  for  the  Persian.  This 
would  have  placed  the  English  ruler  where  the 
Mohammedan  stood,  and  would  have  been  much 
better  than  to  continue  the  use  of  a language  foreign 
both  to  the  judge  and  the  people.  It  was  advocated, 
moreover,  with  zeal  and  ability  on  the  ground  of 
its  happy  influence  in  making  our  language  the 
language  of  learning,  and  of  intercourse  among  the 
higher  circles  of  society.  This  change,  however, 
was  not  finally  made ; though  the  Persian  was 
abolished.  The  native  dialects  are  becoming  more 
commonly  the  language  of  business  between  the 
English  and  the  Hindus.  Other  things  being  equal, 
a preference  is  given,  in  the  appointment  of  natives 
to  official  stations,  to  those  who  understand  the 


APPENDIX. 


269 


English  language ; and  this  is  understood  to  be  the 
policy  which  the  government  will  hereafter  pursue. 

The  agitation  of  this  subject  extended  over  a 
period  of  two  or  three  years,  and  created  among  the 
natives  a general  impression  that  the  English  would 
take  the  place  of  the  Persian  language.  They  were 
too  ignorant  and  too  selfish  to  understand  how  their 
rulers  could  come  to  any  other  decision.  This 
impression,  doubtless,  turned  the  attention  of  thou- 
sands to  the  study  of  the  language ; and  thousands 
more  will  pursue  that  study  still,  for  its  favorable 
bearing  on  their  hope  of  gaining  employment  under 
the  government.  Besides  these,  many  will  study  it 
to  obtain  the  stations  of  servants  in  English  families, 
clerks,  copyists,  factors,  agents,  in  the  transaction  of 
business,  &c.  Among  the  more  respectable  classes 
it  is  quite  an  object  with  many,  to  qualify  themselves 
for  holding  free  intercourse  with  the  officers  of 
government  and  other  European  residents.  Some 
may  have  been  influenced,  by  perceiving  that  a 
knowledge  of  our  language  would  give  them  import- 
ance in  the  eyes  of  their  countrymen,  connecting 
them,  as  it  would  be  considered,  with  those  who 
rule  over  the  country ; and  a few  may  have  been 
induced  to  acquire  it  from  their  love  of  knowledge 
for  its  own  sake. 

The  result  of  all  this,  as  will  readily  be  perceived, 
is  closely  connected  with  the  religious  question  of 
India.  The  native  languages  contain  little  valuable 
knowledge,  and  vast  stores  of  error,  and  of  the 
legends  of  idolatry.  The  English  language  contains, 


270 


APPENDIX. 


with  much  that  is  evil,  all  that  is  good.  Studying  it, 
thousands  of  influential  native  youth  will  abandon 
the  religion  of  their  fathers,  perceiving  that  it  is  alto- 
gether irreconcilable  with  the  simplest  rudiments  of 
correct  knowledge.  But  will  they  become  Christians  ? 
Not  necessarily.  A large  part  of  the  influence  that 
reaches  the  Hindu  mind  through  the  medium  of  our 
language  has  never  received  a Christian  baptism. 
Many  of  these  English  ideas  are  engaged  in  demo- 
lishing the  Hindu  temple,  but  they  do  not  build  up 
the  Christian  church.  Left  to  the  guidance  of  their 
own  depraved  hearts,  without  any  light  from  heaven 
to  direct  their  minds,  these  Hindu  English  readers 
will  become  infidels,  believers  in  no  religion  at  all. 
Many  of  the  natives,  especially  in  the  cities  where 
Europeans  reside,  and  natives  whose  English  educa- 
tion gives  them  great  influence  with  their  country- 
men, are  now  of  this  character.  In  France,  the 
dreadful  effects  of  infidelity  as  to  the  Christian  reli- 
gion were  displayed  at  the  close  of  the  last  century. 
There  is  too  much  reason  to  fear  the  eventual 
prevalence  of  a pagan  infidelity  in  India.  In  any 
country  infidelity  is  a miserable  substitute  for  faith. 
Under  its  influence  the  human  mind  is  empty  of  all 
elevating  and  inspiring  views,  the  human  heart  is 
unrestrained,  and  the  future  is  a dreary  and  dark 
waste.  But  these  are  matters  of  a negative  kind. 
Would  the  effects  of  infidelity  on  human  happiness 
be  less  disastrous  in  the  east  than  in  the  west  ? 
Would  property  and  life  be  safer  in  Calcutta  at  the 


APPENDIX. 


271 


close  of  the  nineteenth  century,  than  they  were  in 
Paris  at  the  end  of  the  eighteenth?  These  are  very 
grave  questions,  and  but  one  answer  can  be  given 
to  them. 

We  cannot,  therefore,  estimate  too  highly  the 
importance  of  those  institutions,  in  which,  together 
with  our  general  knowledge,  our  holy  religion  is 
daily  taught.  Other  kinds  of  missionary  efforts  are 
important.  The  preaching  of  the  Gospel  everywhere 
stands  first  in  the  order  of  Divinely  appointed  means 
of  grace  ; but  we  must  recollect  that  these  schools 
are  in  a country  where  12,000  missionaries,  sent  from 
Christian  lands,  were  it  possible  to  send  so  many, 
would  supply  only  one  to  every  10,000  souls  ; and  it 
is  therefore  essentially  necessary  to  educate  and  pre- 
pare native  preachers,  in  order  to  have  the  Gospel 
preached  to  every  creature.  These  weighty  con- 
siderations w’e  must  keep  in  view,  when  we  attempt 
to  estimate  the  importance  of  the  mission  schools  of 
India. 

It  would  be  interesting  to  view  some  other  aspects 
of  the  introduction  of  our  language  into  India.  Will 
the  native  young  men,  for  example,  who,  by  their 
English  education,  are  so  much  superior  to  their 
country-women,  be  contented  to  connect  themselves 
in  marriage  with  persons  little  suited  to  be  their 
companions  in  ignorance,  but  with  whom  they  can 
have  no  communion  of  mind  with  mind,  after  they 
have  become  themselves  comparatively  well-inform- 
ed ? What,  in  other  words,  will  be  the  influence  of 
this  superior  knowledge,  even  though  but  partially 

13 


272 


APPENDIX. 


diffused,  on  the  condition  of  the  female  sex  ? What 
will  be  its  influence,  again,  on  the  occupations  of 
the  Hindus?  And  what  its  influence  on  the  feelings 
with  which  they  will  regard  their  subjection  to  a 
foreign  nation  ? 

O 

It  is  the  Christian’s  happiness  to  know,  that  all  the 
affairs  of  nations  and  men  are  under  the  wise  and 
merciful  providence  of  the  God  and  Father  of  our 
Lord  and  Saviour  Jesus  Christ,  who  will  overrule 
and  determine  them,  so  as  to  fulfil  his  own  purposes, 
and  to  promote  his  own  glory. 


APPENDIX. 


273 


ON  THE  RELATION  OF  MISSIONARIES  TO  EUROPEANS 
IN  INDIA. 

Referred  to  on  page  49. 

The  relation  of  missionaries  to  other  foreigners  in 
India  may  appear  to  some  a matter  of  little  moment ; 
but  only  to  those  who  have  not  duly  considered  the 
duties,  which  grow  out  of  circumstances  materially 
different  from  those  in  which  they  have  themselves 
been  placed.  Certain  it  is,  that  the  Apostles  adapted 
their  conduct  to  the  different  classes  of  people 
amongst  whom  they  fulfilled  their  ministry. 

Viewed  with  reference  to  our  future  usefulness, 
we  regarded  it  as  kindly  ordered,  that  we  should 
meet  with  no  embarrassment  as  missionaries  from  our 
social  position  ; but  on  the  contrary,  that  all  our  way 
should  be  marked  with  the  favor  of  those  who  were 
able  greatly  to  hinder  or  to  advance  our  object.  This, 
though  not  more  than  we  were  entitled  to  expect 
from  our  standing  at  home,  as  clergymen,  was  per- 
haps unusual  in  North  India;  and  at  any  rate  it  was 
one  of  those  things  in  which  we  thankfully  acknow- 
ledged the  favor  of  God,  in  prospering  our  way. 
In  regard  to  this  subject,  it  has  seemed  to  me  desir- 
able, that  our  missionaries  among  the  Hindus  should 


274 


APPENDIX. 


be  known,  in  some  sense,  as  a separate  caste. 
They  go  to  India  as  Missionaries, — neither  as 
Churchmen  nor  as  Dissenters,  as  those  terms  are 
technically  used  among  English  people ; though 
certainly  Churchmen  as  members  of  the  Church  of 
Christ.  Viewed  socially,  they  should  by  no  means 
be  regarded  as  out  of  society,  having  the  same  social 
position  with  other  clergymen  in  their  own  country  ; 
and  yet  they  should  not  be  expected  to  comply  with 
all  the  usages  observed  among  Europeans  in  India.  If 
they  may  be  regarded  as  a separate  people,  respect- 
able for  talents,  well  educated,  intelligent,  and  devoted 
to  the  single  object  of  converting  the  Hindus  to 
Christ,  then  will  they  enjoy,  I doubt  not,  the  confi- 
dence and  the  co-operation  of  other  foreigners  in 
that  countiy,  to  every  needful  extent. 

It  is  not  only  in  social  intercourse,  however,  that 
the  position  of  missionaries  should  be  considered. 
They  have  duties  to  perform,  as  for  the  time  subjects 
of  the  government  whose  protection-  they  enjoy. 
On  this  point  I shall  quote  a part  of  the  Instructions 
of  the  Executive  Committee,  addressed  to  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Freeman,  Scott,  and  Warren,  in  1838,  as 
exhibiting  the  principles  recognised  by  the  Board. 

“ You  will  bear  in  mind,  dear  brethren,  that  you 
go  to  build  up  a kingdom  that  is  not  of  this  world. 
With  the  civil  government  of  India,  and  all  the  secu- 
lar matters  that  may  agitate  any  portion  of  its  com- 
munity, as  missionaries  of  the  cross,  you  have  nothing 
to  do.  As  you  will  receive  the  protection  of  the 
laws,  yield  to  the  government  a,  cheerful  and  peace- 


ATPENDIX. 


275 


ful  submission,  and  where  it  is  required  a cordial 
support.  It  may  be  that  in  the  laws  and  regulations 
of  the  British  authorities  in  India,  and  in  their 
administration,  some  things  may  appear  strange  to 
you,  and  some  things  objectionable  and  wrong.  But 
there  are  several  considerations  worthy  of  regard 
here.  First,  you  may  not  for  a long  time  be  com- 
petent judges  of  these  matters.  The  condition  of 
the  United  States  and  that  of  India  are  at  this  time 
very  different.  The  degree  of  liberty,  and  the  laws 
and  usages  to  which  you  have  been  accustomed, 
may  be  very  unsuitable  for  India ; and  yet,  having 
enjoyed,  as  your  birthright,  all  the  privileges  of  your 
own  country,  it  would  not  be  strange  if  you  deemed 
them  the  best  for  every  other  people.  Again,  the 
legislation  and  the  administration  of  the  government 
of  India  are  in  the  hands  of  able  and  enlightened 
men.  Some  of  the  first  of  British  statesmen  have 
been  engaged  in  this  service;  among  them  are 
many  who  fear  God,  and  who  have  devoted  much  of 
their  time,  and  thought,  and  property,  to  advance 
the  best  interests  of  the  people ; and  you  may  safely 
leave  to  them  what  so  properly  belongs  to  them, 
without  anxiety  as  to  the  result. — Finally,  let  us 
suppose,  what  is  no  doubt  the  case,  that  some  of  the 
laws  and  usages  are  wrong,  and  ought  to  be  corrected. 
What  other  country  is  free  from  the  same  charge  ? 
Certainly  not  our  own,  notwithstanding  the  blessings 
and  privileges  we  enjoy.  Evils  often  do  exist  in 
governments,  requiring  both  time  and  the  exercise 
of  great  wisdom  for  their  correction,  without  pro- 


276 


APPENDIX. 


ducing  greater  evils.  Leave  all  these  matters,  there- 
fore, as- not  belonging  to  you;  it  is  not  to  interfere 
with  them  that  you  are  sent  to  India,  but  to  preach 
the  gospel  to  the  heathen  there,  and  to  persuade 
them  to  be  reconciled  to  God.  It  is  the  earnest 
desire  of  the  Board  that  the  Presbyterian  Mission- 
aries in  India  may  establish  such  a character  as  will 
insure  to  them  not  only  protection,  but  also  the  con- 
fidence and  esteem  of  those  intrusted  with  the 
government.  Let  all  your  teaching,  all  your  inter- 
course with  the  natives,  all  your  schools,  and  every 
thing  you  print,  be  open  at  all  times  to  the  inspec- 
tion of  the  civil  officers ; let  it  be  seen  that  you 
attend  only  to  your  appropriate  work,  and  soon  you 
will  convince  all  that  you  are  indeed  the  missionaries 
of  the  Prince  of  Peace.  These  things  are  not 
written  in  distrust  of  you,  or  of  the  brethren  in  India, 
nor  with  any  reference  to  the  past  history  of  that 
mission, — which,  we  are  happy  to  acknowledge,  has 
received  the  full  protection,  and  shared  largely  in 
the  kind  and  generous  feelings  of  the  Europeans 
who  administer  the  authority  of  that  country ; but 
we  have  noticed  them  as  being  of  themselves  impor- 
tant, and  that  there  may  be  no  mistake  as  to  the 
principles  by  which  we  are  governed.” 


THE  END. 


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